See further photos in table on the right. |
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Flower. Photo from R.V. Roger Ltd |
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Rose Plant Name David Austin Roses names its roses |
Rosa 'Danse de Feu' (Syn. Rosa 'Spectacular') Danse du Feu is the Registration Name and "A brilliant rose with orange-scarlet flowers of medium size produced successionally during most of the summer." from Percy Thrower. |
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Common Name |
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Soil |
Roses prefer acidic soil of pH 6.5 (sand) but will tolerate alkaline soils up to pH 7.5 (chalk). Mix 25 litres farmyard manure, or pulverized tree bark with bone meal, in soil before planting. Broadcast rose fertilizer in early Spring. |
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Sun Aspect |
Full Sun. Tolerant of shade. |
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Soil Moisture |
Moist. |
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Plant Type |
Modern Roses: 17 Large-Flowered Climber Non-Recurrent from the Modern Climbing Roses classification. |
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Height x Spread in inches (cms) |
144 x 96 (360 x 240) |
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Foliage |
Dark Green |
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Flower Colour in Season. Hips |
Bright brick-red free-flowering rose with shapely buds opening flat and fully double. Flowering is Continuous throughout the summer. |
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Comment |
"A repeat flowering climbing rose. Also known as Spectacular. Small clusters of slightly scented, dark red blooms are produced repeatedly throughout the summer into the autumn. Foliage is an attractive green tinted bronze. Can be grown up a north facing wall. Hardy. Good disease resistance. Grows to 300-450cm in height." from British Roses.
"Fragrant, repeated double flowers of scarlet-orange. Outstanding display of colour all season into autumn. Height: 2.4m." from R.V. Roger Ltd.
"Bred by Charles Mallerin (France, 1953). Orange or orange-red. Orange-scarlet, vermilion. Scarlet, ageing to crimson-purple. None to mild fragrance. 23 to 33 petals. Average diameter 4". In small clusters, cupped-to-flat bloom form. Blooms in flushes throughout the season. Armed with thorns / prickles, climbing. Glossy, dark green foliage. Height of 7' to 12' (215 to 365 cm). USDA zone 6b through 9b (default).
Suitable for growing:
Recommended " planting distance is 72 inches (180 cms) apart" from Roses UK. Available from For further details on the cultivation of roses, consult the Royal National Rose Society. "A website devoted to roses, clematis and peonies and all that is gardening related, including selecting, buying, breeding, caring for and exhibiting. We have cataloged over 44,000 roses and have more than 160,000 photos along with thousands of Rose nurseries, public and private gardens, Rose societies, authors, breeders, hybridizers and publications from all over the world. Click Buy From tab on the Help Me Find page to locate sellers of this rose or Gardens tab to locate public, private and member gardens growing this rose." from Help Me Find in America. |
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Pruning Roses - the Sissinghurst Method and See Rose Index for further details of the 720 roses . WISLEY WISLEY Rose Classification System . |
ROSE PLANT GALLERY PAGE MENU Introduction MODERN CLIMBER ROSE TYPE SHAPE |
ROSE PLANT GALLERY PAGES Website Structure Explanation and User Guidelines
OLD GARDEN CLIMBER ROSE TYPE SHAPE BED PICTURES |
Closed Bud. |
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Open Bud. |
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Buds. |
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Juvenile Flower. |
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Middle-aged Flower. |
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Mature Flower. |
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Form. |
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Burgundy Juvenile Foliage through to Dark Green Mature Foliage. |
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"Climbing Rose Question Question: I have just bought a climbing rose called Danse du feu. I have planted it in an old chimney pot which is 18" tall and 9" in diameter. This is sitting on a 4" layer of gravel under which is concrete. I am training it onto a wicker climbing frame. Any suggestion on how and when to prune? Answer: Although pot growing roses can be successful, the eventual size of the bush is limited by the size of the root system. Not a problem with smaller bush roses but due to the length of the canes of climbers this can limit their growth and flowering. When digging up a well established bush, the thick roots you see are mostly anchor roots. The tiny feeder roots that supply nutrients and moisture to the plant normally are easily broken off and left in the soil. A good root system will be as large as the top growth. Providing a larger pot will fix the problem in the short run but overall the plant will not achieve it's full potential. As the pot fills with roots a dilute fertilizer should be supplied each time it's watered. Notice I said "dilute", not full strength? Manure tea would also work. I'd not plant a climber in anything smaller than a half barrel or a large tree pot. Climbing rose Danse du feu, also known as Spectacular. My sources show it to be a vigorous grower which means it will be severely stunted in the pot unless it is supplied with frequent fertilizings and waterings. It's not recommended to prune Climbers until after the first spring bloom. Your bush is listed as "recurrent blooms", which means it will have a spectacular first bloom and a smattering of flowers throughout the growing season with a possible fall bloom that will not match the spring's. Most climbers in this catagory will set blooms in the fall and blooms best on old wood from the previous year. Pruning in spring removes those blooms. Because it's recurrent, it will also produce a few blooms from new growth, but not many. You may remove damaged or dead cane tips in the spring but any other pruning should be done after the spring bloom. Over a period of years older canes will produce fewer flowers. This can be remedied by removing those old canes. This promotes new growth which will supply more flowers and will keep your bush vigorous. To train it onto a wicker climbing frame, tie the canes to the frame with soft ties or cord. Weaving them in the frame can make it hard to remove dead and damaged canes and also cause a problem if you wish to move the bush. If you live in a cold winter climate, some winter protection may be required to protect the canes or they may die back each winter. Wrapping the trellis and exposed canes with burlap may work as would removing the canes from the trellis each fall, laying them on the ground and covering them with leaves, soil or wood shavings. To prevent fungus diseases like blackspot, you should spray every week or 10 days with a fungicide such as Fertilome's Liquid Systemic Fungicide, Ortho's Funginex or other product labeled for roses.
I don't spray insecticides. Insects don't eat that much and, unless you are a prefect leaf freak or exhibitor, a few holes in the blooms or leaves don't hurt anything. Insecticide spraying will kill many beneficial insects which if left alone will naturally control harmful ones. If done, it should only be done to destroy existing insects and not as a preventative.
