Ivydene Gardens Deciduous Trees Gallery:
Site Map

DECIDUOUS TREE GALLERY PAGES

Site Map of pages with content (o)

Introduction

Blue,
White,
Yellow,
Green for Orange and Other Colours with
Red and Pink in one page (shown in the Colour Wheel as Red, Purple and Pink)
Flower Colours per Month in Colour Wheel below in this DECIDUOUS TREE Gallery.

Click on Black or White box in Colour of Month.

None of the Deciduous Trees in this Gallery are in flower during Jan-Mar or Aug-Dec.

TREES - DECIDUOUS GALLERY PAGES

FLOWER COLOUR
Blue
Orange
(o)Other Colours
Pink
Red
(o)White
Yellow

FOLIAGE COLOUR
Black
Blue
Brown
Bronze
(o)Green
Grey
Purple
Red
Silver
Variegated White
Variegated Yellow
White
Yellow
(o)Autumn Colour
4 Season Colour
 

Deciduous Tree
A, B, C, D, E,
F, G, H, I, J,
K, L, M, N, O,
P, Q, R, S, T,
U, V, W, XYZ
 

TREES - DECIDUOUS GALLERY PAGES

SHAPE
(o)Columnar
Oval
(o)Rounded
Flattened Spherical
(o)Narrow Conical
Broad Conical
Egg-shaped
(o)Broad Ovoid
Narrow Vase-shaped
Fan-shaped
Broad Fan-shaped
Narrow Weeping
Broad Weeping
Single-stem Palm
Multi-stem Palm

SEED/ FRUIT COLOUR
(o)Seed

BEDS WITH PICTURES
(o)Garden

Deciduous Tree Height from Text Border in this Gallery
 

Brown =
0-240 inches
(0-600 cms)
with
Deciduous Trees
in Page
A-C

Blue =
240-480 inches
(600-1200 cms)

Green =
480+ inches
(1200+ cms)

Red = Potted
with Climbers and Wall Shrubs for
Large
Pots and Con-tainers
in Pages
1, 2

Black = Small Garden
with
Tree/Shrub for Small Garden
in Pages
1, 2,
3, 4,
5, 6,
7, 8,
9, 10,
11,12,
13,14,
15,16,
uses of tree/ shrub
 

Deciduous Tree Soil Moisture from Text Background in this Gallery
 

Wet Soil

Moist Soil

Dry Soil

The Plant Height Border in this Gallery has changed from :-
Blue = 0-2 feet (0-24 inches), Green = 2-6 feet (24-72 inches), Red = 6+ feet (72+ inches) to:-

• Brown = 0-240 inches (0-600 cms) for Small Trees,
• Blue = 240-480 inches (600-1200) for Medium Trees,
• Green = 480+ inches (1200+ cms) for Large Trees,
• Red = Potted Trees - Trees kept in Pots on Patio Area
• Black = Small Garden - Trees in the ground which are suitable for a Small garden

Click on thumbnail to change to the Plant Description Page of the Deciduous Tree named in the Text box below that photo.
The Comments Row of that Deciduous Tree Description Page details where that Deciduous Tree is available from.

Deciduous Tree Name

Flower Colour

Link to Camera Photo Gallery Page if that is where its details and photos are

Flowering Months

Height x Spread in inches (cms)
(1 inch = 2.5 cms,
12 inches = 1 foot
12 inches = 30 cms,
24 inches = 2 feet,
3 feet = 1 yard,
40 inches = 100 cms)

Foliage Colour

Use

A

Acacia karroo (Vachellia karroo)

Yellow

Jun

200-480 x 960 (500-1200 x 2400)

Dark Green

Grow as wall shrubs. Best grown in conservatory in UK

Amelanchier canadensis
(Shadbush)

White

April, May

240 x 120
(600 x 300)

Mid-Green, yellow to orange and red in Autumn

Bears bright red berries, much loved by the birds!

Erect form. Broad ovoid shape. Popular small tree that gives a wonderful, year round display. In spring it bears masses of small, white flowers, just as the foliage is emerging to provide a beautiful coppery backdrop. Over the summer the leaves change to bright green before turning to yellows and reds in the autumn.

