Picture Folder Name Pages:- Since 14 June 2019 I have also started to put my own full-sized 4000 x 3000 digital Camera images into the relevant topics in this website again for use in the Public Domain - since there may be 9 or more to a page the resulting
Bedding Gallery has
Topic - Flower/Foliage Colour
Damage to Trees in Pavement in Madeira caused by the action of man during January/February 2019. Solution to holes in trees. Solutions to stop creating holes in trees. Solution to current problem on these mosaic pavements:- 166 trees in the pavements in a short section of a road in Funchal, Madeira are being slowly, starved, dehydrated, asphyxiated, poisoned by tarmac and concrete, burnt inside their hollow trunks, roots pounded by 40 ton lorries or shoes of pedestrians, and allowed to rot until killed off during February 2019 (see information in Problems with trees in pavements in Funchal, Madeira in January/February 2018 Page, which appears to have had no effect) as shown by my 433 photos in the following pages within the Home Topic:-
Articles on
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List of Pictures in a Picture Folder:- Plants and plant supports in Sissinghurst Castle Garden on 19 April 2013. Plant supports are erected in the spring to support the plants growing from underneath them. When those plants die down in the autumn, then these minor supports are withdrawn leaving the support posts if these were used to attach the minor supports to. Other plant supports are created for climbers and erected on walls, fences and posts. |
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Page 1 of Plant Supports Chaenomeles x superba 'Knap Hill Scarlet' IMG 2135.JPG Chaenomeles x superba 'Knap Hill Scarlet' IMG 2136.JPG. Chaenomeles speciosa 'Sanguinea Plena' IMG 2002.JPG Chaenomeles speciosa 'Sanguinea Plena' IMG 2003.JPG Chaenomeles speciosa 'Sanguinea Plena' IMG 2004.JPG Clematis 'Asao' IMG 2044.JPG Clematis montana 'Marjorie' Clematis montana 'Marjorie' support system IMG 2018.JPG Climbing rose support next to pigeon loft IMG 2099.JPG hop. Humulus lupulus 'Fuggle' IMG 2092.JPG Page 2 Plants without Supports Acaena millefolia IIMG 2052.JPG Acaena millefolia IMG 2053.JPG Angelica archangelica IMG 2090.JPG Arabis alpina 'Snowcap' IMG 2107.JPG Butchers broom (Ruscus aculeatus) Camellia x williamsii 'J.C. Williams' Camellia x williamsii 'J.C. Williams' Cistus x corbariensis IMG 2108.JPG Cornus controversa 'Variegata' Cornus controversa 'Variegata' Daphne odora 'Aureomarginata' Page 3 Plants Without Supports Daffodils at Sissinghurst Daffodils at Sissinghurst Dianthus 'Musgraves Pink' Elaeagnus pungens maculata Elaeagnus pungens maculata Erysimum 'Chelsea Jacket' Erysimum 'Chelsea Jacket' Erysimum scoparias Erysimum scoparias Euphorbia myrsinites Euphorbia sikkimensis Page 4 Plants Without Supports Forsythia IMG 2109.JPG Galanthus 'Clare Blakeway-Phillips' Geranium sylvaticum 'Mayflower' Gymnocarpium dryopteris Helleborus argutifolius Helleborus foetidus Helleborus foetidus Herb garden at Sissinghurst Ipheion uniflorum 'Wisley Blue' Ipheion uniflorum 'Wisley Blue' Irrigation tap Hydrangea anomala subsp. Lonicera x brownii 'Dropmore Scarlet' Prunus x blireana Rosa bourbon 'Zigeunerknabe' with string support system Rosa centifolia 'Fantin Latour' Rosa centifolia 'Paul Ricault' Rosa climber 'Blossomtime' Rosa climber 'Blossomtime' Rosa climber 'Blossomtime' Rosa climbing 'Rose Mermaid' Rosa climbing 'Rose Mermaid' Page 6 Plants without Supports Knautia macedonica pink form Lamium orvala Ligustrum japonicum rotundifolium Lilium regale Lupinus 'Blue Jacket' Lysimachia ciliata 'Firecraker' Magnolia denudata Mahonia japonica Muscari botryoides 'Album' Narcissus bulbocodium Osmanthus delavayi Page 7 Plants without Supports Paeonia lactiflora 'Auguste Dessert' Paeonia lactiflora 'Auguste Dessert' Paeonia ludlowii Paeonia ludlowii Paeonia mlokosewitschii Paeonia 'White Wings' Paris polyphylla Phlomis russeliana Polystichum setiferum Divisilobum Group IMG 2050.JPG Primula 'Barnhaven Yellow Primula cowichan Amethyst Group Page 8 Plants without Supports Primula 'Blue Sapphire' Primula 'Blue Sapphire' Primula elatoir Primula guinevere Primula guinevere Privet hedge bench in white garden Pulmonaria augustifolia 'Mawson's Blue' Pulmonaria augustifolia 'Mawson's Blue' Pulmonaria officinalis 'Sissinghurst White' IMG 2112.JPG Pulmonaria officinalis 'Sissinghurst White' IMG 2113.JPG Pulmonaria rubra Page 9 Plants without Supports Pulmonaria saccharata 'Fruhlingshimmel' IMG 2040.JPG Pulmonaria saccharata 'Fruhlingshimmel' IMG 2039.JPG Pulsatilla officinalis 'Pasque Flower' Rhododendron oreotrephes Rhododendron oreotrephes Rhododendron oreotrephes Rosa gallica 'Duchesse de Montebello' Rosa moyesii Rosa 'Roxburgs' with chipped wood mulch IMG 2098.JPG Sanguinaria canadensis Schizostylis coccinea 'Alba' Rosa damask 'Ispahan' Rosa damask 'Ispahan' Rosa 'Wolley Dod' with string supports Rose supported on dead tree Rose tripod support system Sweet peas with branch support system IMG_2134.JPG Twiggy Support System Page 11 Plants without Supports Spring flowering bulbs Spring flowering bulbs Spring flowering bulbs Tansy tanacetum vulgare Trillium sessile Trillium sessile Tulipa 'Diana' and Tulipa 'Maureen' Tulipa 'Orange Emperor' Tulipa 'Orange Emperor' Veronica longifolia 'Fascination' Page 12 Plants without Supports Veratrum nigrum Veratrum nigrum What gardening team do at Sissinghurst IMG 2143.JPG Page 13 Recommended Rose Pruning Methods Rosa - it displays 3 distinct habits of growth and flowering. Pruning related to Growth and Flowering (I give the pages within each of the sections for the roses in that section, which are detailed in those pages by Peter Beales Roses - An illustrated encyclopedia and grower's handbook of species roses, old roses and modern roses, shrub roses and climbers by Peter Beales. First published in 1992 by Harvill. ISBN 0-00-272178-3):-
