Ivydene Gardens Infill3 Plants Index Gallery:
Indoor Bulbs flowering in December

Topic
Case Studies
Companion Planting
Garden Construction
Garden Design
Garden Maintenance
Glossary
Home
Library
Offbeat Glossary
Plants
Soil
Tool Shed
Useful Data

Topic - Plant Photo Galleries
Aquatic
Bamboo
Bedding
Bulb
Climber

 

Colour Wheels with number of colours
All Flowers 53

All Flowers per Month 12

All Bee-Pollinated Flowers per Month 12
...Index

All Foliage 212
All Spring Foliage 212

All Summer Foliage 212
All Autumn Foliage 212
All Winter Foliage 212
Rock Plant Flowers 53

 

Your chosen Garden Style then changes your Plant Selection Process

Garden Style
...Infill3 Plants *
...12 Bloom Colours per Month Index
...
12 Foliage Colours per Month Index
...All Plants Index
...Cultivation, Position, Use Index
...Shape, Form
Index

 

Conifer
Deciduous Shrub
Deciduous Tree
Evergreen Perennial
Evergreen Shrub
Evergreen Tree
Fern
Grass
Hedging
Herbaceous Perennial
Herb
Odds and Sods

Rhododendron
Rose
Soft Fruit
Top Fruit
Vegetable

Wild Flower

Topic - Wildlife on Plant Photo Gallery
Butterfly

 

Cultivation Requirements of Plant

Outdoor / Garden Cultivation

1

Indoor / House Cultivation

 

Cool Greenhouse (and Alpine House) Cultivation with artificial heating in the Winter

1

Conservatory Cultivation with heating throughout the year

1

Stovehouse Cultivation with heating throughout the year for Tropical Plants

1

 

Sun Aspect

Full Sun

1

Part Shade

1

Full Shade

1

 

Soil Type

Any Soil

1

Chalky Soil

1

Clay Soil

1

Lime-Free Soil

 

Peaty Soil

1

Sandy Soil

1

Acid Soil

1

Alkaline Soil

1

Badly-drained Soil

 

 

Soil Moisture

Dry

1

Moist

1

Wet

1

 

Position for Plant

Back of Shady Border

 

Back of Shrub Border

1

Bedding

1

Bog Garden

 

Coastal Conditions / Seaside

1

Container in Garden

1

Front of Border

1

Ground Cover 0-24 inches (0-60 cms)

1

Ground Cover 24-72 inches (60-180 cms)

1

Ground Cover Over 72 inches (180 cms)

 

Hanging Basket

 

Hedge

1

Hedge - Thorny

 

Pollution Barrier

 

Pond

 

Pot in House, Greenhouse, Conservatory or Stovehouse

1

Raised Bed

 

Rest of Border

1

Rock Garden

1

Scree Bed

1

Speciman on Lawn

 

Sunny Border

1

Tree for Lawn

 

Tree for Small Garden

1

Wildflower

1

Windbreak

 

Woodland

1

 

Use of Plant

Pollen or nectar for Bees

1

Hosts to Butterflies

1

Encouraging birds / wildlife, providing food and shelter

1

Bee-Pollinated plants for Hay Fever Sufferers

1

Berries / Fruit

 

Dry Site in Full Sun

1

Dry Shade

 

Filtering noise

 

Flower Arrange-ments

 

Fragrant Flower

1

Language of Flowers

 

Low maintenance

1

Moist Shade

 

Moist and swampy Sites

 

Nitrogen fixing plants

 

Not Fragrant Flower

1

Rabbit-Resistant

 

Speciman Plant

1

Thornless

 

Tolerant of Poor Soil

1

 

Plant Foliage

Aromatic Foliage

 

Autumn Foliage

 

Finely Cut Leaves

1

Large Leaves

 

Yellow Variegated Foliage

1

White Variegated Foliage

1

Red / Purple Variegated Foliage

 

Silver, Grey and Glaucous Foliage

1

Sword-shaped Leaves

 

 

 

Flower Shape

Number of Flower Petals

Petal-less
 

1

1 Petal

 

2 Petals

 

3 Petals
 

1

4 Petals
 

1

5 Petals
 

1

Above 5
 

1

 

Flower Shape - Simple

Stars
 

1

Bowls
 

 

Cups and Saucers
 

1

Globes
 

 

Goblets and Chalices
 

 

Trumpets
 

1

Funnels
 

1

Bells
 

1

Thimbles
 

 

Urns
 

 

Salverform

 

 

Flower Shape - Elaborated

Tubes, Lips and Straps
 

 

Slippers, Spurs and Lockets
 

 

Hats, Hoods and Helmets
 

 

Standards, Wings and Keels
 

 

Discs and Florets
 

 

Pin-Cushions
 

 

Tufts
 

 

Cushion
 

 

Umbel
 

1

Buttons
 

 

Pompoms
 

 

 

Natural Arrangements

Bunches, Posies, Sprays
 

1

Columns, Spikes and Spires
 

 

Whorls, Tiers and Candelabra
 

1

Plumes and Tails
 

 

Chains and Tassels
 

1

Clouds, Garlands and Cascades
 

 

Spheres, Domes and Plates
 

 

 

Shrub, Tree Shape

Columnar
 

1

Oval
 

1

Rounded or Spherical
 

 

Flattened Spherical
 

1

Narrow Conical / Narrow Pyramidal
 

1

Broad Conical / Broad Pyramidal
 

1

Ovoid /
Egg-Shaped
 

 

Broad Ovoid
 

 

Narrow Vase-shaped / Inverted Ovoid
 

 

Fan-Shaped /Vase-Shaped
 

 

Broad Fan-Shaped / Broad Vase-Shaped
 

 

Narrow Weeping
 

 

Broad Weeping
 

 

Palm

 

 

Conifer Cone

1

 

Form

Arching

1

Climbing

 

Clump-Forming

1

Mat-Forming

 

Mound-Forming

1

Prostrate

1

Spreading

1

Stemless

 

Upright

1

 

Poisonous Plant

1

 

INFILL3 PLANTS INDEX GALLERY PAGES

Links in Table below are available in Shrub Tree Shape Index Gallery


Site Map

Website Structure Explanation and User Guidelines

Click on number in cells below to jump to that page detailing those cultivated plants with that plant type and their botanical name starts with that letter.

Click on or underlined text to jump to page comparing flower thumbnails of that blue colour.
is Red, Pink, Purple and is Unusual or Other Flower Colour.

