Ivydene Gardens Stage 2 - Infill2 Plants Index Gallery: |
Ivydene Gardens Stage 2 - Infill2 Plants Index Gallery: |
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Botanical Plant Name with link to |
Flower Colour Sun Aspect of Full Sun, with link to external website for photo/data |
Flowering Months with link to |
Height with Spacings or Width (W) in inches (cms) 1 inch = |
Foliage Colour followed by with link to Australia or New Zealand mail-order supplier
with data for rows in |
Plant Type is:-
followed by:-
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Comments |
Adjacent Planting |
Plant Associations It is sad to reflect that in England so few gardens open to the public label their plants or label them so that the label is visible when that plant is in flower, so that visitors can identify; and then later locate and purchase that plant. Few mail-order nurseries provide the detail as shown in my rose or heather galleries. If you want to sell a product, it is best to display it. When I sold my Transit van, I removed its signage, cleaned it and took photos of the inside and outside before putting them onto an advert in Autotrader amongst more than 2000 other Transit vans - it was sold in 20 minutes. If mail-order nurseries could put photos to the same complexity from start of the year to its end with the different foliage colours and stages of flowering on Wikimedia Commons, then the world could view the plant before buying it, and idiots like me would have valid material to work with. I have been in the trade (until ill health forced my Sole Trader retirement in 2013) working in designing, constructing and maintaining private gardens for decades and since 2005 when this site was started, I have asked any nursery in the world to supply photos. R.V. Roger in Yorkshire allowed me to use his photos from his website in 2007 and when I got a camera to spend 5 days in July 2014 at my expense taking photos of his roses growing in his nursery field, whilst his staff was propagating them. I gave him a copy of those photos. |
Alpine - The Alpines that Dislike Lime In their soil preferences, alpine plants may be divided into those that are tolerant of lime and those that dislike it. In horticultural jargon, the former are termed calcicole, and the latter calcifuge, though the gardener may designate them as lime-loving and lime-hating. Fortunately, the alpines that are tolerant of lime far outnumber those that dislike it. The liking or disliking of plants for lime, however, is not so much an active or direct reaction to lime itself, but to the growing conditions and chemical status that the presence or absence of lime in the soil creates. Lime as a base element plays a major role in influencing the acid-alkaline balance, usually expressed in terms of pH values - a measurement of the hydrogen ion concentration or power - is not static but subject to slight incessant changes as chemical reactions take place. On the pH scale, the figure 7 represents approximately neutrality with acid and base (alkali) elements more or less in equilibrium. Values below 7 indicate acidity. The smaller the number, the greater the acidity. Values above 7 indicate alkalinity. The numbers are in geometric progression. A soil of pH 5.0 is ten times more acid than one of pH 6.0. The pH value of a soil can be ascertained with sufficient accuracy by means of a small soil-testing outfit based on indicator fluid. Since calcium - the element provided by lime - is the chief base-forming mineral in our soils, the pH of a soil is a fair indication of its lime status. No soils lack calcium, but the more acid a soil is, the less exchangeable lime (or calcium) is available to enter into chemical reactions. This is important since it affects the availability of other mineral nutrients to plants. For instance, with increasing acidity phosphates become less available, while with decreasing acidity and alkalinity the availability of potassium, iron, manganese, phosphate, and some minor or trace nutrient elements is reduced. Most plants, however, have a fair tolerance of several degrees of acidity. In the majority of cases, the ideal pH lies within pH 6 and 6.5, or moderate to slight acidity. But some plants have wider, some narrower tolerances. A number of plants, for instance, grow quite well in alkaline-reacting soils of a pH 7 to 7.5, though the number is limited. On the other hand, the limit of acidity for many plants is just below pH 5.5. There is also a more or less select group of plants which are unable to thrive in soils of an acidity much greater than pH 5.0, and which are happiest in soils of pH 5-0 to 4.5. These are the so-called calcifuge or lime-hating plants. Their difficulty is that the presence of lime in soils of less acidity not only makes iron unavailable to them but also prevents them utilizing any iron they may be able to take up. Iron is, of course, essential to the formation and functioning of the green colouring matter, chlorophyll, of plants. Without iron, the calcifuge plants develop pale green to yellow leaves, or chlorosis, and eventually die unless iron is made available to them. So sensitive are these plants to iron deficiency, that they must be grown on strongly acid soils to thrive, since only such soils can provide enough soluble and available iron to them. Consequently, the alpines that dislike lime must be set apart in cultivation, and the orthodox and easiest way of meeting their needs is to plant them in strongly acid soil devoid of mineral lime. On acid sands, peaty soils and soils reclaimed from woodlands and rich in leaf-mould, there is lttle difficulty. On soils of a pH greater than 5.5, however, special soil provision must be made for the calcifuge alpines. On soils that are acid, but not sufficiently acid, between pH 55 and 6.8, it is possible to grow these alpines by making separate beds of a suitably acid soil, or by taking out the existing soil and replacing it with a very acid one. On soils containing much lime, however, an oasis of acid soil will be subject to corruption from the surrounding soil, as in time earthworms and other soil agencies will bring in lime, and slow chlorosis will be the fate of the plants. Unfortunately, chlorosis among calcifuge plants is not very amenable to correction by supplying iron salts. The iron, applied in a simple soluble chemical salt such as ferrous sulphate, is promptly precipitated out of solution by the lime present in the soil and very little gets through to the plants. Recently, however, it has been found that this reaction can be circumvented by the application of iron in association with an organic compound known as chelate , or sequestrene. Broadly, iron in a chelated compound can be absorbed by the plant without being precipitated in the soil. The amounts required are in terms of a fraction of an ounce per plant, and it seems likely that with the help of the chelates the growing of the calcifuge plants in soils containing a little too much lime will be greatly eased. Whether the chelates will permit the growing of calcifuge plants on highly calcareous soils, such as chalk, is not yet certain, for the chelates themselves are subject to decomposition. Moreover, an alkaline soil, such as one on chalk, often raises problems concerning other nutrients and their availabilty. Peat Beds The peat walls are constructed of peat blocks or turves, taken from the top of a natural peat deposit, and preferably fibrous in character. If they are full of plant