Ivydene Gardens Ivydene Gardens Azalea, Camellia, Rhododendron Gallery:
Site Map

You can select an Azalea, Camellia or Rhododendron by clicking on the Thumbnail to see its Plant Description alongside from the:-

  • Flower Colour
  • Leaf Colour
  • Form
  • Shape
  • Fruit Colour
  • Bed Pictures Comparison Pages from the menu on each page on the right

or clicking on the Botanical Name link from one of the:-

The mail order nursery link to obtain the plant is in the Comments Row of its Plant Description Page.

or you can select an Azalea, Camellia or Rhododendron by clicking on the name of their:-

  • Azalea, Camellia or Rhododendron Description Page

from the 10 PLANTS in the list below:-

Site Map for Plant Description pages

I have transplanted a 6 feet diameter rhododendron in flower from a garden to its neighbouring garden. I dug the hole first outside the drip-line of the trees alongside, inserted a wooden stake at 45 degrees and watered the hole. Using a spade I cut under the rootball of about 15 inches depth and its width to the drip-line before hauling it onto a tarpaulin. I tied the tarpaulin round the rootball and pulled it round. Having planted it, I tied the main trunk to the stake about 18 inches above ground to stop it rocking in the ground if wind became a problem. I soaked the rootball and covered it with a thin layer of grass mowings to keep the moisture in this mass of fibrous root rootball. The flowering then continued. Once a month, I topped up the thin mulch of grass-mowings and watered it as part of the fortnightly maintenance of my client's garden.

Note: The preparation of the hole and of its refilling material needs to be done before digging up the plant. There is about 30 minutes before the bare roots of any plant that you are planting or transplanting starts to suffer drought stress. I could not soak the rootball of the rhododendron before I moved it, since even I cannot lift or drag that extra amount of weight. It is worthwhile inserting any plant into a bucket of water for 15 minutes after lifting it and before planting it to ensure that the rootball has water all the way through it. If the plant is in peaty soil or just bought from a nursery with a peat-based compost mixture, then if any of the peat is dry; when water is applied it runs straight off it as if it was a non-stick pan and only soaking it will persuade some of the water to adhere to its peat surface.

Having purchased plants from Glendoick Gardens I found them to be excellent:-

The nursery of Glendoick Gardens Ltd
(Glendoick, Perth. PH2 7NS, Scotland.
Tel 01738 860205 Fax 01738 860630
Web www.glendoick.com and
email sales@glendoick.com) was started in 1953 by Euan and his son Peter Cox V.M.H. (now the world's leading authority on rhododendrons).

Glendoick Nursery sells Azaleas, Camellias and Rhododendrons, which can be collected from the Nursery or sent by them to you.

Ordering Plants: The nursery sends out plants between 10 October and 1 April ONLY, but orders/reservations may be made at any time. All orders must be received as text: letter, email or fax. Orders are NOT accepted over the telephone. On April 1, all remaining stock is containerized for the Glendoick Garden Centre (Tel 01738 860260 Fax 01738 860735 email gardencentre@glendoick.com) 0.5 miles away, where you can collect them. Glendoick Garden Restaurant (Tel 01738 860265) serves food till 45 mins before closing time.

Minimum Orders:
United Kingdom is £40 (Excluding VAT)
,
European Countries is £100 (excluding VAT),
Other is £200.

Consultancy and Garden Design: Peter, Patricia and Kenneth Cox with Jens Nielsen offer a consultancy service for the planning and design of rhododendron and woodland garden projects. They can also assist in identifying old collections; and in planning garden renovations. Further details by Glendoick Gardens Ltd can be sent from a written request to them.

 

Glendoick Gardens: The woodland gardens - next to the Nursery - feature one of the world's finest collections of rhododendrons and azaleas. The gardens are open between mid-April and Mid-June on Monday-Friday from 10:00 to 16:00 and first and third Sundays in May from 14:00 to 17:00.

Glendoick Nursery is the only United Kingdom nursery to still grow most rhododendrons in the open ground because:-

  • it allows much better and quicker establisment of plants in the garden: container-grown plants are usually supplied in pots which are too small and the resultant plants are pot-bound. The roots cannot break out of the pot shape and establishment is poor. Pot-grown plants generally require more watering when planted and take longer to acclimatize to wind.
  • open ground plants are hardier and suffer less disease - mildew, phytophera etc - than those grown indoors in tunnels etc.
  • some varieties sush as Rhododendron souliei hate to be container-grown.

it allows easier packing and posting, together with cheaper postal charges.