Plant Type
with links to Other Plant Photo Galleries

A
B
C

D
E
F

G
H
I

J
K
L

M
N
O

P
Q
R

S
T
U

V
W
X

Y
Z

Alpine in Evergreen Perennial, Herbaceous Perennial and Rock Garden

 

1

 

 

1

 

 

1

 

Aquatic

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Annual/ Biennial

1

 

 

1

 

 

 

 

 

Bamboo

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bedding and RHS Mixed Border Beds



















Bicolour

Other Flower Colours

White / Colour Bicolour

Bulb and
Allium / Anemone, Colchicum / Crocus, Dahlia, Gladiolus, Narcissus, Tulip





 

 



 



 



1



Climber



 





 









Conifer

1

1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Deciduous Shrub

1

 

 

 



 







Deciduous Tree

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Evergreen Perennial

1

 

 

 



 







Evergreen Shrub , Semi-Evergreen Shrub and Heather

1

 

 

 



 







Evergreen Tree

1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fern

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Grass

 

 

 

1

 

 

 

 

 

Herbaceous Perennial and RHS Mixed Border Beds



 

 

1



 







Herb

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Odds and Sods

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Rhododendron, Azalea, Camellia

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Rose

 

 





 









Soft Fruit

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sub-Shrub

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Top Fruit

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Vegetable

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Wildflower
with
Plants used by Egg, Caterpillar, Chrysalis and Butterflies in the UK



















Shrub and Small Tree

Botanical Names Page

Common Names Page

Companion Planting

A

B

C

D

E

F

G

H

I

J

K

L

M

N

O

P

Q

R

S

T

UV

W

XYZ

Pest Control by Companion Planting

The following 2 books (written by Louise Riotte 1909-1998 who was one of North America's most beloved gardeners) provide a wealth of extra information telling you what plants to put together for what purpose and how it does it (The only wasted information on each page is the page number!!!):-

Carrots love Tomatoes: Secrets of Companion Planting for Successful Gardening by Louise Riotte Second Edition (Storey Publishing 1998) ISBN-13: 978-1-58017-027-7

Roses love Garlic: Companion Planting and other Secrets of Flowers by Loiuse Riotte Second Edition (Storey Publishing 1998)
ISBN 1-58017-028-5

Ivydene Gardens Infill3 Plants Index Gallery:
Indoor Bulbs flowering in December

Botanical Plant Name

with link to
UK or
European Union
mail-order supplier for you to contact to buy this plant

Flower Colour
and Background Colour nearest to main petal colour from 212 foliage colours /

followed by
Sun Aspect:- Full Sun,
Part Shade, Full Shade

with link to external website for photo/data

Flowering Months in UK

with link to
USA or
Canada
mail-order supplier

Height with Spacings or Width (W) in inches (cms)

1 inch =
2.5 cms
12 inches = 30 cms
40 inches = 100 cms

Foliage Colour
and Background Colour nearest to middle-aged leaf colour from 212 foliage colours /

followed by
Soil Moisture:-
Dry,
Moist,
Wet

with link to Australia or New Zealand mail-order supplier

Plant Type is:-

A for Aquatic
Ann for Annual / Biennial
Ba for Bamboo
Bu for Bulb
Cl for Climber
Co for Conifer
F for Fern
G for Grass
H for Herb
P for Perennial
Rh for Rhodo-dendron, Azalea, Camellia
Ro for Rose
Sh for Shrub
So for Soft Fruit
To for Top Fruit
Tr for Tree
V for Vegetable
W for Wildflower

followed by:-
E for Evergreen,
D for Deciduous,
H for Herbaceous,
Alpine for being an Alpine as well as being 1 of above Plant Type /

 
Acid for Acidic,
Alk for Alkaline,
Any for AnySoil
 

with link to
ALL PLANTS Index Gallery page

Cultivation Details

Varieties

Plant Photos

It is sad to reflect that in England so few gardens open to the public label their plants or label them so that the label is visible when that plant is in flower, so that visitors can identify; and then later locate and purchase that plant.

Few mail-order nurseries provide the detail as shown in my rose or heather galleries.

If you want to sell a product, it is best to display it. When I sold my Transit van, I removed its signage, cleaned it and took photos of the inside and outside before putting them onto an advert in Autotrader amongst more than 2000 other Transit vans - it was sold in 20 minutes.

If mail-order nurseries could put photos to the same complexity from start of the year to its end with the different foliage colours and stages of flowering on Wikimedia Commons, then the world could view the plant before buying it, and idiots like me would have valid material to work with.

I have been in the trade (until ill health forced my Sole Trader retirement in 2013) working in designing, constructing and maintaining private gardens for decades and since 2005 when this site was started, I have asked any nursery in the world to supply photos. R.V. Roger in Yorkshire allowed me to use his photos from his website in 2007 and when I got a camera to spend 5 days in July 2014 at my expense taking photos of his roses growing in his nursery field, whilst his staff was propagating them. I gave him a copy of those photos.

Convallaria majalis (Lily of the Valley)

 

 

 

 

 

Pot in October and November a good clump or hal-a-dozen plump single crowns in a 6 inch (15 cms) pot, using either loam, leaf-mould and well-rotted manure or John Innes compost for filling. Make sure that the pot is well drained. Keep the pot in the cool dark until January and then bring it into moderate heat.

Water very sparingly, or when the compost needs it, until growth starts, and then water liberally.

Flowering. Under normal room conditions, and by planting in October and November, flowering will be in January and February.

Forcing. Lily of the Valley can be flowered almost continually throughout the year. For this purpose prepared crowns are necessary, which should be placed at 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cms) apart in either sand, sawdust or almost any material which will hold moisture. Before planting, the ends of the roots must be lightly trimmed. In planting, the tips of the buds must be kept just above the soil. After planting, the crowns should be well watered, making sure that the soil is thoroughly moist, and then kept in a dark, humid receptacle, such as a closed, ventilated box, for about 10 days at 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius). After 10 days they can be gradually exposed to light, and should flower in 2 weeks from that time. Once forced, crowns are of no further use.

Majalis
Single white. 6 inches (15 cms). It does contain poison.

majalis Fortin's Giant
Double white.

convallariacflosmajaliswikimediacommons

Convallaria majalis, Ruscaceae, Lily of the Valley, inflorescence; Karlsruhe, Germany. The fresh aerial parts of the blooming plant are used in homeopathy as remedy: Convallaria majalis (Conv.). By H. Zell via Wikimedia Commons.

Cyclamen persicum (Persian cyclamen)

The Cyclamen Society will provide further information.

 

 

 

 

 

These Cyclamen can be grown from seed sown between August and November and then potted on. The principal seeding time is between October and November. From sowing till flowering time takes approximately 15-18 months. However, while to raise Cyclamen persicum from seed may be possible in the house, it is a long and exacting task and, therefore, not recommended. The simplest and most convenient way is to buy the potted plant either for growing-on or already in flower. It is not easily bought as a corm, and the best results are had from a seedling plant.

Water. Watering is best carried out by standing the pot in a saucer, preferably of the earthenware type, and feeding the water into the saucer. If necessary, this should be done daily. Alternately, the pot may be stood upon a block of wood which is kept continually moist by being itself immersed in water.

Fertiliser. When the first flower buds are seen, water in every 3-4 weeks a complete fertiliser. This will help the robustness and quality of the plant.

Temperature. Cyclamen do not want excessive heat. More failures are caused by hot conditions than by any other reason(unless it be of bad watering). A temerature of from 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius) to 55 degrees Fahrenheit (13 degrees Celsius) is satisfactory, and provided sufficient humidity is created it is possible to have good results at temperatures varying from 45 degrees Fahrenheit (7 degrees Celsius) to 65 degrees Fahrenheit (18 degrees Celsius).

Position. An east window, in full light, but not exposed to the glare or heat of the sun.

Giant White
Large flowers, very free-flowering.

Mont Blanc
Pure White.

Perle Von Zehlendorf
Salmon.

Pink Pearl
Light Pink.

Vuurbaak
Red

cyclamencflospersicumwikimediacommons

Cyclamen persicum. By ‪Olei via Wikimedia Commons.

 

 

North - Knows the points of the Compass.

 

 

 

 

North-facing

 

 

West - Woman

West-facing

House

East-facing

East - Every

 

 

South-facing

 

 

 

 

South - Silly

 

 

 

 

 

Flowering. They can be in flower from mid-November until March, depending upon the stage at which they are bought and the care with which they are tended.