B

Betula pendula
(Birch)

Yellow-Brown Catkins

April, May

720 x 240
(1800 x 600)

Mid-Green becoming Yellow in the Autumn

Makes an excellent windbreak tree.

Bears small yellow catkins in spring.

Narrow Conical form. Pruning Group 1. Native UK plant. Beautiful tree, but don't plant near a vegetable garden as it's seed gets into cabbages and lettuce!!

"This is the variety that you have seen in all the woods and fields throughout the country, however this should not put you off; as it has many uses within the garden. Has a fairly upright habit with pendulous ends to the branches. The bark becomes white and quite warty with age, often with very clear rings all around the trunk. The leaves are diamond shaped and mid green, turning yellow in the autumn. Thrives in poor soils and does not take kindly to feeding or mulching.

C, D, E

F

Fraxinus sieboldiana
(Ash)

Fragrant Creamy-White

June, July

240 x 180
(600 x 450)

Dark Green and leaf up to 8 inches long

Rounded form.

Pruning Group 1. Native to central China.

G, H, I, J, K

L

Liriodendron tulipifera
(Tulip Tree)

Yellow-Green

July

1200 x 600
(3000 x 1500)

Dark Green turns Yellow in Autumn. Easier way of identification is by the dent at the end of the leaf rather than a point.

The real joy of this tree is the wonderful green and orange tulip-shaped flowers borne in profusion during mid summer. Unfortunately you will have to wait until the tree is fairly mature but it is well worth it as there is nothing quite like these flowers.

Broadly Columnar shape. Pruning Group 1. Vigorous, upright tree, with deciduous, almost square shaped leaves that turn a brilliant yellow.

M, N, O, P, Q, R, S, T, U, V, W, X, Y, Z

Site design and content copyright ©July 2009. Page structure amended January 2013. Feet changed to inches (cms) July 2015. Completed change from adding a page to mapping and thus changing that page to the desired plant description page and index details, September 2018. Chris Garnons-Williams.

DISCLAIMER: Links to external sites are provided as a courtesy to visitors. Ivydene Horticultural Services are not responsible for the content and/or quality of external web sites linked from this site.  

Tree and Shrub Plant Care

Young plants need extra phosphorus (P the second number on the fertilizer bag) to encourage good root development. Apply recommended amount for each plant per label directions; in the soil at time of planting.
Fertilizers that are high in Nitrogen (N), will promote green leafy growth. Excess nitrogen in the soil can cause excessive vegetative growth on plants at the expense of flower bud development. It is best to avoid fertilizing after July, otherwise it can force lush, vegetative growth that will not have a chance to harden off before the onset of the cold weather in October.

Unless a site is completely exposed, light conditions will change during the day and even during the year. The northern and eastern sides of a house receive the least amount of light, with the northern exposure being the shadiest. The western and southern sides of a house receive the most light and have the hottest exposure due to the intense afternoon sun.
For best plant performance, it is desirable to match the correct plant with the available light conditions. Plants which do not receive sufficient light may become pale in color, have fewer leaves and a "leggy" stretched-out appearance. You can also expect plants to grow slower and have fewer blooms when light is less than required. Plants can also receive too much light. If a shade loving plant is exposed to direct sun, it may wilt and/or cause leaves to be sunburned. Full Sun is defined as exposure to more than 6 hours of continuous, direct sun per day.

Types of tree and shrub pruning include: pinching, thinning, shearing and rejuvenating.

• Pinching is removing the stem tips of a young plant to promote branching. Doing this avoids the need for more severe pruning later on.
• Thinning involves removing whole branches back to the trunk. This may be done to open up the interior of a plant to let more light in and to increase air circulation that can cut down on plant disease. The best way to begin thinning is to begin by removing dead, damaged or diseased wood. Then remove one of each set of 2 crossing branches - remembering to keep the natural vertical or horizontal orientation of the branch structure.
• Shearing is leveling the surface of a shrub using hand or electric shears. This is done to maintain the desired shape of a hedge or topiary.
• Rejuvenating is removal of old branches or the overall reduction of the size of a shrub to restore its original form and size. It is recommended that you do not remove more than one third of a plant at a time. Remember to remove branches from the inside of the plant as well as the outside.
   