 

Azalea and Rhododendron Cultivation Requirements:

The Expert Advice page on the www.glendoick.com website provides a concise summary of the summary of the salient points about how and what Rhododendrons and Azaleas to grow.

The many Cox books are probably the best source of in depth information about how to grow Rhododendrons and azaleas. But the fundamentals are pretty straightforward and this is a concise summary of the salient points from Glendoick Nursery:-

SITE & SOIL. Soil pH (acidity of soil) is ideally pH 4.5-6. Almost all soil in Scotland is acidic. If it is not, it may have been limed for growing vegetables etc. This is easily remedied by adding a percentage of peat into the soil. One alternative is to use sulphate of ammonia. (you can’t use much of this when plants are in situ as it will burn lvs, so it is best done a few months before planting.)

SOIL PREPARATION. Rhododendrons need an open soil mixture. Very heavy (clay) and very fine particles are not suitable. To render soil more open (i.e containing air pockets) organic matter is added: leafmould is the best. Alternatives are compost (own or bought), composted bark, conifer needles etc. There is no point in spending money on rhododendrons and azalea if you are not prepared to do some soil preparation. Improve the soil in an area much bigger than the rootball so there is room to grow. If drainage is good, then soil preparation need be less than 12” (30cm) deep. You do not need peat: it has no structure, no feed and no mulching value. It is useful as an acidifier and for containers.

CLAY SOIL. If you have heavy clay soil, the best thing to do is make up a bed on top of the clay soil with compost, bark, peat etc and plant into this. This is what we did in the Glendoick Garden Centre Pagoda garden.

DEPTH OF PLANTING. Rhododendrons must not be planted too deep. The rootball should be just below the surface and no more. If you bury the rootball, you will kill the plant.

PLANTING Make sure plant is well-watered before planting. For bare rooted stock, October to early April is the planting time. Container stock can be planted at any time but if planted May-August must be well watered in the first growing season. Soil must be firmed up around the roots but do not stamp on the rootball. This only compacts the soil and buries the plant

CONTAINERS: Evergreen azaleas, yak hybrids and compact hybrids are best subjects for containers. Tender scented varieties can be grown in conservatory and brought in to house in flower. Use ericaceous compost with added perlite. Rhododendrons do not like central heating and will die if kept as house plants whereas Indica Azaleas are of course perfect. Make sure you have good drainage and do not allow compost to get too dry. Feed and repot when plant becomes rootbound. Do not over pot.

SHADE: Rhododendrons will not grow and flower well under trees: the roots will take the moisture and the lack of light will make plants straggly and shy flowering. The worst trees are greedy ones such as Beech and Sycamore. The roots of the tree will reach as far as the dripline (where the branches extend to). So you should be able to look up and see sky. If you can’t, you have a problem. If you live in Scotland, ignore all books/advice which say shade or part shade. Maximum light = maximum number of flowers. Good trees to grow with rhododendrons: Maples, Japanese and others, Cherries, Sorbus, Conifers such as Larch and Spruce, Hawthorn, Eucryphia.

Plant dwarf rhododendrons and evergreen azaleas in full sun in Scotland. Deciduous azaleas, larger hybrids and species can take some shade.

DEADHEADING & PRUNING. This is largely a cosmetic exercise: only a few varieties produce seed at the expense of growth. Rhododendrons and azaleas to not require any regular pruning. All azaleas and small-leaved rhododendrons can be pruned. This is best done immediately after flowering. You can prune most other rhododendrons back to where there is a circle of leaves (and therefore growth buds). Single growth buds can be pinched out in Spring to encourage bushiness.

WHAT CAN I PLANT WITH MY RHODODENDRONS? Anything you like as long as it does not take all the moisture from the roots: so avoid greedy ground covers like heathers, grasses. In the wild rhododendrons grow with other Ericaceous plants such as Enkianthus, Kalmia (USA), Vaccineum, Gaultheria, Pieris, other shrubs such as Berberis, climbers such as Clematis, and perennials such as Aquilegia, Primulas, Meconopsis, Lilies, Rheum, Orchids, etc. For late summer colour, use Hydrangea, Eucryphia, (Sorbus and other berrying plants).

