Ivydene Gardens Stage 2 - Infill Plants Index Gallery: |
Ivydene Gardens Stage 2 - Infill Plants Index Gallery: |
||||||||
Botanical Plant Name with link to |
Flower Colour Sun Aspect of Full Sun, with link to external website for photo/data |
Flowering Months with link to |
Height with Spacings or Width (W) in inches (cms) 1 inch = |
Foliage Colour followed by with link to Australia or New Zealand mail-order supplier
with data for rows in |
Plant Type is:-
followed by:-
with links to |
Comments |
Adjacent Planting |
Plant Associations It is sad to reflect that in England so few gardens open to the public label their plants or label them so that the label is visible when that plant is in flower, so that visitors can identify; and then later locate and purchase that plant. Few mail-order nurseries provide the detail as shown in my rose or heather galleries. If you want to sell a product, it is best to display it. When I sold my Transit van, I removed its signage, cleaned it and took photos of the inside and outside before putting them onto an advert in Autotrader amongst more than 2000 other Transit vans - it was sold in 20 minutes. If mail-order nurseries could put photos to the same complexity from start of the year to its end with the different foliage colours and stages of flowering on Wikimedia Commons, then the world could view the plant before buying it, and idiots like me would have valid material to work with. I have been in the trade (until ill health forced my Sole Trader retirement in 2013) working in designing, constructing and maintaining private gardens for decades and since 2005 when this site was started, I have asked any nursery in the world to supply photos. R.V. Roger in Yorkshire allowed me to use his photos from his website in 2007 and when I got a camera to spend 5 days in July 2014 at my expense taking photos of his roses growing in his nursery field, whilst his staff was propagating them. I gave him a copy of those photos. |
Hardy Water Lilies A guide to selection according to colour, planting depth and surface coverage (from Ponds and Water Gardens by Bill Heritage - Revised Second Edition - Reprinted 1988 - ISBN 0 7137 1861 7):- |
||||||||
|
|
Planting Depth |
Red Flower |
Pink Flower |
White Flower |
Yellow and 'Sunset' Flower |
Aproximate Surface Cover Spread |
Approximately Surface Cover Area |
|
|
Group 1 |
16 inches (40 cms) |
0.14 square yard |
||||
|
|
Group 2 |
Ellisiana in Anglo Aquatic Catalogue PDF |
Aurora in Anglo Aquatic Catalogue PDF |
24 inches (60 cms) |
0.35 square yard |
||
|
|
Group 3 |
Hermine in Anglo Aquatic Catalogue PDF |
Comanche in Anglo Aquatic Catalogue PDF, |
36 inches (90 cms) |
0.8 square yard |
||
|
|
Group 4 |
Indiana in Anglo Aquatic Catalogue PDF , |
48 inches (120 cms) |
1.4 square yards |
|||
|
|
Group 5 |
Madame Wilfron Gonnere, |
Moorei in Anglo Aquatic Catalogue PDF , |
60 inches (150 cms) |
2.2 square yards |
||
|
|
Group 6 |
72 inches (180 cms) |
3 square yards |
||||
|
|
Group 7 |
Colossea in Anglo Aquatic Catalogue PDF , |
alba, Gladstoniana in Anglo Aquatic Catalogue PDF , |
96 inches (240 cms) |
5.6 square yards |
||
|
|
N.B. Depth figures refer to water depth over the crown and do not include the depth of the soil layer or container in which the plant is grown. Spread can vary considerably according to the type of soil and planting method, and will be substantially reduced if the crowns are in cramped conditions.
Merebrook Pond Plants and Water Lilies states the following about 'How Many plants should I put in my pond?':- How many water lilies do I need? As blanket weed also likes sun and warmth, it is important to grow enough deep water plants to cover at least a third and up to half of the surface of the pond with leaf by late June/ early July. The best plants for this purpose are water lilies. It is a myth that water lilies can grow well in very deep water. Even the most vigorous of water lilies will struggle in water that is more than 1m deep. Pond plants mostly thrive when they are in full sunlight and where the water warms up quickly. Deep water plants is the term used to describe plants, like water lilies, that grow best when planted into containers that are totally immersed in water, with about 25 to 45cms of water over the top of the soil. Different water lilies grow to different sizes, so always select a water lily suitable for your size of pond.
