Rose Plant Name

David Austin Roses names its roses
Rosa 'Cultivar Name/ Introduced Name' (Registration Name or Breeder's Name - AUScerise is AUS for Breeder Code and cerise is the name). The 'Cultivar Name' is used by the public to buy that Rose and the Registration Name is used by the Trade to buy that Rose. Help Me Find will identify the retail name used from the Registration Name used on the label. See the RHS classification system, comment row in England's Rose and Rosa 'Wildfire'.

Rosa 'Danse de Feu'

(Syn. Rosa 'Spectacular')

Danse du Feu is the Registration Name and
Spectacular is the Exhibition Name with
Danse de Feu being the Cultivar Name at R.V. Roger Ltd.

"A brilliant rose with orange-scarlet flowers of medium size produced successionally during most of the summer." from Percy Thrower.

Common Name

---

Soil

Roses prefer acidic soil of pH 6.5 (sand) but will tolerate alkaline soils up to pH 7.5 (chalk). Mix 25 litres farmyard manure, or pulverized tree bark with bone meal, in soil before planting. Broadcast rose fertilizer in early Spring.

Sun Aspect

Full Sun.

Tolerant of shade.

Soil Moisture

Moist.

Plant Type

Modern Roses: 17 Large-Flowered Climber Non-Recurrent from the Modern Climbing Roses classification.

Height x Spread in inches (cms)
(1 inch = 2.5 cms,
12 inches = 1 foot = 30 cms,
24 inches = 2 feet)

144 x 96 (360 x 240)

Foliage

Dark Green

Flower Colour in Season. Hips

Bright brick-red free-flowering rose with shapely buds opening flat and fully double.

Flowering is Continuous throughout the summer.

Comment

"A repeat flowering climbing rose. Also known as Spectacular. Small clusters of slightly scented, dark red blooms are produced repeatedly throughout the summer into the autumn. Foliage is an attractive green tinted bronze. Can be grown up a north facing wall. Hardy. Good disease resistance. Grows to 300-450cm in height." from British Roses.

"Fragrant, repeated double flowers of scarlet-orange. Outstanding display of colour all season into autumn. Height: 2.4m." from R.V. Roger Ltd.

"Bred by Charles Mallerin (France, 1953).

Orange or orange-red.  Orange-scarlet, vermilion. Scarlet, ageing to crimson-purple.  None to mild fragrance.  23 to 33 petals.  Average diameter 4".  In small clusters, cupped-to-flat bloom form.  Blooms in flushes throughout the season.  

Armed with thorns / prickles, climbing.  Glossy, dark green foliage.  

Height of 7' to 12' (215 to 365 cm).  
Width of 6½' to 8' (200 to 245 cm).

USDA zone 6b through 9b (default).  
Shade tolerant.  
Disease susceptibility: susceptible to Black Spot. " from Help Me Find.

Suitable for growing:

• as a Climber or Pillar rose
• on a north facing wall
• in shady locations
• in a warm climate such as South Europe, around the Mediterranean and parts of the Middle East
• NOT FRAGRANT Rose
• Rose Bloom Shape: Cupped or Quartered Bloom or Cupped-to-Flat or High-Centered-To-Cupped
• Rose Bloom Shape: Flat
• Petal Count: Full 26-40 Petals

Recommended " planting distance is 72 inches (180 cms) apart" from Roses UK.

Available from
British Roses and
R.V. Roger Ltd (Open ground roses despatched between November and March, Containerised roses despatched between May and October) in the UK with
Help Me Find in America.

For further details on the cultivation of roses, consult the Royal National Rose Society.

"A website devoted to roses, clematis and peonies and all that is gardening related, including selecting, buying, breeding, caring for and exhibiting.  We have cataloged over 44,000 roses and have more than 160,000 photos along with thousands of Rose nurseries, public and private gardens, Rose societies, authors, breeders, hybridizers and publications from all over the world. Click Buy From tab on the Help Me Find page to locate sellers of this rose or Gardens tab to locate public, private and member gardens growing this rose." from Help Me Find in America.

Pruning Roses - the Sissinghurst Method and
The 5 P's for Easy Rose Growing - in the seventh Table of the top row.
Rose Care by Crocus .

Susceptible to Black Spot.
Susceptible to Mildew.
Susceptible to Rust.

See Rose Index for further details of the 720 roses .

WISLEY WISLEY Rose Classification System .
Further Plant Label and Path Foundation Comments .

For further details on the cultivation of roses, consult the The Rose Society UK.
The Royal National Rose Society went into administration on 15th May 2017.

ROSE PLANT GALLERY PAGE MENU
Rose Plant Site Map
of pages with content (o)

Introduction

FOLIAGE COLOUR
(o)Green 1
(o)Green 2
(o)Green 3

MODERN SHRUB ROSE TYPE SHAPE
(o)1 Recur Large-Flo
(o)2 Recur Cluster-Flo
(o)3 Ground-Cover Recur
(o)4 Hybrid Tea
(o)5 Floribunda
6 Dwarf Cluster-Flo
(o)6a Dwarf Large-Flo
(o)7 Polyantha
(o)8 Miniature and Patio
9 Non-Recur Large-Flo
(o)10 Non-Recur Cluster-Flo
(o)11 Ground-Cover Non-Recur

MODERN CLIMBER ROSE TYPE SHAPE
(o)12 Rambler Recur
(o)13 Large-Flo Recur
(o)14 Cluster-Flo Recur
15 Miniature Recur
(o)16 Rambler Non-Recur
(o)17 Large-Flo Non-Recur
(o)18 Cluster-Flo Non-Recur
19 Miniature Non-Recur
(o)19a-d English Roses - Austin Roses

 

ROSE PLANT GALLERY PAGES

Website Structure Explanation and User Guidelines

OLD GARDEN SHRUB ROSE TYPE SHAPE
(o)20 Alba
(o)21 Bourbon
22 Boursalt
(o)23 China
(o)24 Damask
(o)25 Gallica
26 Hybrid Perpetual
(o)27 Moss
(o)28 Portland
(o)29 Provence
(o)30 Sweet Briar
(o)31 Tea

OLD GARDEN CLIMBER ROSE TYPE SHAPE
32 Rambler Ayrshire
33 Bourbon
34 Boursalt
35 Tea
(o)36 Noisette
(o)37 Sempervirens

WILD ROSE TYPE SHAPE
(o)38 Non-Climbing
(o)39 Climbing

HIP COLOUR
(o)Hip Colour

BED PICTURES
(o)Garden Pictures
 

Closed Bud.
Photo from Pickering, North Yorkshire by Chris Garnons-Williams within 21-25 July 2014.

"Climbing Rose Question

Question:
I have just bought a climbing rose called Danse du feu. I have planted it in an old chimney pot which is 18" tall and 9" in diameter. This is sitting on a 4" layer of gravel under which is concrete. I am training it onto a wicker climbing frame. Any suggestion on how and when to prune? 

