Ivydene Gardens Companion Planting: Companion Plant : A
 

This Companion Plant A-Z Table shows in tabular form the following, as a quick reference guide:-

• name of original plant in alphabetical order
• name of pest/disease of that original plant
• name of antidote to that pest/disease as a companion plant, or name of companion plant or beneficial insect or animal to the original plant
• name of antagonistic plant to that original plant or name of a Pest/Disease that this original plant is antagonistic to.

Some plants are antagonistic so must be kept apart!

"Best time for planting Alliums starts end of September till end October, or before it starts freezing they need to develop roots before the soil becomes solid. In general Allium bulbs need to have 3 to 4 times the height of the bulb of soil on top of them and most like mulching. They do like some old cattle manure (compost) when planting.

We are in zone 2 – 3 here and we grow them all outside in the open. In the wild they’re often covered with dead grass/twigs or bush, we give them a winter cover of leaves or straw.

In the growing stage they need moisture but after flowering, bulbs need warm and dry conditions to get ready for winter and the next flowering season.

It is wise to replant the big Allium bulbs every 2-3 years, as they will have used up all the necessary nutrients they need at that spot. At the same time you should divide the bulbs while planting, that way you will get extra Alliums. " from Alliums-Everywhere who sell them in Canada

ORIGINAL PLANT

PEST/DISEASE

COMPANION PLANT

ANTAGONISTIC PLANT OR TO PEST/-DISEASE

Acidanthera
bicolor

Chamaecyparis
pisifera 'Plumosa'

Allium albopilosum, Allium caeruleum,

Allium elatum, Allium rosenbachianum, Allium stipitatum

Salvia officinalis,
Santolina chamae-cyparissus, Lavender,
Dianthus,

Ballota
pseudodictamnus

Allium moly

Viburnum farreri, Hamemelis

Allium neapolitanum

Bergenia,

Pulmonaria

Allium ostrowskianum

Sage

Amaryllis bulbs

Zephyranthes,
Sternbergia,
Iris unguicalaris,
Nerine,
Salvia officinalis,
Aethionema
'Warley Rose',
Dianthus,
Alyssum saxatile

American Chestnut

Chestnut blight

Oak

Galanthus,

Winter aconite,
Betula,
Cornus stolifera,
Cornus alba,
Senecio laxifolius,
Cistus,

Hebe 'Pagei',
Lavendula

Anemone 'De Caen' and
Anemone 'St Brigid'

Alyssum saxatile, Lavender,
Sage

Anemone fulgens 'Multipetala'

Lavender,
Santolina chamaecyparissus

Narcissus
'February Gold'

Anemone pavonina (Peacock Anemone)

Cistus,
Rosemary

Anemone ranunculoides

Anemone hepatica,
Hellebores,

Trillium

Angelica

Stinging nettle
( Urtica diocia )

Anise (Pimpenella anisum)

Coriander,
Cabbage,
Cucumber,
Leek,
Tomato,
Bean

Anomatheca laxa and Anomatheca cruenta

Corydalis ochroleuca

Apple (Malus)

Scab. Woolly Aphid

Chives (Chives inhibit the formation of apple scab).
Nasturtium.
Wallflower,
Sweet woodruff
( Asperula
odorata ) as
ground cover,
Onion,
Garlic,
Foxglove (Foxgloves improve vitality and resistance to disease. Also improves the keeping quality of the apples)

Grass (Grass roots exude gas which shrivels the tender root-tips of apple trees),

Potato (Potato may get Phytophtera blight)

Carrots will turn bitter and potatoes become tasteless and start to rot if stored with apples.

Apricots

Fruit-fly

Scent from Basil, Tansy or Southernwood clumps round tree

Oat and tomato roots with Apricot roots inhibit each others growth

Artemisia

Fruit tree
Cabbage

Moth
Slug

Arum italicum 'Pictum'

Galanthus,
Winter Aconites,
Hellebore

Asparagus

Asparagus beetle ( Crioceris asparagi ).