Hope this helps" from Rosenut - I am Karl Bapst, and I live in Northwest Indiana, Gardening Zone 5. My wife, Nancy, and I have been married since 1971. We have 6 children, all out of the nest. We have 21 grandchildren and 7 great-grandchildren. I survived a bout of acute leukemia in 1982 and am currently recovering from a massive stroke suffered in March of 2002. I am a Life Member and a Master Rosarian with the American Rose Society. I am also a Life Member of the National Home Gardening Club, an Advanced Master Gardener, and Master Composter through Purdue University, and member of the Duneland Rose Society of NW Indiana. I would welcome questions pertaining mainly to roses and composting but I have general knowledge of most other plants and access to answers to questions concerning many of them. I gave horticultural programs to various groups but have curtailed that somewhat. I moved in August of 2001 to a home in the country 40 miles south of Griffith, Indiana where I grew over 500 rosebushes lot of 60 by 135 feet. My house and 2 1/2 car garage also sat on this lot. I had a shade garden in an area I shared with a neighbor where we couldn't get anything else to grow. I also had an area on the north side of my house which would not support roses due to a lack of enough sunlight but it supported plants which grew nicely in semi-shade. A well installed in 1989, due to a large city water bill, to water some 95 newly planted roses, led to an eight zone automated watering system using schedule 40 PVC pipe and Dramm nozzles. I also utilized some drip watering on my back deck and in the front for hanging and potted plants. I had a 24' by 26’ wooden frame polyhouse built over three rose beds and my pond. I covered the frame with plastic in the winter. The small pond consisted of one and a half whiskey barrels for water falls, two small plastic formed ponds and a short connecting waterway. The pond supplied most of the heat during the winter nights and sunlight supplied the rest. I heated the pond in the winter with an animal stock tank heater which kept the water at 40 degrees. I overwintered goldfish and water plants for years and had frogs all winter long. Roses do not bloom in my zone 5 location until the end of May or first of June but I had roses blooming on April 1st in the polyhouse. I also had 3 compost bins and two compost barrels built from 55 gallon barrels. I composted all yard waste including my rose clippings and used a battery powered lawn mower and edge trimmer. 2001 to Present My new home sets on a ¾ acre oak wooded lot in the small farming community of Wheatfield, Indiana. I removed half the trees on the property to open up a slightly sloping hillside to the sun for the roses. After 30 years as a supervisor at Ford Motor Company's Chicago Assembly Plant, I retired on June 1, 1998. After retiring from Ford, boredom caused me to get a part time job at a Wal*Mart Garden Center in 2001 where I worked until suffering the stroke. After a week of getting stabilized I spent 4 weeks at a rehab facility. This was followed by 4 weeks of in-home physical therapy where I learned to walk and get around the house. I progressed to the point that I was able to return to my yard and polyhouse in the spring of 2003. I'm so busy that I need a planner to keep track of everything I have to do, something I was able to get along without before I retired . The stroke left me unable to hold a job but having turned 65 in June 2003, I think maybe it's time to stop and smell the roses before I'm pushing them up. When we moved I potted up and moved all my roses which over wintered in a big circle in the front yard covered with a foot of oak leaves. My intention was to planting them in their new homes in the spring of 2002. Due to the stroke which left me paralyzed on my left side I was unable to do as I planned. Well meaning friends and associates from my church, friends, rose society members, Master gardeners, and various neighbors had a planting party for me in June of 2002 and got them all planted. Many of the original roses did not survive the transplanting due lack of water and the hot dry summer. My wife's determination kept me from losing them all. She spent most of that summer pulling hoses, watering, and weeding the flower beds. Even though I still couldn’t use my left arm and walked like a drunken sailor I ordered roses for spring 2003 delivery to replace some of those that were lost. My son-in-law helped me reconstruct my greenhouse in the fall of 2002. Each spring I get 200 or more rooted hardy rooted cuttings from Great Lakes Roses in Michigan. I repot these into larger pots to mature in the green house. These are sold at rose society events, to folks who stop to admire the roses, and at a farmer’s market. A new well was installed to help to supply water to a sprinkling system that enabled us to retire the garden hoses and help the watering chores. I operate the lawn tractor and weed and care for the roses from the seat of a Rascal Scooter my son talked me into buying after I left the hospital. I’ve worn out one scooter and am on the 2nd. Although I can walk a little, the scooter provides mobility for me to get into the rose garden, greenhouse, and yard. It also allows me to travel. Nancy and I have been to 2 American Rose Society conventions in Philadelphia and New Orleans. I can still drive so we’ve also traveled to Florida a few times, flew to Hawaii, and will be going on an Alaskan cruise this fall 2006. I should add that without my wife’s help weeding and being my left hand when it’s needed, I’d be unable to do a lot of what I do! This year we’ve completed a shade garden with a pond that we can see from our kitchen table and cleared an area close to the house for a butterfly/humming bird garden. The stroke has forced me to find other ways to accomplish things I took for granted before. It’s taught me to adapt but it hasn’t kept me from my passion and hobby of growing Roses." |
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The following practical advice was written by Percy Thrower in his Percy Thrower's Practical Guides Roses and published by W.H. & L. Collingridge Ltd in 1964:- "Soils and Situations See Interaction between 2 Quartz Sand Grains to make soil page on how to add clay etc to a sandy soil and how to add sand to a clay soil to get a SOIL towards a Perfect general use soil, which is composed of 8.3% lime, 16.6% humus, 25% clay and 50% sand. "Organic matter is equally useful on clay soils to improve their texture and prevent them cracking in hot weather." A 150mm deep mulch of mixed peat, sharp washed sand and horticultural grit was applied on top of a heavy clay soil to improve its structure, and stop the plants therein from drowning in Soil Formation - What is Soil Texture? page. "While, of course, partly rotted organic materials provide the basis of nearly all natural plant food taken up by the roots, they also act as a sponge, holding on to soil moisture which should otherwise be lost. At the same time soil texture is improved enormously by the air spaces left as the material breaks down further into humuds and it is from this that clay soils particularly benefit. Humus. In Britain, unless you own the well-rotted farmyard manure, you cannot take it and transport it as a member of the public. You have to get the owner who could be a company or an individual to transport it to your property, which is why there are great heaps of the stuff lying on farmers and stable owners properties, which could benefit householder's gardens - another example of crass government stupidity. Any decayed vegetable matter may be used with advantage if well worked in. There must be tons of kitchen vegetable trimmings put into dustbins each year which could, and should, be added to the garden compost heap. When I was maintaining my customer's gardens, the gardens were too small to have large compost bins that I could apply sufficient prunings/weeds each fortnight for it to compost properly. So I advised my clients to have a small plastic dustbin under their sinks for vegetable and fruit peelings, used tea bags/coffee grounds and eggshells, which I could then apply to a newly weeded area in the garden as a 3 inch (7.5cm) deep mulch and cover over with a 0.5 inch (1 cm) layer of mown grass/mown prunings/mown removed weeds. That would decompose to produce humus, stop weed seeds germinating, stop the ground from drying out due to wind and sun; and reuse that organic matter for those garden plants. Cultivation The above cultivation is a pipedream in the modern gardens in Britain, since it is more than likely that there is a very little depth of topsoil below the turf, before you get to the subsoil of clay or sand with perhaps rubble on top of that subsoil. Planting