Answer: 
Although pot growing roses can be successful, the eventual size of the bush is limited by the size of the root system. Not a problem with smaller bush roses but due to the length of the canes of climbers this can limit their growth and flowering. When digging up a well established bush, the thick roots you see are mostly anchor roots. The tiny feeder roots that supply nutrients and moisture to the plant normally are easily broken off and left in the soil. A good root system will be as large as the top growth. Providing a larger pot will fix the problem in the short run but overall the plant will not achieve it's full potential. As the pot fills with roots a dilute fertilizer should be supplied each time it's watered. Notice I said "dilute", not full strength? Manure tea would also work. I'd not plant a climber in anything smaller than a half barrel or a large tree pot. Climbing rose Danse du feu, also known as Spectacular. My sources show it to be a vigorous grower which means it will be severely stunted in the pot unless it is supplied with frequent fertilizings and waterings.

It's not recommended to prune Climbers until after the first spring bloom. Your bush is listed as "recurrent blooms", which means it will have a spectacular first bloom and a smattering of flowers throughout the growing season with a possible fall bloom that will not match the spring's.  Most climbers in this catagory will set blooms in the fall and blooms best on old wood from the previous year.  Pruning in spring removes those blooms. Because it's recurrent, it will also produce a few blooms from new growth, but not many. You may remove damaged or dead cane tips in the spring but any other pruning should be done after the spring bloom. Over a period of years older canes will produce fewer flowers. This can be remedied by removing those old canes. This promotes new growth which will supply more flowers and will keep your bush vigorous.

To train it onto a wicker climbing frame, tie the canes to the frame with soft ties or cord. Weaving them in the frame can make it hard to remove dead and damaged canes and also cause a problem if you wish to move the bush. If you live in a cold winter climate, some winter protection may be required to protect the canes or they may die back each winter. Wrapping the trellis and exposed canes with burlap may work as would removing the canes from the trellis each fall, laying them on the ground and covering them with leaves, soil or wood shavings.

To prevent fungus diseases like blackspot, you should spray every week or 10 days with a fungicide such as Fertilome's Liquid Systemic Fungicide, Ortho's Funginex or other product labeled for roses.


I don't spray insecticides. Insects don't eat that much and, unless you are a prefect leaf freak or exhibitor, a few holes in the blooms or leaves don't hurt anything. Insecticide spraying will kill many beneficial insects which if left alone will naturally control harmful ones. If done, it should only be done to destroy existing insects and not as a preventative. 

Hope this helps" from Rosenut -
"1985 to 2001

I am Karl Bapst, and I live in Northwest Indiana, Gardening Zone 5.  My wife, Nancy, and I have been married since 1971. We have 6 children, all out of the nest. We have 21 grandchildren and 7 great-grandchildren. I survived a bout of acute leukemia in 1982 and am currently recovering from a massive stroke suffered in March of 2002.

I am a Life Member and a Master Rosarian with the American Rose Society. I am also a Life Member of the National Home Gardening Club, an Advanced Master Gardener, and Master Composter through Purdue University, and member of the Duneland Rose Society of NW Indiana. I would welcome questions pertaining mainly to roses and composting but I have general knowledge of most other plants and access to answers to questions concerning many of them. I gave horticultural programs to various groups but have curtailed that somewhat.

I moved in August of 2001 to a home in the country 40 miles south of Griffith, Indiana where I grew over 500 rosebushes lot of 60 by 135 feet. My house and 2 1/2 car garage also sat on this lot. I had a shade garden in an area I shared with a neighbor where we couldn't get anything else to grow. I also had an area on the north side of my house which would not support roses due to a lack of enough sunlight but it supported plants which grew nicely in semi-shade. A well installed in 1989, due to a large city water bill, to water some 95 newly planted roses, led to an eight zone automated watering system using schedule 40 PVC pipe and Dramm nozzles. I also utilized some drip watering on my back deck and in the front for hanging and potted plants.

I had a 24' by 26’ wooden frame polyhouse built over three rose beds and my pond.  I covered the frame with plastic in the winter. The small pond consisted of one and a half whiskey barrels for water falls, two small plastic formed ponds and a short connecting waterway. The pond supplied most of the heat during the winter nights and sunlight supplied the rest. I heated the pond in the winter with an animal stock tank heater which kept the water at 40 degrees. I overwintered goldfish and water plants for years and had frogs all winter long. Roses do not bloom in my zone 5 location until the end of May or first of June but I had roses blooming on April 1st in the polyhouse. I also had 3 compost bins and two compost barrels built from 55 gallon barrels. I composted all yard waste including my rose clippings and used a battery powered lawn mower and edge trimmer.

 2001 to Present

My new home sets on a ¾ acre oak wooded lot in the small farming community of Wheatfield, Indiana. I removed half the trees on the property to open up a slightly sloping hillside to the sun for the roses. 

After 30 years as a supervisor at Ford Motor Company's Chicago Assembly Plant, I retired on June 1, 1998. After retiring from Ford, boredom caused me to get a part time job at a Wal*Mart Garden Center in 2001 where I worked until suffering the stroke.

After a week of getting stabilized I spent 4 weeks at a rehab facility. This was followed by 4 weeks of in-home physical therapy where I learned to walk and get around the house. I progressed to the point that I was able to return to my yard and polyhouse in the spring of 2003.

I'm so busy that I need a planner to keep track of everything I have to do, something I was able to get along without before I retired .

The stroke left me unable to hold a job but having turned 65 in June 2003, I think maybe it's time to stop and smell the roses before I'm pushing them up. 

When we moved I potted up and moved all my roses which over wintered in a big circle in the front yard covered with a foot of oak leaves. My intention was to planting them in their new homes in the spring of 2002. Due to the stroke which left me paralyzed on my left side I was unable to do as I planned.   

Well meaning friends and associates from my church, friends, rose society members, Master gardeners, and various neighbors had a planting party for me in June of 2002 and got them all planted. Many of the original roses did not survive the transplanting due lack of water and the hot dry summer. My wife's determination kept me from losing them all. She spent most of that summer pulling hoses, watering, and weeding the flower beds.

Even though I still couldn’t use my left arm and walked like a drunken sailor I    ordered roses for spring 2003 delivery to replace some of those that were lost. 

My son-in-law helped me reconstruct my greenhouse in the fall of 2002. Each spring I get 200 or more rooted hardy rooted cuttings from Great Lakes Roses in Michigan. I repot these into larger pots to mature in the green house. These are sold at rose society events, to folks who stop to admire the roses, and at a farmer’s market. A new well was installed to help to supply water to a sprinkling system that enabled us to retire the garden hoses and help the watering chores. I operate the lawn tractor and weed and care for the roses from the seat of a Rascal Scooter my son talked me into buying after I left the hospital. I’ve worn out one scooter and am on the 2nd.

Although I can walk a little, the scooter provides mobility for me to get into the rose garden, greenhouse, and yard.

It also allows me to travel. Nancy and I have been to 2 American Rose Society conventions in Philadelphia and New Orleans. I can still drive so we’ve also traveled to Florida a few times, flew to Hawaii, and will be going on an Alaskan cruise this fall 2006.

I should add that without my wife’s help weeding and being my left hand when it’s needed, I’d be unable to do a lot of what I do!

This year we’ve completed a shade garden with a pond that we can see from our kitchen table and cleared an area close to the house for a butterfly/humming bird garden.

The stroke has forced me to find other ways to accomplish things I took for granted before. It’s taught me to adapt but it hasn’t kept me from my passion and hobby of growing Roses."