WIND & SHELTER Varieties with large leaves, early growth or which are on the tender side for your climate tender require shelter from wind, particularly from south westerlies and north easterlies. If you have no shelter there are several options. 1. Plant a shelter belt of vigorous trees and shrubs. 2. Use rokolene or similar material to help plants establish. 3. Plant hardy wind-tolerant rhododendron varieties on the windward side and less hardy varieties inside these.

FEEDING Rhododendrons & azaleas do not need much feeding. If they look healthy and flower well, don’t bother. If you are in a hurry or plants look yellow or sparse, you can feed with almost any fertiliser but beware of high nitrogen mixes as they can burn foliage. A small handful (granular) around the roots of each plant in early May and late June should be enough. Don’t fertilise later as it encourages soft growth at the expense of flower buds. You can also use liquid feed. We don’t use sequestrene: it is not required unless there is iron deficiency.

CAN I PROPAGATE MY RHODODENDRONS AND AZALEAS?
Dwarf rhododendrons & evergreen azaleas are quite easily rooted in a propagator. With heat rooting will be quicker. In a cold frame rooting may take up to 6 months or more. Deciduous azaleas, hardy hybrids and species are difficult. Some need to be grafted. Don’t waste time with seed unless it has been control-pollinated, otherwise it will be hybridised.

HARDINESS Measured in our catalogue as H1-5. H1 for frost free/greenhouse, to H5 the hardiest.

H5. Hardy hybrids, some species & dwarfs, yak hybrids and most evergreen and deciduous azaleas. H5 areas tend to be well inland and tend to suffer late (and early Autumn) frosts, so choose most varieties which flower in mid May-June to avoid damage to flowers.

H4 Glendoick, Perth, Dundee, Coastal Fife, Edinburgh etc, not too far from the sea or with plenty of shelter inland: woodland garden, or on slope with good frost drainage. Lots of hybrids and species are H4.

H3. Glendoick in sheltered woodland site. Some protection from trees, or on a south or west wall. May suffer damage in severe winters or bark split from late frosts. Many big leaved species are H3.

H2. Indoors on east coast, fine outdoors in Argyll and similar mild climates. Scented Maddenii species for conservatory/greenhouse.

H1 Indoors (frost free) only. This is for the Vireyas.

 

MOST COMMON RHODODENDRON PROBLEMS

Why has my rhododendron got yellow leaves?

  • drainage is poor: solution: lift plant and improve soil structure (see soil preparation) or move to better drained spot.
  • plant is starved. Apply fertiliser May to Late June. (see under feeding)
  • soil is too alkaline (unlikely in Scotland) apply sulphate of Ammonia and plant with plenty of peat. Water with rain water, not tap water.

Why has it got crinkly leaves?

  • This can be caused by late Spring or early Autumn frosts or sap sucking insects.

I have spots on the leaves. What causes it?

  • mildew: pale spots on upper leaf surface, brown/grey patches underneath: use fungicide. (Any rose fungicide will do: systhane, fungus fighter, roseclear etc.)
  • rust black spots on upper surface, lower surface with orange patches: use fungicide
  • black spots with no patches on leaf undersurface: some varieties eg Mrs GW Leak suffer from this; it is nothing to worry about and is not a disease.

Why does my rhododendron not flower?

  • if flower buds are formed and then turn brown, cause is usually frost. To avoid frosted buds, protect opening buds with fleece or plant later flowering varieties. Esp. azaleas. There is also a disease: bud blast fungus which is characterised by black bristles on the dead buds)
  • if flower buds do not form (flower buds are fatter than growth buds):
  • some varieties, especially species, take many years to flower.
  • if planted in too much shade, will not flower well: move to sunnier spot.
  • fertiliser applied after late June: this encourages leaves, not flowers.

Why has my rhododendron died?

  • drainage/depth of planting: soil too heavy or compacted or rhododendron planted too deep. Dark brown dead roots = phytopthora caused by poor drainage. Some varieties require really sharp drainage. Larger yellow hybrid rhododendrons require particularly good drainage.
  • vine weevils? Examine the stem at ground level. Vine weevils tend to girdle the stem, eating off the bark. They can also eat the roots.
  • honey fungus (roots are full of black bootlaces with white core) comes from old treestumps.
  • the variety may not hardy enough? Check the hardiness rating and look for signs of bark split.

Why have my old rhododendrons reverted to ponticum (wild rhododendron)?