After flowering water should gradually be decreased and the corms kept in a cool, well-lighted place, but shielded from the full sun. So many corms are killed at this stage by allowing them to die of thirst. If allowed to dry out, the flower and leaf formation are severely checked or killed outright. They will give better results if allowed to remain in the same pots for up to 4 years or more. During the resting period enough humidity can be created by standing the pots on a tray of pebbles and water. At this time the corms can have plenty of fresh air, but not droughts. Thus it will be possible to have them in flower year after year.

 

 

Hyacinths - prepared (Dutch hyacinth, Hyacinthus orientalis)

All parts of hyacinths, if ingested cause stomach upset and gloves should be worn when handling the bulbs as they may aggravate skin allergies. See the profile on harmful plants for more information.

 

 

 

 

 

Pot 2 bulbs up to half their depth in a 6-inch (15 cms) or 3 in an 8-inch (20 cms) non-porous bowl or pan, using bulb fibre as potting medium. After potting, plunge in ashes or keep the pot in a dark cool place until the bulbs are well rooted. They can be brought to the light and warmth.

Water. The bulb fibre should be kept moist at all times so that its consistency is always alive.

Fertilisers. No fertilisers are needed when correctly mixed fibre is used.

Temperature. Room heat is sufficient to bring prepared Hyacinths into early bloom, but they will stand a temperature of 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius) without showing undue signs of being forced.

Position. South window with full light.

Flowering. For pre-Christmas flowers prepared bulbs must be used, and for satisfactory flowering these should be from 17-18 cms as a minimum. For later flowering the same size of bulbs, but unprepared, will give the best flowers. After flowering the bulbs can be rested and planted in the garden.

Prepared varieties:-

Bismarck
Clear violet blue and white

Delft Blue
Blue.

Dr. Leiber
Light blue.

Dr. Streseman
Clear blue.

Jan Bos
Red.

L'Innocence
very tall, White.

Marconi
Cream-pink.

Unprepared Varieties:-

Bismarck
Clear violet blue and white.

City of Haarlem
Pale yellow.

Grand Maitre
Porcelain blue.

King of the Blues
Oxford blue.

King of the Lilacs
Pure lilac.

L'Innocence
White.

Lady Diamond
Pale pink.

Marconi
Cream-pink.

Princess Margaret
Pale powder-pink.

hyacinthuscflosorientalisdelftbluewikimediacommons

Flower beds in park Kolomenskoye (Moscow). Hyacinthus orientalis ‘Delft Blue

Русский: Цветники в Коломенском (Москва). Гиацинт восточный ‘Delft Blue’. By Kor!An (Корзун Андрей) via Wikimedia Commons.

Schizostylis (Kaffir Lily, Viscountess Byng, currently Hesperantha instead of Schizostylis)

 

 

 

 

 

Pot from 4 to 5 tubers into a 5-inch (12.5 cms) pot in March. Compost should be John Innes or equal parts fibrous loam, peat, and 0.25 part fine sand. After potting the pot should be placed in a warm sunny position.

Water liberally after potting and through the summer, but from autumn onwards reduce the water.

Fertiliser. A complete fertiliser occasionally during summer.

Temperature. 55-65 degrees Fahrenheit (13-18 degrees Celsius).

Position. Full light in south window.

coccinea
Spectacular crimson and scarlet globe-shaped flowers. 18 inches (45 cms). October-November.

Mrs Hegarty
Silken pale-pink flowers. October-November.

coccinea Viscountess Byng
Flesh-pink flowers in December and January. Leaves pale olive-green.

schizostyluscfloscoccineamrshegartywikimediacommons

Schizostylus coccinea 'Mrs Hegarty'. By Wouter Hagens via Wikimedia Commons.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

From Explanation in Indoor Bulb Growing by Edward Pearson. Published by Purnell & Sons, Ltd in 1953:-

More often than not introductions are never read. It is only quite recently that I have found their worth and realised that little is gained and much lost by skipping this part of a book, which may appear uninteresting and unnecessary, in order to hurry to the pith of the matter. It may well be that I shall be served in the same way.

The purpose of this introduction is to make clear certain of the operations and duties which are only briefly mentioned in the notes. In addition, other information is given which will be of value to the indoor gardener. Thus an attempt is made to satisfy the needs of the beginner so that he will not, at any time, have to pause in his bulb work, whether planting, watering or plunging, in order to ask himself what he should do next. That is the purpose for which these notes were started. But before they were finished another purpose had grown up. This was the hope that in following the simple instructions and by reading through the lists of bulbs that can so easily be grown in the house there would awake in the reader's heart a wish to extend the range of bulbs at present grown in pots and bowls.

Apart from giving details for indoor bulb growing, I feel it necessary to explain quite clearly that the main purpose in compiling these notes is to show that with a little trouble and ingenuity an interesting and delightful sucession of flowers can be raised by the person who has neither greenhouse nor frame, but merely the room or rooms in which he lives. Naturally, a greenhouse or frame will simplify the cultivations needed, but such aids are not a vital factor for success. So then, as I have put the householder first in importance and have pictured him with nothing more than the rooms in which he lives, I have now to assume that such rooms, from late autumn until early spring, are kept heated at temperatures sometimes described as within the comfort region, that is between 50-60 degrees Fahrenheit (10-16 degrees Celcius). For if this is comfort for humans it is also, in the main, comfort for plants. By what means this happy condition is obtained has not troubled me; I have merely assumed its existence. Central heating, gas, coal fires or electricity will obviously all take their share; and while it is no purose of mine to pose as a heating engineer, I have a particular liking for the modern convector fires, which, along with central heating, have the great advantage that they will burn continuously and so avaid the damaging drop in temperature at nights. In addition, convector fires are, room by room, more cheaply fuelled than a radiator system. Gas, for either heat or light, is deadly to most plants; but whether it is particularly so to bulbous plants, I do not know. I would certainly not take the risk of trying to grown any expensive or even moderately delicate kinds in rooms heated or lighted by gas.

I have used the word bulb to describe the varied bulbous plants which are noted later. To be accurate, they are not all bulbs, but corms and tubers as well, or merely rhizomes. For the sake of simplicity rather than botanical accuracy, and so for clarity in this instance, the word bulb must do as an overall name for this group of plants. Yet, because there is some satisfaction in accuracy and knowledge, even when no particular advantage may be gained, it is well that there should be a definition of the various classes of bulbous plants.

A bulb is of 2 kinds:

  • The first is a globular underground stem made up of a number of separate scales tightly compacted one against the other and forming a dense, almost solid body; such as Hyacinths, Tulips, Daffodils, etc.
  • The second differs from the first only in so far as the scalesare not compact but are openly gathered into a spherical form and and more often attached to a basal core; such are Lilies. The stem and flower are formed within the mature bulb.

A tuber is also an underground stem, composed not of scales but of a solid mass of cells capable of storing food with which to supply the eyes when growth starts. The grouping of the eyes varies from variety to variety. A bulb has roots which grow from one place only, while a tuber will send out roots from many parts of its surface. As examples, Eranthis and Begonias are tubers.