The following practical advice was written by Percy Thrower in his Percy Thrower's Practical Guides Roses and published by W.H. & L. Collingridge Ltd in 1964:-

"Soils and Situations
Roses, ideally like a deep, good quality loam, not waterlogged or sour, but well supplied with plant foods and stiff enough to allow the roots to find a congenial cool run. I believe that, with good cultivation and the proper use of manure, almost any garden in the British Isles may be made to produce quite satisfactory roses.
Roses do not like to be dried out, yet they appreciate enough sun to ensure thorough ripening of the wood. The more open the beds are to light and air, the better. If the soil is naturally light and quick draining as in sand, it must have sufficient organic matter added to ensure that during dry spells it will not become parched."

See Interaction between 2 Quartz Sand Grains to make soil page on how to add clay etc to a sandy soil and how to add sand to a clay soil to get a SOIL towards a Perfect general use soil, which is composed of 8.3% lime, 16.6% humus, 25% clay and 50% sand.

"Organic matter is equally useful on clay soils to improve their texture and prevent them cracking in hot weather."

A 150mm deep mulch of mixed peat, sharp washed sand and horticultural grit was applied on top of a heavy clay soil to improve its structure, and stop the plants therein from drowning in Soil Formation - What is Soil Texture? page.

"While, of course, partly rotted organic materials provide the basis of nearly all natural plant food taken up by the roots, they also act as a sponge, holding on to soil moisture which should otherwise be lost. At the same time soil texture is improved enormously by the air spaces left as the material breaks down further into humuds and it is from this that clay soils particularly benefit.

Humus.
Humus itself is the end product of the complex breaking down of organic materials added to the soil. It takes some time to reach this state and because of this, I try to give my roses regular dressings of organic matter each year, knowing that this breaking-down process is going on all the time.
Humus can be provided in a variety of ways, the best being as well-rotted farmyard or stable manure. Unfortunately, this is not often readily obtained near a town, and haulage over long distance may make the price prohibitive.

In Britain, unless you own the well-rotted farmyard manure, you cannot take it and transport it as a member of the public. You have to get the owner who could be a company or an individual to transport it to your property, which is why there are great heaps of the stuff lying on farmers and stable owners properties, which could benefit householder's gardens - another example of crass government stupidity.

Any decayed vegetable matter may be used with advantage if well worked in. There must be tons of kitchen vegetable trimmings put into dustbins each year which could, and should, be added to the garden compost heap.
Lawn mowings and other garden refuse, stacked for a few months and turned occasionally, will rot down into good manure.

When I was maintaining my customer's gardens, the gardens were too small to have large compost bins that I could apply sufficient prunings/weeds each fortnight for it to compost properly. So I advised my clients to have a small plastic dustbin under their sinks for vegetable and fruit peelings, used tea bags/coffee grounds and eggshells, which I could then apply to a newly weeded area in the garden as a 3 inch (7.5cm) deep mulch and cover over with a 0.5 inch (1 cm) layer of mown grass/mown prunings/mown removed weeds. That would decompose to produce humus, stop weed seeds germinating, stop the ground from drying out due to wind and sun; and reuse that organic matter for those garden plants.

Cultivation
Double digging is the most satisfactory preparation for roses. This means thoroughly breaking up the soil to a depth of about 24 inches (60cms). The work is commenced by taking out a 24 inch wide trench across the plot to a depth of 12 inches (30 cms), and wheeling the soil removed from this to the other end of the patch. Then, the gardener gets into the trench and, with a strong digging fork, breaks up the bottom soil as deeply as possible. A 6 inch (15cm) depth of well-rotted manure is incorporated with this soil which has been dug over at the bottom of the trench.
The work proceeds by opening an adjacent trench 24 inches in width and turning the soil onto the broken soil lying in the previous trench.
Now the bottom of this new trench is forked.
Manure is not wanted at first in the top soil because it check early root development in newly planted roses, but there is no reason why sheep's wool/bracken, straw or Green Compost should not be used to improve the texture of the top soil.
To complete the pre-planting preparations it is a good plan to dress the soil with bone-meal or hoof and horn, which will benefit the roses over an extended period.

The above cultivation is a pipedream in the modern gardens in Britain, since it is more than likely that there is a very little depth of topsoil below the turf, before you get to the subsoil of clay or sand with perhaps rubble on top of that subsoil.
I suggest that you dig down through the turf as far as you can using a fork, then fork in a depth of 6 inches (15cms) layer of sheep's wool/bracken, straw or Green Compost. Then using the fork mix this with the next forkfull of turf/soil, before repeating the process until the bed for the roses has been dug. Water the dug area with a a good amount of water.
Leave the dug area for 3 months.
Then, Dig down 2 forks depth and laying this to one side.
Apply the manure to the bottom of the trench and mix it with a fork's depth of the next part of the turf/soil depth of trench. Next, apply a 3 inch (7.5cm) depth layer of sheep's wool/bracken, straw or Green Compost. Then dig the second fork depth fork depth to lay on top of that mulch. Repeat the process until completion.
Leave for 2 months before applying the bone-meal or hoof and horn.

Planting
Roses can be planted at any time from late October to late March, but from past experience I have found that November is probably the most favourable month. Many roses are now grown in pots and these can be transplanted at any time, even in mid-summer, providing moist soil is kept around the roots.

Faults to avoid in planting.
There are 3 things to avoid as each of them may check the plants severely. They are:

• allowing the roots to become dry before or during the time of planting;
• planting too deeply, and
• doubling up some of the roots so that their ends are pointing upwards instead of outwards or downwards as they should

To these I would add insufficient firming of the soil, but I do not regard this as quite so serious as the other 3, particularly if roses are planted in the autumn, because the amount of rain we usually get in 1964 then soon consolidates the soil even if it has not been well trodden down in the first place.

Arrival from nursery.
Roses, if properly packed, should arrive from the nursery with their roots reasonably moist, but if they appear to be dry, do not hesitate to stand them in a bucket of water for 30 minutes to get a thorough soaking. Then, either dig a hole big enough to accomodate all the roots in the bundle of roses and cover them immediately with soil, or wrap damp hemp sacking or straw around them.
If the rose arrives in a pot, then soak it for 30 minutes in the bucket. Take them out of the bucket and wrap them in damp hemp sacking or straw to prevent them drying out.
It may take several hours to plant a large number properly and in that time roots can be seriously damaged by drying out if left exposed to the sun or a drying wind.

His book will explain everything else you need to know!!!
 

The following practical advice was written by Percy Thrower in his Percy Thrower's Practical Guides Roses and published by W.H. & L. Collingridge Ltd in 1964:-

"Soils and Situations
Roses, ideally like a deep, good quality loam, not waterlogged or sour, but well supplied with plant foods and stiff enough to allow the roots to find a congenial cool run. I believe that, with good cultivation and the proper use of manure, almost any garden in the British Isles may be made to produce quite satisfactory roses.
Roses do not like to be dried out, yet they appreciate enough sun to ensure thorough ripening of the wood. The more open the beds are to light and air, the better. If the soil is naturally light and quick draining as in sand, it must have sufficient organic matter added to ensure that during dry spells it will not become parched."

See Interaction between 2 Quartz Sand Grains to make soil page on how to add clay etc to a sandy soil and how to add sand to a clay soil to get a SOIL towards a Perfect general use soil, which is composed of 8.3% lime, 16.6% humus, 25% clay and 50% sand.

"Organic matter is equally useful on clay soils to improve their texture and prevent them cracking in hot weather."