To these I would add insufficient firming of the soil, but I do not regard this as quite so serious as the other 3, particularly if roses are planted in the autumn, because the amount of rain we usually get in 1964 then soon consolidates the soil even if it has not been well trodden down in the first place. Arrival from nursery. His book will explain everything else you need to know!!! |
The following practical advice was written by Percy Thrower in his Percy Thrower's Practical Guides Roses and published by W.H. & L. Collingridge Ltd in 1964:- "Soils and Situations See Interaction between 2 Quartz Sand Grains to make soil page on how to add clay etc to a sandy soil and how to add sand to a clay soil to get a SOIL towards a Perfect general use soil, which is composed of 8.3% lime, 16.6% humus, 25% clay and 50% sand. "Organic matter is equally useful on clay soils to improve their texture and prevent them cracking in hot weather." A 150mm deep mulch of mixed peat, sharp washed sand and horticultural grit was applied on top of a heavy clay soil to improve its structure, and stop the plants therein from drowning in Soil Formation - What is Soil Texture? page. "While, of course, partly rotted organic materials provide the basis of nearly all natural plant food taken up by the roots, they also act as a sponge, holding on to soil moisture which should otherwise be lost. At the same time soil texture is improved enormously by the air spaces left as the material breaks down further into humuds and it is from this that clay soils particularly benefit. Humus. In Britain, unless you own the well-rotted farmyard manure, you cannot take it and transport it as a member of the public. You have to get the owner who could be a company or an individual to transport it to your property, which is why there are great heaps of the stuff lying on farmers and stable owners properties, which could benefit householder's gardens - another example of crass government stupidity. Any decayed vegetable matter may be used with advantage if well worked in. There must be tons of kitchen vegetable trimmings put into dustbins each year which could, and should, be added to the garden compost heap. When I was maintaining my customer's gardens, the gardens were too small to have large compost bins that I could apply sufficient prunings/weeds each fortnight for it to compost properly. So I advised my clients to have a small plastic dustbin under their sinks for vegetable and fruit peelings, used tea bags/coffee grounds and eggshells, which I could then apply to a newly weeded area in the garden as a 3 inch (7.5cm) deep mulch and cover over with a 0.5 inch (1 cm) layer of mown grass/mown prunings/mown removed weeds. That would decompose to produce humus, stop weed seeds germinating, stop the ground from drying out due to wind and sun; and reuse that organic matter for those garden plants. Cultivation The above cultivation is a pipedream in the modern gardens in Britain, since it is more than likely that there is a very little depth of topsoil below the turf, before you get to the subsoil of clay or sand with perhaps rubble on top of that subsoil. Planting
To these I would add insufficient firming of the soil, but I do not regard this as quite so serious as the other 3, particularly if roses are planted in the autumn, because the amount of rain we usually get in 1964 then soon consolidates the soil even if it has not been well trodden down in the first place. Arrival from nursery. His book will explain everything else you need to know!!!
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I Can Garden has information like this:- "Spring 2013 promises to be “Rose Heaven” for fans of David Austin Roses. The famous Shropshire, England rose breeder is introducing six exquisite new English Rose varieties to North America. The six varieties – deliciously fragrant and robust, season-long repeat bloomers -- are available by mail order from www.davidaustinroses.com. The six new English Roses are:- ‘Wollerton Old Hall’, a beautiful chalice-shaped, creamy-apricot colored rose considered to be one of the most fragrant English Roses of all time with a delicious strong myrrh scent with elements of citrus; ‘Lady Salisbury’, a plump, multi-petalled pure pink rose with great Old Rose charm; ‘Fighting Temeraire’, an abundantly-blooming, rich apricot rose with an award-winning fruity fragrance with notes of lemon zest; ‘England’s Rose’, a particularly tough and reliable variety with glowing pink flowers and a strong Old Rose fragrance with a warm spicy character; ‘Queen Anne’ with pure rose-pink flowers, few thorns and an appealing full-bodied Old Rose fragrance; ‘The Lady’s Blush’ a lightly-scented, semi-double, soft pink rose with lovely open flowers exhibiting unusual grace and freshness. David Austin’s English Roses are known for combining the romantic flower forms and perfume of Old Roses with the broad color range and repeat-flowering of modern roses. As a rose breeder, David Austin’s achievement is in marrying this lovely “English Rose” look with tough-as-nails garden performance, vigorous growth, full bushes, disease resistance and prolific season-long bloom. English Roses are suited to growing in full sun or partial shade provided the site is not overhung by tree canopies. Gardeners who long to recreate the English cottage garden style in their yard can rest assured that these are roses with passports. They are not only grown in England, but are truly world travelers, found throughout the U.S.A. and Canada and, indeed, in every rose growing country in the world. All David Austin roses sold in North America are specially selected for North American growing conditions and climate zones. All are grown and shipped within North America. Also available free upon request, is David Austin’s award-winning catalog, "The Handbook of Roses 2013," a must-have for rose lovers, with 120 pages of color illustrations." from Six New David Austin English Roses by Sally Ferguson. October 21, 2012 |
How to grow and care for roses in Australia. and All the Rose Index Tables are in the Rose Plants Site Map Page. There are further details on roses in the Plants section. |
"The 5 P’s For Easy Rose Growing 1. Planning 2. Preparation 3. Planting 4. Pruning 5. Preservation Planning Try to plan well in advance of purchasing your roses. Roses come in a multitude of sizes, habits and colours. They prefer a sunny position and a neutral or slightly acidic well drained soil. Certain roses will tolerate differing degrees of shade and some will thrive in poor soils. Do your homework. Preparation The area to be planted should be free of weeds and deeply dug with the addition of plenty of organic matter such as well rotted farmyard manure or garden compost plus bonemeal. Soil that has previously grown roses should be removed to a depth of 45cms and replaced with fresh soil from elsewhere. This should be completed well before planting to allow the soil to settle. Planting Bare root roses can be planted from November until March provided the soil is workable. Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the roots. Mix a handful of bonemeal with the excavated soil. Spread the roots out in the hole and gradually replace the soil firming well so the union (where the shoots meet the roots) is 2-3 cms. below the soil, water well. If conditions are very wet or frosty when your roses arrive they can be kept unopened in their packaging for a week or more and planted as soon as things improve. Pruning This is a way to maintain a healthy, productive and well balanced plant. Different types of roses require different strategies so see the group headings on the website for more detailed pruning guides. Always use sharp secateurs or loppers and try to prune just above an outward facing bud (where the leaf stalk meets the stem) with a cut sloping down away from the bud. Remove any dead, damaged or diseased wood before pruning. Preservation Roses can be long lived plants provided they are properly maintained. They require plenty of moisture and nutrients to stay healthy and flourish. In dry spells water well, especially in the first few years after planting. The application of a deep mulch in the spring will help to retain water. Feed twice a year on heavy soils (March and June) and more regularly on lighter soils with a good rose fertilizer or fish blood and bone. Pests and diseases are best controlled with good husbandry. There are some good organic products on the market now that can be used to help maintain your plants health. Any suckers (shoots growing from the rootstock) should be pulled off (not cut) as soon as possible." from Trevor White Old Fashioned Roses.
