Ivydene Gardens Photos of Rock Garden Plants Suitable for Small Gardens:
Site Map for Rock Garden Plants who do not have Plant Description Pages in this Website

Click on 1 of 48 Colours or 4 colours of Black in
Rock Plant Colour Wheel - Flowers Link Map

in any page in this gallery to get that Colour Page.

I am taking photos of rock garden plants suitable for small gardens and if they do not have their own Plant Description Page in this website, then each photo of each plant will be located at the bottom of the relevant 1 of 52 Rockgarden Flower Colour Wheel pages. Usually a link in *** to that page will be included in the Name field of the respective Index Page.

If there is more than 1 photo for that plant that I wish to display then, this Gallery will have photos of that plant in its page.
This will be linked to from the respective Rock Garden Flower Colour Wheel Page and you can return to that Page by clicking on "Return to Rock Garden Colour Wheel Page" next to its text description for each photo
or
use the Rock Garden Colour Wheel on the right to link to that Colour or 1 of the others.
You could also get to its text row in the relevant Rock Plant Index page using the first letter of its name as the Index Page name to click.

 

There are 35 plants in this Gallery:-

  • 15 BULBS, CORMS and TUBERS
  • 4 EVERGREEN SUBSHRUBS
  • 7 EVERGREEN PERENNIALS
  • 2 EVERGREEN SHRUBS
  • 7 HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS

 

The Site Map which links to all the
"Rock Garden Plants who do not have Plant Description Pages in this website"
is at the end of the Menu Table on the right of every page in this Gallery.

"
Seed Pans

Pans are used in preference to the wooden flats for raising alpine plants from seed and there are 3 reasons for their use:-

  • First of all pans are rot proof, especially as it may be necessary to retain the pans over a period of years.
  • Secondly pans are less liable to attack from woodlice which are attracted to damp wood in which to make a home. They like nothing better than a supply of young seedlings for a meal.
  • Lastly my own opinion is, a more uniform temperature and moisture content of the seed compost so necessary for good germination is obtainable by using the porous pan for the raising of alpine plants from seed.

All pans must be scrupously clean for seed raising and these and all crocking materials are best washed in hot soapy water. Give these a good scrubbing with a pot brush to remove all dirt and stains. After this treatment a plunge into a strong solution of permanganate of potash, to act as a partial steriliser and a deterrent to formation of fungi, lichens, etc. The pans should then be placed on one side to dry, but do not allow them to become too dry, otherwise they will extract all the moisture from the seed compost. Wet pans must not be used for they will cause the soil to adhere to the sides. Thus when attempting to remove the seedlings it will be found that both the soil and roots of the seedlings have become attached to the pans and a subsequent loss of seedlings is likely to occur. New pans must not be used straight from the makers, for they will have been kiln fired and therefore need soaking for at least 24 hours before use. Then, these also must be partly dried after the potash of permanganate plunge.

The preparation of the pans for raising plants from seed is simple. At the same time it is necessary to take care, for there is a possibility that they will have to remain in use for a long period. First of all a piece of perforated zinc should be placed over the vent of the pan. This is preferable to crocks which are often used, for the zinc will prevent the entry of undesirable pests such as woodlice, slugs, worms etc., from making a home in the drainage, to say nothing of the damage these will do to the young seedlings. After the piece of zinc, an inch of drainage material is put in. This can be of broken brick, chippings or the residue of Cornish sand after being riddled though a 1/16 inch sieve. On top of this a thin covering of peat roughage or flaked leaf-mould should be placed, just enough to prevent the seed compost from filtering down and blocking up the drainage. Lastly, the compost suited to the seed is used and the pan filled to within 0.5 inches of the top and made firm. It is essential that the soil around the sides of the pan be also firmed, otherwise there will be poor germination in this area. After completion of this firming process evenly over the surface, the seed pans should be placed in a container holding 2 inches (5 cms) of water and left there until the surface of the compost darkens, then the pans should be removed and all surplus water allowed to drain away." from Collector's Alpines by Royton E. Heath published in 1964 by Collingridge Limited.

"
Cuttings
One of the greatest advantages of reproduction of plants by cuttings, is that, unlike seed in which there is a limited period every year to raise plants, they can be propagated by this method at almost any time by taking cuttings of either green, half-ripened or hardwood. With the aid of a little bottom heat to induce rooting, even the winter need not be an out of season period.

No matter what type of material is to be used for cuttings, it must always be borne in mind that on no account must they be taken from flowering shoots. These will not strike, or if they do will rarely grow into first class plants. This is easily understood, for their natural aim is reproduction of the species and as nature's normal method in this matter is the production of seed; then all the available strength is diverted to the buds with this aim in view.

The following are the 5 different kinds of cuttings from which new plants can be raised:-

1 - Green Cuttings
These are taken from the green growing tips of the plants to be propagated. The lower leaves are best removed by a slight upward pull, not downward, which will certainly bring away the outer covering of the stem, thus retarding rooting if not stopping it altogether. A razor blade is used and a cut made just below a node on the stem. This is the part where the leaves are joined to the stem at the base of which new shoots are borne. Roots will form more quickly here than at any other part of the shoot, although there are notable exceptions to the rule. The genera Atragene and Clematis are notable examples, rooting better from inter-nodal cuttings. The cut should be cleanly made, making sure that no bruising occurs, afterwards removing all foliage to 1/3 of its length. Only a small batch of cuttings should be prepared at any one time, for green cuttings quickly flag. This must be avoided as much as possible, so only enough material should be prepared as can be dealt with at once.