A corm is a mixture between the bulb and tuber, having a solid cell structure as with the latter, but sending out roots from one point only as with the former. The eyes in a corm are not so haphazardly distributed as in the tuber, Anemones, Cyclamen, Crocus and Gladioli are corms. The Cyclamen, however, unlike the others mentioned, is a perennial corm, growing new flowers and leaves, etc, each year, while Anemones, Gladioli, etc, propagate by means of offsets grown each year.

Although nobody will deny that all matters of growing and all things connected with the soil require care and patience, ver few persons, when the time comes for them to try their hand, will realise that these requirements are as important in their own case as in the next man's. Patience and care are the virtues which must grace every operation to do with growing, whether of the smallest seed or of a forest tree. These are the qualities which lie in a green hand and are as important as knowledge itself. So long as certain simple facts are learned and the 2 virtues are enjoyed, the grower can be certain of achieving reasonable success. The rules of good husbandry apply as much in the living-room as in the field, and full knowledge will come through experience rather than reading. The house plant, which is constantly under the eye, lends itself to greater interest and study than the plant in the garden. From such study common sense will build up a store of practical knowledge.

A Geranium, a Hyacinth, a Fern and a few Trumpet Daffodils are the plants which come to the mind of the average person when talking of house plants. In fact there are at least 1000 varieties in 1953 which can be successfully grown under normal living-room conditions, or in a sun-porch or window-box. I have chosen to deal only with bulbs because of their greater variety and greater charm. A glance at these 12 Calendar pages will show that throughout most of the year colour and fragrance can fill the house, particularly during the winter months.

The usual month for flowering in the Calendar of Bloom Pages has been given, but, naturally, at the end of each month the flowers do not die and new kinds take their place. In most cases the flowering period overlaps, while, dependent on the time potted, certain bulbs can be flowered in successive months - for instance,

  • Hyacinths, by the use of prepared and unprepared bulbs, from December-March;
  • Cyclamen persicum from November-March; and
  • Lily of the Valley every month of the year, if prepared and retarded crowns are used.

However, it is improbable (and also impractical) that a householder would be eager enough to continue with the same subject in such succession. Once the plant has flowered he is more likely to turn his hand to a fresh type.

Most gardeners have their favourite flowers. This is also true of the indoor gardener. For myself, each season I find it impossible to favour one kind more than another. As each month brings its various flowers, so each month brings a pleasing anticipation and admiration, and when this colourful procession has passed I find it impossible to say which section has been most enjoyed. As much for this reason as for that of my own inadequacy, I have not made any attempt to give rhapsodic and poetical descriptions to the plants covered by these notes. I have been unable to press the claims of one above any other. For, holding the opnion that the average householder grows a very limited range of bulbs, the fact that by reading my suggestions he will extend this range may effect the same result as possibly that of the adjectives which I have avoided. If this should be so, then the grower will at least understand my descriptive inability.

But I cannot miss this chance to chastise many gardeners who will neither grow the hardy Nerines because they think them unhardy nor the autumn-flowering Crocuses and Colchicums because they do not know about them. Their ignorance cannot be forgiven, because each year, around planting time, articles on the autumn-flowering bulbs are written in the gardening papers. But if they not read such papers, then there are many helful catalogues issued each year by nurserymen and bulb importers which will tell the ignorant enough about autumn-flowering bulbs and their culture to make at least a start. What is wanted is a more adventurous approach to such catalogues. Too often only what is well known is grown. As one of the main objects in compiling these notes has been to stir up interest and enterprise within the home, I can see no reason to withold such criticism of the outside gardener. Some of these rarely seen bulbs are the autumn-flowering Crocuses and the Nerines. All these are quite hardy, easy to grow, and of immense value in the fall.

Many confuse the Colchicums with the Autumn Crocuses, but care in the reading of the nurseryman's autumn bulb catalogue will soon clear away such confusion. One or two of the Autumn Crocuses are mentioned later as house plants, others well worth while for the garden are:

  • Karuchorum. A most outstanding variety. Very large flowers of light lavender and white throat. October.
  • Medius. Dark violet with orange stigmas. Mid-October.
  • Niveus. Pure white. November.
  • Speciosus Albus. A most delicate white flower. October.

As a class, the Nerines are often thought to be tender plants. When the right types, such as Bowdeni, are planted they will be found capable of standing up to a severe winter, and in October their flowers will amply repay the little trouble they give.

It is obviously impossible to give illustrations that do justice to all the varieties described in the following notes, but a series of visits to the Royal Horticultural Society Hall during the spring and autumn, when most of them are exhibited, will do far more than either descriptive ability or illustrations to extend the present range of indoor bulbs.

 

BUYING BULBS
The catalogues sent out by reputable nurserymen contain descriptions of the plants and bulbs which they offer. The colour descriptions given are now standardised and based on the colour chart which was prepared and issued by the Royal Horticultural Society between 1939 and 1942. The reason for this standardising was to avoid confusion in colour description. Pink to one grower might well be pale pink to another, or yet some other shade to a third, and so would result in a bulb being thrice catalogued under 3 different descriptions (I was unable to find a colour chart that I could incorporate into my website, so I created my own and used the names of colour from the results of a name competition, but it is not a good colour chart of 212 colours. I wanted it for foliage colours and then for flower colours. Unfortunately when digitising 35 mm slides taken in the 1960s and 1970s during 2007-2011, I discovered that the at least the Green had significantly darkened when compared to a digital photo of the current decade. I also found that I could not rely on the plant labels near each plant in the Royal Horticultural Society garden at Wisley since visitors either removed or moved them around, so now I rely on the veracity of the photos from Wikimedia Commons, since I am unable to either get to use a far better colour chart on my site or get photos of the plants from the mail-order nurseries who grow them). Within the range of this colour chart, the colours indicated are, therefore accurate. But they accurate for bulbs only when grown outdoors. Their introduction to a greenhouse will sometimes alter the colouring, and when brought to flower in a living-room this alteration may be even more marked. This applies particularly to certain varieties of Narcissi, such as John Evelyn and Fortune, where the cups, under room conditions, are far less brilliant than described. With Winter Aconites the possible comparison of those grown indoors with those outdoors will show much of the brilliant yellow has been lost by the former. Nevertheless, such colour changes neither lessen the worth of a bulb for house work nor apply in all cases. To some extent, loss of colour can br partly prevented by giving the maximum amount of light when the plants are flowering.

A most important factor for successful bulb culture is the size and quality of the bulbs used. The large-size bulbs do not necessarily give the best flowers. There is, of course, in the buying of the largest sizes a sense of precautionary insurance, which gives excuse for the extra spending involved. There may also be an element of snobbery in this habit. Undoubdtely the largest bulbs give good-quality flowers, but then so do many of the smaller sizes. In fact some bulbs will give better results in the smaller sizes, such as Anemone Coronaria, while with the Gladioli exhibition blooms can be grown from corms of 8-9 cms in circumference.

When the harvesting is over, bulbs are graded into various sizes, the top 2 sizes being generally set aside for sale and the smaller sizes being replanted. The classifications by which sizes of bulbs and corms are recognised vary according to the type of bulb or corm;-

  • Freesias are graded into firsts, tops, seconds, and spawn;
  • Gladioli, Tulips, Crocuses, etc, are sized in centimetres according to their circumference;
  • while Narcissi sizes are denoted by the number of noses on each bulb. Thus D.N. I impies a bulb with a double nose that is top size, while D.N. II is double-nosed second size, and D.N. III is third size. Single-nosed bulbs are rounds.