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"Pruning roses - the sissinghurst method Pruning roses the Sissinghurst way helps create those wonderful fountains of roses you see in summer gardens - delicious-smelling, out-of-control geysers of flowers that effuse all over the garden. Pruning roses like this means you don't get those boring little twiggy bushes, all leg and no body, surrounded by bare ground. The Sissinghurst rose pruning technique originated at Cliveden with the Astors' head gardener Jack Vass, who moved to Sissinghurst in 1939. Vita Sackville-West loved her roses, particularly the dark, rich Gallicas such as 'Charles de Mills', 'Tuscany Superb' and 'Cardinal de Richelieu', but it was Jack Vass who started to grow them in this exceptional way, and roses have been pruned and trained like this at Sissinghurst ever since. Other National Trust properties send their gardeners here to learn this ingenious technique. The rose pruning philosophy can be summed up as "treat them mean, keep them keen". If you put every stem of a rose plant under pressure, bending and stressing it, the rose will flower more prolifically. The plant's biochemistry tells the bush it's on the way out and so needs to make as many flowers as possible. THE SISSINGHURST ROSE PRUNING TECHNIQUE Climbers and ramblers The rose pruning season at Sissinghurst starts in November with the climbers and ramblers that cover almost every one of the terracotta brick walls. First, the gardeners cut off most of that year's growth. This keeps the framework of the rose clear and prevents the plant from becoming too woody. Next, large woody stems are taken out - almost to the base - to encourage new shoots. These will flower the following year. The remaining branches are re-attached to the wall, stem by stem, starting from the middle of the plant, working outwards, with the pruned tip of each branch bent down and attached to the one below. Climbers such as 'Paul's Lemon Pillar' are a bit more reluctant than ramblers like 'Albertine' and the famous Rosa mulliganii on the frame in the centre of the White Garden, which are very bendy and easy to train. Shrub roses Once the wall roses are done, it's the turn of the border shrubs. They should be pruned before they come into leaf to prevent leaf buds and shoots from being damaged as their stems are manipulated. Depending on their habit, shrub roses are trained in one of three ways. The tall, rangy bushes with stiffer branches (such as 'Charles de Mills', 'Ispahan', 'Gloire de France', 'Cardinal de Richelieu' and 'Camayeux') are twirled up a frame of four chestnut or hazel poles. Every pruned tip is bent and attached to a length below. The big leggy shrubs, which put out great, pliable, triffid arms that are easy to tie down and train, are bent on to hazel hoops arranged around the skirts of the plant. Roses with this lax habit include 'Constance Spry', 'Fantin-Latour', 'Zéphirine Drouhin', 'Madame Isaac Pereire', 'Coupe d'Hébé', 'Henri Martin' and 'Souvenir du Dr Jamain'. All the old and diseased wood is removed and then, stem by stem, last year's wood is bent over and tied onto the hazel hoop. You start at the outside of the plant and tie that in first and then move towards the middle, using the plant's own branches to build up the web and - in the case of 'Constance Spry' and 'Henri Martin' - create a fantastic height, one layer domed and attached to the one below. Without any sign of a flower, this looks magnificent as soon as it's complete, and in a couple of months, each stem, curved almost to ground level, will flower abundantly. That leaves just the contained, well behaved, less prolific varieties ('Petite de Hollande', 'Madame Knorr', 'Chapeau de Napoléon', ( syn. Rosa x centifolia 'Cristata') and those that produce branches too stiff to bend ('Felicia' and the newish David Austin rose, 'William Shakespeare 2000'). These are pruned hard, then each bush is attached to a single stake, cut to about the height of the pruned bush and attached by twine. Without the stake, even these will topple under the weight of their summer growth. For those who live in the North, where some roses are yet to leaf, you could get bending now. If your roses are already too advanced for this year, come and see how it's all done at Sissinghurst." from Sarah Raven. |
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Peter Beales Roses - An illustrated encyclopedia and grower's handbook of species roses, old roses and modern roses, shrub roses and climbers by Peter Beales (ISBN 0-00-272178-3) is an excellent book concerning roses and what can be grown in different parts of the world. Excellent Roses I think that the following shrubs are excellent roses for their type:- |
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Bloom Colour |
Rose Type |
Rose Name |
Height x Width in inches (cms) |
Comments |
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Shrubs |
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Apricot |
Flori-bunda Shrub 5 |
36 x 24 inches (90-60 cms) |
Excellent for bedding, hedging and in pots. Moderately fragrant blooms. |
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Apricot |
Patio Bush 8 |
36 x 24 inches (90-60 cms) |
The most popular selling rose in England. Use for bedding, in hedges or pots. |
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Apricot fading to pink |
Hybrid Tea Shrub 4 |
42 x 24 (105 x 60) |
One of the best roses ever raised and popular for bedding, hedging, and growing in pots; with thorny stems. |
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Reddish-Brown |
Flori-bunda Shrub 5 |
36 x 32 (90 x 80) |
Awarded the accolade of novelty rose 2006. Use for bedding and in pots. |
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Crimson-Purple |
Modern Shrub 2 |
72 x 60 (180 x 150) |
One of the best-loved rugosas. Use for impenetrable fragrant flowered hedge |
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Red |
Mini-flora Shrub 6a |
18 x 18 inches (45-45 cms) |
Award of Excellence in 2003. Use for bedding and in pots. Moderately fragrant. |
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Red and Crimson |
Flori-bunda Shrub 5 |
18 x 18 inches (45-45 cms) |
Bronze tinted dark green foliage on reliable ground cover. Also for use in bedding, hedging and pots. |
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Crimson |
Hybrid Tea Shrub 4 |
30 x 24 inches (75-60 cms) |
A good all-rounder which is suitable for bedding or planting in groups as bushes or standards with outstanding sweet fragrance |
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Crimson |
Flori-bunda Shrub 5 |