These are best rooted in a closed sunny frame if at all possible, but a great deal of watering will be necessary for on no account must the compost be allowed to dry out. Many will root in a matter of days in a frame of this type. If rooted in a part shade frame, which requires less watering, from 1 to 2 weeks will suffice. Naturally everything depends on the season and type of weather experienced at the time the cuttings are taken, but in normal weather conditions May and early June are the best times. If spring is early, the date can be advanced a week or two, or retarded if spring is late or cold. All dates quoted are for the south of England, in the midlands an extra week's growth will be necessary, while in the north and Scotland up to 2 weeks.

2 - Half-ripened Cuttings
These are removed from the plant to be propagated, when the base of the cutting, where it joins the main stem,is mature. The growing tip, although still green, is firm but not hard. The ability to know just when the cutting is ready and firm enough to remove from the parent plant can only be gained with experience. It is recommended that this type of cutting be taken over a period, inserting them in the propagating frame with the date attached to each batch. The time taken for some or all of them to root will give the propagator a general idea of what to look for and he will be able to distinguish between a good or bad cutting. The cutting is ready if when bent it cracks or breaks readily. Most evergreen plants including dwarf shrubs and conifers can be increased by this type of cutting and the use of bottom heat will be beneficial in a number of cases. Not only will this speed up the time taken for the cutting to root, but also it is often the only way in which certain types of plants will root at all. June and July, and possibly the first 2 weeks in August are the normal times in which to take cuttings of this nature.

3 - Hardwood Cuttings
The majority of cuttings which are struck from hardwood or well-ripened wood are from deciduous plants, the growth being mature and firm along the whole length of the stem from which the cutting is to be taken. These are generally taken from the parent plant at the end of October, but this period is only approximate, for it is possible to take this type of cutting right up to the end of the year with good results. The stem to be propagated should be given a quick sharp downward pull so that it comes away with a heel of the old wood attached. The heel is neatly trimmed, taking care not to cut into the core of the old wood. Should there be any foliage still remaining , this must be removed. The prepared cuttings are then put into the cutting frame, close but not touching each other. Here they remain throughout the winter until the following spring, when rooting will commence.

4 - Root Cuttings
It is not a method which is to be advised if other means are available, for the specimen to be used for propagation is certainly spoilt for 2 or 3 years. Examples of plants which can be increased by root cuttings are Morisia monantha, Lewisias and Phlox nana ensifolia.

The plant is carefully removed from its pan and after taking away all drainage material, the roots are gently washed free of soil and then the thong-like roots, not less than the thickness of a pencil, are chosen for propagation. Only 1 or 2 can be taken if the plant is not to suffer unduly and these are cut into pieces 0.75 to 1 inch (2-2.5 cms) in length. Smaller sections should be avoided, as they will not root. The base of the cutting should be cut slightly on the slant so the propagator knows which is the base and which is the top when inserting the cuttings. Reversing the cuttings will almost certainly result in failure. They are not likely to strike unless placed in the rooting medium in the correct position.

The pieces of root are best inserted in pans, the mixture being equal parts of leaf-mould and sharp sand. The top of the root cutting should be just above the surface of the compost. Another inch (2.5cms) of Cornish sand is placed over this and the compost is well watered. The pan is then plunged in a closed frame where fresh growth will soon take place. They should be allowed to grow on steadily for 6 weeks to 2 months keeping the soil just moist. The cuttings can then be treated as rooted cuttings and potted on in the appropriate mixture. April and May are the ideal months for taking this kind of cutting.

5 - Leaf Cuttings
There are a number of alpine plants which can be increased by taking leaf cuttings, and this generally applies to plants which form rosettes from a central rootstock. The family Gesneriaceae contains a number of genera which produce species that are capable of being increased readily by this method, examples being haberleas, ramondas, jankeas etc. The varied species and forms of lewisias can also be relied upon to provide material for leaf cuttings.

All chippings and loose soil should be removed from around the collar of the plant to be propagated. The leaf must then be held firmly, as near the base as possible, and given a sharp downward tug so that the whole leaf, complete with its short basal stalk, is removed. It is very important that the base of the stalk is intact for it is the point where the base was joined to the main stem of the parent plant that the embryo plant is contained.

Although not strictly leaf cuttings, a plant that makes a thick fleshy main stem, such as some of the European primulas, Primula marginata and its varieties for instance, sometimes begin to rot at the apex of the stem, owing to water having lodged there. If the top is completely cut away back to a healthy stock, then all foliage removed, it will be found that at the junction where the foliage joined the stem; small fresh rosettes will appear. After a few weeks, but still while small, they can be removed and dibbled into rooting compost, where they will soon make sturdy young plants.

For leaf cuttings a pan should be filled with equal parts of finely sifted leaf-mould and Cornish sand. The sand should be sifted through a 1/16 inch (2mm) sieve, well mixed with the leaf-mould and thoroughly moistened, and the whole made firm. The leaf cuttings are laid horizontally on the surface of the compost and the short basal stalk pressed into the mixture, making this firm so the leaf cannot move, for firmness is essential for rooting. This can be accomplished by using a piece of bent wire or, what I consider preferable, a small stone placed over the base of the leaf. Not only does the stone protect the base but also this vital part is kept moist and cool. The pan is then placed in the cutting frame which must be kept closed. Rooting actually takes place quickly, but new rosettes are generally slow to form. A careful watch must be maintained for as soon as these are discernible; the stone must be removed. After approximately 4 to 6 weeks the young plantlets will be ready to pot on in the suitable compost.

" from Collector's Alpines by Royton E. Heath published in 1964 by Collingridge Limited.

.

 

" Pans

A good supply of pans will be required for a really representative collection of alpines. I have always used half pots, not theso-called alpine pans, which in my opinion are too shallow for the cultivation of alpines. This is a personal preference but i have found that alpines, being naturally long rooting plants, require a deeper root run than is generally supposed. They also need good drainage, at least an inch (2.5 cms) of which hasto be used, thus very little room is left for the growing compost if shallow pans are used.