roots, such as heather or sedges, so much the better. Most peat producers can offer these blocks from the strippings taken off in exposing the sterile peat underneath. The dried blocks of fuel peat are not satisfactory. The blocks should be at least 4, preferably 6 inches (10-15 cms) thick, 8 inches (20 cms) wide, and 12 inches (30 cms) long. The site for the peat bed is deeply dug, and if of a limy soil, liberally dusted with powdered sulphur (0.5-0.75 lb. per square yard - 227-340 grammes per square 0.836 square metres). The peat blocks are laid in the way a brick wall is laid, being bonded with the vertical joints of one course being overlapped by the blocks in the course laid on top of it. But the wall should have a gradual slope inwards, each course being stepped back about an inch (2.5 cms). Each block should be scrutinized for dangerous perennial weeds like Sheep's Sorrel or Horsetails which need to be removed, roots and all. Grass is less important as the blocks are placed grass-side down. If at all dryish, it is well worth while soaking the blocks overnight in a bath of water. They do need to be thoroughly moist prior to laying. On a bank or sloping site, the peat bed can take the form of a terrace, and the peat walling can be informal and irregular in line in an informal garden, or as straight as desired. Walls can be built up to 48-60 inches (120-150 cms) high, but it is wise to allow for a gradual settling of 1 inch in 6 (2.5 cms in 15 cms) in the completed peat bed. A 48 inch (120 cms) wall is usually ample, and if necessary a second terrace can be constructed on top of the first terrace. On a flat site, the island bed can be made, or a series of beds with a path winding through. Here, the walling will be fairly low at the base, though it can be varied in heioght for effect, while to the centres of the beds, somewhat irregular, angled or bow-shaped, bank-like promontories of peat can be constructed, simulating natural banks or mounds arising from the ground. The filling of the peat beds should go forward as the walls are raised, the soil mixture - one of 2 parts by volume leaf-mould, 1 part peat, 1 part loam, 1 part coarse sand - being firmed in behind each layer of peat blocks. Each course of peat blocks should be trodden down very firm, a little of the soil mixture sprinkled on as 'mortar' and the next course then laid. When finished it may look rather rough, but with weathering and plant growth, the peat-walled bed becomes mellowed and moulded to fit in beautifully with the garden scene. The surface of the beds or terraces should have a slight slope forward, to display the plants and give them even lighting. But the peat bed does not need full sun. Many calcifuge plants are happiest in part shade, while some can tolerate much shade. So the peat bed is often a good solution for the shadier part of the garden. In management, it is important that the peat walls should not be allowed to dry out, especially in the first year or so when plant cover is not extensive. Once peat becomes dry, it is very difficult to moisten it again, and it is best to turn the hose spray on at the first signs of the peat turning lighter coloured at the exposed surfaces. There is a tendency for peat beds to settle and sink gradually. This can be circumvented by top-dressings of original soil mixture or peat or even the decayed mould of pine needles, beech or oak leaves. Many plants, such as Ericas will grow upward and accomodate themselves to the top-dressings; others may need to be lifted a few inches in the soil occasionally. Nevertheless, the tendency of organic matter such ass peat will be to decay and gradually moulder away. The life of peat walling and peat beds is not for ever, tthough well-made gardens of this kind often have a life period of 10 years or more. Much depends upon their planting, for a bed well penetrated with the interlacing of roots and a good cover of top growth will go on being a delight for a considerable number of years. |
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Andromeda polifolia v. compacta (bog rosemary 'Compacta') Supplier in UK |
Pinkish-White
Part Shade |
May |
8 x 12 |
Dark Green Moist, and well-drained Sand or poorly drained Clay soil |
Sh E Acid
ALL PLANTS |
Andromeda polifolia v. compacta makes a rounded cushion, with round-urn-shaped, pinkish-white, waxy flowers in May. Part Shade. Propagate by softwood cuttings, suckers or layering. Needs acidic conditions, suitable for shaded rock garden or damp shady border. Bee and Butterfly friendly. "Clusters of shell pink flowers; V-VI; foliage glaucous green; height 20 cm; spread 30 cm; habit compact, broad making a neat mound." from the Heather Society - A friendly group, full of knowledge on growing heathers and their uses in your garden. |
First Choices There are other Andromeda used as alpines in Rock Garden Plants Suitable for Small Gardens in Colour Wheel Gallery |
Andromeda polifolia 'Compacta'. By Ghislain118 (AD) http://www.fleurs-des-montagnes.net via Wikimedia Commons. |
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As evergreens they will keep moving slowly with a temperature not below 45 degrees Fahrenheit (7.2 degrees Celsius). |
12-18 inches (30-45 cms) high. Compact evergreen, with saucer-shaped violet-purple flowers, June; the latest to flower of the alpine rhododendrons. |
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Rhododendron racemosum 'Forrest's Dwarf' Supplier in UK |
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stop those which are not making a natural break, and in May they will be ready for a position in a shaded peat plunge. Run the peat right over the pots and keep them well hosed, for if they are to make good plants in a reasonable time, the artificial equivalent of the quick drainage, and ample water-supply from the melting snow fields of the Himalayas must be provided, so between May and August they can take plenty of water. |
18 inches (45 cms) high. Compact, evergreen, small oval leaves, covered with clusters of rose-pink, tubular flowers, April-May. American Rhododendron Society has a Rhododendron Plant Search facility for further details on many Rhodos and Azaleas |
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Rhododendron radicans |
Part Shade |
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9-12 x |
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The ashes below the plunge should be a good thick layer to take the water away fast: a bed with solid clay below, or sunk below ground level needs careful attention to drainage, or it will be as bad a death trap as a neglected frame overhung by trees. |
4 inches (10 cms) high. A pygmy evergreen, mat-like, with solitary, saucer-shaped purple flowers, May. |
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Rhododendron russatum (Rhododendron cantabile) |
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planting size, and will do better than large open-ground bushes on the rock garden. Here, so long as the same type of soil is used, and the situation not too dry, they will grow even in full sun, though shade or semishade is preferred. |
Upright habit 24 inches (60 cms) high, good deep violet, cuttings only. Carpeting plant, best grown in clumps in full light away from drips of trees. |
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Rhododendron saluenense Supplier in UK |
