Ivydene Gardens Colour Wheel - Foliage Gallery: Introduction |
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Dark Tone or Shades (Colours mixed with Black) is the outer circle of colours.
These 12 colour spokes of
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Site design and content copyright ©August 2009. Menus amended July 2015. Chris Garnons-Williams. DISCLAIMER: Links to external sites are provided as a courtesy to visitors. Ivydene Horticultural Services are not responsible for the breakage of the link to the Safety Regulations for man walking with Red Flag before Automobile. |
This is a photo of a Ryegrass plant, that was growing in Type I MOT Roadstone on flat ground in a private garden. You will note that it has a great deal of fibrous root - apparently in American Baseball Stadiums each grass plant has over 100 miles of root.
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. That root in cooperation with worms, bacteria etc takes in food, which is brought down from the surface by water (usually rain, but can be by irrigation) either in tunnels created by the worms, moles, etc or when the ground cracks open in the summer when the clay soil dries up and shrinks - clay soil can absorb 40% of its own volume before it turns from a solid to a liquid. That root also breathes in oxygen then expels carbon dioxide (Click on Carbon Cycle) and nitrogen (Click on Nitrogen Cycle) ALL THE TIME. If you buy Sharp-Washed-Sand from a Builder's Merchant and put that into a clean pot round a plant, then using NPK fertilisers the roots of that plant can absorb that food dissolved in water. Once you stop supplying that water and food, that plant will die (it is like saying that for you to survive, that you need a lb of glucose each day, so I sit you down outside and put 365 lbs of glucose round your feet. It rains and within 6 weeks that glucose has either been eaten by you or dissolved in the rain and washed down into the ground below your feet. Then you complain to me that you are hungry). To make that Sharp-Washed-Sand into soil, you need dead plant material, shit from animals or dead animals, bacteria, worms that can be eaten by the animal, bacteria and worms to bind those sand particles together with clay and organic matter (Click on Soil Structure). That soil can then hold onto the some of the rain (Click on How does Water act in the Soil) with food for the animal/plant in it, before the excess rain drains through below the top soil to the sub-soil and the food in it is then lost to the plants above it. The easiest method of supplying the dead plant material is to collect your potato peelings, tea bags, coffee grounds in a bucket under the sink before putting them on the ground surface round a plant. Then, mow the lawn and put 1cm or 0.5 inch depth of grass mowings on top to complete the organic mulch, provide water from the grass and nitrogen from it to compost the peelings below. The worms having made tunnels in the soil may also eat the peelings. When it rains the water can absorb nutrients from that mulch and take it down using those tunnels. WHEN THOSE TUNNELS ARE FULL OF WATER AND A CLOD-HOPPING HUMAN WALKS ON IT, THEN IT COLLAPSES AND NO LONGER FUNCTIONS. If it rains heavily, allow the ground to recover for a couple of days before walking on it. You can then see that a Sandy Soil is much easier for the roots of a plant to get into, but when it rains it dries up quickly and then the food in it gets washed through it very quickly (Click on How are Chemicals stored and released from Soil?). It is also easier for the gases to get in and out. A clay soil is more difficult for plants, since when it rains the tunnels fill up with water and thus could drown the roots. Put sand round its roots up to the surface of the soil and this will combine with the clay to stop the roots from being drowned or without Nitrogen and Carbon gas exchange. If your lawn is soggy when it rains, then cut the lawn short when it is dry and apply 25Kg of sand over a 5 metre x 5 metre area once a month for 3 months during May-September and it will change the soil structure to lessen that. A mixture of Clay and Soil is best (Click on Soil Formation - What is Soil Texture?).