  • This is because prior to 1950 all were grafted onto R. ponticum which sends up numerous suckers. If these are not cut or broken off, the R. ponticum will eventually take over. No Glendoick rhododendrons are or have been grafted onto R. ponticum For the few varieties we graft, rootstocks which throw few suckers are used.

Can I grow rhododendrons without peat?

  • Yes you can, though I would not recommend growing in containers without a percentage of peat added. At Glendoick in our nursery cultivation we use very little peat. We prepare soil by adding a mix of organic matter including composted bark, needles, leaf-mould and topsoil which encourages rhododendrons to produce very healthy root-systems. Peat is an acid, moisture-retentive substance and is cheap. But it is certainly not a requirement for happy, healthy rhododendrons.

 

CHOOSING VARIETIES FOR DIFFERENT PURPOSES

EASY DWARFS: To 2ft Curlew, Crane, Dora Amateis, fastigiatum, Intrifast, calostrotum ssp. keleticum, Patty Bee, Ptarmigan, Ramapo, Scarlet Wonder.

EASY SEMI-DWARFS & 'YAKS': 3-4ft Bruce Brechtbill, Elisabeth Hobbie, Fantastica, Linda, Percy Wiseman, Praecox, Unique.

EARLY-FLOWERING: Nobleanum, dauricum Midwinter, Christmas Cheer. The following have frost-hardy flowers or buds: lapponicum, Ptarmigan, hippophaeoides, Blue Silver, anwheiense.

LATE-FLOWERING: hemsleyanum, Polar Bear, Azaleas: occidentale, nakaharae, Lemon Drop, Sparkler, Racoon.

BEST FOLIAGE: colour & leaf shape: Graziela, roxieanum, (narrow leaves), Elizabeth Red Foliage (red new growth), lepidostylum, campanulatum ssp. aeruginosum, pronum (blue leaves), Ever Red, Wine & Roses, (red leaves) Bluecalypytus (blue leaves)

BEST FOLIAGE: indumentum: bureavii, pachysanthum, rex, Golfer, Ken Janeck, Viking Silver, yakushimanum, falconeri ssp. eximeum.

BEST WHITE: decorum, Crane, Alena, Cunningham's White, Loderi (with shelter), Lucy Lou, Dora Amateis, Ptarmigan, Glendoick® Glacier, Panda (azaleas)

BEST PINK: Christmas Cheer, dendrocharis, orbiculare, Linda, Pintail, Fantastica, Canzonetta (azalea).

BEST YELLOW Dwarf/semi dwarf: Curlew, Chiff Chaff, Patty Bee, Swift, Loch Earn.

BEST YELLOW LARGER: campylocarpum, wardii, Goldkrone, Nancy Evans, luteum, Klondyke, Lemon Drop. (dec. azaleas) Note: larger yellow rhododendrons need perfect drainage. Add grit or coarse bark or plant on top of rather than in heavy soil.

BEST RED: Dopey, Elisabeth Hobbie, Erato, Grace Seabrook or Taurus, Jean Marie de Montague, Vulcan. Evergreen azaleas: Squirrel, Glendoick Crimson, Glendoick Garnet, Racoon.

BEST BLUE-PURPLE dwarf: fastigiatum, calostrotum ssp. keleticum, russatum, augustinii, Night Sky, Penheale Blue.

BEST DEEP PURPLE, Azurro, Glendoick TM Velvet.

BEST ORANGE: citriniflorum Horaeum orange, cinnabarinum Concatenans, Fabia, September Song, Sonata, calendulaceum, Gibraltar (azaleas). The only true orange is in the azaleas.

BEST EXOTIC MULTICOLOUR: Lem’s Cameo, Jingle Bells, Naselle, Many vars of Vireya (indoor) species & hybrids.

SCENTED +/- hardy: decorum, fortunei, glanduliferum, hemsleyanum, Loderi, Tinkerbird, Polar Bear. Deciduous azaleas: arborescens, atlanticum, luteum, occidentale, Lemon Drop, Exquisita, Irene Koster, Rosata. Mild gardens or conservatory: edgeworthii, formosum, 'Lady Alice Fitzwilliam'.

NEUTRAL OR SLIGHTLY ALKALINE SOIL: decorum, hirsutum, rubiginosum, vernicosum, Cunningham's White.

COLD/EXPOSED SITES, Cunninghams's White, Fastuosum Flore Pleno, Gomer Waterer, Azurro, Goldflimmer. Hardy deciduous azaleas such as exbury hybrids.