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of the four sand to one peat mixture on the peat below, heap some of the mixture over the branch, and either place a flat stone on the top, or pin it down with a stout 'hairpin' of galvanised iron wire, about 18 or 20 gauge. These should remain on the plant for a year, layering in June, and digging up the layerings the following June, for potting, growing through the winter in a cold frame and spring planting. |
18 inches (45 cms) high. Charming evergreen of small oval leaves, with rose-purple flowers in twos or threes, April-May. |
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Rhododendron scintillans (polycladum) Supplier in UK |
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Watering the layerings with spent rooting compound will improve the size of the root system, but will not hasten the process, which secures good plants, but fewer, in 18 months instead of 2 years. |
18-24 inches (45-60 cms) high. Evergreen, twiggy, small-leaved shrub, with clusters of lavender-blue flowers, April. |
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Moist, well-drained |
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The commercial method of increase is by division of the plant after flowering in August or September. The bulbet, which are about the size of sweet-pea seeds, are planted about 4 inches (10 cms) apart in a bed of leafmould in a well-drained frame. The leaf-mould, which should contain about one part in eight of good loam, and be free from bracken roots or sticks, needs to be from 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cms) deep on top of a thick drainage-layer. with a clear running for water. The frame is covered with lights through the centre and kept dry until March and April, when water is needed in quantity. The bulblets grow rapidly and can be potted for sale at the end of April. The frame needs rather less water in May and June, reducing the quantity until October when no more is required until spring. Iit a plant that hates pot cultivation. |
There are other Rhodohypoxis used as alpines in Rock Garden Plants Suitable for Small Gardens in Colour Wheel Gallery. In some gardens the plant does well outdoors, but it requires a pane of glass over it during wet weather in summer and all through winter. A lime-free scree with ample leaf-mould is about the most likely method. The best position is really the alpine-house, as its requirements of water in spring, gradually less through the summer, and none in winter are difficult to satisfy elsewhere. |
• 日本語: アッツザクラ Place:Osaka-fu Japan. By I, KENPEI via Wikimedia Commons. |
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A small blackberry, forming a mat of non-spiny stems with rose-pink flowers and small round berries, from the Arctic regions of North America. The seed should be sown when ripe in peaty soil, and potted when large enough to handle in the same mixture. Also increased by division in September or spring of its underground runners, planting direct or potting. |
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Rubus arcticus. By fi:Käyttäjä:kompak via Wikimedia Commons. |
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Shortia uniflora Supplier in UK |
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There are other Shortia used as alpines in Rock Garden Plants Suitable for Small Gardens in Colour Wheel Gallery |
日本語: イワウチワ（（岩団扇、学名：Shortia uniflora (Maxim.) Maxim.）、鈴鹿山脈冷川岳にて English: Nippon Bells (Shortia uniflora (Maxim.) Maxim.) in Mount Hiekawa, Inabe, Mie, Japan. By Alpsdake via Wikimedia Commons. |
The standard potting and seed-soil recipes from The Propagation of Alpines by Lawrence D. Hills are alongside: |
Normal Alpine Soil, potting and planting |
Lime-Lover's Mixture |
Peaty Mixture |
Leafy Mixture |
Gritty Mixture |
Normal Seed Soil |
Peaty Seed Soil |
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STAGE 2 |
STAGE 1 GARDEN STYLE INDEX GALLERY PAGES Links to pages in Table alongside on the left with Garden Design Topic Pages |
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Plant Type |
STAGE 2 INFILL PLANT INDEX GALLERIES 1, 2, 3 with its Cultivation Requirements |
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Alpines for Rock Garden (See Rock Garden Plant Flowers) |
Alpines and Walls |
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Aquatic |
Water-side Plants |
Wildlife Pond Plants |
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Cut Flowers |
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Scent / Fra-grance with Annuals for Cool or Shady Places from 1916 |
Low-allergen Gardens for Hay Fever Sufferers |
Annual Plant Pairing Ideas and Colour Schemes with Annuals |
Medium-Growing Annuals |
Tall-Growing Annuals with White Flowers from 1916 |
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Black or Brown Flowers |
Blue to Purple Flowers |
Green Flowers with Annuals and Biennials from 1916 |
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Vining Annuals |
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Bedding for |
Bedding for Light Sandy Soil |
Bedding for Acid Soil |
Bedding for Chalky Soil |
Bedding for Clay Soil |
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Attract-ive to Wildlife including Bees, Butterflies and Moths |
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Bedding Plant Use |
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Use in Hanging Baskets |
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Flower Simple Shape |
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Use in Pots and Troughs |
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Flower Elabo-rated Shape |
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Patio Con-tainers with Biennials for Pots in Green-house / Con-servatory |
Bene-ficial to Wildlife with Purple and Blue Flowers from 1916 |
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Indoor Bulbs for Sep-tember |
Bulbs in Window-boxes |
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Any Plant Type (some grown in Cool Green-house) Bloom-ing in |
Any Plant Type (some grown in Cool Green-house) Bloom-ing in |
Any Plant Type (some grown in Cool Green-house) Bloom-ing in |
Any Plant Type Blooming in Smallest of Gardens |
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Bulbs in Green-house or Stove |
Achi-menes, Alocasias, Amorpho-phalluses, Aris-aemas, Arums, Begonias, Bomar-eas, Calad-iums |
Clivias, |
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Hardy Bulbs
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Amaryllis, Antheri-cum, Antholy-zas, Apios, Arisaema, Arum, Aspho-deline, |
Cyclamen, Dicentra, Dierama, Eranthis, Eremurus, Ery-thrnium, Eucomis |
Fritillaria, Funkia, Gal-anthus, Galtonia, Gladiolus, Hemero-callis |
Hya-cinth, Hya-cinths in Pots, |
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Lilium in Pots, Malvastrum, Merendera, Milla, Narcissus, Narcissi in Pots |
Half-Hardy Bulbs |
Gladioli, Ixias, |
Plant each Bedding Plant with a Ground, Edging or Dot Plant for |
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Climber 3 sector Vertical Plant System with
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Raised |
Plants for Wildlife-Use as well |
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Least prot-ruding growth when fan-trained |
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Needs Conserv-atory or Green-house |
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Climber - Simple Flower Shape |
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Climber - Elabo-rated Flower Shape |