A number of the following sizes will meet most requirements, depending on the extent of the collection, but allowance should be made for plants that are naturally fast growing. Nothing is more annoying than to find that pans are not available when plants need repotting. This sometimes leads to putting off what is an important job, the health of the plants suffering in consequence. It is not only cheaper to purchase complete casts of the different sizes of pans, but also all pans in each individual cast will be of the same size, quite a labour saver when plunging plants.

Sizes

Diameter at top in inches (cms)

Thimbles

2 (5)

Sixties - 60s

3 (7.5)

Fifty-fours - 54s

4 (10)

Fourty-eights - 48s

4.5 (11.25)

Thirty-twos - 32s

6 (15)

Twenty-fours - 24s

8.5 (21.25)

Sixteens - 16s

9.5 (23.75)

Twelves - 12s

11.5 (28.75)

Eights - 8s

12 (30)

The measurements are taken 0.5 inches (1.25 cms) down inside the rim. The following is Chris Garnons-Williams idea of the minimum depth for these pans for alpines:-

  • 0.5 inches (1.25 cms) from top of pan - The staging of the alpine house is a matter of importance as the usual wooden slatted staging supplied with a greenhouse is not suitable. This allows too great a current of air to pass round and under the porous pots, causing them to dry out rapidly, which can prove extremely dangerous to their occupants, if a constant watch is not maintained. Another point is that they are not really strong enough unless reinforced extensively.
    The reason for needing a staging with great strength will be readily understood as all plants are plunged to their rims in equal parts gravel and coarse sand, the total weight being considerable. Brick pillars should be constructed to support the staging to a height of 33 inches (82.5 cms); with the pillars being 9 inches by 9 inches (22.5 cms). These pillars should be rendered with a cement mixture of 2 parts of soft sand to 1 of cement, giving a smooth surface so that all the cracks and crannies in the brickwork which could provide homes for pests are eliminated. The height of these supports allows 6 inches (15 cms) from the base of the staging to the edge of the side ventilators. When the pans are placed on the base of the staging the rims are, with the exception of plants in extra large pans, just below the bottom of the side ventilators. Thus, a current of air flows over the tops of the pans, not round the sides, where it could cause excessive drying out with harmful effect on the occupants.
    before
  • 0.4 inches (1 cm) of stone chippings on top of
  • 4.5 inches (12.5 cms) of Compost followed by
  • 0.6 inches (1.5 cms) of Drainage Material of Cornish sand - for the drainage itself, the Cornish sand (sharp silver sand) is first of all put through the 0.25 inch (6mm) sieve. The residue, consisting of the large particles, is used for the drainage, and placed to a depth of 0.5 inch (1.25 cms) or more according to the amount required. the first layer allows rapid passage of surplus water. At the same time there are a number of air spaces left between the particles, which are beneficial to the roots as well as keeping the whole moist but not stagnant. The remainder of the sand is then put through a 1/16 inch (1.5mm) sieve and here again the residue is used, just enough on the surface of the larger particles to cover and fill up any surface crevices. Lastly a thin layer of roughage is placed over the sand to prevent the compost filtering down and blocking up the drainage. The roughage can be from flaked leaf-mould or the residue of peat after sieving.
    This method has one great advantage over the use of other materials such as broken crocks or bricks. When repotting and after the plant is carefully removed, it will be observed that all the sand used for the drainage falls gently away leaving the long feeding roots hanging free, ready for repotting and the working in of fresh compost round the roots. On the other hand when broken crocks or bricks are used, normally the roots will be found adhering to them and making it a difficult task to free them without fracturing a large number, and causing a check to the plant.
    and finally
  • Perforated zinc on the complete base of the pan - For the crock required to cover the hole at the base of the pan is
    • either a small piece of crock roughly broken to fit over the hole completely, placed so that it is convex in relation to the base of the pan. This allows the drainage material to settle without blockage to the drainage vent. It becomes a first class residence for slugs, woodlice and other kindred pests.
    • or small pieces of perforated zinc. The circular pieces of this perforated zinc have outer edges being flat while the centres are convex, thus the pieces when placed on the base of the pan allow an air space but no ingress to pests.
  • to make a total pan height of at least 6 inches (15 cms).

A number of square pans are useful and take up less room on the staging, besides being easier for packing if exhibiting, but the cost is much greater than that of the orthodox round pans. These square pans can be constructed at home quite cheaply, all that is required is a wooden former or formers, the size or sizes depending entirely on the purpose for which they will be needed. The small wooden bung is cut from a broom shank and is needed for the drainage hole. The following Fig 16 gives a good idea of the method and used in conjunction with these notes it will be possible to produce first class containers.

squarepanformer

A sheet of brown paper larger than the required size of the pan is laid on a flat surface and the wooden former is placed in the centre. A mix is made consisting of

  • 1 part cement,
  • 1 part peat and
  • 2 parts sharp sand,

all ingredients should be well mixed dry first and then a little water added until the whole is just moist. This is important for the cement is applied by hand, about 0.5 inches (1.25 cms) thick and just smoothed out with a trowel; if too wet the mix will not retain its shape. Cover with a damp sack or rags and leave for at least 9 days, when the complete pan can be gently eased out of the former, which can be used over and over again. Naturally if a selection of formers is made up, it is possible to build up a good collection of pans over a period of time. Another advantage is that knowing the size of the available space on the alpine house staging it will be possible to build the square pans to size so that the maximum number of plants can be accomodated.

Another type of pan that is often used for growing the rarer high alpine plants, especially those with a long rooting system, is called the 'Long Tom'. This is at least twice the depth of the normal pans thus allowing the room needed for extra drainage material, required for this type of plant.