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Plant Labelling - A suggestion for plant labelling to help visitors A different solution is that each gardening member of the RHS staff at Wisley be provided with Large White Plastic Angled-Head Labels which are 20 inches (50 cms) in height with a 6 x 4 inch (16 x 10 cms) writing surface and a Marker pen with Black ink to provide a good temporary label for the above broken label (in Lost Flowers page) or for missing labels. If you are concerned about these labels going on "Walkabout", then insert another white label behind the plant and make it invisible to the public. |
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Site design and content copyright ©August 2019. |
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Ivydene Gardens Photo Sissinghurst Plants Gallery: |
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Rosa This vast genus, including many species and related hybrids, displays 3 distinct habits of growth and flowering. They are:
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Pruning related to Growth and Flowering It will be seen at a glance that the group which flowers best on laterals, which are produced by the young shoots made during the previous year may have much of the old wood cut out after flowering, provided there is sufficient of the new. With the 2 remaining groups, on the other hand, to cut this older wood out would be wrong when it supports a good flower display, and when there is not sufficient replacement wood. However, this is perhaps an over-simplification, and it may be dangerous to apply these rules generally. It should, however, be looked upon as an attempt to give the reader an over-all understanding of the subject. Most roses grow naturally by a system of replacement of the older flowering branches by young ones. The nature of the pruning depends in many cases upon the vigour of the plant and the extent of this ability to replace old wood. With this understanding an intelligent pruner, using his powers of observation to the full, will adjust the pruning according to the vigour and type of wood of each bush in turn, in order to obtain the maximum display the following season. The rose species are divided botanically into subgenera and sections, each of which displays a typical habit of growth and has its own pruning requirements (I give the pages within each of the sections for the roses in that section, which are detailed in those pages by Peter Beales Roses - An illustrated encyclopedia and grower's handbook of species roses, old roses and modern roses, shrub roses and climbers by Peter Beales. First published in 1992 by Harvill. ISBN 0-00-272178-3):- |
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Subgenus Hulthemia Rosa persica. This is a very rare shrub indeed, which is normally grown under glass or in a very warm and sheltered border. It spreads by means of suckers and these should be left to develop as they produce the strongest growth and are more likely to succeed. There is little actual pruning apart from cutting out the dead wood. Pages 117-119 |
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Subgenus Hesperhodos Rosa stellata is in this small group. It is difficult to grow, liking a well-drained, sunny position. Rosa minutifolia has similar requirements and is even more difficult. Both species are better suited to warmer and sunnier climates than ours in the UK. Rosa stellata var. mirifica is a stronger grower but also prefers a sunny, well-drained position. It has a suckerous habit and flowers better on this younger and stronger wood from laterals produced in the second season. Pruning consists of cutting out the old and dead wood in the spring and looking over the plants again after flowering, when the new season's growth may be taken into account in deciding just how much of the old should finally be removed. The suckers often appear among neighbouring plants as the clump becomes established and, if these are valued, must be removed at an early stage, tracing the root back to the parent plant if possible. A shrub with this habit is better in an isolated bed surrounded by grass or among taller shrubs which will not suffer in any way. This rose should not be grown closer than 60-90 cms (24-36 inches) from a path, as the thorny branches will be weighed down over the edge as they extend and become older, and will thus be a nuisance. Pages 120-121 |
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Subgenus Eurosa has the following Sections:-