I saw a yew tree that had been planted in a churchyard in 2000 as a 2 foot high tree. In 2009 it had reached 7 feet high and 3 feet across. Why had it not grown? It was planted on a 30 degree slope in clay/sand soil with grass growing round its base. It had the following 3 reasons for failure to grow:-
So, I carefully removed the grass and its roots from around its base out to the tips of the tree branches and mulched that bare ground with shrub prunings / grass mowings to a 4 inch depth. A year later it was growing quite well with new leaves and an increase of density of branches. In Maderia I saw a mature olive tree - which had been transplanted from the nursery to a roof garden - a year after it was planted. It was on a mound with brazilian grass growing round its base. It was dying from dehydration even though it was irrigated every other day - the grass was growing well. An organic mulch about 4 inches deep on weeded soil makes garden maintenance very easy. Once a week you walk round the garden and using a swoe (a hoe has 2 arms to the horizontal blade, a swoe only has 1 so that you can stand on the lawn and be able to hoe behind the plant in front of you) hoe through the weed root in the top of the mulch and remove the uprooted weed. I find that Spent Mushroom Compost is light, easy to lay, easy to hoe and lasts a relatively long time. You may lose about 50% each year. If you do not apply any mulch and you do have groundcover plants covering all the soil, then you will enjoy permanent weeding chores like the painters on the Forth Bridge last century - you come to the other side and have to start again immediately. When you prune your shrubs/trees/hedges then put the prunings on your uncut lawn. When you deadhead your bulbs or remove perennials, shake off the earth from the roots and place on the uncut lawn. Using a rotary mower cut your lawn and it will cut the grass and your prunings/perennials into small bits which you then mulch your flower beds/hedges with. In the autumn, set your mower to its highest cut and transfer the autumn fallen leaves onto the lawn before mowing them and mulching as before. Continue mowing once a week untill all fallen leaves have been removed. If your garden is on a steep slope - I maintained one that had half-circle beds with lawn paths round them - the diameter of the circle was usually level and the half-circumference went down the slope. The ground had flint and chalk in it and the plants in it were usually the inverted cone shape. When it rained, the stones would be washed off onto the lawn paths and damage my mowing machine. Providing any mulch applied to those beds is covered with grass mowings, then that problem - of the stones being washed off by any rain however hard onto the paths - is stopped. Roots of plants that you put into your garden do extend and grow, but the existing roots do not move by themselves to better places. You have to untangle them and spread them out yourself. I planted a blue cedar in my front garden and 9 years later it died. When I took it out, I found that the roots which had been going round the inside of the pot before I planted it had expanded sideways to fill the complete space between them as if they were still in the pot. There were very few roots which had grown away from this rootball and so the plant died due to dehydration, lack of food and lack of gas exchange in the ground. A minor point that people forget is that you only live because you can breath oxygen, and plants provide it. So please look after the plant so that they have food, water and air (best soil has at least 30% air in it) on a regular basis, just like you do for your children. . |
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Crocus pulchellus 'Inspiration' |
I have split the Colour Wheel below into the following 48 colours plus the 4 Neutral colours (I have added the web-safe colour name to the Colour Wheel Name as detailed in colourcodes):-
All the plants who have flowers in this website will have their Common Name, Botanical Name (click to see its Page Description) and Months of Flowering (Click to see it compared with others in another Page) in one of the above flower petal colour index pages. The Common Name will be in Red if it is a Wildflower, The Botanical Name will link to its Plant Description Page and each Flower Month will link to the respective Flower Colour Comparison Page in the relevant Gallery. The overall effect of the petals of the flowers has been used to classify them from the photos used in the website. Thus, although some white flower petals have other colours with them, the general effect may be white and therefore they are put in the Neutral: Pure White 2 Page under Multi-Coloured. If the Flower Petal of the photo in the Cultivated Plant Description Page is Multi-Coloured, then it will be placed in the Multi-Coloured Row of a Colour Wheel of Flower Petal Colour Index Page that appears to have the majority space of that colour on that petal. If the Wildflower does not have its Plant Decription Page yet, then the Botanical Name and Flower Month will link to its Family Page. |
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Primary Colours:- Red.
Secondary Colours:- Orange.