Most gardeners will want to raise plants from seed as this method is very often the only way of obtaining plants from abroad. To do this seed pans will also be required. Shallow pans are quite suitable, approximately 3 inches (7.5 cms) in depth, irrespective of the size of pan. Pans are generally preferable to the old shallow wooden seed boxes which are used for raising annual bedding plants each year, which are not only perishable, lasting but a year or two, but also provide a congenial home for woodlice and other pests. A number of small pots used for cacti, 1.5 inches (3.75 cms) in diameter for the first potting up of seedlings will also be found useful. No new bisque-fired clay pan must be used before having soaked for at least 24 hours in water. It is surprising the amount they will absorb during this period, the reason being that every trace of moisture has been extracted during the oven firing process. Failure to do this will have disastrous results, for any moisture in the compost when used for potting up will be absorbed by the dry pan instead of by the plant.

Cleanliness is essential when dealing with pans. It is the dirt adhering to the pan, especially at the base where the drainage goes that is the very thing you wish to avoid, and is only waiting the opportunity to infest what is otherwise clean compost. Here is the breeding home of nematodes, woodlice, slugs, etc. All pans should be scrubbed after use and before using for new plants. Warm water is best and add a soap powder. Special care should be taken that all dirt is removed from the base of the pan. A rinsing in clean cold water to which has been added a few crystals of potassium permanganate will complete the job.

" from Collector's Alpines by Royton E. Heath published in 1964 by Collingridge Limited.

BeeMat is a biodegradable pre-seeded growing mat that controls weeds. You can lay BeeMat from March until mid-August providing conditions remain good and the soil temperature is above 5 degrees Centigrade. It contains mixed flower seeds that have been carefully chosen to provide nectar and pollen for bees in the autumn when other flowers have finished. The bees visiting this mat will also visit your rock garden plants close by to pollinate your flowers and then you may get seeds to increase your stock of that rock plant

.

Why "GREEN Plant Swap?
"Our Story

For some 30 years my Dad has been selling plants to gardeners from his old rectory garden in Devon.

Always by appointment, they come and take a tour of the garden with him. They talk and share a bit of gardening knowledge or life experience, depending on how the mood takes them. Then they buy some plants. Many of the rhododendron gardens in the South West, including the National Trust, now grow plants from my Dad’s garden and come back for more each year.

For my parents this small garden business has delivered an invaluable income. More important, however, they've loved doing it and made many good friends in the process.

For 30 years too, they have also opened their garden under the National Gardens Scheme. This fabulous programme which attracts 750,000 visitors to 3,700 private gardens, raises £2.5m for charity each year. Brilliant. But it also has another less well known statistic: 2,500 of the garden owners also sell plants.

Meanwhile thousands of other smaller independent growers and nurseries, who know their plants struggle to compete with the bigger garden centres, DIY stores and supermarkets, who sell a much more limited range of popular plants.

So this got me thinking. Nature is prolific. The perfectly ordered border one year is a jungle within two or three, offering up many instant plants through division. Seeds are cheap and plentiful. Bulbs multiply. Cuttings shoot roots.

What if a location-based service helped gardeners grow and bag up some of these riches and sell or swap them with one another? Why, your garden could pay for itself, while you get many new plants, interests and friends along the way. What is there not to like?

And what if the service made it easy to list your plants against a central database and find the ones you most want, so it helped local and specialist nurseries too?

Then the whole service could help map and support the diversity of garden plants in the UK, which is at risk.

We hope you like what you find on GreenPlantSwap and get as much pleasure from swapping and selling plants from your garden as my Dad has over the last 30 years.

Jeremy Wright, Founder"

and so, Terms of Use:-

"What We Do - GreenPlantSwap is a service that lets you publish plant information and plant listings in order to help you to buy, sell and swap plants between yourselves as members. You need to be a member to do any of these things.

What we don't do - We can't promise or guarantee any particular result or outcomes when you become a member. For example, we can't promise that other members definitely will or won't buy your plants or sell particular plants to you (though of course we hope they would). As a result, we require members to be solely responsible for any and all agreements or arrangements they reach with each other through use of GreenPlantSwap and any legal aspects of them, for example contract law, consumer law (including distance selling, returns and refunds), negligence and occupier's liability. This includes any potential issues about whether the plants involved are as described, fit for purpose, of any particular quality or in any particular state or condition. We will not be responsible for any loss or damage that occurs as a result of any plant sale, purchase or exchange, whether the transaction went ahead or not."

So on to become a member of GreenPlantSwap.

Try using Peat Free compost instead of using Peat.

The National Herb Centre, banbury Road, Warmington, Near Banbury, Warwickshire has:-

" Nature Trail & Gardens

Our nature trail and display gardens are set in beautiful countryside and entry to them is free.

Nature Trail

Our nature trail winds down through a valley amongst fields, by ponds and into woodland with the opportunity to view three separate counties, namely Oxfordshire, Warwickshire and Northamptonshire.

There are three routes to choose from and the time to complete each trail ranges from 25 minutes to approximately an hour.

On the trail you may see all kinds of wildlife in its natural habitat including rabbits, foxes, badgers, bats, buzzards, partridge, a variety of deer or even a white stag, as well as seeing native trees and wild flowers.

A guide to the trail and what to look out for, is available in the shop.

Gardens

We have six specially designed demonstration herb gardens to show you how you can make the most of herbs in your own garden, including ideas for encouraging wildlife, growing edible herbs and a garden inspired by the Roman use of herbs.

When enjoying our nature trail and gardens please observe the simple rules of the countryside code and keep dogs on a lead and ensure children respect the welfare of wildlife, particularly in the spring and summer to avoid disturbing the wildlife during the important breeding months."

Not much room, then create a miniature garden:-

"The Miniature Garden Shoppe is a family business which opened in 2008. I (Kathryn) am the creative mind, designer, and gardener behind the store and my husband, Ben, is the computer-guy and entrepreneur. My mother-in-law, Mary, is our talented photographer.