A 150mm deep mulch of mixed peat, sharp washed sand and horticultural grit was applied on top of a heavy clay soil to improve its structure, and stop the plants therein from drowning in Soil Formation - What is Soil Texture? page.

"While, of course, partly rotted organic materials provide the basis of nearly all natural plant food taken up by the roots, they also act as a sponge, holding on to soil moisture which should otherwise be lost. At the same time soil texture is improved enormously by the air spaces left as the material breaks down further into humuds and it is from this that clay soils particularly benefit.

Humus.
Humus itself is the end product of the complex breaking down of organic materials added to the soil. It takes some time to reach this state and because of this, I try to give my roses regular dressings of organic matter each year, knowing that this breaking-down process is going on all the time.
Humus can be provided in a variety of ways, the best being as well-rotted farmyard or stable manure. Unfortunately, this is not often readily obtained near a town, and haulage over long distance may make the price prohibitive.

In Britain, unless you own the well-rotted farmyard manure, you cannot take it and transport it as a member of the public. You have to get the owner who could be a company or an individual to transport it to your property, which is why there are great heaps of the stuff lying on farmers and stable owners properties, which could benefit householder's gardens - another example of crass government stupidity.

Any decayed vegetable matter may be used with advantage if well worked in. There must be tons of kitchen vegetable trimmings put into dustbins each year which could, and should, be added to the garden compost heap.
Lawn mowings and other garden refuse, stacked for a few months and turned occasionally, will rot down into good manure.

When I was maintaining my customer's gardens, the gardens were too small to have large compost bins that I could apply sufficient prunings/weeds each fortnight for it to compost properly. So I advised my clients to have a small plastic dustbin under their sinks for vegetable and fruit peelings, used tea bags/coffee grounds and eggshells, which I could then apply to a newly weeded area in the garden as a 3 inch (7.5cm) deep mulch and cover over with a 0.5 inch (1 cm) layer of mown grass/mown prunings/mown removed weeds. That would decompose to produce humus, stop weed seeds germinating, stop the ground from drying out due to wind and sun; and reuse that organic matter for those garden plants.

Cultivation
Double digging is the most satisfactory preparation for roses. This means thoroughly breaking up the soil to a depth of about 24 inches (60cms). The work is commenced by taking out a 24 inch wide trench across the plot to a depth of 12 inches (30 cms), and wheeling the soil removed from this to the other end of the patch. Then, the gardener gets into the trench and, with a strong digging fork, breaks up the bottom soil as deeply as possible. A 6 inch (15cm) depth of well-rotted manure is incorporated with this soil which has been dug over at the bottom of the trench.
The work proceeds by opening an adjacent trench 24 inches in width and turning the soil onto the broken soil lying in the previous trench.
Now the bottom of this new trench is forked.
Manure is not wanted at first in the top soil because it check early root development in newly planted roses, but there is no reason why sheep's wool/bracken, straw or Green Compost should not be used to improve the texture of the top soil.
To complete the pre-planting preparations it is a good plan to dress the soil with bone-meal or hoof and horn, which will benefit the roses over an extended period.

The above cultivation is a pipedream in the modern gardens in Britain, since it is more than likely that there is a very little depth of topsoil below the turf, before you get to the subsoil of clay or sand with perhaps rubble on top of that subsoil.
I suggest that you dig down through the turf as far as you can using a fork, then fork in a depth of 6 inches (15cms) layer of sheep's wool/bracken, straw or Green Compost. Then using the fork mix this with the next forkfull of turf/soil, before repeating the process until the bed for the roses has been dug. Water the dug area with a a good amount of water.
Leave the dug area for 3 months.
Then, Dig down 2 forks depth and laying this to one side.
Apply the manure to the bottom of the trench and mix it with a fork's depth of the next part of the turf/soil depth of trench. Next, apply a 3 inch (7.5cm) depth layer of sheep's wool/bracken, straw or Green Compost. Then dig the second fork depth fork depth to lay on top of that mulch. Repeat the process until completion.
Leave for 2 months before applying the bone-meal or hoof and horn.

Planting
Roses can be planted at any time from late October to late March, but from past experience I have found that November is probably the most favourable month. Many roses are now grown in pots and these can be transplanted at any time, even in mid-summer, providing moist soil is kept around the roots.

Faults to avoid in planting.
There are 3 things to avoid as each of them may check the plants severely. They are:

• allowing the roots to become dry before or during the time of planting;
• planting too deeply, and
• doubling up some of the roots so that their ends are pointing upwards instead of outwards or downwards as they should

To these I would add insufficient firming of the soil, but I do not regard this as quite so serious as the other 3, particularly if roses are planted in the autumn, because the amount of rain we usually get in 1964 then soon consolidates the soil even if it has not been well trodden down in the first place.

Arrival from nursery.
Roses, if properly packed, should arrive from the nursery with their roots reasonably moist, but if they appear to be dry, do not hesitate to stand them in a bucket of water for 30 minutes to get a thorough soaking. Then, either dig a hole big enough to accomodate all the roots in the bundle of roses and cover them immediately with soil, or wrap damp hemp sacking or straw around them.
If the rose arrives in a pot, then soak it for 30 minutes in the bucket. Take them out of the bucket and wrap them in damp hemp sacking or straw to prevent them drying out.
It may take several hours to plant a large number properly and in that time roots can be seriously damaged by drying out if left exposed to the sun or a drying wind.

His book will explain everything else you need to know!!!
 

---------

I Can Garden has information like this:-

"Spring 2013 promises to be “Rose Heaven” for fans of David Austin Roses. The famous Shropshire, England rose breeder is introducing six exquisite new English Rose varieties to North America. The six varieties – deliciously fragrant and robust, season-long repeat bloomers -- are available by mail order from www.davidaustinroses.com.

The six new English Roses are:-

‘Wollerton Old Hall’, a beautiful chalice-shaped, creamy-apricot colored rose considered to be one of the most fragrant English Roses of all time with a delicious strong myrrh scent with elements of citrus;

‘Lady Salisbury’, a plump, multi-petalled pure pink rose with great Old Rose charm;

‘Fighting Temeraire’, an abundantly-blooming, rich apricot rose with an award-winning fruity fragrance with notes of lemon zest;

‘England’s Rose’, a particularly tough and reliable variety with glowing pink flowers and a strong Old Rose fragrance with a warm spicy character;

‘Queen Anne’ with pure rose-pink flowers, few thorns and an appealing full-bodied Old Rose fragrance;

‘The Lady’s Blush’ a lightly-scented, semi-double, soft pink rose with lovely open flowers exhibiting unusual grace and freshness.

David Austin’s English Roses are known for combining the romantic flower forms and perfume of Old Roses with the broad color range and repeat-flowering of modern roses. As a rose breeder, David Austin’s achievement is in marrying this lovely “English Rose” look with tough-as-nails garden performance, vigorous growth, full bushes, disease resistance and prolific season-long bloom. English Roses are suited to growing in full sun or partial shade provided the site is not overhung by tree canopies. Gardeners who long to recreate the English cottage garden style in their yard can rest assured that these are roses with passports. They are not only grown in England, but are truly world travelers, found throughout the U.S.A. and Canada and, indeed, in every rose growing country in the world.