Tertiary Colours:- Red Orange. |
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The following photos show that nature can create conditions in and on a bed of Type I Roadstone - laid on a geotextile to prevent the soil under it from mixing with it - to support plants and then grow grass. This is the same garden as the one showing the roots of a Ryegrass plant above. The Roadstone had been laid to create a more level garden and then only used with a normal washing line to dry washing. The weeds were growing quite tall in the area where the dead leaves from the Leylandii Hedge growing alongside the boundary fence in the next door garden were depositing themselves. In order to reduce the length of time maintaining this garden, reduce the height of growing vegetation and since some grass had already started to grow, it was decided to sow grass seed and then let nature take its course without an irrigation system.
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So the first area was cleared, cheap grass seed sown and some sand was scattered over the seed to level the surface, prevent the birds from eating the seed and produce an easier area for the grass roots.
The juvenile grass appeared after a couple of weeks. The weeds grow in the roadstone covering this garden and have been used as a mulch on the raised bed on the left. A self-sown seedling of an oak tree has been growing in this raised bed and its only maintenance consists of providing a mulch of the weeds removed from this garden round its base. Since this minimal maintenance program was started, the sapling has grown 4 feet in 2 years. The paver in the middle covers the hole for the supporting tube of the washing line. |
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These show the new grass growing in the roadstone with sand on top and in the roadstone without sand on the top. |
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. So, if you want a new drive that will provide you with:-
then remember to use a geotextile under 4 inch depth (10cms) for sand or chalk soil or 8 inch depth for clay soil (Click on Case 3 which details the foundation depth required) to prevent the soil and stone mixing and the roots of trees or shrubs from growing in it. Then, sow your grass seed before blinding it with a thin layer of sharp-washed sand to level it and stop the birds from eating that seed. Then, from March to December mow it after each 3 week period to 1 inch (2.5cms) height to keep it low.
According to the Civil Service Motoring Association Magazine of September 2012, "there are 7,000,000 UK gardens that have been paved over to make space for parking, says the RAC Foundation. The increase in vehicle numbers, and limit on public parking spaces, means that, of the 80 per cent of dwellings built with a front garden, two-thirds are now paved over for cars." Most of the current population in the UK breathe, and that means that most of the current population do not have the 25 x 25 feet of lawn necessary for that lawn to produce their required Oxygen for the year for them to breathe as well as the incredible amount of oxygen used by car engines. This means that the human population is currently asphyxiating itself, instead of growing grass to park their cars on. |
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Site Map for Foliage Petal Colour being nearest to Colour in this Colour Wheel Page Introduction explains the 54 links to the 54 colour pages in the Foliage Colour Wheel links map below |
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There are other pages on Plants which bloom in each month of the year in this website:-
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THE 2 EUREKA EFFECT PAGES FOR UNDERSTANDING SOIL AND HOW PLANTS INTERACT WITH IT OUT OF 15,000:-
or
when I do not have my own or ones from mail-order nursery photos , then from March 2016, if you want to start from the uppermost design levels through to your choice of cultivated and wildflower plants to change your Plant Selection Process then use the following galleries:-
I hope that you find that the information in this website is useful to you:- I like reading and that is shown by the index in my Library, where I provide lists of books to take you between designing, maintaining or building a garden and the hierarchy of books on plants taking you from
There are these systems for choosing plants as shown in
82 rock garden plants (with photos) suitable for small garden areas; split into:-
I am taking photos of rock garden plants suitable for small gardens and if they do not have their own Plant Description Page in this website, then each photo of each plant will be located at the bottom of the relevant 1 of 52 Rockgarden Flower Colour Wheel pages. Usually a link in *** to that page of 35 will be included in the Name field of the respective Index Page, for:-
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Since the majority of the Wildflowers detailed in this website are available in either seed or plug-plant form, why do you not mix them with the cultivated plants in your garden? There are 2157 (
in this Gallery. |
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All Foliage 53 Gallery now uses the 53 colours in the Colour Wheel 1 below. This is a duplication of the colour wheel used in All Flowers 53 gallery. On 22 January 2021, this gallery contains the flowers of the cultivated and UK wildflower plants detailed in row 3 above. These will be moved to the correct foliage colour comparison page in this gallery with a foliage image instead of a flower image. Colour Wheel 1
Colour Wheel 3 |
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There are these systems for choosing plants as shown in
82 rock garden plants (with photos) suitable for small garden areas; split into:-
I am taking photos of rock garden plants suitable for small gardens and if they do not have their own Plant Description Page in this website, then each photo of each plant will be located at the bottom of the relevant 1 of 52 Rockgarden Flower Colour Wheel pages. Usually a link in *** to that page of 35 will be included in the Name field of the respective Index Page, for:-
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Oxygen to breathe?