Tomato.
Parsley,
Basil.
Mulch with hay and leave undisturbed except for picking to aid growth.

Onion

Aubergine ( Solanum melonena )

Pea,
Tarragon,
Thyme

Azalea

juglone from black walnut tree leaves

This is from the Members Newsletter for Summer 2019 from the Biodynamic Association:-

"The new Online Biodynamic Gardening Club has launched.
Join via this link https://www.biodynamic.org.uk/garden/#bd-garden-club
 

A month ago we launched our new exciting venture and a first for the BDA; our on line Biodynamic Gardening Club. Our hope and mission for the club is very simple. It has been our dream and objective for as many people as possible to experience what the biodynamic approach to gardening offers; the joy it can bring to you and your garden, as well as helping people to grow delicious food brimming with health and vitality.

The club is for everyone who is curious, would like to learn more, deepen their relationship with nature and their garden, and create mini havens of vitality and biodiversity - above and below ground. Whether anyone has a tiny urban patch, an allotment, belong to a community garden, or just fancies growing their own salad leaves, all are welcome. It's very much a community inspired venture, too, where everyone supports each other and has a real say in how they want the club to develop.

Here's what our new on line club offers:

• A quarterly seasonal online e-newsletter
• Members Facebook Group where you can share experience, tips, and advice, communicate with us, and other club members and where to find all the latest news.
• Interactive webinairs with experts in their field
• An online resource library
• News and events
• Regular offers

We hope you enjoy being part of this growing and dynamic community of biodynamic gardening enthusiasts. We passionately believe in the power of gardeners; supporting and learning from each other, and doing our bit to care for the planet to ensure that we leave it in good shape for our children and future generations."

The following are pages I have written about Biodynamic Gardening in this folder:-

Biodynamics Introduction
Preparations
     Preparation Use
     Advantages
     Rotation
     Cropping Sequence
Gardening

COMPANION PLANTING
PAGE MENU

Companion Introduction

Site Map
Franck's Veg Garden
My Vegetable Garden
Katie Thear Veg Garden
Riotte Veg Garden
Create Companion Garden

Companion Plant A
Companion Plant B
Companion Plant C
Companion Plant D
Companion Plant E
Companion Plant F
Companion Plant G
Companion Plant H
Companion Plant I
Companion Plant J
Companion Plant K
Companion Plant L
Companion Plant M
Companion Plant N
Companion Plant O
Companion Plant P
Companion Plant Q
Companion Plant R
Companion Plant S
Companion Plant T
Companion Plant UV
Companion Plant W
Companion Plant XYZ

Pest Control

Companion References
Companion Library AG
Companion Library GW

Biodynamics Introduction
Preparations
     Preparation Use
     Advantages
     Rotation
     Cropping Sequence
Gardening

Before reaching for the pesticides, here are a few alternative natural, non-toxic methods of slug control:  

• Watering Schedule - Far and away the best course of action against slugs in your garden is a simple adjustment in the watering schedule. Slugs are most active at night and are most efficient in damp conditions. Avoid watering your garden in the evening if you have a slug problem. Water in the morning - the surface soil will be dry by evening. Studies show this can reduce slug damage by 80%.

• Seaweed - If you have access to seaweed, it's well worth the effort to gather. Seaweed is not only a good soil amendment for the garden, it's a natural repellent for slugs. Mulch with seaweed around the base of plants or perimeter of bed. Pile it on 3" to 4" thick - when it dries it will shrink to just an inch or so deep. Seaweed is salty and slugs avoid salt. Push the seaweed away from plant stems so it's not in direct contact. During hot weather, seaweed will dry and become very rough which also deters the slugs.