All David Austin roses sold in North America are specially selected for North American growing conditions and climate zones. All are grown and shipped within North America. Also available free upon request, is David Austin’s award-winning catalog, "The Handbook of Roses 2013," a must-have for rose lovers, with 120 pages of color illustrations." from Six New David Austin English Roses by Sally Ferguson. October 21, 2012

"The 5 P’s For Easy Rose Growing

1. Planning

2. Preparation

3. Planting

4. Pruning

5. Preservation

Planning

Try to plan well in advance of purchasing your roses. Roses come in a multitude of sizes, habits and colours. They prefer a sunny position and a neutral or slightly acidic well drained soil. Certain roses will tolerate differing degrees of shade and some will thrive in poor soils. Do your homework.

Preparation

The area to be planted should be free of weeds and deeply dug with the addition of plenty of organic matter such as well rotted farmyard manure or garden compost plus bonemeal. Soil that has previously grown roses should be removed to a depth of 45cms and replaced with fresh soil from elsewhere. This should be completed well before planting to allow the soil to settle.

Planting

Bare root roses can be planted from November until March provided the soil is workable. Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the roots. Mix a handful of bonemeal with the excavated soil. Spread the roots out in the hole and gradually replace the soil firming well so the union (where the shoots meet the roots) is 2-3 cms. below the soil, water well. If conditions are very wet or frosty when your roses arrive they can be kept unopened in their packaging for a week or more and planted as soon as things improve.

Pruning

This is a way to maintain a healthy, productive and well balanced plant. Different types of roses require different strategies so see the group headings on the website for more detailed pruning guides. Always use sharp secateurs or loppers and try to prune just above an outward facing bud (where the leaf stalk meets the stem) with a cut sloping down away from the bud. Remove any dead, damaged or diseased wood before pruning.

Preservation

Roses can be long lived plants provided they are properly maintained. They require plenty of moisture and nutrients to stay healthy and flourish. In dry spells water well, especially in the first few years after planting. The application of a deep mulch in the spring will help to retain water. Feed twice a year on heavy soils (March and June) and more regularly on lighter soils with a good rose fertilizer or fish blood and bone. Pests and diseases are best controlled with good husbandry. There are some good organic products on the market now that can be used to help maintain your plants health. Any suckers (shoots growing from the rootstock) should be pulled off (not cut) as soon as possible." from Trevor White Old Fashioned Roses.

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"Pruning roses - the sissinghurst method

Pruning roses the Sissinghurst way helps create those wonderful fountains of roses you see in summer gardens - delicious-smelling, out-of-control geysers of flowers that effuse all over the garden. Pruning roses like this means you don't get those boring little twiggy bushes, all leg and no body, surrounded by bare ground.

The Sissinghurst rose pruning technique originated at Cliveden with the Astors' head gardener Jack Vass, who moved to Sissinghurst in 1939.

Vita Sackville-West loved her roses, particularly the dark, rich Gallicas such as 'Charles de Mills', 'Tuscany Superb' and 'Cardinal de Richelieu', but it was Jack Vass who started to grow them in this exceptional way, and roses have been pruned and trained like this at Sissinghurst ever since. Other National Trust properties send their gardeners here to learn this ingenious technique.

The rose pruning philosophy can be summed up as "treat them mean, keep them keen". If you put every stem of a rose plant under pressure, bending and stressing it, the rose will flower more prolifically. The plant's biochemistry tells the bush it's on the way out and so needs to make as many flowers as possible.

THE SISSINGHURST ROSE PRUNING TECHNIQUE

Climbers and ramblers

The rose pruning season at Sissinghurst starts in November with the climbers and ramblers that cover almost every one of the terracotta brick walls.

First, the gardeners cut off most of that year's growth. This keeps the framework of the rose clear and prevents the plant from becoming too woody.

Next, large woody stems are taken out - almost to the base - to encourage new shoots. These will flower the following year.

The remaining branches are re-attached to the wall, stem by stem, starting from the middle of the plant, working outwards, with the pruned tip of each branch bent down and attached to the one below.

Climbers such as 'Paul's Lemon Pillar' are a bit more reluctant than ramblers like 'Albertine' and the famous Rosa mulliganii on the frame in the centre of the White Garden, which are very bendy and easy to train.

Shrub roses

Once the wall roses are done, it's the turn of the border shrubs. They should be pruned before they come into leaf to prevent leaf buds and shoots from being damaged as their stems are manipulated. Depending on their habit, shrub roses are trained in one of three ways.

The tall, rangy bushes with stiffer branches (such as 'Charles de Mills', 'Ispahan', 'Gloire de France', 'Cardinal de Richelieu' and 'Camayeux') are twirled up a frame of four chestnut or hazel poles. Every pruned tip is bent and attached to a length below.

The big leggy shrubs, which put out great, pliable, triffid arms that are easy to tie down and train, are bent on to hazel hoops arranged around the skirts of the plant. Roses with this lax habit include 'Constance Spry', 'Fantin-Latour', 'Zéphirine Drouhin', 'Madame Isaac Pereire', 'Coupe d'Hébé', 'Henri Martin' and 'Souvenir du Dr Jamain'.

All the old and diseased wood is removed and then, stem by stem, last year's wood is bent over and tied onto the hazel hoop. You start at the outside of the plant and tie that in first and then move towards the middle, using the plant's own branches to build up the web and - in the case of 'Constance Spry' and 'Henri Martin' - create a fantastic height, one layer domed and attached to the one below. Without any sign of a flower, this looks magnificent as soon as it's complete, and in a couple of months, each stem, curved almost to ground level, will flower abundantly.

That leaves just the contained, well behaved, less prolific varieties ('Petite de Hollande', 'Madame Knorr', 'Chapeau de Napoléon', ( syn. Rosa x centifolia 'Cristata') and those that produce branches too stiff to bend ('Felicia' and the newish David Austin rose, 'William Shakespeare 2000'). These are pruned hard, then each bush is attached to a single stake, cut to about the height of the pruned bush and attached by twine. Without the stake, even these will topple under the weight of their summer growth.

For those who live in the North, where some roses are yet to leaf, you could get bending now. If your roses are already too advanced for this year, come and see how it's all done at Sissinghurst." from Sarah Raven.

Peter Beales Roses - An illustrated encyclopedia and grower's handbook of species roses, old roses and modern roses, shrub roses and climbers by Peter Beales (ISBN 0-00-272178-3) is an excellent book concerning roses and what can be grown in different parts of the world.

Excellent Roses

I think that the following shrubs are excellent roses for their type:-

Bloom Colour

Rose Type

Rose Name

Height x Width in inches (cms)

Comments

Shrubs

Apricot

Flori-bunda Shrub 5

Southam-pton

36 x 24 inches (90-60 cms)

Excellent for bedding, hedging and in pots. Moderately fragrant blooms.

Apricot

Patio Bush 8

Sweet Dream

36 x 24 inches (90-60 cms)

The most popular selling rose in England. Use for bedding, in hedges or pots.

Apricot fading to pink

Hybrid Tea Shrub 4

Silver Jubilee

42 x 24 (105 x 60)

One of the best roses ever raised and popular for bedding, hedging, and growing in pots; with thorny stems.

Reddish-Brown

Flori-bunda Shrub 5

Hot Chocolate

36 x 32 (90 x 80)

Awarded the accolade of novelty rose 2006. Use for bedding and in pots.