Rainwater Drainage? in
Solution to |
The following Container Gardening for Wildlife is from Appendix 1 of The Wildlife Garden Month-by-Month by Jackie Bennett. Published by David & Charles in 1993. ISBN
"It is quite possible to entice wildlife into even the most unpromising paved areas by utilising containers. Several mini-habitats can be created by growing a carefully selected range of trees, shrubs and flowers in pots, tubs, window boxes and hanging baskets. |
DON'T FORGET HERBS Herbs are amongst the most useful wildlife plants, including borage, mint, chives and rosemary, and are ideally suited to container growing. Do allow them to flower though, even at the expense of a continuous supply of leaves for cooking.
FOUR-SEASON WINDOW BOX Try planting a window box with the following selection of evergreens, perennials, bulbs and bedding plants, for an all-the-year-round display. WINTER SPRING SUMMER AUTUMN
APPENDIX 2 has a Traditional Wildlife Garden Plan and a Garden Plan for Urban Wildlife. |
STEP-BY-STEP CONTAINER PLANTING Make sure the container has adequate drainage holes and that they are free of obstruction. Put a layer of broken clay pots or crockery over the base of the container. Half-fill with a multi-purpose potting compost. Place the plants in position and fill around the root ball with more compost. Press down firmly. Water well and add more compost if necessary, to bring the level up to 1 inch (2.5 cm) below the rim of the container. Use the self-watering containers and potting mix detailed in the Vegetable Gallery Site Map Page rather the the pots or multi-purpose potting compost detailed above. Provide an outside water tap and watering can, so that you can irrigate the pots without traipsing the can through the house.
NOTE |
RECOMMENDED PLANTS TREES Willow (Salix caprea 'Pendula') Weeping form (120 inches (300 cms)). Catkins for insects, young leaves for caterpillars. SHRUBS Cotoneaster 'Hybridus Pendulus' (120 inches (300 cms)) Berries and flowers. Hawthorn (Craaegus monogyna) (180 inches (500 cms)) can be pruned hard to keep it within bounds. Secure nesting sites for birds. Berries and flowers. Holly (Ilex aquifolium) (to 180 inches (500 cms)) a male and female bush are needed to be sure of berries. Nesting cover for birds. Lavender (Lavendula angustifolia) Scented and attracts bees, flowers. ---> |
CLIMBERS Ivy (Hedera helix) All-year-round wall and fence cover. Has nectar and flowers. FLOWERS FOR NECTAR
PLAN OF A SMALL ENCLOSED PATIO WITH CONTAINERS |
The following Growing Marsh Plants in Containers is from The Wildlife Garden Month-by-Month by Jackie Bennett. Published by David & Charles in 1993. ISBN Where space is limited, or simply as an alternative to conventional patio plants, it is possible to grow moisture-loving species in pots and tubs. The container needs to retain water - a terracotta pot which has a porouus structure would not be suitable, but a glazed ceramic pot would work well. Plastic pots can also be used - like the self-watering containers detailed in the Vegetable Gallery Site Map Page. Choose a pot at least 12 (30) deep and 16 (40) across. The best way to ensure the compost stays wet is to stand the whole pot in a substantial tray of water, so that the marsh can draw up moisture as it is needed (there is a water reservoir in the self-watering pots detailed above). Ordinary plant saucers will not hold enough water, and something deeper like a large kitchen roasting tin, which may not look so elegant, will do the job more effectively. |
MOISTURE-LOVING NATIVE PLANTS |
Height
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Flower Colour |
Flowering Time |
Bog Bean (Menyanthes trifoliata) / |
10 (25) |
White |
Mid-Summer |
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Globe Flower |
24 (60) |
Yellow |
Early Summer |
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Oxlip |
6 (15) |
Pale Yellow |
Late spring |
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Primrose |
4 (10) |