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Section 1 Pimpinellifoliae Rosa spinosissima is a species which normally suckers, especially in a light, sandy soil where it is very much at home. For this reason it is difficult to restrict this species and many of the varieties to a given area, and the suckers need constant attention during the summer months. Occasionally, some of the older wood can be cut out of the larger growers such as Rosa spinosissima var. altaica. The form Rosa spinosissima 'Andrewsii', makes an attractive, informal hedge about 120 cm (48 inches) high. Of the stronger-growing species in this section, some have graceful, arching branches such as Rosa hugonis, but they may become untidy as they grow older, for as extension growths are produced on the older wood these too arch over and thus the shape is spoilt and a bare stem exposed. By looking over the bushes after flowering, this habit may be checked, cutting out the oldest wood low down and near ground level. The remainder of the branches and the laterals are left intact, many of the latter having a definite horizontal habit and with the foliage being almost fern-like an attractive effect is produced. The following species may be treated in a similar manner: Rosa primula, Rosa ecae, Rosa farreri, Rosa xanthina and Rosa omeiensis. A study of the growth which these make will serve as a guide for others. Rosa xanthina f. spontanea (Syn. Canary Bird) is sometimes grown as a standard on rugosa stock. Pruning is much the same, but staking needs to be very rigid, for a heavy head of foliage is produced. A wire frame or cross-piece secured to the stake may be concealed and yet hold the head rigid, thus preventing wind sway which would otherwise occur. Rosa foetida itself, with some of the stronger forms, produces strong, arching growths which readily extend over neighbouring shrubs and become a nuisance. This can be corrected by thinning out the older wood which weighs the new growth down and encourages this habit. Pages 133-142 for |
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Section 2 Gallicanae The Moss Roses and many of the other old fashioned hybrids belong to this group. Rosa gallica. The varieties in this group vary in growth and habit. Most need good growing soil and conditions but the branches often become thick and crowded, especially as the new growth is put on during and after flowering. Some thinning is therefore necessary, taking out the older shoots after flowering down to good healthy growths or buds, often to ground level. Final adjustment may be made in March before the new growth commences, taking out more of the thinner and older wood, and even shortening a number of the young growths if this is considered necessary. Hard pruning will not, however, help these roses to make good if the growing conditions are not suitable. Rosa centifolia, the Cabbage Rose, is also related to many of the old hybrids including the Moss Rose. If it is considered necessary some of the weaker and older wood may be thinned after flowering and a final look over the shrubs made before growth commences in the spring. Rosa x alba is quite a strong-growing shrub, and the branches are often so heavy with fruit that they spoil the general shape of the bush. These may be pruned back to suitable upright growths after the fruiting display is over. Pages 143-172 for |
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Section 3 Caninae In growth the species in this section vary considerably, some being sturdy, others producing long, arching branches. Those with a sturdy habit are suitable for border culture, but the scrambling species are difficult to control and satisfy in such a situation and need a small tree or artificial structure for support. Rosa glutinosa is dwarf and compact and spreads by means of suckers. It should be planted in a group in the front of the border. There is little pruning with this beyond the removal of the obviously dead wood. Rosa corymbifera, Rosa micrantha, Rosa stylosa and Rosa canina have arching growths and if growing strongly they are a nuisance in the border unless a stake or support is given. They are better in the wilder parts of the garden, for it is difficult to prune them on a restrictive policy and yet do them justice. Growths can be looped over and around stakes, but unless some pruning is carried out before the season's growth each year, the bushes develop into an impossible tangle of shoots, which will in the end prove difficult to control. The early spring period is selected for this pruning operation as many of these species have an attractive fruiting display. Pages 173-184 for |
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Section 4 Carolinae Rosa carolina and Rosa virginiana are somewhat similar in habit as they both form dense clumps of erect stems, the former spreading by means of suckers. Both species are more suitable for the more natural parts of the garden, for the branches arch over as they become laden with fruit. In the border, unless they are surrounded by shrubs which are of equal size, they need staking, as otherwise this habit spoils their effect. Pruning consists of cutting out the oldest branches after the fruits have disappeared, but the stems tend to support each other and they should not be over-thinned. Pages 185-188 for |
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Section 5 Cinnamomeae This section shows considerable variation in habit and size, but the general rule is again to cut and thin out the older wood after the fruiting display has finished, remembering the all-important essential that the natural habit of growth must be taken into account. Pages 189-214 |