When mature, the pads (leaves) of
Depending on what sort of effect your wish to achieve with your planting, you can mix different sizes of water lilies in the same pond. You may want to plant three medium water lilies rather than one large water lily, or you may want to plant a small water lily close to the side with medium or large water lilies further from the edge. The choice is yours, but be prepared to fall in love with these spectacular flowering beauties, for one is never enough! |
||||||
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Planting Season |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
The time to plant aquatics is when they are actively growing and that does not happen until warm spring weather has taken winter's chill off the water. It will depend where you live. In Britain some aquatics will be moving and plantable in late April, the majority by Mid-May and a few (Hydrocharis, Sagittarias and pygmy lilies, for example) not until June. May-July is the main season but planting can continue until September. A very cold spring can delay the start by weeks, and there is no point at all in trying to rush things. The season starts when plants are growing, not according to a date on the calendar. In warmer climates the season may well start earlier and continue longer. |
||||||||
Planting Method |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
If maximum plant growth is the aim, there is no doubt about which is the most effective way to grow aquatics. You cover the entire pool floor, and fill any marginal troughs, with 6-8 inches (15-20 cms) of rich soil. This will provide enough nutrients for years of exuberant growth, but time will reveal some drawbacks. The more aggressive reeds and rushes will spread like wildfire, swamping choicer varieties, and any patches of open water will disappear under a blanket of massive lily leaves. If water is visible at all it will be muddied by fish foraging on the bottom, and that is the only way you will know the fish are there. Wading in the pond - and it is occasionally necessary - becomes something of an adventure; and, when the need to sort out the tangle cannot be ignored any longer, removing the mud and the carpet of roots proves a monumental task.
Such unhappy results can be largely avoided by confining plant roots to containers. There they can be given enough soil to grow adequately without going mad. It will have to be replaced more frequently than if the whole floor was covered, but much less soil will be needed each time. Between containers there will be no soil; that limits the scope for rampant spreaders and means wading is easier and less likely to stir things up. In ponds made with liners, incidentally, barefoot wading is strongly recommended. Wearing waders or even plimsolls, it is easy to tread a stone through the liner without knowing you have done it; until the water level starts to drop. Barefoot you will feel the stone and automatically take the pressure off before any damage is done. |
||||||||
Containers |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Large planting areas in large ponds can be formed of 3-course brick walls cemented to the floor. Never use cement blocks for this or any other purpose in the pond unless they have been treated with Silglaze or have been pre-soaked elsewhere for a month. Moveable containers are preferable to fixed ones, but remember that a
|
||||||||
Soil |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
The ideal soil for aquatics, and particularly lilies, is a heavy rich garden or pasture loam. Sandy soil and mud from natural ponds are equally useless. Clay especially blue clay) is acceptable but needs at least a 50% mixture of lighter soil or rotted turf with it (or even peat at a pinch) if roots are to develop well. Except for this purpose, peat has no value in the pond. Leafmould and garden compost will foul the water and must never be used. |
||||||||
Planting Container Sizes Alternative container sizes which will provide the desriable soil volume for single plants, and for three-plant groups, in various lily categories:- |
The use of manure and fertiliser poses problems. If optimum plant growth is the only consideration, use them. Remember, however, that they will enrich the water with nutrients and promote the growth of algae as well as lilies. There is a strong case for their use with tropical lilies which have a lot of growing to do in a short season and need plenty of nourishment to maintain a high level of flower production. Traditionally each plant is reckoned to need a bushel (32 quarts) of soil, though some professional growers consider 0.66 of that to be adequate. The difference, perhaps, is between plain soil and soil with manure and fertiliser. A bushel of good garden loam, especially if mixed with chopped or rotted turf (sod), will do perfectly well. If a richer mixture is created by using 1 part of rotted cow manure to 3 or 4 parts of soil, with the addition of 0.5 of a pound of fine bonemeal (1 pound = 0.453592 Kg), then 3/4's of a bushel will suffice for 1 season's growth. Specialist water lily fertiliser offered by nurseries can be substituted for the bone meal, used at the rate they recommend. Bonemeal, in my view, is of doubtful effectiveness and prone to sour the water as it decomposes. The richer mixture can be used for hardy lilies too if plant growth is the primary interest. Most water gardeners, not wishing to increase the risk of algal bloom, use a heavy loam/turf mixture and get very satisfactory results. |