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DISCLAIMER: Links to external sites are provided as a courtesy to visitors. Ivydene Horticultural Services are not responsible for the content and/or quality of external web sites linked from this site. |
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Scented Flora of the World by Roy Genders - was first published in 1977 and this paperback edition was published on 1 August 1994 ISBN 0 7090 5440 8:- |
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I am using the above book from someone who took 30 years to compile it from notes made of his detailed observations of growing plants in preference to |
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The Propagation of Alpines by Lawrence D. Hills. Published in 1950 by Faber and Faber Limited describes every method of propagation for 2,500 species. Unlike modern books published since 1980, this one states exactly what to do and is precisely what you require if you want to increase your alpines. |
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Topic |
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STAGE 4C CULTIVATION, POSITION, USE GALLERY
Cultivation Requirements of Plant |
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Outdoor / Garden Cultivation |
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Indoor / House Cultivation |
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Cool Greenhouse (and Alpine House) Cultivation with artificial heating in the Winter |
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Conservatory Cultivation with heating throughout the year |
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Stovehouse Cultivation with heating throughout the year for Tropical Plants |
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Sun Aspect |
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Soil Type |
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Soil Moisture |
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Position for Plant |
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Ground Cover 0-24 inches (0-60 cms) |
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Ground Cover 24-72 inches (60-180 cms) |
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Ground Cover Over 72 inches (180 cms) |
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1, 2, |
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Use of Plant |
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STAGE 4D Plant Foliage |
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Flower Shape |
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Number of Flower Petals |
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Flower Shape - Simple |
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Flower Shape - Elaborated |
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Natural Arrangements |
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STAGE 4D |
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Form |
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STAGE 1
Fragrant Plants adds the use of another of your 5 senses in your garden:- |
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STAGE 2 Fan-trained Shape From Rhododendrons, boxwood, azaleas, clematis, novelties, bay trees, hardy plants, evergreens : novelties bulbs, cannas novelties, palms, araucarias, ferns, vines, orchids, flowering shrubs, ornamental grasses and trees book, via Wikimedia Commons |
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Ramblers Scramblers & Twiners by Michael Jefferson-Brown (ISBN 0 - 7153 - 0942 - 0) describes how to choose, plant and nurture over 500 high-performance climbing plants and wall shrubs, so that more can be made of your garden if you think not just laterally on the ground but use the vertical support structures including the house as well. The Gardener's Illustrated Encyclopedia of Climbers & Wall Shrubs - A Guide to more than 2000 varieties including Roses, Clematis and Fruit Trees by Brian Davis. (ISBN 0-670-82929-3) provides the lists for 'Choosing the right Shrub or Climber' together with Average Height and Spread after 5 years, 10 years and 20 years. |
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STAGE 2
The Book of Bulbs by S. Arnott, F.R.H.S. Printed by |
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STAGE 4D Trees and Shrubs suitable for Clay Soils (neutral to slightly acid) Trees and Shrubs suitable for Dry Acid Soils Trees and Shrubs suitable for Shallow Soil over Chalk Trees and Shrubs tolerant of both extreme Acidity and Alkalinity Trees and Shrubs suitable for Damp Sites Trees and Shrubs suitable for Industrial Areas Trees and Shrubs suitable for Cold Exposed Areas Trees and Shrubs suitable for Seaside Areas Shrubs suitable for Heavy Shade Shrubs and Climbers suitable for NORTH- and EAST-facing Walls Shrubs suitable for Ground Cover Trees and Shrubs of Upright or Fastigiate Habit Trees and Shrubs with Ornamental Bark or Twigs Trees and Shrubs with Bold Foliage Trees and Shrubs for Autumn Colour Trees and Shrubs with Red or Purple Foliage Trees and Shrubs with Golden or Yellow Foliage Trees and Shrubs with Grey or Silver Foliage Trees and Shrubs with Variegated Foliage Trees and Shrubs bearing Ornamental Fruit Trees and Shrubs with Fragrant or Scented Flowers Trees and Shrubs with Aromatic Foliage Flowering Trees and Shrubs for Every Month:- |
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Soil contains living material that requires the right structure and organic material to provide food for plants. If the structure of the soil tends towards a loam of about 20-50% sand, silt and 20 - 40% clay with a pH between 6 and 7.5, then this suitable for a high proportion of plants. Otherwise an application of a mulch of sand and horticultural grit for clay, or clay and horticultural grit for sand, is required to improve plant growth. If an annual mulch of organic material (Spent Mushroom Compost, Cow Manure, Horse Manure does contain weed seeds and should only be used under hedges or ground-covering trees/shrubs) is applied of 100mm (4”) thickness to the soil, then the living material in the soil can continue their role of feeding the plants. This mulch will stop the ground drying out due to wind or sun having direct access to the ground surface. The annual loss of organic matter from soils in cool humid climates is about 6lbs per square metre. If there is also a drip-feed irrigation system under the mulch (which is used for 4 continuous hours a week - when there is no rain that week from April to September), then the living material can get their food delivered in solution or suspension. If the prunings from your garden are shredded (or reduced to 4” lengths) and then applied as a mulch to your flower beds or hedges, followed by 0.5” depth of grass mowings on top; this will also provide a start for improvement of your soil. The 0.5" layer can be applied again after a fortnight; when the aerobic composting stage (the aerobic composting creates heat and 0.5" - 1 cm - thickness does not become too hot to harm the plants next to it) has been completed during the summer. Anaerobic (without using air) composting then completes the process. Application of Seaweed Meal for Trace Elements and other chemicals required to replenish what has been used by the plants in the previous year for application in Spring are detailed in the How are Chemicals stored and released from Soil? page.