Crimson-Purple

Modern Shrub 2

Roseraie de l'Hay

72 x 60 (180 x 150)

One of the best-loved rugosas. Use for impenetrable fragrant flowered hedge

Red

Mini-flora Shrub 6a

Doris Morgan

18 x 18 inches (45-45 cms)

Award of Excellence in 2003. Use for bedding and in pots. Moderately fragrant.

Red and Crimson

Flori-bunda Shrub 5

Marlena

18 x 18 inches (45-45 cms)

Bronze tinted dark green foliage on reliable ground cover. Also for use in bedding, hedging and pots.

Crimson

Hybrid Tea Shrub 4

Alec's Red

30 x 24 inches (75-60 cms)

A good all-rounder which is suitable for bedding or planting in groups as bushes or standards with outstanding sweet fragrance

Crimson

Flori-bunda Shrub 5

Glad Tidings

30 x 24 inches (75-60 cms)

Excellent for bedding, hedging, in pots and for non-fragrant cut bloom.

Crimson red with white eye

Flori-bunda Shrub 5

Matangi

36 x 24 inches (90-60 cms)

Excellent for bedding and hedges.

Orange-red

Flor-bunda Shrub 5

Tony Jacklin

36 x 24 inches (90-60 cms)

Use for bedding, hedging and slightly fragrant cut flower for the house and exhibition.

Crimson

Gallica Shrub 25

Rosa gallica officinalis

36 x 36 inches (90-90 cms)

In the Middle Ages its scent-retaining properties were much valued by apothecaries. Use for Hedging, cutting and in pots. Rosa gallica versicolor is its striped bloom sport.

Crimson

Hybrid Tea Shrub 4

Royal William

48 x 24 inches (120-60 cms)

Rose of the Year 1987. Ideal for bedding, grow in pots and as a very fragrant cut flower

Crimson

Modern Shrub 2

Prestige

48 x 36 inches (120-90 cms)

Healthy very floriferous grower, makes a good hedge or speciman bush 4-6 feet high.

Red

Hybrid Tea Shrub 4

Ingrid Bergman

54 x 24 (135 x 60)

Use in bedding, in pots and as a very fragrant cut bloom

Crimson

Moss Shrub 27

Henri Martin

60 x 48 inches (150-120 cms)

Well worth growing for the sheer quantity of very fragrant blooms produced. Use for Hedging

Vermilion

Modern Shrub 1

Alexander

78 x 48 (195 x 120)

Ideal for the back of the border or for hedging. Good for cutting.

Crimson

Wild Roses Shrub 38

Rosa moyesii

120 x 72 (300 x 180)

Shrub with hips in the autumn. Use as wall plant, or for Woodland and covert planting.

Orange

Mini-ature Bush 8

Amber Star

15 x 15 (38 x 38)

Easy to grow. Good for close-density bedding, in pots or external window boxes. Exhibition variety and slightly fragrant cut flower.

Orange

Hybrid Tea Shrub 4

Just Joey

24 x 24 inches (60-60 cms)

Use in bedding and pots. Moderate fragrance.

Orange

Hybrid Tea Shrub 4

Dawn Chorus

30 x 18 inches (75-45 cms)

Rose of the Year 1993. Use as bedding.

Orange

Hybrid Tea Shrub 4

Halle

36 x 24 inches (90-60 cms)

Extremely free flowering and very fragrant. Use for bedding and hedging.

Pink

Poly-antha Shrub 7

Jean Mermoz

24 x 18 inches (60-45 cms)

Bedding, Ground-cover and in pots. Slightly fragrant.

Pink

Flori-bunda Shrub 5

English Miss

24 x 24 inches (60-60 cms)

Use for bedding, hedging and in pots. Slightly fragrant.

Pink

Hybrid Tea Shrub 4

Don Charlton

30 x 24 (75 x 60)

Very fragrant and a good cut flower.

Pink

Mini-ature Bush 8

Jilly Jewel

30 x 30 inches (75-75 cms)

Used in cut flower production throughout the world

Pink

Flori-bunda Shrub 5

Pink Parfait

36 x 24 inches (90-60 cms)

Excellent for bedding, hedging, in pots and slightly fragrant cut blooms.

Pink

China Shrub 23

Cecile Brunner White

48 x 24 inches (120-60 cms)

Compact growth makes it perfect for the front of the border.

Pink

Modern Shrub 2

Fru Dagmar Hartopp

48 x 48 inches (120-120 cms)

Grows almost anywhere. Good autumn foliage and hips. Can be used as ground cover and grown in pots.

Pink

Modern Shrub 2

Felicia

48 x 48 inches (120-120 cms)

Fragrant Specimen plant.

Pink

Flor-bunda Shrub 5

The Queen Elizabeth Rose

60 x 30 (150 x 75)

Outstanding vigorous, upright, and reliable for hedging, in pots and slightly fragrant cut flowers.

Pink

Modern Shrub 10

Rosa canina Dog Rose

120 x 72 (300 x 180)

The flowers of this native rose provide food for the bees and the hips provide food for the birds, in hedges.

Purple-violet

Hybrid Tea Shrub 4

Twice in a Blue Moon

36-60 x 18 (90-150 x 45)

Use for bedding, growing in pots and very fragrant cut flower.

White

Hybrid Tea Shrub 4

Silver Wedding

30 x 24 (75 x 60)

Use for bedding, growing in pots and as a slightly fragrant superb cut flower.

White

Flor-bunda Shrub 5

Margaret Merril

30 x 24 (75 x 60)

Use for bedding, hedging, in pots and very fragrant cut flowers.

White

Flori-bunda Shrub 5

Iceberg (Shrub)

36 x 24 inches (90-60 cms)

One of the best Floribundas ever raised and the most popular white Floribunda. Use for bedding hedging, in pots and moderate fragrance cut flowers.

White

Mini-ature Bush 8

Irresistible

36 x 30 inches (90-75 cms)

Best exhibit show mini

White

Port-land Shrub 28

Rosa pimpinelli-folia

36 x 36 inches (90-90 cms)

Good thorny impenetrable hedge

White

Modern Shrub 2

Rosa 'Blanc Double de Coubert'

60 x 48 inches (150-120 cms)

Good thorny rugosa impenetrable hedge

White

Modern Shrub 2

Prosperity

60 x 48 inches (150-120 cms)

Fragrant flowers on arching shoots in a hedge

Growing Roses in Containers

Select large terracotta pots or deep half barrels for soil volume and root stability.

Place the pot onto feet and add a drainage layer of 1" depth of pea-shingle at the bottom with 1" layer of Cotton Wool on top to prevent the compost mixture from mixing with the pea-shingle, so that the plants cannot drown or be continuosly waterlogged. Pot up in November with bare root plants using 4 parts by volume of John Innes No 3 with 1 part of either Multi-Purpose Compost or 1 of cow manure.

The plant should receive sunshine for at least half the day, with the pot being in shade. Top-dress with granular rose fertiliser in the Spring; avoid feeding after August and replace the compost every second year.