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Section 6 Synstylae These are strong growers and many of the species and hybrids in this group may reach consideable heights, provided that a suitable support is available. They will even climb 360 to 480 inches (900 to 1200 cms) over large trees. Many, even the most vigorous in this group will also trail well over banks when no support is available. It is an advantage to hard-prune a young plant intended for this restricted training and habit for the first season or two after planting, for this ensures the production of sufficient young growth from the base. Flowering does not matter at this early stage and pruning can therefore be carried out in the spring back to growths or buds near the base of the plant. Pages 215-320
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Section Chinensis Pages 321-418 |
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Section 7 Indicae The species and hybrids in this section flower over a long period during the early summer on growths from the old wood, and later in the year from shoots produced during the current season, often from near the base of the plant. Rosa x noisettiana has a climbing or spreading habit and thus much of the framework is retained from year to year. The laterals are pruned back in the spring together with the oldest and weakest branches, provided there is new growth coming up from the base which can be used for replacement. Rosa x borboniana is a stong, upright grower. The oldest and weakest wood is cut out in the spring. The unripened and flowered tips of the laterals which remain are cut back. |
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Section 8 Banksianae The most important rose in this section is Rosa banksiae. It is a climber and may reach a height of 480 inches (1200 cms). It is not likely to be successful in the open garden, even with a suitable support, for it is not sufficiently hardy. A South or West facing wall is necessary, using the ordinary strained wire method of suppot in order that the plant may be tied in as close to the wall as possible. |
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Section 9 Laevigatae Rosa laevigata, the strong tender grower in this section, is more suited to wall culture, except in the mildest parts of the country where it may be grown in the open with a tree for support. Trained on a wall, the young growths should be tied in to replace some of the older wood after flowering. The same method of pruning may be applied to the hybrids in which this species is involved such as Rosa x anemonoides, and 'Silver Moon'. |
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Section 10 Bracteatae Rosa bracteata is not fully hardy and must be given wall protection. Even with this safeguard it is only suitable for the warmer localities. In the nursery it should be encouraged to form laterals low down on the plant, by stopping if necessary. These are trained out fanwise to form the permanent branch system. As these branch, the space allocated to the plant is covered. |
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The following comes from The Cultivation of Roses chapter in Peter Beales Roses - An illustrated encyclopedia and grower's handbook of species roses, old roses and modern roses, shrub roses and climbers by Peter Beales. First published in 1992 by Harvill. ISBN 0-00-272178-3):- |
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"Choosing and Buying Roses Suckers and Understocks A rose planted from the nursery actually comprises 2 different roses, the roots being one species - i.e. the stock, and the shoots another - i.e. the variety chosen. When it is planted the root sometimes decides to become independent and send up a shoot of its own; this is called suckering. Since the roots of the stock are usually more vigorous than their enforced guest, the shoot or shoots, if allowed to grow, will eventually take over and smother the variety being cultivated. Suckers, when they appear, should be removed before they have a chance to grow to any size. Experience will enable a gardener to recognize them as slightly different from the young shoots which sprout to the stems above the ground, for suckers always appear from below ground level and often some little distance from the plant. If doubtful, scrape a little soil away from the rose bush and try to find the original union of stock and scion. If the shoot is coming fom below this point, then it is probably a sucker. Remove it at the point where it joins the root; if it is cut higher up, even more suckers will be created in gratitude for pruning. Pulling suckers fom the root is more effective than cutting them, especially when they are young. |
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Planting:- Healing-in The term 'heeling-in' simply means the digging of a trench large enough to accomodate the roots of roses so as to hold them temporarily in good condition until they can be planted in their permanent position. |
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Winter Protection In extreme climates, such as North America and Canada, only the hardiest roses will survive outside during the winter months and it may be necessary to protect them by earthing them up, or insulating the roots. |