For indoor use the following sizes are the best:

  • Freesias. First-size and second-size corms.
  • Crocuses. 7-8cm corms are spring-flowering varieties; 6-7 cms for Crocus species and autumn-flowering varieties
  • Hyacinths. 18-19 cms and 17-18 cms are the best sizes when prepared Hyacinths are to be used for early flowering. When unprepared bulbs are used, a smaller size, such as 16-17 cms, can be planted.
  • Muscari and other miscellaneous bulbs. First size.
  • Scillas. First size.
  • Narcissi and Daffodils. D.N. I and D.N. II.
  • Narcissis and Daffodils - Miniatures. 6-7 cms and 5-6 cms.
  • Tulips. 11-12 cms.

in some cases 2 sizes have been given, and where this is so it is probable that the best flowers will grow from the greater size of bulb, but the smaller size will give satisfactory results. As the price increase with the size of the bulb, the choice of larger or smaller must be left to the pocket. There is an exception to these sizes in the case of certain varieties within the same family. For instance, some varieties of Tulips, such as doubles, will flower well from seedling sizes, while in Narcissi the varieties Actaea Ornatus, Firetail, Peeping Tom and February Gold make a smaller top-size bulb than other varieties.

When a Hyacinth bulb is reffred to as "prepared", it means that after harvesting it is subjected to some weeks of heat treatment. The effect of such heating before forcing is to induce the bulb to flower considerably earlier than if it is merely lifted and then forced. The opposite treatment is given to Narcissi, Tulips and Lily of the Valley, which are cold-stored before being forced for early flowering. Conversely, by hot-air treatment, such bulbs as last mentioned can be retarded so that they will flower long after the normal outdoor season. It is quite true that with such treatment a Narcissus can be had in flower during every month of the year, although there seems little benefit thus gained.

After the heat treatment the Hyacinth should be planted as soon as possible. But practically all Hyacinths are imported into this country to shops and nurserymen, and this means that at the very best there is bound to be some long time-lag between preparation and potting. The longer the delay and the more the bulbs are exposed to warm conditions, the less the effect of the preparation and so the later the bulb will flower. Generally, the imports are made at the end of September, when ordering and potting for early flowering should be done. If early flowers are wanted, there is little point in buying prepared Hyacinths after mid-October; unprepared bulbs will be just as satisfactory and cheaper, even if some were prepared are still obtainable.

 

PLANTING
When buying bulbs to flower a few weeks after purchase, one buys, in asense, merely an immature flower. All that then is required is to provide reasonable supplies of water, warmth and light. Even without one of this trio a bulb will go a very long way towards flowering. In fact the greater part of the flower-producing is done in the year before. By the time that the leaves have died down and the bulb has been allowed to ripen the flower bud and stem have been formed. From then on the surrounding scales protect and nourish the stem, leaves and flowers, and provide sufficient food for roots to be sent out. A bulb left lying in the open will grow roots to reach and penetrate the soil and will also put out a length of leaves. It follows that there is very little needed to complete the final stage of flowering. Therefore the material in which a bulb is planted for bulb culture is not, from the flower's point of view, of any particular importance. Many will flower successfully in such media as moss, peat, pebbles, ordinary soil, sawdust, or water alone; so that a bulb will throw up leaves and will flower when planted in surroundings from which it cannot derive all, at least, of the nutrients usually supposed essential to a plant's wellbeing. We cannot, then, alter its ability to flower by poor soil conditions, but we can, at least, affect the quality of the flowers and leaves and, in so doing, maintain or improve the quality of the bulb. too often bulbs and corms are wastefully discarded after their first flowering. This is, save in certain cases, quite unnecessary extravagance. In the notes which follow, details and directions have been given concerning this side of bulb-growing.

The best-quality flowers can be got by providing the bulbs from planting time with the best possible conditions - namely:

  • a potting mixture which is retentive of moisture and affords some supply of nutrients;
  • the right temperature,or, if not possible, then at least a temperature which is not too hot and which does not vary constantly from one extreme to another;
  • and, lastly, adequate water and light.

The ideal potting mixture should come up to the following standards:

  • It should be weed-free.
  • It should be disease-free and should not be taken from ground in which Narcissi, Tulips, MichaelDaisies or Potatoes have been grown for at least 4 years.
  • It should retain moisture over reasonable periods without compaction.
  • It should be sufficiently friable to allow for quick and easy root formation. (This is most important because quick, strong root development before leaf growth is an essential to good results.
  • It should contain at least some of the major elements as nutrients for the bulb's development - e.g nitrogen, phosphates and potash - which will be turned into plant foods by the action of regular watering. There is as yet no decisive evidence as to a bulb's exact needs. Nevertheless, even at the risk of some wastage, it seems better to play safe and give a supply of these three.

For general house work, particularly when there is no garden, the simplest, cleanest potting medium for Narcissi, Tulips, Crocuses, Lily of the Valley and Hyacinths is the standardised bulb fibre which is obtainable from horticultural sundriesmen. It is composed of shredded peat, charcoal, some sand and so-called oyster shell. The peat retains moisture, the charcoal counteracts any acidity from the peat, and the shell is reputed to keep the peat open and friable. When bulb fibre is used it is best to soak it thoroughly for about 24 hours before planting.

If the grower prefers to make up his own potting medium instead of buying bulb fibre, the recipes are given for such mixtures in the notes. Certain bulbs will, however, give better results if potted into John Innes Compost No. 2 and not bulb fibre. This compost is made up from the following materials:

  • 2 parts loam,
  • 1 part peat,
  • 1 part sand.

These are sterilised, then mixed, and to them is added both lime and superphosphate, making a good potting medium for bulbs, although the mixture is specifically designed for plants (I think that the addition of Seaweed meal would then also provide the correct balance of trace elements).

Here is a list of those which will succeed best in either the fibre or the John Innes Compost respectively:

BULB FIBRE

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Crocuses

Chionodoxa

Fritillaria meleagris

Galanthus

Hyacinths

Narcissi and Daffodils

Tulips

 

 

JOHN INNES POTTING COMPOST

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Achimenes

Agapanthus

Allium

Amaryllis

Brodiaea

Calla

Colchicum

Convallaria

Crinum

Cyclamen persicum

Eranthis

Freesias

Gladiolus colvillei

Iris reticulata

Lachenalias

Ixias

Muscari

Nerine

Ornithogalum

Puschkinia

Scilla

Sparaxis

Sternbergia lutea

Vallota

 

 

 

 

As these are general and important observations which are relevant not only to one but to a great many classes of bulbs, the exact details for planting - such as the time of year, depth, etc (You would not believe the importance of the enveloping word "etc" as I tell my 68 year old friend who is a girl - She is very independently minded, so not allowing me to call her my girlfriend - of my regard for her by saying that it is because of her charm, wit and something else. Who said that romance has finally fled the scene!) - have been included in the notes. Under the heading of planting some information is also necessary about the types of bowls and pots used, but their shape and colour, and to some extent their size, must naturally rest with the grower, who should, when using a coloured bowl, remember the colour of the flowers which will eventually bloom in that particular bowl. The points for a beginner are:

  • If bulb fibre is used, then it is better to have a non-porous bowl, such as the plastic bowls which are made in a variety of colours and sizes, some pleasing and some abominable (if fibre is used in a porous vessel of unglazed earthenware, such as a flower-pot, it tends to dry out quickly, and so calls for greater attention in watering); and
  • if some other type of potting mixture is used it is essential to provide adequate drainage.