The concept of miniature gardening makes so much sense. Many of us don’t have the time to tend huge gardens these days. And those who already have gardens, appreciate the opportunity for a new creative gardening outlet that doesn’t require digging up more ground or hours of maintenance.

I grew up in the greenhouse business and am a garden designer and horticulturalist by trade, with a degree in Ornamental Horticulture from the University of Illinois. I was first charmed and inspired by a miniature garden that I saw on an area garden club garden walk in 2005. Like any creative soul, I started thinking of how I would make my own little landscape. I started searching for all of the miniature garden necessities and began gardening in a new direction, on a much smaller scale. The ideas are limitless but the materials can be difficult to find, hence the Miniature Garden Shoppe….

It goes without saying that all of the products on our website are not toys and not intended for children. There are many sharp edges, pointed ends, and tiny pieces that are nothing but hazardous for young kids. Having said that, I can tell you that people of all ages are charmed by these little creations. My two-year old son loved to dig in the gardens with the tiny shovel and to water our miniature garden using the tiny bucket, which he fills from the birdbath in the yard.

Whatever your age or interest, I hope you find everything you need to create a tiny garden treasure of your own or for a special gift. Nothing can squash a flash of inspiration like the frustration of not being able to find what you need. If there’s something you’re looking for and can’t find it, please drop us a line. If you run into a problem when you’re creating your garden or a have a question while caring for it, please don’t hesitate to contact us. If we don’t have the answer, we’ll help you find it.

These little gardens are enchanting and intriguing and I’m glad your search has led you here. I know you’re going to have fun with this idea and I hope we can help!

Happy gardening,   

Kathryn Newman   

 

Miniature Garden Shoppe   "

 

 

List of all plants with their own page in this gallery, who do not have Plant Description Pages elsewhere:-

Photos of Each Rock Garden Plant returned to its 1 of 52 Flower Petal Colour Wheel Page
January Blooms
February Blooms
March Blooms
April Blooms
May Blooms
June Blooms
July Blooms
August Blooms
September Blooms
October Blooms
November Blooms
December Blooms
Small size Rock Garden Plants in different Flower Colours
Miniature Rock Garden Plants in different Flower Colours
Small size Rock Garden Plant flower in Month
Miniature Rock Garden Plant flower in Month
Acantholimon armenum - Violet 789 is Magenta Shift Flowers
Acantholimon echinus - Red Violet 789 is Pink Flowers
Acantholimon huetii - Red 789 is Flat Pink Flowers
Acantholimon ulicinium var. creticum - White Flowers
Aethionema schistosum - Red Violet 789 is Pink Flowers
Alectorurus yedoensis platypetala - White Flowers
Allium cernuum - White Flowers
Allium cyaneum - Blue 789 is Offwhite Blue Flowers
Allium mairon var. amabile - Red 789 is Flat Pink Flowers
Allium sikkimense (beesianum) - Blue 789 is Offwhite Blue Flowers
Anagallis monellii - Blue 56 is Blue Flowers
Aquilegia scopulorum - Blue 789 is Offwhite Blue Flowers
Arabis bryoides - White Flowers
Arenaria grandiflora - White Flowers
Arenaria montana - White Flowers
Crocus angustifolius - Yellow Orange 45 is Tangerine
Crocus medius - Blue Violet 7 is Mauve Flowers
Cyclamen africanum - Violet 789 is Magenta Shift
Cyclamen graecum - Violet 789 is Magenta Shift
Cyclamen libanoticum - Violet 789 is Magenta Shift
Cyclamen purpurascens - Violet 789 is Magenta Shift Flowers
Daphne arbuscula - Red Violet 789 is Pink Flowers
Dianthus alpinus - Red 789 is Flat Pink Flowers
Dianthus callizonus - Blue Violet 7 is Mauve Flowers
Dianthus haematocalyx subsp. pindicola - Violet 789 is Magenta Shift Flowers
Dionysia aretioides - Yellow 56 is Yellow Flowers
Draba dedeana - White Flowers
Fritillaria pudica - Yellow 56 is Yellow Flowers
Globularia incanescens - Blue 789 is Offwhite Blue Flowers
Iris histrioides 'George' - Blue Violet 34 is The Bands Flowers
Iris histrioides 'Lady Beatrix Stanley' - Blue 56 is Blue Flowers
Lewisia cotyledon 'Regenbogen' - Red Violet 56 is Process Pagenta Flowers
Narcissus bulbocodium - Yellow 56 is Yellow Flowers
Narcissus bulbocodium x romieuxii - Yellow 56 is Yellow Flowers
Petrophytum caespitosum - White Flowers
Site Map for Rock Garden Plants who do not have Plant Description Pages

Rock Plant Colour Wheel - Flowers Link Map

Click on Number in Colour Wheel or Black sections below:-

colourwheelexported1a1

 

Some abbreviations have been used in compiling the list of Rock Plants for small gardens in order to make it possible to provide all the required information at a glance in a condensed form within the Rock Garden Plant Index Pages.

Name

First is the name of the genus to which the plant belongs which is given in capitals. Under the generic name the names of the species and varieties are recorded.

Link to photos, cultivation details or mail-order business that sells it.

Link in *** to Rock Garden Colour Wheel Page with photo of the plant at bottom of page. Then, More Photos Page links to further photos / description in its Rock Plant Photos Gallery Page. Followed by link in Return to Rock Garden Colour Wheel Page for comparison of flower photos or link in Index Page in the Rock Garden Colour Wheel Gallery for possible further description.