|||||||
To Accomodate |
|
Alternative Shapes |
||||||
|
|
|
|
or |
||||
Hardy Lilies Group 1 |
1 plant |
5 (12.5) |
6 (15) |
7 (17.5) |
Since waterlilies vary enormously in vigour, it follows that the amount of soil needed to sustain their growth must vary too. The '1 bushel per plant' idea cannot be true for all of them. If a bushel is needed for a vigorous lily, a miniature lily will clearly get by on much less. Or, to look at it another way, a bushel will feed a dwarf lily for much longer than it will a vigorous one. The list of container sizes alongside is an attempt to define acceptable container sizes to provide an adequate volume of soil for lilies in different categories of vigour. For tropical lilies it is enough for 1 season, assuming annual replacement of plants and soil. The volumes allowed for hardy lilies should be adequate for 3 years. None will object if given a larger container, with a longer interval between soil changes. They can be grown in a smaller volume of soil if it is replaced more frequently. |
|||
Hardy Lilies Group 2 |
1 plant |
7 (17.5) |
7 (17.5) |
8 (20) |
||||
Hardy Lilies Group 3 |
1 plant |
9 (22.5 |
8 (20) |
9 (22.5) |
Since a quicker and bolder effect can be achieved, particularly in large ponds, by planting 3 lilies of one variety as a group, container sizes are given for 1 plant and 3-plant groups in each category. Alternative shapes, i.e. square or circular, are given, with 2 alternative depths; the dimesions of any boxes or bowls you have handy can be checked against these to determine their usefulness. Of the 2 alternative shapes given in each case; the shallower is prefered. It so happens that the quarter bushel container is the size of a square plastic container with perforated sides widely offered to British water gardener's as a 'lily basket' For small and medium-sized lilies it is excellent, with a soil change every 3 years. For Groups 4 and 5 lilies, it will do if the soil is changed every other year. Used for Group 6 lilies the soil will need changing annually. Group 7 types are altogether too big for it. Perforated sides, incidentally, have some value in a deep container with a small surface area in improving the exchange of dissolved gases between soil and water. In wide shallow containers, this is achieved by the large surface area of soil in contact with water and perforated sides are unnecessary. |
|||
Hardy Lilies Groups 4 and 5 1/2 Bushel |
1 plant |
9 (22.5 |
12 (30) |
13 (32.5) |
||||
Hardy, |
1 plant |
9 (22.5 |
14 (35) |
16 (40) |
||||
Hardy, |
1 plant |
9 (22.5 |
17 (42.5) |
19 (57.5) |
Aquatic Planting Baskets from Watergarden Paradise Aquatic Nursery in Australia:- Planting baskets specifically designed for aquatic plants to make it easier for you to maintain them in your pond. These great quality planting baskets are manufactured in the UK (by Finofil® company) using polythene plastic, not the imitation brands with products made elsewhere. Finofil® Pond Planting Basket features: - Fine mesh perforation to allow the plants to develop a better root system and reduces oxygen trapped within the planting basket when placing it into ponds. - Plant label holder or basket handle provision. - The Contour "kidney shaped" planting basket with the new link-lock feature. You will be able to link a few pots together to form any kind of curve to blend into the shape of your pond. |
|||
* Figures for container depth allow for a 0.5 inch to 1-inch (1.25-2.5 cms) finishing layer of gravel or small pebbles over the soil. |
||||||||
Planting Tropical Lilies |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Using a heavy loam/turf mixture, a container with internal dimensions 21 inches (52.5 cms) square and 6 inches (15 cms) deep will hold a bushel of soil covered with an inch (2.5 cms) of gravel. A container 18 inches (45 cms) square and 6 inches (15 cms) deep will be big enough if the soil mix includes manure and fertiliser. The 2-foot+24 inch = 60 cms square by 1-foot=12 inches= 30 cms deep container sometimes recommended (volume 3 bushels) is unnecessarily wasteful. Tropical lily roots are planted upright, with the crown clear of soil, preferably straight into a container already in the pond, and not before the water temperature is holding close to 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Centigrade). Tropical leaves are thin and wither quickly if exposed to the sun out of water. The plants will settle faster and bloom sooner if they have only 4 inches (10 cms) of water over the container for the first month. They can then be lowered to 6 (15 cms) or, at the very most, 8 inches (20 cms). One tropicals are planted, any chilling of the water must be avoided at all costs and a major water change is out of the question. That must be completed at least a week before planting time. After planting, topping up to make good evaporation loss must be done slowly on a little-and-often basis. |
||||||||
Planting Hardy Lilies |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