Pale Yellow |
Mid-spring |
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Purple Loosestrife |
36 (90) |
Pink-purple |
Summer |
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Ragged Robin |
24 (60) |
Pink |
Summer |
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Sweet Flag |
24 (60) |
Green |
Mid-summer |
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Bog Arum Naturalised in places in Britain |
6 (15) |
Yellow-green |
Summer |
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Hemp Agrimony |
48 (120) |
Reddish-pink |
Late summer |
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Lady's Smock |
9 (23) |
Pale pink |
Spring |
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Marsh Betony |
12 (30) |
Purple |
Summer |
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Marsh Cinquefoil |
9 (23) |
Dark red |
Summer |
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Marsh St John's Wort |
6 (15) |
Pale yellow |
Summer |
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Meadowsweet |
36 (90) |
Creamy-white |
Summer |
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The following Planning a Herb Bed or Garden is from The Wildlife Garden Month-by-Month by Jackie Bennett. Published by David & Charles in 1993. ISBN TOP HERBS FOR WILDLIFE PREPARING THE SITE If the soil is not ideal (heavy clay for instance), it is possible to add some coarse grit to aid drainage. However, it might be smpler and more productive to grow the herbs in pots - like the self-watering containers detailed in the Vegetable Gallery Site Map Page, putting in a good layer of gravel before adding the compost. The ground should be dug thoroughly, removing any weeds ---> |
and large stones. Lay brick paths, edging tiles or wooden dividers before planting the herbs. HERBS FOR LESS-THAN-IDEAL CONDITIONS Mint (Mentha) can tolerate shade although it does tend to grow towards the light and become crooked and leggy. Tansy (Tanecetum vulgare) is an excellent native plant for butterflies and it is not too fussy about growing conditions. Lovage (Levisticum officinale), a relative of the fennel, is also worth growing for its young leaves which add a celery flavour to soups and stews. It will grow quite adequately in a dark, damp spot and the flowers produced, although not as abundant as they should be, will provide nectar for hoverflies, wasps and bees. Comfrey (Symphytum x uplandicum) should be included purely for its leaves which are a reliable food source for moth and butterfly caterpillars. Lemon balm (Melissa officinalis) is another strong grower in less than ideal conditions. Its white or pale yellow flowers rely on bees for their pollination. ---> |
Garden chervil (Anthriscus cerefolium) is an annual herb, greatly prized for the flavour of its parsley-like leaves. It will tolerate some shade, but prefers a well-drained soil. Great burnet (Sanguisorba officinalis) is a tall native herb that prefers a damp habitat and a heavy clay soil. The tiny crimson flowers appear from mid-summer to early autumn. Angelica (Angelica archangelica), originally from central Europe, is widely naturalised in Britain. It will do well in a shady spot in damp soil and has huge seedheads in early autumn. PLANTING AND MAINTENANCE CALENDAR Autumn - Plant shrubs and pot-grown perennials Spring - Sow seeds of annuals Late Spring - Sow seeds of biennials Summer - Keep beds free of weeds; water container plants. Adas Colour Atlas of Weed Seedlings by J.B Williams and J.R. Morrison provides photos to the 40 most common weeds afflicting gardens and arable farm land. ISBN 0-7234-0929-3 Instead of snipping off the flowers as they appear, leave a few plants of parsley, mint, marjoram and lemon balm to flower naturally. Many more insects will visit the plants and consequently the herb garden will be a richer feeding ground for birds. |