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Soils and Soil Preparation Roses prefer soil with a pH of about 6.5, in other words slightly acid or neutral, although they are not too fussy about alkalinity and many will tolerate up to pH 7.5. Should you suspect that the pH of your soil is lower or higher than these tolerance levels, then either have your soil tested or do so yourself with one of the inexpensive soil-testing kits available from most good garden centres. Good preparation of soils before planting is always rewarded by more contented roses. It is advisable, therefore to dig over the soil well in advance of planting, incorporating some form of organic material. Well-rotted farmyard manure is undoubtedly the best, but failing this, a mixture of coarse, damp spent mushroom compost and bonemeal can be used or, better still, well-rotted compost and your own home compost. "During my 20 years of maintaining other people's gardens I did not find that the compost produced by them or by me using their containers in their gardens was all that satisfactory. This is due to not supplying a sufficient quantity of fresh organic material to a heap in one go, which would then create a large enough mound to get to a high enough temperature during the first 2 weeks of aerobic decomposition stage to kill off its weed seeds, so that when this compost is put back on the beds, up would come weeds. Putting the grass mowings on the heap did not help either. If the soil is very poor, a balanced fertiliser with added trace elements can be broadcast over the soil ahead of planting. Special rose fertilizer can be bought from most garden centres; the same type of fertilizer can be used as top-dressing after the roses are established, preferably before the start of the growing season, usually at the time of pruning. This gives the nutrients the chance of penetrating the soil, prior to the beginning of maximum root activity. On good soils, one top-dressing should be enough to sustain the rose throughout the summer, and no further feeding should be necessary until the following spring. For impoverished soils, however, a second dressing should be applied in early summer, by which time the rose will be seeking further nourishment to provide a second flush of flowers or secondary growth, depending on its habit. Should any other type of balanced fertilizer be used, it should be low in nitrogen and high in potash, with a good mix of the major trace elements. Iron is particularly important, especially if your soil is alkaline; so is magnesium, which is frequently deficient in many soils. Those who practise organic gardening can supply nutrition by means of liquid seaweed, spent hops, farmyard manure, fish meal, etc, but the levels of potash must be kept up by the use of soot or wood ashes. All soils, of course, are improved by the incorporation of organic materials, but I do not greatly favour constant mulching of rose beds with farmyard manure. This practice, apart from looking unsightly for much of the year, tends to harbour the spores of diseases by giving them a perfect environment from which to launch themselves at the rose each spring. Mulching, if considered necessary, should be to suppress weeds rather than as a source of nutrition. Bark chippings are ideal, especially if applied to the depth of about 1 inch (2.5 cm), to fairly clean ground. Nor do I consider the use of lawn trimmings a good practice; in any event, they should only be applied in moderation. They are best composted and spread at a later date; again, this should be done sparingly, for the high nitrogen content of such compost can lead to abundant growth, fewer flowers and less immunity to disease. The nutritional requirements of roses in containers are the same as for those growing in open ground; remember, however, that nutrients leach from potted soil far more quickly than they do from natural soil, so more frequent applications of fertiliser are necessary. Liquid fertilizer can be applied when watering. Roses also respond to foliar feeding, but this should not be done in hot sunshine. |
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Specific Replant Disease Roses should not be planted in soil where other roses have been grown. This is because of a soil condition known as 'rose sickness'. Soil becomes contaminated by chemical secretions from rose roots, which newly planted bushes find offensive. Such a condition is called 'specific replant disease' and manifests itself in stunted, rather reluctant bushes which never develop satisfactorily, no matter how well they are tended. It is for this reason that commercial rose producers never grow successive crops of roses on the same land without at least a two-year break between each crop. If waiting 2 years is impossible, the soil should be changed. This is very important and should not present too much of a problem. It is simply a matter of juxtaposing two lots of soil, one, say, from the vegetable garden or from any spot where the soil is good and has not previously grown roses, and the other from the site where the new rose is to be planted. There are no short cuts; soil must be changed even if you are replacing a young bush. If this is not possible, old bushes should be removed and the soil in which they were growing rested for a period of at least 2 years before new bushes are planted. The vacant plot can, of course, be used for another catch crop (A Norfolk term for a quick-growing interim crop), such as vegetables or bedding plants, while resting from roses. "It is also wise not to plant another member of the Rosacea family in the same soil as it is replacing for the same reason." comment from Chris Garnons-Williams. "Replant disease refers to the problem of re-establishing plants in soil where the same species was previously grown. Roses are probably the most commonly-known example, but there are actually many species of tree and shrub which are susceptible, including: Apple, Pear, Peach, Plum and Quince.