You normally eat and drink at least 3 times every day to keep you growing, healthy and active; plants also require to eat and drink every day. Above 5 degrees Celcius plants tend to grow above ground and below 5 degrees Celcius they tend to grow their roots underground. 2 minor points to remember with their result-
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Soils and their Treatment
Soil Improvement |
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and • Watering Schedule - Far and away the best course of action against slugs in your garden is a simple adjustment in the watering schedule. Slugs are most active at night and are most efficient in damp conditions. Avoid watering your garden in the evening if you have a slug problem. Water in the morning - the surface soil will be dry by evening. Studies show this can reduce slug damage by 80%.
• Seaweed - If you have access to seaweed, it's well worth the effort to gather. Seaweed is not only a good soil amendment for the garden, it's a natural repellent for slugs. Mulch with seaweed around the base of plants or perimeter of bed. Pile it on 3" to 4" thick - when it dries it will shrink to just an inch or so deep. Seaweed is salty and slugs avoid salt. Push the seaweed away from plant stems so it's not in direct contact. During hot weather, seaweed will dry and become very rough which also deters the slugs.
• Copper - Small strips of copper can be placed around flower pots or raised beds as obstructions for slugs to crawl over. Cut 2" strips of thin copper and wrap around the lower part of flower pots, like a ribbon. Or set the strips in the soil on edge, making a "fence" for the slugs to climb. Check to make sure no vegetation hangs over the copper which might provide a 'bridge' for the slugs. Copper barriers also work well around wood barrels used as planters.
• Diatomaceous Earth - Diatomaceous earth (Also known as "Insect Dust") is the sharp, jagged skeletal remains of microscopic creatures. It lacerates soft-bodied pests, causing them to dehydrate. A powdery granular material, it can be sprinkled around garden beds or individual plants, and can be mixed with water to make a foliar spray.
• Electronic "slug fence" - An electronic slug fence is a non-toxic, safe method for keeping slugs out of garden or flower beds. The Slugs Away fence is a 24-foot long, 5" ribbon-like barrier that runs off a 9 volt battery. When a slug or snail comes in contact with the fence, it receives a mild static sensation that is undetectable to animals and humans. This does not kill the slug, it cause it to look elsewhere for forage. The battery will power the fence for about 8 months before needing to be replaced. Extension kits are availabe for increased coverage. The electronic fence will repel slugs and snails, but is harmless to people and pets.
• Lava Rock - Like diatomaceous earth, the abrasive surface of lava rock will be avoided by slugs. Lava rock can be used as a barrier around plantings, but should be left mostly above soil level, otherwise dirt or vegetation soon forms a bridge for slugs to cross.
• Salt - If all else fails, go out at night with the salt shaker and a flashlight. Look at the plants which have been getting the most damage and inspect the leaves, including the undersides. Sprinkle a bit of salt on the slug and it will kill it quickly. Not particularly pleasant, but use as a last resort. (Note: some sources caution the use of salt, as it adds a toxic element to the soil. This has not been our experience, especially as very little salt is used.)
• Beer - Slugs are attracted to beer. Set a small amount of beer in a shallow wide jar buried in the soil up to its neck. Slugs will crawl in and drown. Take the jar lid and prop it up with a small stick so rain won't dilute the beer. Leave space for slugs to enter the trap.
• Overturned Flowerpots, Grapefruit Halves, Board on Ground - Overturned flowerpots, with a stone placed under the rim to tilt it up a bit, will attract slugs. Leave overnight, and you'll find the slugs inside in the morning. Grapefruit halves work the same way, with the added advantage of the scent of the fruit as bait.
• Garlic-based slug repellents
Laboratory tests at the University of Newcastle-Upon-Tyne (UK) revealed that a highly refined garlic product (ECOguard produced by ECOspray Ltd, a British company that makes organic pesticides) was an effective slug killer. Look for garlic-based slug deterrents which will be emerging under various brand names, as well as ECOguard.
• Coffee grounds; new caffeine-based slug/snail poisons - Coffee grounds scattered on top of the soil will deter slugs. The horticultural side effects of using strong grounds such as espresso on the garden, however, are less certain. When using coffee grounds, moderation is advised. |
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UKButterflies Larval Foodplants website page lists the larval foodplants used by British butterflies. The name of each foodplant links to a Google search. An indication of whether the foodplant is a primary or secondary food source is also given. Please note that the Butterfly you see for only a short time has grown up on plants as an egg, caterpillar and chrysalis for up to 11 months, before becoming a butterfly. If the plants that they live on during that time are removed, or sprayed with herbicide, then you will not see the butterfly. |
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Plants used by the Butterflies follow the Plants used by the Egg, Caterpillar and Chrysalis as stated in |
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Plant Name |
Butterfly Name |
Egg/ Caterpillar/ Chrysalis/ Butterfly |
Plant Usage |
Plant Usage Months |
Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
10 days in May-June |
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Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
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Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
- |
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Egg, |
1 egg at base of plant. |
Late August-April |
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Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
- |
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Egg, |
1 egg laid on underside of leaflets or bracts. |
7 days in June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg laid on underside of leaflets or bracts. |
7 days in June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg laid under the leaf or on top of the flower. |
7 days in August. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
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Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
10 days in May-June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
2 weeks |
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Cabbages - Large White eats all cruciferous plants, such as cabbages, mustard, turnips, radishes, cresses, nasturtiums, wild mignonette and dyer's weed |
Egg,
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40-100 eggs on both surfaces of leaf. |
May-June and August-Early September. 4.5-17 days. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on underside of leaf. |
May-June and August. 7 days. |
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Cabbages:- |
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of leaf. |
July or August; hatches in 3 days. |
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Cabbages:- |
Egg, |
1 egg laid in the tight buds and flowers. |
May-June 7 days. |
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Cherry with |
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
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Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
- |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
10 days in May-June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
6 days in May-June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
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(Common CowWheat, Field CowWheat) |
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 16 days in June. |
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Currants |
Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
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Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 20 days in July. |
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Dog Violet with |
Egg, |
1 egg on oak or pine tree trunk |
15 days in July. |
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Dog Violet with |
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf or stem. |
Hatches after 15 days in May-June. |
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Dog Violet with |
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf or stem. |
Hatches after 10 days in May-June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
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Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
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False Brome is a grass (Wood Brome, Wood False-brome and Slender False-brome) |
Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
... |
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Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 20 days in July. |
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Egg, |
1 egg laid on underside of leaflets or bracts. |
7 days in June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf or stem. |
Hatches after 10 days in May-June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
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Egg, |
1 egg laid under the leaf or on top of the flower. |
7 days in August. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. 5 or 6 eggs may be deposited by separate females on one leaf. |
14 days in July-August. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
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Egg, |
1 egg laid in the tight buds and flowers. |
May-June 7 days. |
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Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 20 days in July. |
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Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
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Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
1 then |
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Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