Grow the following patio and miniature roses in 14 inch deep pots and ground cover, half-standards or climbing roses in minimum of 18 inch deep pots:-

Climbers

• Rosa 'Aloha' Pink Flowers from David Austin Roses
• Rosa 'Boogie-Woogie' with Pink Flowers from Cants Roses
• Rosa 'Cascade' with Rosy-Peach Flowers from Cants Roses
• Rosa 'Celine Forestier' with Yellow Flowers from David Austin Roses
• Rosa 'Flashdance' with Deep Yellow Flowers from Cants Roses
• Rosa 'Good as Gold' with Golden Yellow Flowers from Cants Roses
• Rosa 'Laura Ford' with Yellow Flowers from David Austin Roses
• Rosa 'Meringue' with Red Flowers from Cants Roses
• Rosa 'Nice Day' with Salmon-pink Flowers from Rumwood Nurseries
• Rosa 'Phyllis Bide' with Pink, Salmon and Gold Flowers from Peter Beales Roses
• Rosa 'Pink Fizz' with Pink Flowers from Cants Roses
• Rosa 'Piroutte' with Apricot-pink Flowers from Cants Roses
• Rosa 'Tatoo' with Dark Red Flowers from Cants Roses
• Rosa 'Twist' with Pink/White-striped Flowers from Cants Roses
• Rosa 'Waltz' with White Flowers from Cants Roses

Ground Cover

• Rosa 'Berkshire' with Carmine Flowers from Rumwood Nurseries
• Rosa 'Kent' with White Flowers from Cants Roses
• Rosa 'Magic Carpet' with Lavender Flowers from Cants Roses
• Rosa 'Robin Redbreast' with Bright Red Flowers from Peter Beales Roses

Miniature and patio roses

• Rosa 'Anna Foord' with Orange-red Flowers from David Austin Roses
• Rosa 'Gentle Touch' with Salmon-Pink Flowers from Rumwood Nurseries
• Rosa 'Regensberg' with Pink and silver Flowers from David Austin Roses
• Rosa 'Sweet Dream' with Apricot-peach Flowers from Cants Roses

Half-Standards

• Rosa 'Flower Power' with Peachy-Salmon Flowers from Cants Roses
• Rosa 'Frothy' with White flowers Flowers from Cants Roses
• Rosa ' Pink Hit' with Soft Pink Flowers from Cants Roses
• Rosa 'Scarlet Hit' with Red Flowers from Cants Roses
• Rosa 'Shine On' with Orange Flowers from Cants Roses
• Rosa 'Shrimp Hit' with Red Flowers from Cants Roses
• Rosa 'Sun Hit' with Yellow Flowers from Cants Roses
• Rosa 'Sweet Dream' with Apricot-peach Flowers from Cants Roses
• Rosa 'Sweet Memories' with Yellow Flowers from Cants Roses
• Rosa 'Wildfire' with Orange Flowers from Cants Roses

Yellow

Hybrid Tea Shrub 4

Doreen

18 x 24 (45 x 60)

Very popular short dense plant with thorny stems

Yellow

Ground Cover 10

Gwent

24 x 120 (60 x 300)

Ground cover use and in pots. Slightly fragrant blooms.

Yellow

Flori-bunda Shrub 5

Amber Queen

24 x 24 inches (60-60 cms)

Use for bedding, growing in pots and moderately fragrant cut flower.

Yellow

Hybrid Tea Shrub 4

Freedom

30 x 24 (75 x 60)

One of the best Hybrid Teas for bedding and mass planting with moderate fragrance and retention of bloom colour

Yellow

Modern Shrub 2

Golden Wedding

36 x 36 inches (90-90 cms)

Compact shrub with plenty of foliage for use in bedding.

Yellow

Modern Shrub 1

Graham Thomas

48 x 36 inches (120-90 cms)

Good for Hedging, or growing in pots.

Yellow

Hybrid Tea Shrub 4

Peace

48 x 36 inches (120-90 cms)

Perhaps the best known and loved rose of all time. Use for hedges, as a slightly fragrant cut flower and for exhibition. Chicago Peace is identical to Rosa 'Peace' except for colour, which is a coppery yellow base overlaid with deep pink.

Yellow

Flori-bunda Shrub 5

China-town

48 x 36 inches (120-90 cms)

Use as a free-standing shrub, bedding or hedging with very fragrant blooms.

Yellow

Modern Shrub 2

Buff Beauty

60 x 60 (150 x 150)

Vigorous Hedge with strongly scented flowers continuously through the summer.

Yellow

Modern Shrub 10

Fruhlings-gold

84 X 60 (210 x 150)

A very fragrant flowering shrub in the Spring only and use for Hedging

Yellow

Modern Shrub 10

Maigold

120 x 96 (300 x 240)

Superb climber as a pillar rose, on walls, fences or into trees with moderate fragrance.

Apricot and Pink

Mini-ature Bush 8

Party Girl

12 x 24 (30 x 60)

Excellent compact exhibition rose for edging borders. Spice fragrant blooms drop off cleanly.

Yellow and Red

Mini-ature Bush 8

Dancing Flame

24 x 24 inches (60-60 cms)

Use for bedding, pot, cut flower and outstanding for exhibition

Yellow and Red

Hybrid Tea Shrub 4

Tequila Sunrise

30 x 24 (75 x 60)

Use for bedding, hedges and growing in pots. Slight fragrance.

Orange, Red and Yellow

Flori-bunda Shrub 5

Living Fire

30 x 24 (75 x 60)

Tolerates shade. Use for bedding, hedging and for slight fragrance cut flower.

Apricot yellow and pink

Hybrid Tea Shrub 4

Apricot Silk

36 x 18 (90 x 45)

Excellent cut flower and moderately fragrant.

Pink, Apricot and ivory

Flori-bunda Shrub 5

Fifi

36 x 24 inches (90-60 cms)

Reliable upright rose for bedding, in pots and very fragrant cut flower.

Excellent Roses

I think that the following Climbers are excellent in their type:-

Bloom Colour

Rose Type

Rose Name

Height x Width in inches

Comments

Climbers/Ramblers

Apricot

Clim-ber 17

Breath of Life

120 x 72 (300 x 180)

Reliable climber and moderately fragrant cut flowers.

Lavender -Purple flecked with White

Ram-bler 16

Veilchen-blau

180 x 144 (450 x 360)

The blue Rose is an ideal and beautiful companion for cream and white ramblers when grown through old trees or supported on a wall facing any direction. Moderately fragrant.

Pink

Modern Clim-ber 13

Aloha

120 x 72 (300 x 180)

Superb climber as a pillar rose, on walls, fences or into pergolas. Very fragrant cut flower.

Pink

Bour-bon Shrub 21

Zephirine Drouhin

120 x 72 (300 x 180)

Thornless shoots with very fragrant blooms on a pillar rose, or climber which can be grown into trees.

Pink

Ram-bler 16

New Dawn

120 x 96 (300 x 240)

Ideal smaller rambling rose with very fragrant blooms.

Pink

Clim-ber 17

Pink Perpetue

144 x 96 (360 x 240)

One of the outstanding modern climbers with moderate fragrance, excellent foliage and tolerant of shade.

Pink

Clim-ber 17

Lady Sylvia Climbing

180 x 120 (450 x 300)

One of the most popular climbers of the 1930s. Used for hedges, grown into trees and provides very fragrant cut flowers.

Pink

Clim-ber 17

Madamme Gregoire Staechelin

180 x 120 (450 x 300)

A climbing rose of exceptional vigour. If it is not dead-headed it produces superb, large, orange-red hips in the autumn.