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Planting Containerized Roses Containerized roses can be planted at any time of the year, providing the ground is not frozen or waterlogged just after heavy rain. When removing the pot, the soil packed around the roots must not be disturbed. Once the plant with its undisturbed ball of soil is in position, refill the hole with care. Since most composts used for container roses are peat-based, which is difficult to moisten, plunge the rose for half an hour or so into a bucket of water before planting out. As with bare-root roses, make sure that the union is 1 inch (2.5 cm) below soil level; this is very important as it reduces the possibility of suckers and stabilises the bush against wind damage. Standard or tree roses, either bare-root or containerized, require a good stake to support them. This should always be in position before the standard or rose tree is planted and should be driven at least 18 inches (45 cms) into the soil to give adequate support, even deeper if the soil is sandy. Note: Most roses purchased in containers have not been grown in the pot. They are simply open-ground plants containerized a few months earlier. This is because they are not so amenable to being container-grown as some other plants. "I think that once the propagators have created the new rose nursery field section and the time period for the sale of bare-root roses has expired, then all the remaining roses in the old field section are lifted and if suitable are put into containers. Then; those containerized roses are transferred elsewhere for further development, and used for restocking in the shop when required. This then releases the old section used for roses to be used for the next crop of some other plant." Comment from Chris Garnons-Williams. |
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Planting Specimen Roses in Lawns When planting specimen roses in lawns or shrub roses in rough grass, it is important to leave an ample circle of soil around the bush. Roses do not like the competition of tall uncut grass, especially in their early years; and apart from looking untidy, it is difficult to remove it from around an established plant and it also makes mowing difficult. "Section 9 on my Welcome Page explains why grass has such a detrimental effect on trees/shrubs or other plants planted within it, so please leave a radius of at least 24 inches (60 cms) without grass in it round each trunk of each plant in grass or lawn." Comment from Chris Garnons-Williams. |
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Planting Climbing Roses Adopt the same method for planting climbing roses as with bush roses, but when they are to grow on walls, remember that the soil is often poorer near the house or building and that a little extra organic material will be needed at planting time. Newly planted climbing roses are often the first to suffer from drought, since they have extra foliage to support. Frequently, too, they miss out on some of the rain, especially those on south-facing walls or fences. If planning to plant on pillars or tripods, the structure should be erected in advance of planting. "After planting, soak the surrounding soil, install an irrigation system and then apply a 3 inch (7.5 cm) organic mulch - spent mushroom compost, bark, or farmyard manure covered with grass mowings. The irrigation system needs to be furthest from the wall so that you do not get rising damp. Remember to top up the mulch to provide nourishment for the rose, humus for the soil and prevent the water from the irrigation system from being evaporated from the soil by the sun or wind on the ground. I personally used a ring main of the leaky pipe so that water came in at both ends and that way you could have 50 feet (600 inches, 1500cms) in total length of 1 irrigation pipe rather than only 25 feet, since the water leaking from the pipe might have run out before getting to the end of a single point of water access on a 50 foot length. This means that the surface of the earth is at least 3 inches (7.5 cms) below the ground level of the path, lawn or flower bed adjoining the climbing rose bed. If the mulch is applied above the normal ground level, then it is disturbed by birds looking for worms etc and so it gets distributed onto the surrounding area; causing it to look untidy. This way, hopefully, there is less disturbance. In order to support climbers on walls, then you could use vine eyes. At the ends, top and bottom of this support structure you need to use Screw-in Vine Eye, 50 mm(2 inch) - Zinc plated vine-eyes. This is because you are going to tighten the wire going from these sides to the other side and therefore if there was a shank sticking out from the wall on these sides, it would most likely be bent. Each row of vine-eyes is stated in the middle of a brick and the next one is put in 2 bricks further on and the vine-eye rows are on each fourth row. The vine-eyes between the sides, top and bottom can be Vine-eye Screw in 75mm Bzp Zinc plated Weatherproof Steel. Then thread Galvanized Coated Garden Wire, 1.6mm 14 gauge 1/16 inch thickness from one side to the other diagonally. Then, twist it on itself at one end before going the other end and pulling it tight, then cut it and twist it on itself. When all the diagonals have been done from one side to the other then do the horizontal rows in the same way. Then use green twine to tie the climber." Comment from Chris Garnons-Williams. |
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Planting and Staking Standard Roses For standard shrub roses and weepers, stout tall stakes should be positioned in advance of planting and inserted at intervals of 18 inches (45 cms) into the ground. At least 2 rose tree ties will be needed to fix the stem to the stake. For weeping standards, which are sometimes 60 inches (150 cms) tall, 3 ties may be necessary. Stakes usually have a shorter life than the rose itself, so at some point it will need restaking. Provision for this can be made at planting time by placing a metal or plastic tube, of sufficient size to take the stake, vertically into the ground to the correct depth and placing the stake into this before planting the rose. This will enable the replacement of stakes to take place late without too much disturbance to the soil surrounding the roots. "Instead of using wooden stakes why not use plastic coated steel stakes and then you might not need to replace them? Use the same irrigation system and mulch as in my comments for Planting Climbing Roses." Comments from Chris Garnons-Williams |