In this economic climate of 2006-2013, I can fully understand why mail-order nurseries throughout the world are unwilling to receive free advertising of their plants through the sharing of photos and growing details to the home-owner, but being an idiot:-

I am requesting since January 2007 the donation of the following colour photographs of plants for display in this section:-

  • Flower - to show the shape and colour of the whole flower.
  • Foliage - to show the shape of the leaf and its colour. If its colour changes in the year, then a picture of each changed colour.
  • Form - to show the natural shape/growth habit of the whole plant. If the plant is deciduous, then one with foliage and one without.
  • Fruit - to show the shape and colour of the whole fruit/nut/seed produced after it has flowered.
  • Flower Bed - to show the overall effect of a group of plants together, preferably with the names of each of the plants displayed.

Each main photograph will be displayed in a 150 x 150 pixels graphic item. Each thumbnail photograph will be displayed in 50 x 50 pixels graphic item. Freeway allocates 72 pixels per inch. The photographs require to be in JPEG Format and send to Chris Garnons-Williams at 1 Eastmoor Farm Cottages, Moor Street, Rainham, Kent, ME8 8QE England.

Please give the Latin name of the plant and your contact details (It would be preferable that it is either your website or email address rather than your phone number). These will then appear with the relevant photograph. If you happen to be a Nursery, then this link could provide a means for people getting that plant; that they require.

 

Topic
Case Studies
Companion Planting
Garden Construction
Garden Design
Garden Maintenance
Glossary
Home
Library
Offbeat Glossary
Plants
Soil
Tool Shed
Useful Data

Topic - Plant Photo Galleries
Aquatic
Bamboo
Bedding
Bulb
Climber
Colour Wheel
Conifer
Deciduous Shrub
Deciduous Tree
Evergreen Perennial
Evergreen Shrub
Evergreen Tree
Fern
Grass
Hedging
Herbaceous Perennial
Herb
Odds and Sods

Rhododendron*

Rose
Soft Fruit
Top Fruit
Vegetable
Wild Flower

Topic - Wildlife on Plant Photo Gallery
Butterfly

 

AZALEA, CAMELLIA AND RHODODENDRON GALLERY PAGES
Site Map of pages with content (o) *

Introduction

FLOWER COLOUR
(o)2 or More Colours
Orange
(o)Other Colours
(o)Pink
(o)Red
(o)White
(o)Yellow

LEAF COLOUR
Black
Blue
Brown
Bronze
(o)Green
Grey
Purple
Red
Silver
Variegated White
Variegated Yellow
White
Yellow
Autumn Colour
4 Season Colour

FORM
(o)Mat-forming
Prostrate
(o)Mound-forming
(o)Spreading
Clump-forming
(o)Upright
Climbing
Arching

SHAPE
Columnar
Oval
(o)Rounded
Flattened Spherical
Narrow Conical
Broad Conical
Egg-shaped
Broad Ovoid
Narrow Vase-shaped
Fan-shaped
Broad Fan-shaped
Narrow Weeping
Broad Weeping

FRUIT COLOUR
Fruit

BED PICTURES
Garden

Azalea, Camellia or Rhododendron INDEX link to Plant Description Page

Flower Colour

Flower

Flowering Months

Height x Spread in inches (cms)
(1 inch = 2.5 cms,
12 inches = 1 foot = 30 cms,
24 inches = 2 feet)

Foliage

Azalea indicum 'Macrantha Pink'

Deep Pink

cazaleaflotmacranthapink

May, June

72 x 72
(180 x 180)

cazaleafoltmacranthapink

Azalea viscosum

White with Pinkish-tinge

azaleaflotviscosum

July, August

60 x 60
(150 x 150)

azaleafoltviscosum

Camellia japonica

Red

camelliajaponicaflott

April

336 x 300 (840 x 750)

cameliajaponicafolt9

Rhododendron 'Blue Peter'

Light Lavender

crhododendronflotbluepeter

June

60 x 72
(150 x 180)

crhododendronfoltbluepeter

Rhododendron 'Elizabeth'

Red

crhododendronflotelizabeth

April, May

48 x 48
(120 x 120)

RhodoElizabeth

Rhododendron macabeanum

Yellow

rhododendronflotmacabeanum

March, April

120 x 120 (300 x 300)

rhododendronfoltmacabeanum

Rhododendron 'Peace'