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Egg, |
1 egg at base of plant. |
Late August-April. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
10 days in May-June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
2 weeks |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
6 days in May-June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on underside of leaf. |
May-June and August. 7 days. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. 5 or 6 eggs may be deposited by separate females on one leaf. |
14 days in July-August. |
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Narrow-leaved Plantain (Ribwort Plantain) |
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 16 days in June. |
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Narrow-leaved Plantain (Ribwort Plantain) |
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 16 days in June. |
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Nasturtium from Gardens |
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of leaf. |
May-June and August. 7 days. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on tree trunk |
15 days in July. |
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Mountain pansy, |
Egg, Chrysalis |
1 egg laid under the leaf or on top of the flower. |
7 days in August. 3 weeks in September |
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Egg, |
1 egg on tree trunk. |
15 days in July. |
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Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 20 days in July. |
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Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
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Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
- |
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Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
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Egg, |
1 egg laid under the leaf or on top of the flower. |
7 days in August. |
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Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
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Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 16 days in June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
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Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
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Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
2 weeks |
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Trefoils 1, 2, 3 |
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
6 days in May-June. |
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Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
- |
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Egg, |
1 egg laid on underside of leaflets or bracts. |
7 days in June. |
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Violets:- |
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of leaf or on stalk. |
July-August for 17 days. |
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Violets:- |
Egg, |
1 egg on stem or stalk near plant base. |
July to hatch in 8 months in March. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
2 weeks. |
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Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. 5 or 6 eggs may be deposited by separate females on one leaf. |
14 days in July-August. |
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Willow |
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
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Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 20 days in July. |
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Plants used by the Butterflies |
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Plant Name |
Butterfly Name |
Egg/ Caterpillar/ Chrysalis/ Butterfly |
Plant Usage |
Plant Usage Months |
Asters |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
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Runner and Broad Beans in fields and gardens |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-June or July-September. |
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Aubretia in gardens |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June or August till killed by frost and damp in September-November |
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Butterfly |
Eats sap exuding from trunk. |
April-Mid June and Mid July-Early September for second generation. |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
20 days. |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June |
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Holly Blue |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-Mid June and Mid July-Early September for second generation. |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October. |
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Buddleias |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October. |
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Wood White |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June. |
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Cabbage and cabbages in fields |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-June or July-September. |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
July-October |
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Adonis Blue |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
1 Month during Mid-May to Mid-June or during August-September |
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Pale Clouded Yellow |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June or August till killed by frost and damp in September-November |
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Cow-wheat |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June-July |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-Mid June and Mid July-Early September for second generation. |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
3 weeks between May and September |
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Germander Speedwell (Veronica chamaedrys - Birdseye Speedwell) |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June-July |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October. |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
30 days in May-June. |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-September |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
May-June for 18 days. |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
1 Month. |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October. |
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Painted Lady |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
July-October. |
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Marigolds in gardens |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June or August till killed by frost and damp in September-November |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
1 Month during Mid-May to Mid-June or during August-September. |
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Michaelmas Daisies |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-June or July-September. |
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Narrow-leaved Plantain (Ribwort Plantain) |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June-July |
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Nasturtiums in gardens |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-June or July-September |
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Butterfly |
Eats sap exuding from trunk. |
April-Mid June and Mid July-Early September for second generation. |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June. |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June. |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
July-October. |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
July-May |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
7 weeks in July-August. |
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Comma |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October. |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
3 weeks between May and September |
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Trefoils 1, 2, 3 |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
1 Month during Mid-May to Mid-June or during August-September |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
20 days in August. |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June.
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June-July |
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Apple/Pear/Cherry/Plum Fruit Tree Blossom in Spring |
Butterfly |
Eats Nectar |
April-May |
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Rotten Fruit |
Butterfly |
Drinks juice |
July-September |
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Tree sap and damaged ripe fruit, which are high in sugar |
Butterfly |
Hibernates inside hollow trees or outhouses until March. Eats sap or fruit juice until April. |
10 months in June-April |
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Wild Flowers |
Large Skipper |
Butterfly |
Eats Nectar |
June-August |
Links to the other Butterflies:- Black Hairstreak |
Topic - Wildlife on Plant Photo Gallery. Some UK native butterflies eat material from UK Native Wildflowers and live on them as eggs, caterpillars (Large Skipper eats False Brome grass - Brachypodium sylvaticum - for 11 months from July to May as a Caterpillar before becoming a Chrysalis within 3 weeks in May) chrysalis or butterflies ALL YEAR ROUND. |
Wild Flower Family Page (the families within "The Pocket Guide to Wild Flowers" by David McClintock & R.S.R. Fitter, Published in 1956 They are not in Common Name alphabetical order and neither are the common names of the plants detailed within each family. The information in the above book is back-referenced to the respective page in "Flora of the British Isles" by A.R. Clapham of University of Sheffield, |
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When you look at the life history graphs of each of the 68 butterflies of Britain, you will see that they use plants throughout all 12 months - the information of what plant is used by the egg, caterpillar, chrysalis or butterfly is also given in the above first column.