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Planting Roses into Pots Whatever the type of rose, a good, large container is important. Free drainage is essential, so in addition to providing drainage holes, shingle or broken bricks should be placed in the bottom of the container. A thin layer of coarse, damp peat should be placed over the drainage material, followed by John Innes Potting Compost No. 3. If this is dry, dampen it slightly before use, since once in situ it is much more difficult to moisten thoroughly. The peat layer over the drainage material is to stop the soil sifting through and blocking the drainage holes. The container should be filled to about 2 inches (5 cm) from the top to allow watering without spilling both water and soil over the edge. The rose should be planted deep enough for the shoots to come from below the soil surface. If a wooden container is used, its life can be prolonged by lining the inside with thick polythene before filling with soil, remembering to allow sufficient drainage holes in the bottom. If the roses are already in containers or pots, these should be removed before planting, taking care not to disturb the ball of soil around the roots. For several weeks after planting they will sustain themselves from the ball of soil in which they have been growing and, until they start making additional roots, will need liberal and frequent watering. Like all pot plants, roses grown in containers will need repotting from time to time. This should be done only in the dormant season, and some of the existing soil should be retained around the roots, especially in the case of older plants. |
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Pruning The most important 'tools' a pruner needs are
Modern secateurs are well-made, precision instruments and it is important to choose only the best. These should have a good, clean cutting edge and a design that provides a maximum cutting action with a minimum of effort. For older, more mature shrub roses and climbers, a pair of long-handled pruners, suitable for operating with both hands, will also be needed. There is one golden rule which applies to all roses, both ancient and modern, be they climbers or shrubs: that no matter what size plants are received from the nursery, they should always be pruned very hard after planting. |
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Pruning Once-Flowering Roses Pruning can undoubtedly benefit some shrub roses but it must be stressed that others are best left unpruned, except on a general maintence basis. It is often far more difficult to decide whether or not to prune than how to prune. When in doubt, the best policy to adopt for the vast majority of old-fashioned and shrub roses is, do nothing. I believe that many of the older roses, such as Albas, Centifolias, Damasks and Gallicas, are best pruned in summer after flowering. This enables them to refurbish themselves with flowering wood and give a better display the following year. To prune these roses, remove any dead or diseased wood and any weak shoots that look incapable of supporting flowers the following season. Remove, too, any shoots that are chafing and rubbing against one another, and thin out overcrowded areas likely to give the plant a leggy appearance. Care should be taken, however, not to destroy the general character of the shrubs. Furthermore, try not to overdo the summer pruning, since this will result in much loss of sap, and the plants will not recover in time to make growth for the following year. If severe treatment is necessary, this should be done in the dormant season. The species roses, Scotch roses and Sweet Briars are, by and large, best left to develop their own personalities until they risk getting out of hand, when it does no harm to prune them fairly hard to keep within bounds. |
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Pruning Repeat-Flowering Shrub Roses The Portlands are usually repeat or continuous flowering, an attribute which in my opinion is positively encouraged if they are pruned whilst dormant each season and dead-headed in summer when necessary. Except in the largest gardens where they can be given their heads, Hybrid Musks, Bourbons and Hybrid Perpetuals are best pruned every winter. If done sensibly, this will keep them replenished with young shoots and stop them becoming leggy and unkempt. I also believe that intelligent, moderate pruning will help prolong their life. Prune them in February by removing all superfluous shoots, i.e. those too thin to support many flowers. Remove, too, any wood that is overcrowding the shrub, usually from the centre of the bush; and reduce the length of some of the main shoots by one-third, so as to encourage early flowers. The remaining shoots can be reduced by up to two-thirds or more; these will not only produce flowers but usually provide the foundation for strong growth and replacement wood for future seasons. Whether grown as a hedge or as individual specimens, Rugosa roses should only be pruned lightly to keep the hedge or shrub in shape. For the first year, of course, they need to be pruned hard. But they should get out of hand in later years they will tolerate harsh pruning and easily recover. The Chinas and older Hybrid Teas should be pruned in the same way as modern roses by removing twiggy, thin or dead wood, and cutting back the stronger shoots to about one-third of their length each year, aiming if possible to encourage basal growth. Tea roses prefer to be treated more sparingly; they need to be pruned, of course, in order to keep them in shape, and to prevent them developing too much old unproductive wood, but not pruned for pruning's sake. |
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Pruning Climbing Roses and Ramblers Climbing roses fall roughly into 2 categories,
In the first category
In the second category
Roses of these types that are growing up into trees, covering large buildings or being used as free-growing prostrate plants on banks or in woodlands, are a law unto themselves and best left unpruned, except in necessity. The same advice applies to the specialist tree climbers such as Rosa filipes, Rosa moschata and Rosa helenae. When grown on a sheltered wall Rosa banksiae delights in finding its way into nooks and crannies and twining itself behind guttering; it will even blot out windows if so allowed. To get the best results, let it grow freely without pruning until it becomes a nuisance, then resrain it by pruning in early summer, after it has flowered, removing only the older wood. |
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Pruning Weeping Standards Weeping standards are varieties of rambling roses, budded by nurserymen on to straight stems. The best weepers are those from the Multiflora and Wichuraiana groups with pliable shoots and a natural tendency to grow towards the ground. These require a combination of winter pruning and summer trimming, by removing any untoward shoots as and when they appear and keeping the dense growth at the top thinned out as necessary. Reluctant weepers can be trained to 'weep' by 3 methods:-
Old-fashioned roses, species roses or shrub roses growing as standards need the same treatment as afforded to their shrub counterparts, but they will need tidying more frequently to keep them in shape. |
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Dead-Heading Dead-heading is in many ways far more important to some varieties than pruning, although this can be rather a nuisance where large numbers of old roses are concerned. It is less of a drudge, however, if the habit of carrying secateurs at all times is adopted while walking round the garden, and snipping off any unsightly dead heads as when they occur. It is best to make the cut at the first proper bud below the flower stalk. Only dead-head those varieties which retain their dead petals and become unsightly. Many others will eventually produce hips - pleasing, not least to the birds.