Suitability

Details of which container to grow the plant in:-

Type

Abbreviated to:-

  • B for Bulb
  • H for Herb - any non-woody plant that is not a tree or shrub
  • HP for Herbaceous Perennial
  • S for Shrub
  • SS for Sub-shrub

followed by

  • E for Evergreen
  • D for Deciduous

Height and Spread

The approximate height is given first in inches, followed by the approximate spread, when mature. 1 inch (") = 25.4 millimetres (mm)

Soil

The figures A, B, C and D denote that the plant in question requires one of the following soil mixtures:-

  • A. Equal parts of loam, leafmould and sand. This is a suitable mixture for plants which require a light, open, porous soil with good drainage. A good mixture for troughs in a sheltered position in part shade. All bulbs and conifers do well in this medium.
  • B. Equal parts of loam, leafmould, peat and sand. This is more retentive of water but is well-drained and will grow all the plants in this Rock Plant List which are suitable for full sun, and it is ideal for woodland plants in part shade.
  • C. Four parts leafmould and one part each of loam and sand. A soil for growing dwarf rhododendrons and other ericaceous plants in the raised bed type of trough and peat beds.
  • D. Three parts Cornish silver sand and one part flaked leafmould. For all difficult and rare high alpines, including most of the cushion type. The trough containing this mixture is best situated in part shade.

which may be followed by

  • N for when a neutral pH medium is required.
  • L for when a limey pH medum is required.

Where no additional letter is given, the plant will thrive under either condition.

Position and Protection

The following terms and abbreviations used singly or in combination will minimize the risk of planting in an unsuitable spot:-

  • C --- This means that the plant will do well planted on its side in a crevice built up on the rocks for preference.
  • P --- This plant requires a pane of glass suspended over it in winter, generally from October to the end of March.
  • PS -- A part-shady spot or facing west with protection from the south by a shadow cast by either a rock or shrub.
  • SA -- Shady position either facing north or protected by a rock.
  • Sun - This means that the plant will require a normal amount of direct sunlight.
  • W --- The plant will do well planted in a vertical position in the side of a trough or scree frame.

Flower Colour, Nearest Colour Wheel - Flowers Colour and Months of Flowering

These 3 columns are self-explanatory;
for example, Orange June, means that

  • the flowers are orange (if the plant has a Plant Description Page in this website then the link from here will be to that Plant Description Page otherwise to a Plant Description found on the Internet),
  • orange3 in the Colour Wheel - Flowers is the nearest colour for the majority of the flower petal (either from a flower image in this website or an image found on the Internet), with link to the Colour Wheel - Flowers Colour and
  • the flowering month is June with link to the flower photo on the Internet.

A double entry such as
Orange August
Red October
means that the plant has orange flowers in August and red fruits or berries in October.

Propagation

A general idea to the best method of increasing the stock:-

  • C ---- Half-ripened wood at the end of July.
  • D ----- Division.
  • GC ---- Green Cuttings in late spring.
  • L ------ Layering.
  • Leaf C - The plant is best propagated by leaf cuttings.
  • RC ----- Fully ripened wood at the end of September.
  • Root C - The plant is best propagated by cutting the thick root thongs at the end of September.
  • S ------- The best method is by seed.

may be followed by

  • H - Where this letter is placed after any of the above abbreviations, it means that bottom heat is essential to obtain a fair percentage of strikes.
    The omission of this letter does not mean that bottom heat cannot be employed; in fact, its use will certainly save an appreciable amount of time taken to increase the stock.

A combination of the above will denote that the plant can be increased by all the methods which those abbreviated letters stand for.

Propagation Seed Composts

"I am giving 3 types of composts which will be numbered 1, 2 and 3 so that they will not be confused with the potting mixtures. The number of the compost will be noted under the heading of propagation in the list of plants. These are not offered as the only types in which seedlings may be grown, but they have proved their worth over many years. As it will only be on rare occasions that a bushel of compost of any one of the seed mixtures will be required, I will give the size of the box which can be constructed easily to hold a quarter of a bushel, an amount more in keeping with the average amateur's need. The inside measurements of the box, which is best made of wood are 10 by 10 x 5.5 inches deep (25 by 25 x 13.25 cms). By doubling the depth a half bushel measure is available.

Compost 1
A mixture that has been found suitable for all the ordinary and easy types of alpine seed is the John Innes seed compost.
It can of course be mixed at home as required. Only the amount needed at the time should be made for its lasting qualities are strictly limited. All the following ingredients are mixed by bulk, not weight, and are best used dry after mixing, storing the compost for a day or 2 before use.

  • Take 2 parts of medium-heavy sterilised loam from a reliable source, full of rotted grass roots. The soil should be rubbed down between the hands into a light granular texture. All fibrous material must be retained and if large; cut into small pieces with scissors and mixed into the loam. On no account should the loam be sieved. This will spoil the texture of the finished compost and cause it to pack readily, a state of affairs to be avoided, for it is essential that the soil be open and granular in texture.
  • Add 1 part of sieved peat,
  • 1 part of Cornish sand

and well mix the whole together dry. Afterwards to this is added

  • 1.5 ounces of superphosphate of lime and
  • 0.75 ounces of chalk

to each bushel of compost. If this mixture is to be used for plants which are lime haters, the chalk should be omitted.

 

Compost 2
The more difficult and rare plants need a light, open soil in which to germinate and the following has been tried and found suitable. Equal parts by bulk of medium heavy fibrous loam and leaf-mould. Both the loam and leaf-mould should be sterilised and then rubbed down to a fine granular texture. The particles are better if small, but should not be sieved. To this is added 2 parts of Cornish sand, after sieving through a 1/16 inch sieve (2 mm) as the larger particles are not needed.

 

Compost 3
Shade-loving dwarf rhododendrons and other ericaceous and woodland plants like a more spongy yet still open medium. This consists of equal parts leaf-mould, peat and Cornish sand. The leaf-mould must be sterilised and rubbed down fine, the peat and sand should be sieved though a 1/16 inch (2 mm) sieve, and the wole well mixed together.