The roots of hardy lilies are either long fleshy rhizomes or roughly pyramidal chunks with a growing point at the apex and a tangle of roots below. Broken or lengthy roots are cut off and any mature leaves removed. They will only die back anyway. If the supplier has aleady done this, leaving only short new leaf shoots, do not be alarmed, they are that is needed. You will probably not have the heart to remove any half-opened flower buds but do not be surprised when come to nothing. Do - if you make a choice in a garden cetre - pick a plant just because it has a flower. Pick a good rootstock; when it has settled in; the flowers will come. Plant the long rhizome type of rootstock almost horizontally, about an inch (2.5 cms) below the soil surface, just tilted to bring the growing tip above the surface. Firm the soil, place a flat stone over the buried root so that there is no risk of it comming adrift, cover the remaining soil surface with gravel (sand is too easily disturbed by fish) and make sure the growing tip is not buried. The chunky rootstock (as in the maiiacea varieties) are planted upright, again ensuring that the growing point is not buried. Submerge the container gently, until 8010 inches (20-25 cms) of water cover it, propping it up if necessary on bricks (but not on cement blocks). After a week or 2, leaves and stems should have developed sufficiently for the container to be finally settled at the depth appropriate to the variety in it. |
||||||||
Planting Oxygenators |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Since the roots of oxygenators are for anchorage rather than feeding; they need to be planted in soil. A rooting medium that will not muddy the water has obvious advantages and they will grow happily in gravel. Anything from pinhead-sized aquarium sand to 1/8-inch (3mm) pea shingle will do very well and it need only be an inch or 2 (2.5-5 cms) deep. A 14-inch by 8-inch (35 x 20 cms) plastic seed tray is ideal for 5 or 6 bunches, and almost any sort of shallow container can be pressed into service for this purpose. When large numbers of oxygenators are required, it becomes inconvenient to have dozens of small containers scattered about the pond; a few large planting areas would be better. The simplest solution I have found so far involves the use of the 4-inch (10 cms) plastic or aluminium strip sold in garden centres for edging lawns. A length of either of these materials, the ends joined with pop rivets to make a circle, it is placed on the pool floor and half filled with gravel. I find that this can be done quite successfully even in filled pond. The plastic strip tries to float, but only needs 3 stones leaned on it to keep it in place until the gravel is put in. These 'containers' cannot be moved or lifted out, of course, but in view of the weight of gravel in them it would hardly be possible anyway:-
Oxygenators are usually supplied as unrooted cuttings, with a twist of lead holding several stems in a bunch. It is optimistic to drop these in and expect them to stay put until roots develop. They barely have negative bouyancy and will just drift till a few bits root and most break up. To root them quickly each bunch needs to be pushed well into the soil or gravel, made firm, and allowed to grow without interference from fish. In large planting areas a speedier method is to lay the bunches flat on the gravel, then stretch small-mesh plastic netting tightly over them, anchoring it with stones. This way I find that growth is slow to start, but once started is rapid and very dense. Ceratophyllum (Hornwort) is the exception that you can 'just drop in'. |
||||||||
Planting Marginals |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
The worst mistake commonly made in planting marginals is to mix varieties in the same pocket or container. This can only mean unequal competition and the most vigorous ultimately chokes the rest. Marginal troughs, as are sometimes incorporated in concrete ponds, should be subdivided with barriers of brick or stone, leaving a clear gap without soil, between each planted section. Each section may have several plants, but they will be of the same variety. Straying roots will find nothing to encourage them and can easily be spotted and dealt with. The same applies to individual containers standing on the marginal shelf of a liner pond. Something 9-12 inches (22.5-30 cms) across and 5 or 6 inches (12.5-15 cms) deep will take 2 or 3 plants of most marginal types, for the sake of quick effect. One container, one variety, means bold clumps with greater ornamental effect. From 2 to 4 inches (5-10 cms) of water over the container will suit most marginals. Fine adjustments to cater for special cases (Iris 'Rose Queen', for example) are easily made by raising the container on a tile or two. |
||||||||
Planting Floating Plants |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Planting floating plants is a contradiction in terms and barely merits a paragraph. Just drop them in. Do not be surprised if Stratiotes or Lemna trisulca fail to float; they will when the mood takes them. |
||||||||
Advice about Planting |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
The best advice that can be given about planting in general is have soil, containers, gravel (and muscular help if large containers will have to be moved) organised in advance, and to complete the job with all possible speed. Plants awaiting attention should be immersed in water unless in moisture-retaining wrappings. Planting should not be done out in the sun. Oxygenators dry out and shrivel up in no time and must not be kept out of the water a moment longer than necessary. Hardy lilies, if not moved into the pond immediately they are planted, must be stood in the shade, covered with wet newspaper, and moved into the pond as soon as all are ready. |