TOP HERBS FOR WILDLIFE Borage (borago officinalis) Chives (Allium schoenoprasum) Comfrey (Symphytum uplandicum) Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare0 Hyssop (Hyssopus officinalis) Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) Marjoram (Origanum vulgare) Mint (Mentha - all types) Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) Thyme (Thymus - all types) |
The following Recommended Bulbs is from The Wildlife Garden Month-by-Month by Jackie Bennett. Published by David & Charles in 1993. ISBN RECOMMENDED BULBS Crocus (Purple) (Crocus tomasinianus) Crocus (Yellow) (Crocus chrysanthus) Grape Hyacinth (Muscari neglectum) Ramsons Garlic (Allium ursinum) Snowdrop (Galanthus nivalis) Wild Daffodil (Narcissus pseudonarcissus) Winter Aconite (Eranthis hyemalis) |
The following Incorporating Wildfflowers into an existing lawn is from The Wildlife Garden Month-by-Month by Jackie Bennett. Published by David & Charles in 1993. ISBN INCORPORATING WILDFLOWERS INTO AN EXISTING LAWN SOWING WILDFLOWER SEED INTO AN EXISTING LAWN ADDING POT-GROWN WILDFLOWERS TO AN EXISTING LAWN |
TYPICAL MEADOW MIXTURE SPRING-FLOWERING MEADOW PERENNIALS SUMMER-FLOWERING MEADOW PERENNIALS
Lindum Turf sell wildflower Mats for your new wildflower lawn instead of part of your old lawn as or |
The following Establishing a 'No Go' Area is from The Wildlife Garden Month-by-Month by Jackie Bennett. Published by David & Charles in 1993. ISBN It is important to nominate a part of the garden as a 'no-go' area for humans, which can be left deliberately untidy. Usually this is some spot well away from the house and preferably shielded by shrubs or trees, but it might equally be behind a garden shed or garage.
THE WOODPILE The first wildlife to inhabit the pile will probably be fungi in the early autumn, but in time it will become home to spiders, beetles, wood wasps, solitary bees, slugs and snails. These will then attract bird predators, particularly wrens and blackbirds, who will pick over the pile in search of a meal. The insects will also provide food for wood mice, voles and hedgehogs. First-year newts, after leaving the pond, may well spend large amounts of time in the damp shelter of a log pile. ----> |
GROWING NETTLES FOR BUTTERFLIES As the emerging caterpillars prefer fresh, new leaves to feed on, it is a good idea to cut back half the patch in early or mid-summer to encourage new growth. This is particularly important for commas and small tortoiseshells who regularly have 2 broods a year - the first in the spring, the second in mid-summer. The adults will seek out the new shoots to lay their eggs. Nettles can be introduced into the garden if they are not growing naturally. In late winter, dig up some roots about 4 (10) long which are bearing yound shoots. Bury the roots in pots of garden soil and keep cutting back the shoots to 3 (7.5). By late spring the new plants can be put out into the untidy area. The life-cycle of many butterflies extends over much of the year, so if you can put the plants that are used in its 4 stages in that untidy area, then it is more likely that you will see the butterfly, since YOU WILL NEVER BE TIDYING UP THAT NO-GO AREA. ----> |
LEAF PILES AND HEDGEHOG HABITATS Use an upturned wooden box (untreated wood) and cut an entrance out of one of the side panels, 4-5 (10-12) square. This is large enough to allow the hedgehog to enter but small enough to prevent dogs or foxes getting in. A covered entrance tunnel can also be constructed using 2 rows of house bricks stood on their sides and a plank of wood. This helps to keep the interior of the box dry, but is not essential. Cover the box with a sheet of polythene to keep out the rain, and a mound of dry leaves or brushwood to disguise the exterior. Add a handful of straw or dry leaves as bedding. HABITAT BOOSTERS |