 

Both composts 2 and 3 need a very fine sprinkling of superphosphate of lime, just under 0.5 ounce for a a quarter of a bushel of mixture or to be more precise 3/8 of an ounce. The superphosphate is needed by the seedlings in their early growth. In fact it is essential as a plant food as soon as the seed starts to germinate, so it must be mixed with the composts, not applied afterwards. " from Collector's Alpines by Royton E. Heath published in 1964 by Collingridge Limited.

 

THE 2 EUREKA EFFECT PAGES FOR UNDERSTANDING SOIL AND HOW PLANTS INTERACT WITH IT OUT OF 15,000:-


Explanation of Structure of this Website with User Guidelines Page for those photo galleries with Photos
(of either ones I have taken myself or others which have been loaned only for use on this website from external sources)

 

or

 

when I do not have my own or ones from mail-order nursery photos , then from March 2016, if you want to start from the uppermost design levels through to your choice of cultivated and wildflower plants to change your Plant Selection Process then use the following galleries:-

  • Create and input all plants known by Amateur Gardening inserted into their Sanders' Encyclopaedia from their edition published in 1960 (originally published by them in 1895) into these
    • Stage 1 - Garden Style Index Gallery,
      then
    • Stage 2 - Infill Plants Index Gallery being the only gallery from these 7 with photos (from Wikimedia Commons) ,
      then
    • Stage 3 - All Plants Index Gallery with each plant species in its own Plant Type Page followed by choice from Stage 4a, 4b, 4c and/or 4d REMEMBERING THE CONSTRAINTS ON THE SELECTION FROM THE CHOICES MADE IN STAGES 1 AND 2
    • Stage 4a - 12 Bloom Colours per Month Index Gallery,
    • Stage 4b - 12 Foliage Colours per Month Index Gallery with
    • Stage 4c - Cultivation, Position, Use Index Gallery and
    • Stage 4d - Shape, Form Index Gallery
    • Unfortunately, if you want to have 100's of choices on selection of plants from 1000's of 1200 pixels wide by up to 16,300 pixels in length webpages, which you can jump to from almost any of the pages in these 7 galleries above, you have to put up with those links to those choices being on
      • the left topic menu table,
      • the header of the middle data table and on
      • the page/index menu table on the right of every page of those galleries.

 

 

I hope that you find that the information in this website is useful to you:-

I like reading and that is shown by the index in my Library, where I provide lists of books to take you between designing, maintaining or building a garden and the hierarchy of books on plants taking you from

There are the systems for choosing plants as shown in

 

Site design and content copyright ©August 2013 Chris Garnons-Williams.

DISCLAIMER: Links to external sites are provided as a courtesy to visitors. Ivydene Horticultural Services are not responsible for the content and/or quality of external web sites linked from this site.  

Ivydene Horticultural Services logo with I design, construct and maintain private gardens. I also advise and teach you in your own garden. 01634 389677

 

List of Desirable Plants (from Vancouver Island Rock
and Alpine Garden Society)

 

Vancouver Island Rock and Alpine Garden Society is a club of plant lovers living near Victoria, British Columbia, Canada, who visit, study, photograph, draw and grow alpine plants, bog dwellers and woodlanders, whether native or exotic. We encourage the propagation and distribution of plants.

There are other pages on Plants which bloom in each month of the year in this website:-

 

 

 

Further details on Seed Pans, Cuttings and Pans for Rock Garden Plants in the Site Map of this Gallery.

PAGES FOR PHOTOS OF ROCK GARDEN PLANTS WHO DO NOT HAVE THEIR OWN PLANT DESCRIPTION PAGE

Site Map *

Introduction

Small size plant in Flower Colours
Miniature size plant in Flower Colours
Small Size plant flower in Month
Miniature Size plant flower in Month

FLOWERING IN MONTH
January
February
March
April
May
June
July
August
September
October
November
December

Dark Tone or Shades
(Colours mixed with Black)
Mid-Tone
(Colours mixed with Grey)
Pure Hue
(the Primary, Secondary or Tertiary Colour named)
Pastel
(Colours mixed with White)

ROCK GARDEN PLANT INDEX
(o)Rock Plant: A
(o)Rock Plant: B
(o)Rock Plant: C
(o)Rock Plant: D
(o)Rock Plant: E
(o)Rock Plant: F
(o)Rock Plant: G
(o)Rock Plant: H
(o)Rock Plant: I
(o)Rock Plant: J
(o)Rock Plant: K
(o)Rock Plant: L
(o)Rock Plant: M
(o)Rock Plant: NO
(o)Rock Plant: PQ
(o)Rock Plant: R
(o)Rock Plant: S
(o)Rock Plant: T
(o)Rock Plant: UVWXYZ


Website Structure Explanation and User Guidelines


Topic

Case Studies
Companion Planting
Garden Construction Garden Design
...RHS Mixed Borders
......Bedding Plants
......Her Perennials
......Other Plants Garden Maintenance
Glossary
Home
Library
Offbeat Glossary
Plants
Soil
Tool Shed
Useful Data

........

Topic - Plant Photo Galleries
Aquatic
Bamboo
Bedding
...by Flower Shape

Bulb
...Allium/ Anemone
...Autumn
...Colchicum/ Crocus
...Dahlia
...Gladiolus
...Hippeastrum/ Lily
...Late Summer
...Narcissus
...Spring
...Tulip
...Winter
Climber
...Clematis
...Climbers
Conifer
Deciduous Shrub
...Shrubs - Decid
Deciduous Tree
...Trees - Decid
Evergreen Perennial
...P-Evergreen A-L
...P-Evergreen M-Z
...Flower Shape
Evergreen Shrub
...Shrubs - Evgr
...Heather Shrub
Evergreen Tree
...Trees - Evgr
Fern
Grass
Hedging
Herbaceous Perennial
...P -Herbaceous
...RHS Wisley
...Flower Shape
Herb
Odds and Sods
Rhododendron
Rose
...RHS Wisley A-F
...RHS Wisley G-R
...RHS Wisley S-Z
...Rose Use
...Other Roses A-F
...Other Roses G-R
...Other Roses S-Z
Soft Fruit
Top Fruit
...Apple

...Cherry
...Pear
Vegetable

Wild Flower
with its
flower colour page,
space,
Site Map page in its flower colour
NOTE Gallery
...Blue Note
...Brown Note
...Cream Note
...Green Note
...Mauve Note
...Multi-Cols Note
...Orange Note
...Pink A-G Note
...Pink H-Z Note
...Purple Note
...Red Note
...White A-D Note
...White E-P Note
...White Q-Z Note
...Yellow A-G Note
...Yellow H-Z Note
...Shrub/Tree Note

......