• Copper - Small strips of copper can be placed around flower pots or raised beds as obstructions for slugs to crawl over. Cut 2" strips of thin copper and wrap around the lower part of flower pots, like a ribbon. Or set the strips in the soil on edge, making a "fence" for the slugs to climb. Check to make sure no vegetation hangs over the copper which might provide a 'bridge' for the slugs. Copper barriers also work well around wood barrels used as planters.
A non-toxic copper-based metallic mesh Slug Shield is available which can be wrapped around the stem of plants and acts as a barrier to slugs. When slugs come in contact with the mesh they receive an electric-like shock. The mesh also serves as a physical barrier. These slug shields are reusable, long-lasting and weather-proof.

• Diatomaceous Earth - Diatomaceous earth (Also known as "Insect Dust") is the sharp, jagged skeletal remains of microscopic creatures. It lacerates soft-bodied pests, causing them to dehydrate. A powdery granular material, it can be sprinkled around garden beds or individual plants, and can be mixed with water to make a foliar spray.
Diatomaceous earth is less effective when wet, so use during dry weather. Wear protective gear when applying, as it can irritate eyes and lungs. Be sure to buy natural or agricultural grade diatomaceous earth, not pool grade which has smoother edges and is far less effective. Click for more information or to purchase Food Grade Diatomaceous Earth.

• Electronic "slug fence" - An electronic slug fence is a non-toxic, safe method for keeping slugs out of garden or flower beds. The Slugs Away fence is a 24-foot long, 5" ribbon-like barrier that runs off a 9 volt battery. When a slug or snail comes in contact with the fence, it receives a mild static sensation that is undetectable to animals and humans. This does not kill the slug, it cause it to look elsewhere for forage. The battery will power the fence for about 8 months before needing to be replaced. Extension kits are availabe for increased coverage. The electronic fence will repel slugs and snails, but is harmless to people and pets.

• Lava Rock - Like diatomaceous earth, the abrasive surface of lava rock will be avoided by slugs. Lava rock can be used as a barrier around plantings, but should be left mostly above soil level, otherwise dirt or vegetation soon forms a bridge for slugs to cross.

• Salt - If all else fails, go out at night with the salt shaker and a flashlight. Look at the plants which have been getting the most damage and inspect the leaves, including the undersides. Sprinkle a bit of salt on the slug and it will kill it quickly. Not particularly pleasant, but use as a last resort. (Note: some sources caution the use of salt, as it adds a toxic element to the soil. This has not been our experience, especially as very little salt is used.)

• Beer - Slugs are attracted to beer. Set a small amount of beer in a shallow wide jar buried in the soil up to its neck. Slugs will crawl in and drown. Take the jar lid and prop it up with a small stick so rain won't dilute the beer. Leave space for slugs to enter the trap.

• Overturned Flowerpots, Grapefruit Halves, Board on Ground - Overturned flowerpots, with a stone placed under the rim to tilt it up a bit, will attract slugs. Leave overnight, and you'll find the slugs inside in the morning. Grapefruit halves work the same way, with the added advantage of the scent of the fruit as bait.
Another trap method, perhaps the simplest of all, is to set a wide board on the ground by the affected area. Slugs will hide under the board by day. Simply flip the board over during the day to reveal the culprits. Black plastic sheeting also works the same way.

• Garlic-based slug repellents
Laboratory tests at the University of Newcastle-Upon-Tyne (UK) revealed that a highly refined garlic product (ECOguard produced by ECOspray Ltd, a British company that makes organic pesticides) was an effective slug killer. Look for garlic-based slug deterrents which will be emerging under various brand names, as well as ECOguard.

• Coffee grounds; new caffeine-based slug/snail poisons - Coffee grounds scattered on top of the soil will deter slugs. The horticultural side effects of using strong grounds such as espresso on the garden, however, are less certain. When using coffee grounds, moderation is advised.
A study in June 2002 reported in the journal Nature found that slugs and snails are killed when sprayed with a caffeine solution, and that spraying plants with this solution prevents slugs from eating them. The percentage of caffeine required in a spray (1 - 2%) is greater than what is found in a cup of coffee (.05 - 07%), so homemade sprays are not as effective. Look for new commercial sprays which are caffeine-based.