Whatever the bowl - so long as the soil is not bulb fibre - it is best to have drainage holes at the base; if it has not, then adequate crocking (pieces of broken floer-pots), pebbles or stones should be put at the bottom of the container, through which surplus water can drain. If such crocking is not provided, the soil will become waterlogged - a state extremely difficult to cure and which, more often than not, leads to the base of the bulb becoming rotten. In short, when there is likelihood of the potting medium rapidly drying out a non-porous vessel should be used; but when there is a possibility of waterlogging, then a porous vessel with drainage facilities must be used.

In planting up bowls devote 1 variety of a particular kind to 1 bowl, because mixtures will flower at different times and heights. For a guiding principle, as many bulbs as possible should be planted in the receptacle, providing the bulbs do not touch each other, each bulb being firmly seated and with its snout sticking out from the compost. After planting, 0.5 inch (1.25 cms) must be left between the top of the soil and the top of the bowl or pot so as to allow room for watering and to prevent water from spilling over.

Recommendations made later concerning the number of bulbs planted in a pot or bowl should be taken as guides rather than hard-and-fast rules. This question can be left to the judgement of the grower, who should remember that the best effect will be from a generous planting. The smaller the bulb, the closer the planting.

 

PLUNGING
Bearing in mind the purpose of these notes, which is to help the gardenless householder to grow bulbs, then the operation of plunging is for him the most important and possibly the most difficult problem. With a little thought it can generally be solved.

Plunging the planted bulbs is necessary because ligfht is thus shut off from them and root growth will start before leaf growth. This will make certain that when the leaves and flowers grow they will have a strong root system through which to obtain their nourishment. A bulb which is grown without being planted at the proper depth will throw out leaves and develop a weak and rudimentary root system. Thus the act of putting the bowls of bulbs in the dark until they are well rooted takes the place in garden work of planting at a proper depth. When there is no frame available, 1 of 2 methods can be satisfactorily used:

  • Bowls and pots can be placed in a sufficiently deep box and then covered with well-moistened peat, sand or ahes. The box is best kept in a dark place, and the contents should be allowed to dry out.
  • If the box methos is not possible, then the pots and bowls can be placed in a dark cupboard, in which case regular inspections should be made to see that the contents of the pots have not become dry. It is as well to leave the cupboard door ajar from time to time so as to give some ventilation.

If neither of these suggestions is of use, the bulbs, after planting, can be well-covered with brown paper to prevent the light from reaching them, and the bowls kept where most convenient.

Whichever method is used, the temperature should remain as normal as possible and extremes should be avoided.

As soon as about 2-3 inches (5-75 cms) of leaf growth appears, the bulbs can be brought into full light. If there is any doubt whether a bulb has rooted, then it can be gently moved by hand to feel if it well anchored. If still in doubt, leave it where it is.

 

ON WATERING AND TEMPERATURES
The temperatures which are given in the notes should also be taken rather as guides than as points to be rigidly observed. They are based mainly upon experience in the greenhouse as well as in the living-room. Conditions in the living-room, of course, vary from house to house according to the different methods of heating used, but not one of the many types of bulbs given in this book requires excessive heat. They all need no more than those conditions which can be found in the average living-room in 1953 during winter and early-spring, even under fuel rationing. In fact some of the varieties - such as the special Narcissi - which require the coolest possible temperature, short of freezing; while Freesias should not be exposed to a temperature of more than 55 degrees Fahrenheit (13 degrees Celsius). Excessive heat will render many bulbs blind, or, if in flower, will shorten the flowering period. On the whole, more disappointment is caused, particularly with Cyclamen persicum, by too high temperatures than by the reverse.

Temperature is obviously closely related to air humidity; for the higher the temperature, the dryer the atmosphere, and so the greater the need to give a humid atmosphere or to water the plants. The greater the number of plants in a room, the greater is the humidity created; But if there is doubt upon this point, a pan of water, standing by the source of heat or elsewhere in the room, will help to raise the humidity. Thus, where plants are kept in the cool, the need to water is less; the warmer the conditions, the greater the need to water.

For the routine of watering there is but 1 rule, which is to keep the plant supplied with sufficient moisture so that shall be in a state of continual and unchecked growth until after flowering. The leaves and flowers should never flag, and the soil should, as a general rule, be continually in that state to which horse-lovers and rabbit-keepers delight to mix bran mashes - that is, alive. A good guide is to take some of the potting material in one's hand and slightly squeeze it. If, on relaxing one's grip, the mixture binds, then it just right. On the other hand, if too wet, the excess moisture will escape through the clenched fingers.

Providing that the grower knows something of the plants which he is tending - that is to say, whether as a race they are water-loving, as the Azalea Indica, or whether, like the Nerines and Freesias, their water demands are seasonal - then the details can be left to his common sense. The most important principle is not the regularity of watering but the regular round of inspection to see what may be needed. This must be a most carefully observed routine, for the reason that the temperature of the average living-room must vary considerably (unlike a greenhouse where the entire purpose is the maintenance of an even temperature),and consequently the water and humidity needs of the room-plants will vary from day to day. The watering must, therefore, never be left for certain hours on certain days but must be carried out when needed.

 

TEMPERATURE
Indoor temperatures should approach those of the plant's natural needs as nearly as possible; particularly in the case of the hardier and very early spring-flowering kinds, which should be kept in cool rather than temperate conditions. It is therefore better to keep such bulbs outside until growth is well advanced. If some simple shelter is given while they are outside, sufficient advance will be obtained so that they will be in flower before those planted in the garden. If it is impossible to leave them outside in the garden, a window-sill will serve the same purpose just as well. Those bulbs which need growing under colder conditions so as to avoid blindness and long, weak growth are:

Eranthis

Chionodoxa

Fritillaria meleagris

Galanthus

Iris reticulata

Muscari

Ornithogalum

Miniature Narcissi

Scilla

Vallota

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

LIGHT
Something has already been said concerning the effect of house conditions upon the colour of flowers. Such an effect is apparent in a paling of the flower's colour and is marked in certain varieties only. Nevertheless the appearance of the stems and flowers depends entirely upon the amount of light allowed to them. In the notes the most suitable aspect is given, but the mere provision of the right light and temperature is only part of the problem. In a clean greenhouse giving the best conditions there is a loss of some 30% between normal outside light and that which ultimately reaches the plant. How much greater will be the loss even the best-lighted room. Every effort must be made to give as much daylight as possible to all flowering bulbs, particularly after a good root and leaf growth has been secured. When the flowers appear they can be moved to some less well-lighted spot, such as the centre of the room, but even such a position will ultimately affect them.

The pots of bulbs must be turned regularly so that the plants shall not grow to 1 side only. At all times the maximum top light should be provided, although this is the most difficult to give. In an effort to fill the bulbs' need for light, some discretion is wanted to prevent the plants from becoming scorched by being too near the window glass on a sunny day.

 

STAKING
It is a sound principle to support the taller varieties of bulbs as soon as the leaves and flower stems will allow. It is a bad mistake to trust that the plant will support itself. Early sticking and tying will repay the trouble by preventing damage, and if left too late it is almost impossible to make the sticking a neat, tidy job or the flowers to look natural.

Obviously the purpose is to provide support in as inconspicuous a way as possible. Thin sticks must therefore be used. Halved bamboo canes, special metal rods, or, for certain bulbs such as Freesias, Ixias, Sparaxis or those with rush-like foliage, hazel twigs can be used. The ties should be made with raffia.