30 x 24 inches (75-60 cms) |
Excellent for bedding, hedging, in pots and for non-fragrant cut bloom. |
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Crimson red with white eye |
Flori-bunda Shrub 5 |
36 x 24 inches (90-60 cms) |
Excellent for bedding and hedges. |
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Orange-red |
Flor-bunda Shrub 5 |
36 x 24 inches (90-60 cms) |
Use for bedding, hedging and slightly fragrant cut flower for the house and exhibition. |
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Crimson |
Gallica Shrub 25 |
36 x 36 inches (90-90 cms) |
In the Middle Ages its scent-retaining properties were much valued by apothecaries. Use for Hedging, cutting and in pots. Rosa gallica versicolor is its striped bloom sport. |
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Crimson |
Hybrid Tea Shrub 4 |
48 x 24 inches (120-60 cms) |
Rose of the Year 1987. Ideal for bedding, grow in pots and as a very fragrant cut flower |
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Crimson |
Modern Shrub 2 |
48 x 36 inches (120-90 cms) |
Healthy very floriferous grower, makes a good hedge or speciman bush 4-6 feet high. |
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Red |
Hybrid Tea Shrub 4 |
54 x 24 (135 x 60) |
Use in bedding, in pots and as a very fragrant cut bloom |
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Crimson |
Moss Shrub 27 |
60 x 48 inches (150-120 cms) |
Well worth growing for the sheer quantity of very fragrant blooms produced. Use for Hedging |
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Vermilion |
Modern Shrub 1 |
78 x 48 (195 x 120) |
Ideal for the back of the border or for hedging. Good for cutting. |
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Crimson |
Wild Roses Shrub 38 |
120 x 72 (300 x 180) |
Shrub with hips in the autumn. Use as wall plant, or for Woodland and covert planting. |
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Orange |
Mini-ature Bush 8 |
15 x 15 (38 x 38) |
Easy to grow. Good for close-density bedding, in pots or external window boxes. Exhibition variety and slightly fragrant cut flower. |
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Orange |
Hybrid Tea Shrub 4 |
24 x 24 inches (60-60 cms) |
Use in bedding and pots. Moderate fragrance. |
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Orange |
Hybrid Tea Shrub 4 |
30 x 18 inches (75-45 cms) |
Rose of the Year 1993. Use as bedding. |
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Orange |
Hybrid Tea Shrub 4 |
36 x 24 inches (90-60 cms) |
Extremely free flowering and very fragrant. Use for bedding and hedging. |
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Pink |
Poly-antha Shrub 7 |
24 x 18 inches (60-45 cms) |
Bedding, Ground-cover and in pots. Slightly fragrant. |
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Pink |
Flori-bunda Shrub 5 |
24 x 24 inches (60-60 cms) |
Use for bedding, hedging and in pots. Slightly fragrant. |
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Pink |
Hybrid Tea Shrub 4 |
30 x 24 (75 x 60) |
Very fragrant and a good cut flower. |
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Pink |
Mini-ature Bush 8 |
30 x 30 inches (75-75 cms) |
Used in cut flower production throughout the world |
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Pink |
Flori-bunda Shrub 5 |
36 x 24 inches (90-60 cms) |
Excellent for bedding, hedging, in pots and slightly fragrant cut blooms. |
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Pink |
China Shrub 23 |
48 x 24 inches (120-60 cms) |
Compact growth makes it perfect for the front of the border. |
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Pink |
Modern Shrub 2 |
48 x 48 inches (120-120 cms) |
Grows almost anywhere. Good autumn foliage and hips. Can be used as ground cover and grown in pots. |
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Pink |
Modern Shrub 2 |
48 x 48 inches (120-120 cms) |
Fragrant Specimen plant. |
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Pink |
Flor-bunda Shrub 5 |
60 x 30 (150 x 75) |
Outstanding vigorous, upright, and reliable for hedging, in pots and slightly fragrant cut flowers. |
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Pink |
Modern Shrub 10 |
120 x 72 (300 x 180) |
The flowers of this native rose provide food for the bees and the hips provide food for the birds, in hedges. |
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Purple-violet |
Hybrid Tea Shrub 4 |
36-60 x 18 (90-150 x 45) |
Use for bedding, growing in pots and very fragrant cut flower. |
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White |
Hybrid Tea Shrub 4 |
30 x 24 (75 x 60) |
Use for bedding, growing in pots and as a slightly fragrant superb cut flower. |
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White |
Flor-bunda Shrub 5 |
30 x 24 (75 x 60) |
Use for bedding, hedging, in pots and very fragrant cut flowers. |
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White |
Flori-bunda Shrub 5 |
36 x 24 inches (90-60 cms) |
One of the best Floribundas ever raised and the most popular white Floribunda. Use for bedding hedging, in pots and moderate fragrance cut flowers. |
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White |
Mini-ature Bush 8 |
36 x 30 inches (90-75 cms) |
Best exhibit show mini |
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White |
Port-land Shrub 28 |
36 x 36 inches (90-90 cms) |
Good thorny impenetrable hedge |
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White |
Modern Shrub 2 |
60 x 48 inches (150-120 cms) |
Good thorny rugosa impenetrable hedge |
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White |
Modern Shrub 2 |
60 x 48 inches (150-120 cms) |
Fragrant flowers on arching shoots in a hedge |
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Growing Roses in Containers Select large terracotta pots or deep half barrels for soil volume and root stability. Place the pot onto feet and add a drainage layer of 1" depth of pea-shingle at the bottom with 1" layer of Cotton Wool on top to prevent the compost mixture from mixing with the pea-shingle, so that the plants cannot drown or be continuosly waterlogged. Pot up in November with bare root plants using 4 parts by volume of John Innes No 3 with 1 part of either Multi-Purpose Compost or 1 of cow manure. The plant should receive sunshine for at least half the day, with the pot being in shade. Top-dress with granular rose fertiliser in the Spring; avoid feeding after August and replace the compost every second year. Grow the following patio and miniature roses in 14 inch deep pots and ground cover, half-standards or climbing roses in minimum of 18 inch deep pots:- Climbers