A water ring is a mound of compacted soil that is built around the circumference of a planting hole once a shrub/tree has been installed. The water ring helps to direct water to the outer edges of a planting hole, encouraging new roots to grow outward, in search of moisture. The height of the mound of soil will vary from a couple of inches for 10 ltr potted shrubs, to almost a foot for balled and burlapped trees, especially those planted on a slope. Mulching over the ring will help to further conserve moisture and prevent deterioration of the ring itself. Once a plant is established, the water ring may be leveled, but the mulch should continue beneath the plant during each spring and summer.

Water when normal rainfall does not provide the preferred 1 inch (2.5 cms) of moisture most plants prefer per week from March to October. The first two years after a plant is installed, regular watering is important. It is better to water once a week and water deeply using drip irrigation (thoroughly soaking the soil until water has penetrated to a depth of 6 to 7 inches (15-18 cms)), than to water frequently for a few minutes. With container grown plants, apply enough water to allow water to flow through the drainage holes, or preferably put the pot inside a larger pot on pot legs to raise it 1 inch above the bottom of the outside pot with a wick from the bottom of the outer pot up through to the middle of the inner pot and replenish the 1 inch (2.5 cms) depth of water in the outside pot. The outside pot has a hole 2 inches (5 cms) above its base to allow for drainage of excess irrigation water or rain. Water plants early in the day or later in the afternoon to conserve water and cut down on plant stress. Do water early enough so that water has had a chance to dry from plant leaves prior to night fall. This is paramount if you have had fungus problems. Do not wait to water until plants wilt. Although some plants will recover from this, all plants will die if they wilt too much (when they reach the permanent wilting point). Mulches can significantly cool the root zone and conserve moisture.

Waterlogged soil occurs when more water is added to soil than can drain out in a reasonable amount of time. This can be a severe problem where water tables are high or soils are compacted. Lack of air space in waterlogged soil makes it almost impossible for soil to drain. Few plants, except for bog plants, can tolerate these conditions. Drainage can be improved by creating a French Drain (18 inch x 12 inch - 45 x 30 cms - drain lined with Geotextile like Plantex or Weed Control Fabric filled with coarse gravel and the weed control fabric overlaid on the top before mulching the top with 3 inch depth of Bark) in the boggy area and extending this drain alongside an evergreen hedge. The hedge will abstract the water over the whole year. Over-watered plants have the same wilted leaves as under-watered plants. Fungi such as Phytophthora and Pythium affect vascular systems, which cause wilt.

Further details about how soil works is in the Soil Topic.

Clay soil will absorb 40% of its volume in water before it turns from a solid to a liquid. This fact can have a serious effect on your house as subsidence.

A mixture of clay, sand, humus and bacterium is required to make soil with a good soil structure for your plants.

The rain or your watering can provides the method for transportation of nutrients to the roots of your plants. Soil organisms link this recycling of nutrients from the humus to the plant.

Oxygen, Carbon Dioxide and Nitrogen as gas is used and expired by the roots of plants into a soil which has airspace in it in order for those plants to grow.

Understanding the above provides you with an action plan for you to do with your own soil.

A more in-depth explaination of how soil works:-

"Plants are in Control

Most gardeners think of plants as only taking up nutrients through root systems and feeding the leaves. Few realize that a great deal of energy that results from photosynthesis in the leaves is actually used by plants to produce chemicals they secrete through their roots. These secretions are known as exudates. A good analogy is perspiration, a human's exudate.

Root exudates are in the form of carbohydrates (including sugars) and proteins. Amazingly, their presence wakes up, attracts, and grows specific beneficial bacteria and fungi living in the soil that subsist on these exudates and the cellular material sloughed off as the plant's root tips grow. All this secretion of exudates and sloughing off of cells takes place in the rhizosphere, a zone immediately round the roots, extending out about a tenth of an inch, or a couple of millimetres. The rhizosphere, which can look like a jelly or jam under the electron microscope, contains a constantly changing mix of soil organisms, including bacteria, fungi, nematodes, protozoa, and even larger organisms. All this "life" competes for the exudates in the rhizosphere, or its water or mineral content.