 

AFTER FLOWERING
So often once a bulb has flowered it will receive no more attention and is rejected to the dustbin. For the most part this is a complete waste of money and material, because, save with Tulips and Lily of the Valley, which have been forced at high temperatures, most of the bulbs listed in the notes can be brought into the house to flower again in the following years.

With the 2 exceptions mentioned above and the stipluation that the bulb has not been unduly forced, the treatment to give is in principle the same for all varieties. After flowering comes the dying down and the resting period, of varying length, which is followed in turn by the growing period. During the resting time a bulb is building up reserves of food, increasing its size or that of any offsets, and developing the future stem and flower. Once the flowers are dead the leaves start to die down. The slower the rate at which the leaves die, the better the quality of the bulb when it starts into growth again. Therefore, at that stage, watering should not be abruptly stopped, as is generally the case, but should be gradually discontinued over as long a time as possible. In fact, watering at the dying-down stage should be a step behind the plant's progress to rest - just sufficient to keep it awake for a little longer - so that it finishes its cycle naturally and is not killed through lack of water.

When the leaves are dead and brown the bulb may be lifted and allowed to rest in a box of peat until planting time, dependent upon the type. Where there is a garden or space available in the house, the bulbs can be left in the bowls until it is time to replant them, providing that they receive enough moisture from time to time. Certain bulbs object to being moved, however, and in these cases it is wiser to leave them undisturbed. A typical example is that of the miniature Narcissi, which, when once potted, should remain undisturbed in the pots for at least 2 to 3 years. It will be found that when this is done the flowers are far more satisfactory in the second and third years than in the first.

 

BULBS AND CORMS WHICH CAN BE REPOTTED FOR USE EACH YEAR

 

 

 

Allium neapolitanum

Arums

Begonias

Brodiaea

Brodiaea uniflora

Daffodils

Eranthis

Freesias

Gladiolus nanus and Byzantinus

Hyacinths

Ixias

Lachenalias

Muscari

Ornithogalum

Sparaxis

Tritonia

 

 

 

BULBS WHICH SHOULD REMAIN IN THE POTS FROM 2 TO 3 YEARS AT LEAST

 

 

 

Achimenes

Amaryllis

Agapanthus

Allium karataviense

Cochicum

Crinum
(3 years)

Crocus species

Fritillaria

Galanthus (3 years)

Iris species
(3 years)

Lilies

Cyclamen persicum
(3-5 years)

Liriope

Miniature Narcissi

Nerine
(3 years)

Polygonatum

Schizostylis

Scillas

Sterbergia lutea

Tulip species

Vallota
(3 years)

Zephyranthes

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ivydene Gardens Infill3 Plants Index Gallery:
Indoor Bulbs flowering in December

 

Ivydene Horticultural Services logo with I design, construct and maintain private gardens. I also advise and teach you in your own garden. 01634 389677

Fan-trained Shape
fantrainedshape
From Rhododendrons, boxwood, azaleas, clematis, novelties, bay trees, hardy plants, evergreens : novelties bulbs, cannas novelties, palms, araucarias, ferns, vines, orchids, flowering shrubs, ornamental grasses and trees book, via Wikimedia Commons


Site design and content copyright ©October 2016. Chris Garnons-Williams.

DISCLAIMER: Links to external sites are provided as a courtesy to visitors. Ivydene Horticultural Services are not responsible for the content and/or quality of external web sites linked from this site.  

Ivydene
Horticultural
Services

 

Ramblers Scramblers & Twiners by Michael Jefferson-Brown (ISBN 0 - 7153 - 0942 - 0) describes how to choose, plant and nurture over 500 high-performance climbing plants and wall shrubs, so that more can be made of your garden if you think not just laterally on the ground but use the vertical support structures including the house as well.

The Gardener's Illustrated Encyclopedia of Climbers & Wall Shrubs - A Guide to more than 2000 varieties including Roses, Clematis and Fruit Trees by Brian Davis. (ISBN 0-670-82929-3) provides the lists for 'Choosing the right Shrub or Climber' together with Average Height and Spread after 5 years, 10 years and 20 years.

 

Click on text in cells below to jump to that page detailing those Infill2 Plants of that plant type for that Cultivation requirement.

Plant Type
 

 

Alpines for Rock Garden (See Rock Garden Plant Flowers)

Alpine Shrubs and Conifers

The Alpine Meadow
Page 1
Page 2
Page 3

The Alpine Border

Alpine Plants for a Purpose

The Alpines that Dislike Lime

Alpines and Walls
Page 1
Page 2
Page 3

Alpines and Paving

Sink and Trough gardens

Aquatic
(Water Plants) for

Anti-erosion Riverbank

Marginal Plants (Bog Garden Plants)

Oxy-genating Weeds

Water Lilies

Floating Plants

Waterside Plants
and Plants for Dry Margins next to a Pond

Wildlife Pond Plants

Annual for

----------------

Plants for Cut Flowers in
January
February
March
April
May
June
July
August
September
October
November
December

Exposed Sites

Sheltered Sites with Green-house Annuals from 1916

Extra Poor Soil with Half-Hardy Annuals from 1916

Very Rich Soil with Biennials from 1916

Gap-filling in Mixed Borders with Hardy Annuals from 1916

Patio Containers

Cut Flowers Page 1
Page 2 Everlasting Flowers with Red Flowers from 1916

Attracting beneficial insects

Scent / Fragrance with Annuals for Cool or Shady Places from 1916

Low-allergen Gardens for Hay Fever Sufferers

Annual Plant Pairing Ideas

Low-Growing Annuals

Medium-Growing Annuals

Tall-Growing Annuals with White Flowers from 1916

Black or Brown Flowers

Blue to Purple Flowers

Green Flowers with Annuals and Biennials from 1916

Red to Pink Flowers
Page 1
Page 2

White Flowers

Yellow or Orange Flowers

Decorative Foliage

Moist Soil

Shade

House-plants with Yellow Flowers from 1916

Edging Beds

Hanging Baskets

Vining Annuals

 

Bedding for

Spring Bedding

Summer Bedding

Autumn/ Winter Bedding

Bedding for Light Sandy Soil

Bedding for Acid Soil

Bedding for Chalky Soil

Bedding for Clay Soil

Black Flowers

Blue Flowers

Orange Flowers

Pink Flowers

Long Flowering

Coloured Leaves

Attractive to Wildlife including Bees, Butterflies and Moths

Purple Flowers

Red Flowers

White Flowers

Yellow Flowers

Multi-Coloured Flowers

Aromatic Foliage or Scented Flowers

Bedding Plant Use

Flowers with 2 Petals

Flowers with 3 Petals

Flowers with
4 Petals

Flowers with 5 Petals

Flowers with 6 Petals

Flowers with more than 6 Petals

Use in Hanging Baskets

Flower Simple Shape

Shape of
Stars

Shape of
Bowls, Cups and Saucers

Shape of
Globes, Goblets and Chalices

Shape of
Trumpets and Funnels

Shape of
Bells, Thimbles and Urns

Use in Pots and Troughs

Flower Elaborated Shape

Shape of
Tubes, Lips and Lobes

Shape of
Slippers, Spurs and Lockets

Shape of
Hats, Hoods and Helmets

 

Use in
Screening

Use in
Window Boxes

Shape of
Standards, Wings and Keels

Shape of
Discs and Florets

Shape of
Pin-Cushions and Tufts

Shape of
Rosettes, Buttons and Pompons

Cut Flowers

Use in Bedding Out

Use in
Filling In

Biennial for

Cottage and Other Gardens

Cut Flower with Biennials for Rock Work from 1916

Patio Containers with Biennials for Pots in Greenhouse / Conservatory

Beneficial to Wildlife with Purple and Blue Flowers from 1916

Scent with Biennials for Sunny Banks or Borders from 1916

 

 

Bulb for
--------------
Explanation Intro to Bulbs
--------------
725 Blue, White, Yellow, Unusual Colour, or Red-Purple-Pink flowering Bulbs in each month they flower.