||||||||
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Aquatic - Water Lilies Water Lilies (from Ponds and Water Gardens by Bill Heritage - Revised Second Edition - Reprinted 1988 - ISBN 0 7137 1861 7):- In making a selection of plants, there are 2 things to look for
It is the fact that they possess both these qualities to a very high degree that makes water lilies supremely important. They produce superb flowers over a long season. Their spreading leaves, by cutting off sunlight and shading the water beneath, are the crucial factor in keeping the water clear. This function is more important, even than that of the oxygenating plants which usually get all the credit. |
||||||||
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
STAGE 2 |
STAGE 1 GARDEN STYLE INDEX GALLERY PAGES Links to pages in Table alongside on the left with Garden Design Topic Pages |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Plant Type |
STAGE 2 INFILL PLANT INDEX GALLERIES 1, 2, 3 with its Cultivation Requirements |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Alpines for Rock Garden (See Rock Garden Plant Flowers) |
Alpines and Walls |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Aquatic |
Water-side Plants |
Wildlife Pond Plants |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Annual for ----------------
|
Cut Flowers |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Scent / Fra-grance with Annuals for Cool or Shady Places from 1916 |
Low-allergen Gardens for Hay Fever Sufferers |
Annual Plant Pairing Ideas and Colour Schemes with Annuals |
Medium-Growing Annuals |
Tall-Growing Annuals with White Flowers from 1916 |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Black or Brown Flowers |
Blue to Purple Flowers |
Green Flowers with Annuals and Biennials from 1916 |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Vining Annuals |
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Bedding for |
Bedding for Light Sandy Soil |
Bedding for Acid Soil |
Bedding for Chalky Soil |
Bedding for Clay Soil |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Attract-ive to Wildlife including Bees, Butterflies and Moths |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Bedding Plant Use |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Use in Hanging Baskets |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Flower Simple Shape |
Shape of |
Shape of |
Shape of |
Shape of |
Shape of |
Use in Pots and Troughs |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Flower Elabo-rated Shape |
Shape of |
Shape of |
Shape of |
|
Use in |
Use in |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Shape of |
Shape of |
Shape of |
Shape of |
|
Use in Bedding Out |
Use in |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Biennial for |
Patio Con-tainers with Biennials for Pots in Green-house / Con-servatory |
Bene-ficial to Wildlife with Purple and Blue Flowers from 1916 |
|
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Bulb for |
Indoor Bulbs for Sep-tember |
Bulbs in Window-boxes |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Any Plant Type (some grown in Cool Green-house) Bloom-ing in |
Any Plant Type (some grown in Cool Green-house) Bloom-ing in |
Any Plant Type (some grown in Cool Green-house) Bloom-ing in |
Any Plant Type Blooming in Smallest of Gardens |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Bulbs in Green-house or Stove |
Achi-menes, Alocasias, Amorpho-phalluses, Aris-aemas, Arums, Begonias, Bomar-eas, Calad-iums |
Clivias, |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Hardy Bulbs
|
Amaryllis, Antheri-cum, Antholy-zas, Apios, Arisaema, Arum, Aspho-deline, |
Cyclamen, Dicentra, Dierama, Eranthis, Eremurus, Ery-thrnium, Eucomis |
Fritillaria, Funkia, Gal-anthus, Galtonia, Gladiolus, Hemero-callis |
Hya-cinth, Hya-cinths in Pots, |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
Lilium in Pots, Malvastrum, Merendera, Milla, Narcissus, Narcissi in Pots |
Half-Hardy Bulbs |
Gladioli, Ixias, |
Plant each Bedding Plant with a Ground, Edging or Dot Plant for |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Climber 3 sector Vertical Plant System with
---------- |
1a. |
1b. |
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
2b. |
3a. |
3c. |
Raised |
Plants for Wildlife-Use as well |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Least prot-ruding growth when fan-trained |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Needs Conserv-atory or Green-house |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Climber - Simple Flower Shape |
|
|
|
|
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Climber - Elabo-rated Flower Shape |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
DISCLAIMER: Links to external sites are provided as a courtesy to visitors. Ivydene Horticultural Services are not responsible for the content and/or quality of external web sites linked from this site. |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Scented Flora of the World by Roy Genders - was first published in 1977 and this paperback edition was published on 1 August 1994 ISBN 0 7090 5440 8:- |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
I am using the above book from someone who took 30 years to compile it from notes made of his detailed observations of growing plants in preference to |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