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Pruning Modern Roses As mentioned in connection with the older roses, the chief and only golden rule that I apply to pruning is the vital one of pruning hard in the first year after planting. Without fail, all newly planted roses should be pruned to approximately 3 inches (7.5 cm) or 3-4 eyes from the bottom of each stem; this applies not only to bush roses but also to climbers, shrub roses and standards. The reason is to encourage all new growth to sprout from as near the base of the plant as possible and so to lay the foundation for well-balanced, sturdy growth in the future. There can be no doubt that timid pruning at this early stage leads to more disappointment with new roses than any other single malpractice. In the interest of satisfied customers, I would dearly love to send out all our modern roses ready pruned, but when we tried this some years ago, even with a note of explanation, we received too many complaints about quality and size to warrant perseverance. In subsequent years pruning need not be so severe. It then becomes a question of judgement as to how many shoots to remove and by how much to reduce the length of the remaining ones. Remember, rose bushes will quickly become leggy and bare-bottomed if given half a chance. As a general guide, shoots of Hybrid Teas and Floribundas thinner than a pencil are unlikely to produce flowers of any decent size, so they should be cut back harder than thicker shoots. Bear in mind that all things are comparitive, so the thickness of wood will depend upon the overall size of the plant. All dead wood should be removed and the aim should be to keep the centre of the plant as open as possible. I do not place as much importance on a slanting cut as some people do, but where possible the cut should be made just above a bud, preferably a healthy bud, facing outwards from the plant. As time goes on you will learn by your mistakes - but if in doubt, hard pruning is better than no pruning at all. As for timing, there are advocates of autumn pruning, winter pruning and spring pruning, and to some extent the choice is governed by location and the severity of cold weather. Here in Norfolk, late February to early March is about the right time but a few weeks either side might be more appropriate in other temperate climates. Whatever time is chosen for the main pruning, always tidy up the plant by removing a few inches of shoots in late autumn. This will improve the appearance of the garden and help to reduce wind-rock during the winter. |
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Weed Control The most trublesome weeds are the perennial and deep-rooted types, especially couch grass and thistles, which have a habit of taking refuge among the bushes themselves and growing up through the lower branches. If this is permitted the rose definitely suffers and the weeds become almost impossible to eradicate. It is therefore important for roses to start in soil which is as free as possible from perennial weed infestation. Thus in the initial preparation of the ground, make sure that such weeds are dealt with severely. For those who prefer not to use chemicals, it is a case of backache and blisters, forking out all the roots and rhizomes from the soil all around the area to be planted. Any small pieces of root left in the ground will rapidly take hold and reinfest the soil with renewed vigour. Another far less obnoxious method of suppressing weeds is to spread a mulch of sterile material to a depth of 2-3 inches (5-7.5 cms) over the soil. Bark chippings make by far the best and are obtainable either from garden centres or direct from sawmills. Sawdust, too, can be used but it will be toxic unless it is from mature wood and, being light, may also blow about in dry weather. My Comment:- |
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How Soil Works in the Category Archives: Flowering House Plants of Houseplantsguru. com:- "Nature’s plan is to build up the humus year after year and this can only be done by organic matter. There is need Every flower crop grown reduces the organic content of the ground. Every piece of work done helps to break down Using Compost Garden owners proposing to dig their land shallowly in preparation for flower growing, should realize the It is when the organic content of the soil has been helped in this way, that the gardener dares to add plant foods Minimum Digging Flower growers must realize that proper soil treatment is the first essential to success. The millions and millions Liming Lime should be regarded as an essential except in very definite cases where acidity is demanded, e.g. the Lime not only prevents soil from being acid but it ‘sweetens’ it, as well as playing its part as a plant food. Generally speaking it should be applied at about 245 g/m2 (7 oz per sq yd). It should not be dug in, as it |
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The following is the opinion of Chris Garnons-Williams to the above:- If you walk through an old wooded area, which is not intensively managed, you will see dead leaves on the So, do not dig the manure, wool shoddy, vegetable refuse or hop manure or anything else in. Leave it on top The topsoil is full of organisms, either the waste products from are used by another or they are. If you turn So why do you not use the companion planting cultivation method as further detailed in Companion Planting? "Spinach is sown in spring in rows 50cm apart over the whole vegetable garden area for the following
This could be used in the flower beds as the system between the permanent plants of trees, shrubs |
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