Indoor Bulbs for
December
January
February

Indoor Bulbs for
March
April
May

Indoor
Bulbs for
June
July
August

Indoor Bulbs for September
October
November

Bulbs in Window-boxes

Bulbs in the Border

Bulbs naturalised in Grass

Plant Bloom Dec-Jan
Feb-Mar

Plant Bloom
Apr-May
Jun-Aug

Plant Bloom
Sep-Oct
Nov-Dec

Plant Bloom Smallest of Gardens

Bulbs for the Bulb Frame

Bulbs in the Woodland Garden

Bulbs in the Rock Garden

Bulbs in Green-house or Stove

Achimenes, Alocasias, Amorpho-phalluses, Arisaemas, Arums, Begonias, Bomareas, Caladiums

Clivias,
Colocasias, Crinums, Cyclamens, Cyrt-anthuses, Eucharises, Urceocharis, Eurycles

Freesias, Gloxinias, Hae-manthus, Hipp-eastrums

Lachenalias, Nerines, Lycorises, Pen-cratiums, Hymen-ocallises, Richardias, Sprekelias, Tuberoses, Vallotas, Watsonias, Zephy-ranthes

Bulbs in Bowls

Bulbs in the Alpine House

Hardy Bulbs

Aconitum, Allium, Alstroe-meria, Anemone

Amaryllis, Antheri-cum, Antholy-zas, Apios, Arisaema, Arum, Aspho-deline,

Aspho-delus, Belam-canda, Bloomeria, Brodiae, Bulbo-codium

Calochorti, Cyclo-bothras, Camassia, Colchicum, Con-vallaria,
Forcing Lily of the Valley, Corydalis, Crinum, Crosmia, Montbretia , Crocus

Cyclamen, Dicentra, Dierama, Eranthis, Eremurus, Erythrnium, Eucomis

Fritillaria, Funkia, Galanthus, Galtonia, Gladiolus, Hemero-callis

Hyacinth, Hyacinths in Pots,
Scilla, Puschkinia, Chionodoxa, Chionoscilla, Muscari

Iris,
Kniphofia, Lapeyrousia, Leucojum

Lilium,

Lilium in Pots, Malvastrum, Merendera, Milla, Narcissus, Narcissi in Pots

Orni-thogalum, Oxalis, Paeonia, Ran-unculus, Romulea, Sanguin-aria,
Stern-bergia,
Schi-zostylis, Teco-philaea, Trillium

Tulip,
Zephy-ranthus

Half-Hardy Bulbs

Acidanthera, Albuca, Alstroemeri, Andro-stephium, Bassers, Boussing-aultias, Bravoas, Cypellas, Dahlias, Galaxis,
Geis-sorhizas, Hesper-anthas

Gladioli, Ixias,
Sparaxises, Babianas, Morphixias, Tritonias

Ixiolirions, Moraeas, Orni-thogalums, Oxalises, Phaedra-nassas,
Pan-cratiums, Tigridias, Zephyr-anthes, Cooperias

Bulbs for Bedding

Plant Bedding Spring
Summer

Climber
3 sector Vertical Plant System with flowers in
Jan,
Feb,
Mar,
Apr,
May 1,2
Jun,
Jul,
Aug,
Sep,
Oct,
Nov,
Dec

----------

Choosing the right Shrub or Climber

1a.
The Base -
Base of Wall Plants

1b.
Annuals

1c.
Herbs and Vegetables

1d.
Cut flowers, Cut Foliage

1e.
Scented flower or foliage

1f.
Foliage use only

 

2a. 1,2,3,4
The Prime - Wall Shrubs

2b.
Fruit trees

3a.
The Higher Reaches -
House-wall Ramblers

3b. 1,2
Non-House-Wall - Climbing Twiners

3c.
Non-House-Wall - Self-clinging Climbers

Raised Bed for Wheelchair Users

Plants for Wildlife-Use as well

Fastest Covering

Least protruding growth when fan-trained

1, 2
Evergreen

Use as
Hedge

Exposed Positions

Use as Groundcover

1, 2
Ornam-
ental Fruit

Scented Flowers

1, 2
Autumn Foliage Colour

Winter Bark

Winter and Early Spring Flowers

Summer Colour or Shape of Foliage

Edible Fruit

Needs Conservatory or Greenhouse

Large Pots and Containers

Cut Flowers

Attractive to Bees

Climber - Simple Flower Shape

anthericumcfloliliagofoord1a
Stars

geraniumflocineremuballerina1a1
Bowls, Cups and Saucers

berberisdarwiniiflower10h3a14k1a1
Globes, Goblets and Chalices

acantholimoncfloglumaceumfoord2
Trumpets and Funnels

phloxflotsubulatatemiskaming
Salverform

berberisdarwiniiflower10h3a14q1
Bells, Thimbles and Urns

 

Climber - Elaborated Flower Shape

prunellaflotgrandiflora
Tubes, Lips and Straps

aquilegiacfloformosafoord
Slippers, Spurs and Lockets

berberisdarwiniiflower10h3a14u1a
Hats, Hoods and Helmets

berberisdarwiniiflower10h3a14v1a
Standards, Wings and Keels

brachyscomecflorigidulakevock
Disks and Florets

androsacecforyargongensiskevock
Pin-cushions, Tufts, Petal-less and Cushions

armeriaflomaritimakevock
Umbels, Buttons and Pompoms


Indoor Bulb Growing by Edward Pearson. Published by Purnell & Sons, Ltd in 1953. It provides the data about Indoor Bulbs and Bulbs in Window-boxes.

Colour All The Year In My Garden: A selection of choice varieties - annuals, biennials, perennials, bulbs, climbers and trees and shrubs - that will give a continuity of colour in the garden throughout the year. Edited by C.H. Middleton. Gardening Book from Ward, Lock & Co published in 1938, provides plant data for a calendar of plants in bloom throughout the year and for those in the smallest garden.

The Book of Bulbs by S. Arnott, F.R.H.S. Printed by Turnbull & Spears, Edinburgh in 1901. This provides data about Hardy Bulbs, Half-Hardy Bulbs, Greenhouse and Stove Bulbs.

Collins Guide to Bulbs by Patrick M. Synge. ISBN 0 00 214016-0 First Edition 1961, Second Edition 1971, Reprinted 1973. This provides data on bulbs for bedding, bulbs in the border, bulbs naturalised in grass, bulbs in the woodland garden, bulbs in the rock garden, bulbs in pans in the alpine house, bulbs in the greenhouse, bulbs in bowls and the bulb frame.

item7a item7a item8 item8 item9 item9 item11 item11 item22 item22 item23 item23 item24 item24 item25 item25 item27 item27