THE LIFE AND DEATH OF A FLAILED CORNISH HEDGE - This details that life and death from July 1972 to 2019, with the following result:- End note, June 2008. I hear spring vetch has been officially recorded somewhere in West Cornwall and confirmed as a presence in the county, so perhaps I can be permitted to have seen it pre-1972 in the survey mile. I wonder where they found it? It's gone from hedges where it used to be, along with other scarcities and so-called scarcities that used to flourish in so many hedges unrecorded, before the flail arrived. I have given careful thought to including mention of some of the plants and butterflies. So little seems to be known of the species resident in Cornish hedges pre-flail that I realise some references may invite scepticism. I am a sceptic myself, so sympathise with the reaction; but I have concluded that, with a view to re-establishing vulnerable species, it needs to be known that they can with the right management safely and perpetually thrive in ordinary Cornish hedges. In future this knowledge could solve the increasingly difficult question of sufficient and suitable sites for sustainable wild flower and butterfly conservation - as long as it is a future in which the hedge-flail does not figure.
CHECK-LIST OF TYPES OF CORNISH HEDGE FLORA by Sarah Carter of Cornish Hedges Library:-
Titles of papers available on www.cornishhedges.co.uk:-
THE GUILD OF CORNISH HEDGERS is the non-profit-making organisation founded in 2002 to support the concern among traditional hedgers about poor standards of workmanship in Cornish hedging today. The Guild has raised public awareness of Cornwall's unique heritage of hedges and promoted free access to the Cornish Hedges Library, the only existing source of full and reliable written knowledge on Cornish hedges." |
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Recommended Plants for Wildlife in different situations
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From the Ivydene Gardens Box to Crowberry Wild Flower Families Gallery: |
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The Bumblebee Pages website is divided into five major areas:
FORCED INDOOR BULBS in Window Box Gardens. |
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Theme |
Plants |
Comments |
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Thyme |
Thymus praecox, wild thyme Thymus pulegioides Thymus leucotrichus Thymus citriodorus |
Thymes make a very fragrant, easy to care for windowbox, and an excellent choice for windy sites. The flower colour will be pinky/purple, and you can eat the leaves if your air is not too polluted. Try to get one variegated thyme to add a little colour when there are no flowers. |
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Herb |
Sage, mint, chives, thyme, rosemary |
Get the plants from the herb section of the supermarket, so you can eat the leaves. Do not include basil as it need greater fertility than the others. Pot the rosemary up separately if it grows too large. |
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Mints |
Mentha longifolia, horse mint Mentha spicata, spear mint Mentha pulgium, pennyroyal Mentha piperita, peppermint Mentha suaveolens, apple mint |
Mints are fairly fast growers, so you could start this box with seed. They are thugs, though, and will very soon be fighting for space. So you will either have to thin and cut back or else you will end up with one species - the strongest. The very best mint tea I ever had was in Marrakesh. A glass full of fresh mint was placed in front of me, and boiling water was poured into it. Then I was given a cube of sugar to hold between my teeth while I sipped the tea. Plant this box and you can have mint tea for months. |
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Heather |
Too many to list See Heather Shrub gallery |
For year-round colour try to plant varieties that flower at different times of year. Heather requires acid soils, so fertilise with an ericaceous fertilser, and plant in ericaceous compost. Cut back after flowering and remove the cuttings. It is best to buy plants as heather is slow growing. |
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Blue |
Ajuga reptans, bugle Endymion non-scriptus, bluebell Myosotis spp., forget-me-not Pentaglottis sempervirens, alkanet |
This will give you flowers from March till July. The bluebells should be bought as bulbs, as seed will take a few years to flower. The others can be started from seed. |
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Yellow |
Anthyllis vulneraria, kidney vetch Geum urbanum, wood avens Lathryus pratensis, meadow vetchling Linaria vulgaris, toadflax Lotus corniculatus, birdsfoot trefoil Primula vulgaris, primrose Ranunculus acris, meadow buttercup Ranunculus ficaria, lesser celandine |
These will give you flowers from May to October, and if you include the primrose, from February. Try to include a vetch as they can climb or trail so occupy the space that other plants can't. All can be grown from seed. |
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White |
Trifolium repens, white clover Bellis perennis, daisy Digitalis purpurea alba, white foxglove Alyssum maritimum Redsea odorata, mignonette |
All can be grown from seed. The clover and daisy will have to be cut back as they will take over. The clover roots add nitrogen to the soil. The mignonette flower doesn't look very special, but the fragrance is wonderful, and the alyssum smells of honey. |
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Pink |
Lychnis flos-cucli, ragged robin Scabiosa columbaria, small scabious Symphytum officinale, comfrey |
The comfrey will try to take over. Its leaves make an excellent fertiliser, and are very good on the compost heap, though windowbox gardeners rarely have one. |
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Fragrant |
Lonicera spp., honeysuckle Alyssum maritimum Redsea odorata, mignonette Lathyrus odoratus, sweet pea |
The sweet pea will need twine or something to climb up, so is suitable if you have sliding windows or window that open inwards. You will be rewarded by a fragrant curtain every time you open your window. |
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Spring bulbs and late wildflowers |
Galanthus nivalis, snowdrop Narcissus pseudonarcissus, narcissius Crocus purpureus, crocus Cyclamen spp. |
The idea of this box is to maximize your space. The bulbs (cyclamen has a corm) will flower and do their stuff early in the year. After flowering cut the heads off as you don't want them making seed, but leave the leaves as they fatten up the bulbs to store energy for next year. The foliage of the wildflowers will hide the bulb leaves to some extent. Then the wildflowers take over and flower till autumn |
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Aster spp., Michaelmas daisy Linaria vulgaris, toadflax Lonicera spp., honeysuckle Succisa pratensis, devil's bit scabious Mentha pulgium, pennyroyal |
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Bee Garden in Europe or North America |
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Plants for moths (including larval food plants and adult nectar sources) from Gardens for Wildlife - Practical advice on how to attract wildlife to your garden by Martin Walters as an Aura Garden Guide. Published in 2007 - ISBN 978 1905765041:- |
Marjoram - Origanum officinale |
"On average, 2 gardeners a year die in the UK as a result of poisonous plants. Those discussed in this blog illustrate a range of concerns that should be foremost in the designer’s mind." from Pages on poisonous plants in this website:- |
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Wildlife-friendly Show Gardens
Many of our gardens at Natural Surroundings demonstrate what you can do at home to encourage wildlife in your garden:-
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Ivydene Gardens Water Fern to Yew Wild Flower Families Gallery: |
Only Wildflowers detailed in the following Wildflower Colour Pages |
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Jan |
Feb |
Mar |
Apr |
May |
Jun |
Jul |
Aug |
Sep |
Oct |
Nov |
Dec |
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1 |
Blue |
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1 |
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1 |
Cream |
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1 |