At the bottom of the soil food web are bacteria and fungi, which are attracted to and consume plant root exudates. In turn, they attract and are eaten by bigger microbes, specifically nematodes and protozoa who eat bacteria and fungi (primarily for carbon) to fuel their metabolic functions. Anything they don't need is excreted as wastes, which plant roots are readily able to absorb as nutrients. How convenient that this production of plant nutrients takes place right in the rhizosphere, the site of root-nutrient absorption.

At the centre of any viable soil food web are plants. Plants control the food web for their own benefit, an amazing fact that is too little understood and surely not appreciated by gardeners who are constantly interfereing with Nature's system. Studies indicate that individual plants can control the numbers and the different kinds of fungi and bacteria attracted to the rhizosphere by the exudates they produce.

Soil bacteria and fungi are like small bags of fertilizer, retaining in their bodies nitrogen and other nutrients they gain from root exudates and other organic matter. Carrying on the analogy, soil protozoa and nematodes act as "fertilizer spreaders" by releasng the nutrients locked up in the bacteria and fungi "fertilizer bags". The nematodes and protozoa in the soil come along and eat the bacteria and fungi in the rhizosphere. They digest what they need to survive and excrete excess carbon and other nutrients as waste.

The protozoa and nematodes that feasted on the fungi and bacteria attracted by plant exudates are in turn eaten by arthropods such as insects and spiders. Soil arthropods eat each other and themselves are the food of snakes, birds, moles and other animals. Simply put, the soil is one big fast-food restaurant.

Bacteria are so small they need to stick to things, or they will wash away; to attach themselves they produce a slime, the secondary result of which is that individual soil particles are bound together. Fungal hyphae, too, travel through soil particles, sticking to them and binding them together, thread-like, into aggregates.

Worms, together with insect larvae and moles move through the soil in search of food and protection, creating pathways that allow air and water to enter and leave the soil. The soil food web, then, in addition to providing nutrients to roots in the rhizosphere, also helps create soil structure: the activities of its members bind soil particles together even as they provide for the passage of air and water through the soil.

Without this system, most important nutrients would drain from soil. Instead, they are retained in the bodies of soil life. Here is the gardener's truth: when you apply a chemical fertilizer, a tiny bit hits the rhizosphere, where it is absorbed, but most of it continues to drain through soil until it hits the water table. Not so with the nutrients locked up inside soil organisms, a state known as immobilization; these nutrients are eventully released as wastes, or mineralized. And when the plants themselves die and are allowed to decay in situ, the nutrients they retained are again immobilized in the fungi and bacteria that consume them.

Just as important, every member of the soil food web has its place in the soil community. Each, be it on the surface or subsurface, plays a specific role. Elimination of just one group can drastically alter a soil community. Dung from mammals provides nutrients for beetles in the soil. Kill the mammals, or eliminate their habitat or food source, and you wont have so many beetles. It works in reverse as well. A healthy soil food web won't allow one set of members to get so strong as to destroy the web. If there are too many nematodes and protozoa, the bacteria and fungi on which they prey are in trouble and, ultimately, so are the plants in the area.

And there are other benefits. The nets or webs fungi form around roots act as physical barriers to invasion and protect plants from pathogenic fungi and bacteria. Bacteria coat surfaces so thoroughly, there is no room for others to attach themselves. If something impacts these fungi or bacteria and their numbers drop or disappear, the plant can easily be attacked.

Negative impacts on the soil food web

Chemical fertilizers, pesticides, insecticides, and fungicides affect the soil food web, toxic to some members, warding off others, and changing the environment. Important fungal and bacterial relationships don't form when a plant can get free nutrients. When chemically fed, plants bypass the microbial-assisted method of obtaining nutrients, and microbial populations adjust accordingly. Trouble is, you have to keep adding chemical fertilizers and using "-icides", because the right mix and diversity - the very foundation of the soil food web - has been altered.

It makes sense that once the bacteria, fungi, nematodes and protozoa are gone, other members of the soil food web disappear as well. Earthworms, for example, lacking food and irritated by the synthetic nitrates in soluble nitrogen fertilizers, move out. Since they are major shredders of organic material, their absence is a great loss. Soil structure deteriorates, watering can become problematic, pathogens and pests establish themselves and, worst of all, gardening becomes a lot more work than it needs to be.