Red

Clim-ber 17

Dublin Bay

84 x 60 (210 x 150)

A very good Pillar Rose as well as a large shrub or a hedge; with slightly fragrant blooms.

Red

Modern Clim-ber 13

Thats Jazz

120 x 72 (300 x 180)

Vigorous and disease resistant. Use as Climber, Pillar rose, in trees and in pots. Slightly fragrant blooms.

White

Clim-ber 17

Mrs Herbert Stevens Climbing

144 x 96 (360 x 240)

One of the best white climbers. Very fragrant cut blooms.

White

Ram-bler 16

Alberic Barbier

180 x 120 (450 x 300)

One of the best ramblers for growing into trees. Slightly fragrant blooms.

White

Noisette Climber 36

Madamme Alfred Carriere

180 x 120 (450 x 300)

Growth is vigorous with sparse thorns. It flowers almost continuously throughout the season and is quite tolerant of a North-facing wall situation. Moderately fragrant Climber or Pillar rose. Grow into trees. Good for cutting.

White

Ram-bler 16

Rambling Rector

240 x 180 (600 x 450)

Superb as a tree or hedgerow climber with fragrant flowers and small hips in the autumn.

White

Ram-bler 16

Seagull

300 x 216 (750 x 540)

An established plant in full flush of highly scented flower is a sight to remember. Grow into trees

White

Clim-ber 18

Wedding Day

360 x 180 (900 x 450)

Thornless stems growth is rampant, capable of festooning tall trees.

Yellow

Clim-ber 13

Laura Ford

96 x 36 (240 x 90)

Constantly in non-fragrant flower during the Summer. Use as Pillar Rose or in Pots

Yellow

Ram-bler 16

Emily Gray

180 x 120 (450 x 300)

An outstanding moderately fragrant rose. Very floriferous on a vigorous plant.

This plant gallery has thumbnail pictures of rose flowers in the following colours:-

• (o)Other Colours
• (o)Orange
• (o)Pink
• (o)Red
• (o)White
• (o)Yellow
• (o)2 or More Colours

This plant gallery has thumbnail pictures of rose foliage in the following colours:-

• (o)Green
• (o)Grey
• (o)Purple
• Red
• (o)Bronze
• Variegated White (or Silver) and Green
• Variegated Yellow and Green
• White
• Yellow
• Foliage changes colour from Summer to Autumn
• Foliage changes colour from 1 season to another

Rose Class

This plant gallery has bloom thumbnail pictures of Modern Roses from the World Federation of Rose Societies Rose Classes in the following classes as adopted by the British National Rose Society last century:-

• The links for these Rose Classes are in the table on the left:-
• (o)1 Modern Shrub Recurrent Large-Flowered
• (o)2 Modern Shrub Recurrent Cluster-Flowered
• (o)3 Ground-Cover Recurrent
• (o)4 Large-Flowered Hybrid Tea
• (o)5 Cluster-Flowered Floribunda
• 6 - Dwarf Cluster-Flowered
• (o)6a - Dwarf Large-Flowered (Mini-flora in the American Rose Society Classification)
• (o)7 Polyantha
• (o)8 Miniature and Patio
• 9 Modern Shrub Non-Recurrent Large-Flowered
• (o)10 Modern Shrub Non-Recurrent Cluster-Flowered
• (o)11 Ground-Cover Non-Recurrent
• (o)12 Rambler Recurrent
• (o)13 Large-Flowered Climber Recurrent
• (o)14 Cluster-Flowered Climber Recurrent
• 15 Climbing Miniature Recurrent
• (o)16 Rambler Non-Recurrent
• (o)17 Large-Flowered Climber Non-Recurrent
• (o)18 Cluster-Flowered Climber Non-Recurrent
• 19 Climbing Miniature Non-Recurrent

This plant gallery has bloom thumbnail pictures of Old Garden Roses from the World Federation of Rose Societies Rose Classes in the following classes as adopted by the British National Rose Society last century:-

• (o)20 Alba (Shrubs)
• (o)21 Bourbon (Shrubs)
• 22 Boursalt (Shrub)
• (o)23 China (Shrubs
• (o)24 Damask (Shrubs)
• (o)25 Gallica (Shrubs)
• 26 Hybrid Perpetual (Shrubs)
• (o)27 Moss (Shrubs)
• (o)28 Portland (Shrubs)
• (o)29 Provence (Centifolia) (Shrubs)
• (o)30 Sweet Briar (Shrubs)
• (o)31 Tea (Shrubs)
• 32 Ayrshire
• 33 Climbing Bourbon (Climbers)
• 34 Climbing Boursalt (Climbers)
• 35 Climbing Tea (Climbers)
• (o)36 Noisette (Climbers)
• (o)37 Sempervirens (Climbers) 1

This plant gallery has overall shape thumbnail pictures of Wild Roses from the World Federation of Rose Societies Rose Classes in the following classes as adopted by the British National Rose Society last century:-

• (o)38 Wild Roses Non-Climbing
• (o)39 Wild Roses Climbing

Thie Rose Plant 2 gallery has thumbnail pictures of rose hips with their colour:-

• (o)Rose Hip Colour

If you click on a thumbnail another window opens with up to 9 larger images (Flower, Foliage, Flower Bud, Old Garden Roses Group Plant Shape or Modern Roses Group shape and Hips- for Flower, Foliage, Shape and Hip pages) and the following plant description:-

1. Plant Name
2. Common Name
3. Soil. They prefer fertile, humus-rich, well-drained soil like acidic sand.
4. Sun Aspect
5. Soil Moisture
6. Plant Type
7. Height x Spread in feet
8. Foliage
9. Flower Colour in Month(s). Hips.
10. Comments - Form Type, Pruning Group, Native UK Plant.

The Site Map for Individual Rose Plants gives you access to the above 9 larger images and plant description for all the plants detailed in this Rose Plant Gallery in alphabetical order following the Old Garden Roses or Modern Roses Group name.

The Rose Plant 2 gallery has pictures of (o) rose flower beds with description.

Together with the Plants, Companion Planting and Offbeat Glossary sections of this website, these photographs should aid your choice of plant for your garden.

Most of this gallery photographs were provided by Chris Garnons-Williams, and others by R. V. Roger and Christine Foord.

Site design and content copyright ©November 2009.
Page structure amended in September 2012. Mail-order Nursery links updated June 2013 and again in May 2014. Flower Colour and Rose Use added to Non-RHS Bowes-Lyon Rose Garden Rose Index above in May 2014.
Format of text updated, added this table and the 343 roses table to each page Feb 2024.
Chris Garnons-Williams.

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343 Roses with only bloom colour, rose use and rose name in this Index menu of Roses from Rose Plant Gallery, where they came from the nursery of R.V. Roger, who gave permission for me to use his photos from his website, and this gallery was created in 2007-2009.

Index of 147 Roses with only bloom, photo, rose use, rose name, rose class number, height and width in this Index menu of Roses from Other Roses A-F , Other Roses G-R , Other Roses S-Z Galleries, where they were the extra Roses that I took photos of in the nursery field of R.V. Roger Nurseries in 2014 is in the Rose Plant Site Map Page.

Copied from

Ivydene Gardens Other Roses S-Z Gallery:
Click on links below to see roses in other colours and different rose use for the Roses grown by R.V. Roger in 2009:-