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1 |
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1 |
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1 |
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1 |
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1 |
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1 |
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1 |
White A-D |
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1 Yellow |
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1 |
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1 |
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1 |
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1 |
Flowering plants of |
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1 |
Flowering plants of |
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The following table shows the linkages for the information about the plants
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STAGE 1 GARDEN STYLE INDEX GALLERY |
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Private Garden Design:- |
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<---- |
Yes |
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No |
Cannot be bothered. |
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At Home with Gard-ening Area |
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Balcony Garden or Roof Garden |
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Grow flowers for flower arranging and vegetables on Balcony Garden or Roof Garden |
Pan Plant Back-grou-nd Colour |
STAGE 3b |
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Outside Garden |
Pan, Trough and Window-Box Odds and Sods |
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Kinds of Pan Plants that may be split up and tucked in Corners and Crevices |
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Trough and Window-box plants 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 |
Pan Plant |
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You need to know the following:- |
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A) Bee Pollinated Plants for Hay Fever Sufferers List leads onto the |
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Human Prob-lems |
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Blind, |
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Garden Style, which takes into account the Human Problems above |
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Classic Mixed Style |
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Cottage Garden Style |
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. |
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Naturalistic Style |
Formal English Garden |
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Mediterranean Style |
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Meadow and Corn-field |
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. |
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Paving and Gravel inland, |
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Problem Sites within your chosen Garden Style from the above |
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Exce-ssively Hot, Sunny and Dry Site is suitable for Drought Resistant Plants |
Excessively Wet Soil - especially when caused by poor drainage |
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Control of Pests (Aphids, Rabbits, Deer, Mice, Mole, Snails) / Disease by Companion Planting in Garden |
Whether your Heavy Clay or Light Sandy / Chalk Soil is excessively Alkaline (limy) / Acidic or not, then there is an Action Plan for you to do with your soil, which will improve its texture to make its structure into a productive soil instead of it returning to being just sand, chalk, silt or clay. |
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Problems caused by builders:- 1. Lack of soil on top of builders rubble in garden of just built house. |
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In planning your beds for your garden, before the vertical hard-landscaping framework and the vertical speciman planting is inserted into your soft landscaping plan, the following is useful to consider:- |
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Reasons for stopping infilling of Sense of Fragrance section on 28/07/2016 at end of Sense of Fragrance from Stephen Lacey Page. From September 2017 will be creating the following new pages on Sense of Fragrance using Scented Flora of the World by Roy Genders. |
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After you have selected your vertical hard-landscaping framework and the vertical speciman plants for each bed or border, you will need to infill with plants taking the following into account:- |
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Sense of Fragrance from Roy Genders Flower Perfume Group:- |
Flower Perfume Group:- |
Flower Perfume Group:- |
Leaf Perfume Group:- |
Scent of Wood, Bark and Roots Group:-
Scent of Fungi Group:- |
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Sense of Sight |
Emotion of |
Emotion of |
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. |
Emotion of |
Emotion of Intellectual versus Emotional |
Sense of Touch |
Sense of Taste |
Sense of Sound |
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STAGE 2 INFILL PLANT INDEX GALLERIES 1, 2, 3 for |
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STAGE 3a ALL , 3 AND 4 PLANTS INDEX GALLERIES with pages of content (o) |
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Plant Type |
ABC |
DEF |
GHI |
JKL |
MNO |
PQR |
STU |
VWX |
YZ |
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Alpine in Evergreen Perennial, |
1 (o) |
1 (o) |
1 (o) |
1 (o) |
1 (o) |
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Annual/ Biennial |
1 (o) |
1 (o) |
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Bedding, 25 |
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Bulb, 746 with Use, Flower Colour/Shape of |
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Climber 71 Clematis, 58 other Climbers with Use, Flower Colour and Shape |
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1 (o) |
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Deciduous Shrub 43 with Use and Flower Colour |
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1 (o) |
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Evergreen Perennial 104 with Use, Flower Colour, Flower Shape and Number of Petals |
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Evergreen Shrub 46, Semi-Evergreen Shrub and Heather 74 with Use and Flower Colour |
1 (o) |
1 (o) |
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1 (o) |
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Fern with 706 ferns |
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1 (o) |
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Herbaceous Perennial 91, |
1 (o) |
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Rose with 720 roses within Flower Colour, Flower Shape, Rose Petal Count and Rose Use |
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Sub-Shrub |
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Wildflower 1918 with |
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Finally, you might be advised to check that the adjacent plants to the one you have chosen for that position in a flower bed are suitable; by checking the entry in Companion Planting - like clicking A page for checking Abies - and Pest Control page if you have a pest to control in this part of the flower bed. |
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STAGE 1 GARDEN STYLE INDEX GALLERY |
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STAGE 2 INFILL PLANT INDEX GALLERIES 1, 2, 3 Reference books for these galleries in Table on left |
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STAGE 3a ALL PLANTS INDEX GALLERY |
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STAGE 4C CULTIVATION, POSITION, USE GALLERY |
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Since 2006, I have requested photos etc from the Mail-Order Nurseries in the UK and later from the rest of the World. Few nurseries have responded.
with the aid of further information from other books, magazines and cross-checking on the internet. |
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