The Propagation of Alpines by Lawrence D. Hills. Published in 1950 by Faber and Faber Limited describes every method of propagation for 2,500 species. Unlike modern books published since 1980, this one states exactly what to do and is precisely what you require if you want to increase your alpines. |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Topic |
|
|
|
STAGE 4C CULTIVATION, POSITION, USE GALLERY
Cultivation Requirements of Plant |
|
Outdoor / Garden Cultivation |
|
Indoor / House Cultivation |
|
Cool Greenhouse (and Alpine House) Cultivation with artificial heating in the Winter |
|
Conservatory Cultivation with heating throughout the year |
|
Stovehouse Cultivation with heating throughout the year for Tropical Plants |
|
|
|
Sun Aspect |
|
|
|
Soil Type |
|
|
|
Soil Moisture |
|
|
|
Position for Plant |
|
Ground Cover 0-24 inches (0-60 cms) |
|
Ground Cover 24-72 inches (60-180 cms) |
|
Ground Cover Over 72 inches (180 cms) |
|
1, 2, |
|
|
|
Use of Plant |
|
|
|
STAGE 4D Plant Foliage |
|
|
|
Flower Shape |
|
Number of Flower Petals |
|
|
|
Flower Shape - Simple |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Flower Shape - Elaborated |
|
|
|
Natural Arrangements |
|
|
|
STAGE 4D |
|
|
|
|
|
Form |
|
|
|
|
|
STAGE 1
Fragrant Plants adds the use of another of your 5 senses in your garden:- |
|
|
|
STAGE 2 Fan-trained Shape From Rhododendrons, boxwood, azaleas, clematis, novelties, bay trees, hardy plants, evergreens : novelties bulbs, cannas novelties, palms, araucarias, ferns, vines, orchids, flowering shrubs, ornamental grasses and trees book, via Wikimedia Commons |
|
Ramblers Scramblers & Twiners by Michael Jefferson-Brown (ISBN 0 - 7153 - 0942 - 0) describes how to choose, plant and nurture over 500 high-performance climbing plants and wall shrubs, so that more can be made of your garden if you think not just laterally on the ground but use the vertical support structures including the house as well. The Gardener's Illustrated Encyclopedia of Climbers & Wall Shrubs - A Guide to more than 2000 varieties including Roses, Clematis and Fruit Trees by Brian Davis. (ISBN 0-670-82929-3) provides the lists for 'Choosing the right Shrub or Climber' together with Average Height and Spread after 5 years, 10 years and 20 years. |
|
|
|
STAGE 2
|
|
|
|
STAGE 4D Trees and Shrubs suitable for Clay Soils (neutral to slightly acid) Trees and Shrubs suitable for Dry Acid Soils Trees and Shrubs suitable for Shallow Soil over Chalk Trees and Shrubs tolerant of both extreme Acidity and Alkalinity Trees and Shrubs suitable for Damp Sites Trees and Shrubs suitable for Industrial Areas Trees and Shrubs suitable for Cold Exposed Areas Trees and Shrubs suitable for Seaside Areas Shrubs suitable for Heavy Shade Shrubs and Climbers suitable for NORTH- and EAST-facing Walls Shrubs suitable for Ground Cover Trees and Shrubs of Upright or Fastigiate Habit Trees and Shrubs with Ornamental Bark or Twigs Trees and Shrubs with Bold Foliage Trees and Shrubs for Autumn Colour Trees and Shrubs with Red or Purple Foliage Trees and Shrubs with Golden or Yellow Foliage Trees and Shrubs with Grey or Silver Foliage Trees and Shrubs with Variegated Foliage Trees and Shrubs bearing Ornamental Fruit Trees and Shrubs with Fragrant or Scented Flowers Trees and Shrubs with Aromatic Foliage Flowering Trees and Shrubs for Every Month:- |
|
.jpg?uselang=en-gb){kind=link}
Copied from |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Soil contains living material that requires the right structure and organic material to provide food for plants. If the structure of the soil tends towards a loam of about 20-50% sand, silt and 20 - 40% clay with a pH between 6 and 7.5, then this suitable for a high proportion of plants. Otherwise an application of a mulch of sand and horticultural grit for clay, or clay and horticultural grit for sand, is required to improve plant growth. If an annual mulch of organic material (Spent Mushroom Compost, Cow Manure, Horse Manure does contain weed seeds and should only be used under hedges or ground-covering trees/shrubs) is applied of 100mm (4”) thickness to the soil, then the living material in the soil can continue their role of feeding the plants. This mulch will stop the ground drying out due to wind or sun having direct access to the ground surface. The annual loss of organic matter from soils in cool humid climates is about 6lbs per square metre. If there is also a drip-feed irrigation system under the mulch (which is used for 4 continuous hours a week - when there is no rain that week from April to September), then the living material can get their food delivered in solution or suspension. If the prunings from your garden are shredded (or reduced to 4” lengths) and then applied as a mulch to your flower beds or hedges, followed by 0.5” depth of grass mowings on top; this will also provide a start for improvement of your soil. The 0.5" layer can be applied again after a fortnight; when the aerobic composting stage (the aerobic composting creates heat and 0.5" - 1 cm - thickness does not become too hot to harm the plants next to it) has been completed during the summer. Anaerobic (without using air) composting then completes the process. Application of Seaweed Meal for Trace Elements and other chemicals required to replenish what has been used by the plants in the previous year for application in Spring are detailed in the How are Chemicals stored and released from Soil? page.