Ground Cover
Miniature and patio roses
Half-Standards
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Yellow |
Hybrid Tea Shrub 4 |
18 x 24 (45 x 60) |
Very popular short dense plant with thorny stems |
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Yellow |
Ground Cover 10 |
24 x 120 (60 x 300) |
Ground cover use and in pots. Slightly fragrant blooms. |
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Yellow |
Flori-bunda Shrub 5 |
24 x 24 inches (60-60 cms) |
Use for bedding, growing in pots and moderately fragrant cut flower. |
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Yellow |
Hybrid Tea Shrub 4 |
30 x 24 (75 x 60) |
One of the best Hybrid Teas for bedding and mass planting with moderate fragrance and retention of bloom colour |
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Yellow |
Modern Shrub 2 |
36 x 36 inches (90-90 cms) |
Compact shrub with plenty of foliage for use in bedding. |
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Yellow |
Modern Shrub 1 |
48 x 36 inches (120-90 cms) |
Good for Hedging, or growing in pots. |
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Yellow |
Hybrid Tea Shrub 4 |
48 x 36 inches (120-90 cms) |
Perhaps the best known and loved rose of all time. Use for hedges, as a slightly fragrant cut flower and for exhibition. Chicago Peace is identical to Rosa 'Peace' except for colour, which is a coppery yellow base overlaid with deep pink. |
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Yellow |
Flori-bunda Shrub 5 |
48 x 36 inches (120-90 cms) |
Use as a free-standing shrub, bedding or hedging with very fragrant blooms. |
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Yellow |
Modern Shrub 2 |
60 x 60 (150 x 150) |
Vigorous Hedge with strongly scented flowers continuously through the summer. |
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Yellow |
Modern Shrub 10 |
84 X 60 (210 x 150) |
A very fragrant flowering shrub in the Spring only and use for Hedging |
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Yellow |
Modern Shrub 10 |
120 x 96 (300 x 240) |
Superb climber as a pillar rose, on walls, fences or into trees with moderate fragrance. |
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Apricot and Pink |
Mini-ature Bush 8 |
12 x 24 (30 x 60) |
Excellent compact exhibition rose for edging borders. Spice fragrant blooms drop off cleanly. |
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Yellow and Red |
Mini-ature Bush 8 |
24 x 24 inches (60-60 cms) |
Use for bedding, pot, cut flower and outstanding for exhibition |
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Yellow and Red |
Hybrid Tea Shrub 4 |
30 x 24 (75 x 60) |
Use for bedding, hedges and growing in pots. Slight fragrance. |
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Orange, Red and Yellow |
Flori-bunda Shrub 5 |
30 x 24 (75 x 60) |
Tolerates shade. Use for bedding, hedging and for slight fragrance cut flower. |
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Apricot yellow and pink |
Hybrid Tea Shrub 4 |
36 x 18 (90 x 45) |
Excellent cut flower and moderately fragrant. |
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Pink, Apricot and ivory |
Flori-bunda Shrub 5 |
36 x 24 inches (90-60 cms) |
Reliable upright rose for bedding, in pots and very fragrant cut flower. |
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Excellent Roses I think that the following Climbers are excellent in their type:- |
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Bloom Colour |
Rose Type |
Rose Name |
Height x Width in inches |
Comments |
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Climbers/Ramblers |
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Apricot |
Clim-ber 17 |
120 x 72 (300 x 180) |
Reliable climber and moderately fragrant cut flowers. |
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Lavender -Purple flecked with White |
Ram-bler 16 |
180 x 144 (450 x 360) |
The blue Rose is an ideal and beautiful companion for cream and white ramblers when grown through old trees or supported on a wall facing any direction. Moderately fragrant. |
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Pink |
Modern Clim-ber 13 |
120 x 72 (300 x 180) |
Superb climber as a pillar rose, on walls, fences or into pergolas. Very fragrant cut flower. |
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Pink |
Bour-bon Shrub 21 |
120 x 72 (300 x 180) |
Thornless shoots with very fragrant blooms on a pillar rose, or climber which can be grown into trees. |
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Pink |
Ram-bler 16 |
120 x 96 (300 x 240) |
Ideal smaller rambling rose with very fragrant blooms. |
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Pink |
Clim-ber 17 |
144 x 96 (360 x 240) |
One of the outstanding modern climbers with moderate fragrance, excellent foliage and tolerant of shade. |
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Pink |
Clim-ber 17 |
180 x 120 (450 x 300) |
One of the most popular climbers of the 1930s. Used for hedges, grown into trees and provides very fragrant cut flowers. |
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Pink |
Clim-ber 17 |
180 x 120 (450 x 300) |
A climbing rose of exceptional vigour. If it is not dead-headed it produces superb, large, orange-red hips in the autumn. |
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Red |
Clim-ber 17 |
84 x 60 (210 x 150) |
A very good Pillar Rose as well as a large shrub or a hedge; with slightly fragrant blooms. |
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Red |
Modern Clim-ber 13 |
120 x 72 (300 x 180) |
Vigorous and disease resistant. Use as Climber, Pillar rose, in trees and in pots. Slightly fragrant blooms. |
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White |
Clim-ber 17 |
144 x 96 (360 x 240) |
One of the best white climbers. Very fragrant cut blooms. |
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White |
Ram-bler 16 |
180 x 120 (450 x 300) |
One of the best ramblers for growing into trees. Slightly fragrant blooms. |
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White |
Noisette Climber 36 |
180 x 120 (450 x 300) |
Growth is vigorous with sparse thorns. It flowers almost continuously throughout the season and is quite tolerant of a North-facing wall situation. Moderately fragrant Climber or Pillar rose. Grow into trees. Good for cutting. |
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White |
Ram-bler 16 |
240 x 180 (600 x 450) |
Superb as a tree or hedgerow climber with fragrant flowers and small hips in the autumn. |
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White |