The following Planting in Gravel and Paving is from The Wildlife Garden Month-by-Month by Jackie Bennett. Published by David & Charles in 1993. ISBN Many plants enjoy the dry growing conditions and refected warmth of gravel, stone chippings or paving. It is relatively easy to incorporate native species into existing paving schemes or to lay areas of gravel. MAKING A GRAVEL BED Cover the area with a layer of sand 1 (2.5) deep. Finish the bed with a 1 (2.5) layer of gravel or 0.25 (0.5) stone chippings. Water plants well before removing them from their pots. Use a narrow trowel to make holes the same size as the root ball and firm them in gently. Water new plants thoroughly and sprinkle more gravel over the surface if necessary |
PLANTING IN PAVING The simplest way is to take up some of the stones, perhaps create a chequeboard effect. This is better done in a random pattern, rather than taking out every other stone. The earth beneath the stones shuld be workable and weed-free. Dig out the earth to a depth of 6-9 (15-23) and mix with an equal quantity of gravel or stone chippings. Replace the soil mixture and plant in the normal way. Brick paths or patios can be planted in the same way. Take out any bricks that are already damaged or crumbling and fill the gaps as above. |
PLANTS FOR PAVING AND GRAVEL Broom Common Toadflax Globe Thistle Great Mullein Hawkweed Lady's Bedstraw Maiden Pink Thyme Trailing St John's Wort White Campion Yarrow |
The following Constructing a Rock Bank is from The Wildlife Garden Month-by-Month by Jackie Bennett. Published by David & Charles in 1993. ISBN If the garden has no manmade rock garden or natural outcrops of rock for planting, it is possible to make a rock bank to provide a useful wildlife habitat. This is a simple construction and far less costly than a full-scale rock garden. Stack the stones randomly to form a double-sided wall to the desired height and length. Between each layer of stones, add a mixture of stone chippings or gravel and loam potting compost (this makes a good growing medium for rock plants, but if not available any poor, stony garden soil can be substituted). There are better soil mixtures detailed for many rock garden plants in Colour Wheel Rock Gallery. Leave some gaps between the stones without any soil, to allow access to the interior for small mammals and creatures. Lay more stones or rocks across the top of the structure to form a 'lid'. The planting pockets can be planted with any of the rock or wall plants listed in the next column and the column below it. |
RECOMMENDED PLANTS FOR ROCK BANKS AND GARDENS Common Pink Hairy Thyme Harebell Hebe 'Autumn Glory' Hebe 'Carl Teschner' Herb Robert Ling (Heather) Purple Saxifrage Rock Rose Spring Gentian |
The following Planting a Native Hedge is from The Wildlife Garden Month-by-Month by Jackie Bennett. Published by David & Charles in 1993. ISBN Different types of hedges were planted for different purposes: a double hedge would mark an important boundary whilst a hedge designed to contain livestock would be particularly impenetrable at the base. Almost incidentally they became shelters and pathways for wildlife, harbouring birds, mammals and insects. In the garden, a hedge of native species can serve both as a wildlife provider and as an effective division between neighbouring plots. CHOOSING THE SPECIES |
TREES/SHRUBS SUITABLE FOR HEDGING Alder Buckthorn Beech Blackthorn Crab Apple Dog Rose Elm Field Maple Hawthorn Hazel Holly Wild Privet Yew |
HOW TO PLANT A HEDGE Choose two-year-old seedlings, which are large enough to handle, but should not need staking. Mark out the length of the hedge with canes and string. It does not have to be a straight line, a curving hedge works just as well. Dig a trench in front of the line, 24 (60) wide and 18 (45) deep, running the entire length of the proposed hedge. Remove weed roots and large stones whilst digging. Add a layer of organic matter (garden compost or well-rotted manure) and mix with the loose soil at the bottom of the trench. Set the plants, 12-18 (30-45) apart and at the same depth as they were in the nursery (shown by the soil mark on the stem), adding more soil to the bottom of the trench, if necessary, to ensure the plant will sit at the right depth. Holding the plant upright, fill around the roots with loose soil, until it reaches the soil mark, firming it down well. IMMEDIATE AFTERCARE Water the new plants thoroughly, making sure the water soaks down around the roots. Cut back the top and side growths by at least one third - this will encourage side branching and bushy growth. |