You normally eat and drink at least 3 times every day to keep you growing, healthy and active; plants also require to eat and drink every day. Above 5 degrees Celcius plants tend to grow above ground and below 5 degrees Celcius they tend to grow their roots underground. 2 minor points to remember with their result-
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Soils and their Treatment
Soil Improvement |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Copied from |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
and • Watering Schedule - Far and away the best course of action against slugs in your garden is a simple adjustment in the watering schedule. Slugs are most active at night and are most efficient in damp conditions. Avoid watering your garden in the evening if you have a slug problem. Water in the morning - the surface soil will be dry by evening. Studies show this can reduce slug damage by 80%.
• Seaweed - If you have access to seaweed, it's well worth the effort to gather. Seaweed is not only a good soil amendment for the garden, it's a natural repellent for slugs. Mulch with seaweed around the base of plants or perimeter of bed. Pile it on 3" to 4" thick - when it dries it will shrink to just an inch or so deep. Seaweed is salty and slugs avoid salt. Push the seaweed away from plant stems so it's not in direct contact. During hot weather, seaweed will dry and become very rough which also deters the slugs.
• Copper - Small strips of copper can be placed around flower pots or raised beds as obstructions for slugs to crawl over. Cut 2" strips of thin copper and wrap around the lower part of flower pots, like a ribbon. Or set the strips in the soil on edge, making a "fence" for the slugs to climb. Check to make sure no vegetation hangs over the copper which might provide a 'bridge' for the slugs. Copper barriers also work well around wood barrels used as planters.
• Diatomaceous Earth - Diatomaceous earth (Also known as "Insect Dust") is the sharp, jagged skeletal remains of microscopic creatures. It lacerates soft-bodied pests, causing them to dehydrate. A powdery granular material, it can be sprinkled around garden beds or individual plants, and can be mixed with water to make a foliar spray.
• Electronic "slug fence" - An electronic slug fence is a non-toxic, safe method for keeping slugs out of garden or flower beds. The Slugs Away fence is a 24-foot long, 5" ribbon-like barrier that runs off a 9 volt battery. When a slug or snail comes in contact with the fence, it receives a mild static sensation that is undetectable to animals and humans. This does not kill the slug, it cause it to look elsewhere for forage. The battery will power the fence for about 8 months before needing to be replaced. Extension kits are availabe for increased coverage. The electronic fence will repel slugs and snails, but is harmless to people and pets.
• Lava Rock - Like diatomaceous earth, the abrasive surface of lava rock will be avoided by slugs. Lava rock can be used as a barrier around plantings, but should be left mostly above soil level, otherwise dirt or vegetation soon forms a bridge for slugs to cross.
• Salt - If all else fails, go out at night with the salt shaker and a flashlight. Look at the plants which have been getting the most damage and inspect the leaves, including the undersides. Sprinkle a bit of salt on the slug and it will kill it quickly. Not particularly pleasant, but use as a last resort. (Note: some sources caution the use of salt, as it adds a toxic element to the soil. This has not been our experience, especially as very little salt is used.)
• Beer - Slugs are attracted to beer. Set a small amount of beer in a shallow wide jar buried in the soil up to its neck. Slugs will crawl in and drown. Take the jar lid and prop it up with a small stick so rain won't dilute the beer. Leave space for slugs to enter the trap.
• Overturned Flowerpots, Grapefruit Halves, Board on Ground - Overturned flowerpots, with a stone placed under the rim to tilt it up a bit, will attract slugs. Leave overnight, and you'll find the slugs inside in the morning. Grapefruit halves work the same way, with the added advantage of the scent of the fruit as bait.