Topic - Flower/Foliage Colour Colour Wheel Galleries
Following your choice using Garden Style then that changes your Plant Selection Process
Garden Style
...Infill Plants
...12 Bloom Colours per Month Index
...12 Foliage Colours per Month Index
...All Plants Index
...Cultivation, Position, Use Index
...Shape, Form
Index

or
you could use these Flower Colour Wheels with number of colours

All Flowers 53

All Flowers per Month 12
All Bee-Pollinated Flowers per Month 12
...Index
 

----------


Rock Garden and Alpine Flower Colour Wheel with number of colours
Rock Plant Flowers 53

...Rock Plant
Photos
*

Further details on Alpine plants for Rock Gardens from the Infill galleries:-
...for other uses
...Shrub
...Conifer
...Meadow 1, 2 , 3
...Border
...Lime dislikers
...For Walls 1, 2, 3
...Between Paving
...in Troughs
...Grow on Walls
Other Websites:-
......Horticult
Garden

......Green walls: How to grow a garden vertically from The Telegraph
......Green Walls by Royal Horticultural Society
......What you can grow in
shady spaces
Other Galleries:-
...Alpine List
...Evergreen Pers
...Herb Pers
...Plants used by the Egg, Caterpillar, Chrysalis and Butterfly
...Wildflowers including those for Old Buildings and Walls

----------

 

 

or
these Foliage Colour Wheels structures, which have done but until I can take the photos and I am certain of the plant label's validity, these may not progress much further

All Foliage 212

All Spring Foliage 212
All Summer Foliage 212
All Autumn Foliage 212
All Winter Foliage 212

or
Flower Colour Wheel without photos, but with links to photos
12 Bloom Colours per Month Index
...All Plants Index

......

Topic - Wildlife on Plant Photo Gallery
Butterfly
Usage of Plants
by Egg, Caterpillar, Chrysalis and Butterfly

Egg, Caterpillar, Chrysalis and Butterfly usage of
Plant A-C
Plant C-M
Plant N-W
Butterfly usage of Plant

.......

 

 

Fragrant Plants adds the use of another of your 5 senses in your garden:-
Sense of Fragrance from Roy Genders

Fragrant Plants:-
Trees and Shrubs with Scented Flowers.

Trees and Shrubs with Scented Leaves.

Trees and Shrubs with Aromatic Bark.

Shrubs bearing Scented Flowers for an
Acid Soil
.

Shrubs bearing Scented Flowers for a
Chalky or Limestone Soil
.

Shrubs bearing Scented leaves for a
Sandy Soil
.

Herbaceous Plants with Scented Flowers.

Herbaceous Plants with Scented Leaves.

Annual and Biennial Plants with Scented Flowers or Leaves.

Bulbs and Corms with Scented Flowers.

Scented Plants of Climbing and Trailing Habit.

Winter-flowering Plants with Scented Flowers.

Night-scented Flowering Plants.

Scented Aquatic Plants.

Plants with Scented Fruits.

Plants with Scented Roots.

Trees and Shrubs with Scented Wood.

Trees and Shrubs with Scented Gums.

Scented Cacti and Succulents.

Plants bearing Flowers or Leaves of Unpleasant Smell.
 

Flower Perfume Group:-

Indoloid Group.

Aminoid Group with scent - Hawthorn.

Heavy Group with scents -
Jonquil and
Lily.

Aromatic Group with scents - Almond,
Aniseed, Balsamic,
Carnation, Cinnamon, Clove,
Spicy and
Vanilla.

Violet Group.

Rose Group.

Lemon Group with scent -
Verbena.

Fruit-scented Group with scents -
Apricot,
Fruity,
Green Apple,
Orange, Pineapple,
Ripe Apple , Ripe Banana and
Ripe Plum.

Animal-scented Group with scents -
Cat,
Dog,
Ferret,
Fox,
Goat,
Human Perspiration,
Musk,
Ripe Apple and
Tom Cat.

Honey Group.

Unpleasant Smell Group with scents -
Animal,
Fetid,
Fishy,
Foxy,
Fur-like,
Garlic,
Hemlock,
Manure,
Nauseating,
Perspiration,
Petrol,
Putrid,
Rancid,
Sickly,
Skunk,
Stale Lint,
Sulphur and
Urinous.

Miscellaneous Group with scents -
Balm,
Brandy,
Cedar,
Cloying,
Cowslip,
Cucumber,
Damask Rose, Daphne,
Exotic,
Freesia,
Fur-like,
Gardenia,
Hay-like,
Heliotrope, Honeysuckle,
Hops,
Hyacinth,
Incense-like, Jasmine,
Laburnham,
Lilac,
Lily of the Valley, Meadowsweet, Mignonette,
Mint,
Mossy,
Muscat,
Muscatel,
Myrtle-like,
Newly Mown Hay, Nutmeg,
Piercing,
Primrose,
Pungent,
Resinous, Sandalwood, Sassafras,
Seductive,
Slight,
Soft,
Stephanotis,
Sulphur,
Starch,
Sweet,
Sweet-briar,
Tea-rose,
Treacle and
Very Sweet.

 

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