Ram-bler 16 |
300 x 216 (750 x 540) |
An established plant in full flush of highly scented flower is a sight to remember. Grow into trees |
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White |
Clim-ber 18 |
360 x 180 (900 x 450) |
Thornless stems growth is rampant, capable of festooning tall trees. |
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Yellow |
Clim-ber 13 |
96 x 36 (240 x 90) |
Constantly in non-fragrant flower during the Summer. Use as Pillar Rose or in Pots |
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Yellow |
Ram-bler 16 |
180 x 120 (450 x 300) |
An outstanding moderately fragrant rose. Very floriferous on a vigorous plant. |
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This plant gallery has thumbnail pictures of rose flowers in the following colours:-
This plant gallery has thumbnail pictures of rose foliage in the following colours:-
Rose Class This plant gallery has bloom thumbnail pictures of Modern Roses from the World Federation of Rose Societies Rose Classes in the following classes as adopted by the British National Rose Society last century:-
This plant gallery has bloom thumbnail pictures of Old Garden Roses from the World Federation of Rose Societies Rose Classes in the following classes as adopted by the British National Rose Society last century:-
This plant gallery has overall shape thumbnail pictures of Wild Roses from the World Federation of Rose Societies Rose Classes in the following classes as adopted by the British National Rose Society last century:-
Thie Rose Plant 2 gallery has thumbnail pictures of rose hips with their colour:- If you click on a thumbnail another window opens with up to 9 larger images (Flower, Foliage, Flower Bud, Old Garden Roses Group Plant Shape or Modern Roses Group shape and Hips- for Flower, Foliage, Shape and Hip pages) and the following plant description:-
The Site Map for Individual Rose Plants gives you access to the above 9 larger images and plant description for all the plants detailed in this Rose Plant Gallery in alphabetical order following the Old Garden Roses or Modern Roses Group name. The Rose Plant 2 gallery has pictures of (o) rose flower beds with description. Together with the Plants, Companion Planting and Offbeat Glossary sections of this website, these photographs should aid your choice of plant for your garden. Most of this gallery photographs were provided by Chris Garnons-Williams, and others by R. V. Roger and Christine Foord. |
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Site design and content copyright ©November 2009. DISCLAIMER: Links to external sites are provided as a courtesy to visitors. Ivydene Horticultural Services is not responsible for the content and/or quality of external web sites linked from this site. |
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343 Roses with only bloom colour, rose use and rose name in this Index menu of Roses from Rose Plant Gallery, where they came from the nursery of R.V. Roger, who gave permission for me to use his photos from his website, and this gallery was created in 2007-2009. Index of 147 Roses with only bloom, photo, rose use, rose name, rose class number, height and width in this Index menu of Roses from Other Roses A-F , Other Roses G-R , Other Roses S-Z Galleries, where they were the extra Roses that I took photos of in the nursery field of R.V. Roger Nurseries in 2014 is in the Rose Plant Site Map Page. |
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Copied from Ivydene Gardens Other Roses S-Z Gallery: |
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Click for further details on WISLEY WISLEY Rose Plant Classification System:- Rosa Wisley 2008 'AUSbreeze' is:-
Normal Rose Plant Classification System:- Now you should not confuse the above system with the usual retail name of Rosa 'Wisley 2008' (Ausbreeze) by Austin Roses where
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G. |
N. |
U.
Roses in this Gallery Rose Name Link followed by Rose Colour Link on next line:- Other followed by Rose Use:- Arc for Arch, Pergola
Flower Shape Petal Count If there is no colour following the plant name, this indicates that this name is either .......................
Rose INDEX Page includes bloom colour thumbnail, rose use, height and width with link to its Rose Description Page. |
A. |
H. Hot Chocolate |
O.
"Roses UK is a joint marketing venture between BARB (British Association Of Rose Breeders) and the British Rose Group of the HTA (previously known as the British Rose Growers Association) aimed at maintaining and increasing the profile of the nation's favourite flower, the rose, through promotional activities. Amongst its major activities is included responsibility for the organisation of the annual rose festival held at the RHS Hampton Court Palace Flower Show. Roses UK also manages the Rose of the Year trials - a competition that has been running since 1982 and one that is designed to select, through nationwide trials, the best of new rose introductions, entered by professional rose breeders, for a given year. The Gold Standard Rose Trial, independently managed by NIAB (National Institute of Agricultural Botany in Cambridge) on behalf of the British Association of Rose Breeders (BARB) is also promoted by Roses UK. ROSES UK IS NEITHER A RETAILER NOR WHOLESALER OF ROSES". |
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B. |
I. |
P. |
W. |
C. |
J. |
The Royal National Rose Society is "is not only the world’s oldest specialist plant society but the foremost global authority on the cultivation and care of the rose. Established in 1876, the RNRS now has a membership that spans the globe and includes many affiliated horticultural societies and research libraries, as well as thousands of rose- loving individuals. Today, the RNRS is best known for its flagship Gardens of the Rose at Chiswell Green in Hertfordshire, on the outskirts of St Albans. Opened 50 years ago by the then Patron of the Society, the Princess Royal, The Gardens of the Rose offer five acres of stunning displays of tens of thousands of roses, both traditional and contemporary, complemented by a huge selection of companion plants. A major objective is the administration of the RNRS International rose trials which are open to both professional and amateur rose breeders. Visit our International Rose Trials page for some background to the trialling process. The Society is also recognised as a governing body in the administration of showing and judging roses in the UK. Visit our shows area page for details of forthcoming events." |
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D. |
K.