If the salt-based chemical fertilizers don't kill portions of the soil food web, rototilling (rotovating) will. This gardening rite of spring breaks up fungal hyphae, decimates worms, and rips and crushes arthropods. It destroys soil structure and eventually saps soil of necessary air. Any chain is only as strong as its weakest link: if there is a gap in the soil food web, the system will break down and stop functioning properly.

Gardening with the soil food web is easy, but you must get the life back in your soils. First, however, you have to know something about the soil in which the soil food web operates; second, you need to know what each of the key members of the food web community does. Both these concerns are taken up in the rest of Part 1" of Teaming with Microbes - The Organic Gardener's Guide to the Soil Food Web by Jeff Lowenfels and Wayne Lewis ISBN-13:978-1-60469-113-9 Published 2010.

This book explains in non-technical language how soil works and how you can improve your garden soil to make it suitable for what you plant and hopefully stop you using chemicals to kill this or that, but use your grass cuttings and prunings to mulch your soil - the leaves fall off the trees, the branches fall on the ground, the animals shit and die on the land in old woodlands and that material is then recycled to provide the nutrients for those same trees, rather than being carefully removed and sent to the dump as most people do in their gardens leaving bare soil.

These 2 photos show how deciduous trees have been used to provide shade from the Sun going through the vertical windows into the Restaurant - which is a conservatory - at Wisley in August 2012 (Photos by H. Kavanagh).

STAGE 4C CULTIVATION, POSITION, USE GALLERY

Cultivation Requirements of Plant

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uses of tree/ shrub

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Poisonous Plant

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STAGE 1
GARDEN STYLE INDEX GALLERY

Fragrant Plants adds the use of another of your 5 senses in your garden:-
Sense of Fragrance from Roy Genders

Fragrant Plants:-
Trees and Shrubs with Scented Flowers
1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6

Trees and Shrubs with Scented Leaves
1, 2, 3, 4, 5

Trees and Shrubs with Aromatic Bark
1, 2, 3

Shrubs bearing Scented Flowers for an
Acid Soil
1, 2, 3, 4

Shrubs bearing Scented Flowers for a
Chalky or Limestone Soil
1, 2, 3, 4

Shrubs bearing Scented leaves for a
Sandy Soil
1, 2, 3

Herbaceous Plants with Scented Flowers
1, 2, 3

Herbaceous Plants with Scented Leaves
1, 2, 3

Annual and Biennial Plants with Scented Flowers or Leaves
1, 2

Bulbs and Corms with Scented Flowers
1, 2, 3, 4, 5

Scented Plants of Climbing and Trailing Habit
1, 2, 3

Winter-flowering Plants with Scented Flowers
1, 2

Night-scented Flowering Plants
1, 2

Scented Aquatic Plants
1

Plants with Scented Fruits
1

Plants with Scented Roots
1, 2

Trees and Shrubs with Scented Wood
1

Trees and Shrubs with Scented Gums
1

Scented Cacti and Succulents
1

Plants bearing Flowers or Leaves of Unpleasant Smell
1, 2
 

STAGE 2
INFILL PLANT INDEX GALLERY 3

Fan-trained Shape

From Rhododendrons, boxwood, azaleas, clematis, novelties, bay trees, hardy plants, evergreens : novelties bulbs, cannas novelties, palms, araucarias, ferns, vines, orchids, flowering shrubs, ornamental grasses and trees book, via Wikimedia Commons

Ramblers Scramblers & Twiners by Michael Jefferson-Brown (ISBN 0 - 7153 - 0942 - 0) describes how to choose, plant and nurture over 500 high-performance climbing plants and wall shrubs, so that more can be made of your garden if you think not just laterally on the ground but use the vertical support structures including the house as well.

The Gardener's Illustrated Encyclopedia of Climbers & Wall Shrubs - A Guide to more than 2000 varieties including Roses, Clematis and Fruit Trees by Brian Davis. (ISBN 0-670-82929-3) provides the lists for 'Choosing the right Shrub or Climber' together with Average Height and Spread after 5 years, 10 years and 20 years.