WILDLIFE USES FOR HEDGING Caterpillars of brimstone butterflies feed on alder buckthorn. Blackthorn, hawthorn, hazel and privet provide nectar for many species of butterfly. Thrushes, dunnocks, garden warblers and finches use the hedgerow for nesting Hedgehogs, voles and woodmice shelter and feed in the hedge bottom. Hawthorn, blackthorn and holly provide berries for birds in winter
"THE LIFE AND DEATH OF A FLAILED CORNISH HEDGE - This details that life and death from July 1972 to 2019, with the following result:- |
FLOWERING WALL PLANTS Hoary Cinquefoil Houseleek Ivy-leaved Toadflax London Pride Red Valerian Round-leaved Cranesbill Stonecrops Wallflower Wall Rocket Arabis Yellow Corydalis |
The following Planting a Native Hedge is from The Wildlife Garden Month-by-Month by Jackie Bennett. Published by David & Charles in 1993. ISBN MAINTENANCE Each spring, whilst the hedge is still forming, prune the top and side shoots by one third. Do not leave the central stem to grow to the desired height of the hedge before cutting back. Regular pruning will ensure that by the time the hedge does reach its final height, it will have developed a strong, dense framework It is a good idea to apply a mulch of garden compost, leaf mould or chopped bark around the plants each spring (if you have trees growing besides the public road on its verge, then in the autumn when its leaves fall to the ground below, you can use your rotary mower to mow them up and put them as a mulch in the the hedge bottom.). This will discourage weeds (which may strangle the young hedge) and form a good environment for hedgerow plants and microscopic creatures. Adas Colour Atlas of Weed Seedlings by J.B Williams and J.R. Morrison provides photos to the 40 most common weeds afflicting gardens and arable farm land. ISBN 0-7234-0929-3 |
CLIPPING The main difference between conventional hedge care and those managed for wildlife is in the clipping. Wildlife hedges should never be clipped before nesting is completely finished; usually it is safe to do so in late summer or early autumn, but in doubt, leave until the winter. WILDLIFE TO EXPECT Blackbirds, thrushes, dunnocks, sparrows, greenfinches and bullfinches all prefer the dense, protected growth of a hedge to any other nesting site. They will be joined in the summer, by shy, ground-feeding wrens, who search the leaf litter beneath the hedge for spiders and other insects. Many other garden birds like tits and robins will use the hedge simply as a convenient perch, for picking off caterpillars from the leafy growth. The hedge foliage is a particularly good breeding ground for moths such as the privet hawkmoth, garden spiders who leave their mark in the shape of finely woven webs and the often heard, but rarely seen, bush cricket. At ground level, the wildlife residents are most likely to be hedgehogs, wood mice and bank voles, although toads and frogs often hide in the shelter of a hedge bottom. In time a native hedge will become a busy wildlife corridor offering shelter, food and a convenient route from one part of the garden to another |
HEDGEROW FLOWERS Although the soil at the base of the hedge may be poor, a surprising number of wildflowers seem to thrive here. The orientation of the hedge will determine which flowers may be grown. South-facing hedges receive a good deal of sun whilst north faces may be in almost complete shade. Choose a selection of plants to suit the position of your hedge. |
RECOMMENDED NATIVE HEDGEROW FLOWERS Plant - Betony (Stachys officinalis) Bluebell Common Dog Violet Garlic Mustard Greater Stitchwort Hedge Wounwort Hedgerow Cranesbill Lesser Celandine |
Primrose Red Campion Selfheal Sweet Cicely White Deadnettle |