Creamy-White

rhododendronflotpeace

April

36 x 36
(90 x 90)

rhododendronfoltpeace

Rhododendron 'Pink Pearl'

Soft Pink

rhododendronflotpinkpearl

May, June

72 x 72
(180 x 180)

rhododendronfoltpinkpearl

Rhododendron 'Sappho'

White

rhododendronflotsappho

June

84 x 84
(210 x 210)

rhododendronfoltsappho

Rhododendron yakushimanum

White

rhododendronflotyakushimanum

May, June

36 x 36
(90 x 90)

rhododendronfoltyakushimanum

 

THE 2 EUREKA EFFECT PAGES FOR UNDERSTANDING SOIL AND HOW PLANTS INTERACT WITH IT OUT OF 15,000:-


Explanation of Structure of this Website with User Guidelines Page for those photo galleries with Photos
(of either ones I have taken myself or others which have been loaned only for use on this website from external sources)

 

or

 

when I do not have my own or ones from mail-order nursery photos , then from March 2016, if you want to start from the uppermost design levels through to your choice of cultivated and wildflower plants to change your Plant Selection Process then use the following galleries:-

  • Create and input all plants known by Amateur Gardening inserted into their Sanders' Encyclopaedia from their edition published in 1960 (originally published by them in 1895) into these
    • Stage 1 - Garden Style Index Gallery,
      then
    • Stage 2 - Infill Plants Index Gallery being the only gallery from these 7 with photos (from Wikimedia Commons) ,
      then
    • Stage 3 - All Plants Index Gallery with each plant species in its own Plant Type Page followed by choice from Stage 4a, 4b, 4c and/or 4d REMEMBERING THE CONSTRAINTS ON THE SELECTION FROM THE CHOICES MADE IN STAGES 1 AND 2
    • Stage 4a - 12 Bloom Colours per Month Index Gallery,
    • Stage 4b - 12 Foliage Colours per Month Index Gallery with
    • Stage 4c - Cultivation, Position, Use Index Gallery and
    • Stage 4d - Shape, Form Index Gallery
    • Unfortunately, if you want to have 100's of choices on selection of plants from 1000's of 1200 pixels wide by up to 16,300 pixels in length webpages, which you can jump to from almost any of the pages in these 7 galleries above, you have to put up with those links to those choices being on
      • the left topic menu table,
      • the header of the middle data table and on
      • the page/index menu table on the right of every page of those galleries.

Ivydene Horticultural Services logo with I design, construct and maintain private gardens. I also advise and teach you in your own garden. 01634 389677

 

Site design and content copyright ©January 2007. Page structure amended November 2012. Index structure changed and links from thumbnail to another new page changed from adding that new page to changing page to that new page November 2015. Chris Garnons-Williams.

DISCLAIMER: Links to external sites are provided as a courtesy to visitors. Ivydene Horticultural Services are not responsible for the content and/or quality of external web sites linked from this site.  

 

I am requesting since January 2007 the donation of the following colour photographs of plants for display in this section:-

  • Flower - to show the shape and colour of the whole flower.
  • Foliage - to show the shape of the leaf and its colour. If its colour changes in the year, then a picture of each changed colour.
  • Form - to show the natural shape/growth habit of the whole plant. If the plant is deciduous, then one with foliage and one without.
  • Fruit - to show the shape and colour of the whole fruit/nut/seed produced after it has flowered.
  • Flower Bed - to show the overall effect of a group of plants together, preferably with the names of each of the plants displayed.

Each main photograph will be displayed in a 150 x 150 pixels graphic item. Each thumbnail photograph will be displayed in 50 x 50 pixels graphic item. Freeway allocates 72 pixels per inch. The photographs require to be in JPEG Format and send to Chris Garnons-Williams at 1 Eastmoor Farm Cottages, Moor Street, Rainham, Kent, ME8 8QE England.

Please give the Latin name of the plant and your contact details (It would be preferable that it is either your website or email address rather than your phone number). These will then appear with the relevant photograph. If you happen to be a Nursery, then this link could provide a means for people getting that plant; that they require.

item6 item6 item13 item13 item3 item3 item14 item14 item8 item8 item21 item21 item1 item1 item15 item15 item7 item7 item16 item16 item11 item11 item12 item12 item9 item9 item17 item17 item4 item4 item18 item18 item5 item5 item20 item20 item10 item10 item19 item19