"Find That Rose, the guide for rose lovers in the UK is now in its 31st year (2014). This website is based on the variety and Growers details, and also gives you planting and care advice. There are roses for every situation. Breeders over the last decade or so have increased the choice with Patio/Courtyard climbers...suitable for the smaller gardens where taller and wider climbers are just too big. The Book Find That Rose is designed to: Help you find the rose of your choice To help you contact specialist Rose Growers and suppliers Discover who supplies roses mail order Advise you which rose growers export Help retailers and local authorities find a wholesale grower Details of the 31st Edition of Find That Rose….. the book: Listing approx. 3,550 varieties available in the UK Approximately 200 new varieties listed in the 31st Edition. 46 growers/suppliers featured. New for the 31st Edition - Dates of Variety Introductions. Help in tracing a variety with a particular Christian name, or one for a special event. Details on where you can see roses in bloom this summer. All this and a Rose Discount voucher towards purchases of roses from select members. To get the full pictures… i.e. the Book Find That Rose see request a Brochure" |
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Y. |
E. |
L. |
S. |
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M. |
T. |
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Further links to Roses for:-
Companion Plants for Roses:-
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Site design and content copyright ©October 2014. Updated flower colour page links from Rose Plant Gallery to Rose Plant 2 Gallery June 2024. Chris Garnons-Williams. DISCLAIMER: Links to external sites are provided as a courtesy to visitors. Ivydene Horticultural Services is not responsible for the content and/or quality of external web sites linked from this site. |
"Pruning roses - the sissinghurst method Pruning roses the Sissinghurst way helps create those wonderful fountains of roses you see in summer gardens - delicious-smelling, out-of-control geysers of flowers that effuse all over the garden. Pruning roses like this means you don't get those boring little twiggy bushes, all leg and no body, surrounded by bare ground. The Sissinghurst rose pruning technique originated at Cliveden with the Astors' head gardener Jack Vass, who moved to Sissinghurst in 1939. Vita Sackville-West loved her roses, particularly the dark, rich Gallicas such as 'Charles de Mills', 'Tuscany Superb' and 'Cardinal de Richelieu', but it was Jack Vass who started to grow them in this exceptional way, and roses have been pruned and trained like this at Sissinghurst ever since. Other National Trust properties send their gardeners here to learn this ingenious technique. The rose pruning philosophy can be summed up as "treat them mean, keep them keen". If you put every stem of a rose plant under pressure, bending and stressing it, the rose will flower more prolifically. The plant's biochemistry tells the bush it's on the way out and so needs to make as many flowers as possible. THE SISSINGHURST ROSE PRUNING TECHNIQUE Climbers and ramblers The rose pruning season at Sissinghurst starts in November with the climbers and ramblers that cover almost every one of the terracotta brick walls. First, the gardeners cut off most of that year's growth. This keeps the framework of the rose clear and prevents the plant from becoming too woody. Next, large woody stems are taken out - almost to the base - to encourage new shoots. These will flower the following year. The remaining branches are re-attached to the wall, stem by stem, starting from the middle of the plant, working outwards, with the pruned tip of each branch bent down and attached to the one below. Climbers such as 'Paul's Lemon Pillar' are a bit more reluctant than ramblers like 'Albertine' and the famous Rosa mulliganii on the frame in the centre of the White Garden, which are very bendy and easy to train. Shrub roses Once the wall roses are done, it's the turn of the border shrubs. They should be pruned before they come into leaf to prevent leaf buds and shoots from being damaged as their stems are manipulated. Depending on their habit, shrub roses are trained in one of three ways. The tall, rangy bushes with stiffer branches (such as 'Charles de Mills', 'Ispahan', 'Gloire de France', 'Cardinal de Richelieu' and 'Camayeux') are twirled up a frame of four chestnut or hazel poles. Every pruned tip is bent and attached to a length below. The big leggy shrubs, which put out great, pliable, triffid arms that are easy to tie down and train, are bent on to hazel hoops arranged around the skirts of the plant. Roses with this lax habit include 'Constance Spry', 'Fantin-Latour', 'Zéphirine Drouhin', 'Madame Isaac Pereire', 'Coupe d'Hébé', 'Henri Martin' and 'Souvenir du Dr Jamain'. All the old and diseased wood is removed and then, stem by stem, last year's wood is bent over and tied onto the hazel hoop. You start at the outside of the plant and tie that in first and then move towards the middle, using the plant's own branches to build up the web and - in the case of 'Constance Spry' and 'Henri Martin' - create a fantastic height, one layer domed and attached to the one below. Without any sign of a flower, this looks magnificent as soon as it's complete, and in a couple of months, each stem, curved almost to ground level, will flower abundantly. That leaves just the contained, well behaved, less prolific varieties ('Petite de Hollande', 'Madame Knorr', 'Chapeau de Napoléon', ( syn. Rosa x centifolia 'Cristata') and those that produce branches too stiff to bend ('Felicia' and the newish David Austin rose, 'William Shakespeare 2000'). These are pruned hard, then each bush is attached to a single stake, cut to about the height of the pruned bush and attached by twine. Without the stake, even these will topple under the weight of their summer growth. For those who live in the North, where some roses are yet to leaf, you could get bending now. If your roses are already too advanced for this year, come and see how it's all done at Sissinghurst." from Sarah Raven. |
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"The 5 P’s For Easy Rose Growing 1. Planning 2. Preparation 3. Planting 4. Pruning 5. Preservation Planning Try to plan well in advance of purchasing your roses. Roses come in a multitude of sizes, habits and colours. They prefer a sunny position and a neutral or slightly acidic well drained soil. Certain roses will tolerate differing degrees of shade and some will thrive in poor soils. Do your homework. Preparation The area to be planted should be free of weeds and deeply dug with the addition of plenty of organic matter such as well rotted farmyard manure or garden compost plus bonemeal. Soil that has previously grown roses should be removed to a depth of 45cms and replaced with fresh soil from elsewhere. This should be completed well before planting to allow the soil to settle. Planting Bare root roses can be planted from November until March provided the soil is workable. Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the roots. Mix a handful of bonemeal with the excavated soil. Spread the roots out in the hole and gradually replace the soil firming well so the union (where the shoots meet the roots) is 2-3 cms. below the soil, water well. If conditions are very wet or frosty when your roses arrive they can be kept unopened in their packaging for a week or more and planted as soon as things improve. Pruning This is a way to maintain a healthy, productive and well balanced plant. Different types of roses require different strategies so see the group headings on the website for more detailed pruning guides. Always use sharp secateurs or loppers and try to prune just above an outward facing bud (where the leaf stalk meets the stem) with a cut sloping down away from the bud. Remove any dead, damaged or diseased wood before pruning. Preservation Roses can be long lived plants provided they are properly maintained. They require plenty of moisture and nutrients to stay healthy and flourish. In dry spells water well, especially in the first few years after planting. The application of a deep mulch in the spring will help to retain water. Feed twice a year on heavy soils (March and June) and more regularly on lighter soils with a good rose fertilizer or fish blood and bone. Pests and diseases are best controlled with good husbandry. There are some good organic products on the market now that can be used to help maintain your plants health. Any suckers (shoots growing from the rootstock) should be pulled off (not cut) as soon as possible." from Trevor White Old Fashioned Roses. |