• Garlic-based slug repellents
Laboratory tests at the University of Newcastle-Upon-Tyne (UK) revealed that a highly refined garlic product (ECOguard produced by ECOspray Ltd, a British company that makes organic pesticides) was an effective slug killer. Look for garlic-based slug deterrents which will be emerging under various brand names, as well as ECOguard.
• Coffee grounds; new caffeine-based slug/snail poisons - Coffee grounds scattered on top of the soil will deter slugs. The horticultural side effects of using strong grounds such as espresso on the garden, however, are less certain. When using coffee grounds, moderation is advised. |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
UKButterflies Larval Foodplants website page lists the larval foodplants used by British butterflies. The name of each foodplant links to a Google search. An indication of whether the foodplant is a primary or secondary food source is also given. Please note that the Butterfly you see for only a short time has grown up on plants as an egg, caterpillar and chrysalis for up to 11 months, before becoming a butterfly. If the plants that they live on during that time are removed, or sprayed with herbicide, then you will not see the butterfly. |
||||
Plants used by the Butterflies follow the Plants used by the Egg, Caterpillar and Chrysalis as stated in |
||||
Plant Name |
Butterfly Name |
Egg/ Caterpillar/ Chrysalis/ Butterfly |
Plant Usage |
Plant Usage Months |
Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
10 days in May-June |
||
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
||
Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
- |
||
Egg, |
1 egg at base of plant. |
Late August-April |
||
Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
- |
||
Egg, |
1 egg laid on underside of leaflets or bracts. |
7 days in June. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg laid on underside of leaflets or bracts. |
7 days in June. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg laid under the leaf or on top of the flower. |
7 days in August. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
10 days in May-June. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
2 weeks |
||
Cabbages - Large White eats all cruciferous plants, such as cabbages, mustard, turnips, radishes, cresses, nasturtiums, wild mignonette and dyer's weed |
Egg,
|
40-100 eggs on both surfaces of leaf. |
May-June and August-Early September. 4.5-17 days. |
|
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of leaf. |
May-June and August. 7 days. |
||
Cabbages:- |
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of leaf. |
July or August; hatches in 3 days. |
|
Cabbages:- |
Egg, |
1 egg laid in the tight buds and flowers. |
May-June 7 days. |
|
Cherry with |
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
|
Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
- |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
10 days in May-June. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
6 days in May-June. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
|
||
|
(Common CowWheat, Field CowWheat) |
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 16 days in June. |
|
Currants |
Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
|
|
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 20 days in July. |
||
Dog Violet with |
Egg, |
1 egg on oak or pine tree trunk |
15 days in July. |
|
Dog Violet with |
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf or stem. |
Hatches after 15 days in May-June. |
|
Dog Violet with |
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf or stem. |
Hatches after 10 days in May-June. |
|
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
||
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
||
False Brome is a grass (Wood Brome, Wood False-brome and Slender False-brome) |
Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
... |
|
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 20 days in July. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg laid on underside of leaflets or bracts. |
7 days in June. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf or stem. |
Hatches after 10 days in May-June. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg laid under the leaf or on top of the flower. |
7 days in August. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. 5 or 6 eggs may be deposited by separate females on one leaf. |
14 days in July-August. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg laid in the tight buds and flowers. |
May-June 7 days. |
||
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 20 days in July. |
||
Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
|
||
Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
1 then |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg at base of plant. |
Late August-April. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
10 days in May-June. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
2 weeks |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
6 days in May-June. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of leaf. |
May-June and August. 7 days. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. 5 or 6 eggs may be deposited by separate females on one leaf. |
14 days in July-August. |
||
Narrow-leaved Plantain (Ribwort Plantain) |
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 16 days in June. |
|
Narrow-leaved Plantain (Ribwort Plantain) |
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 16 days in June. |
|
Nasturtium from Gardens |
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of leaf. |
May-June and August. 7 days. |
|
Egg, |
1 egg on tree trunk |
15 days in July. |
||
Mountain pansy, |
Egg, Chrysalis |
1 egg laid under the leaf or on top of the flower. |
7 days in August. 3 weeks in September |
|
Egg, |
1 egg on tree trunk. |
15 days in July. |
||
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 20 days in July. |
||
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
||
Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
- |
||
Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
|
||
Egg, |
1 egg laid under the leaf or on top of the flower. |
7 days in August. |
||
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
||
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 16 days in June. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
||
Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
|
||
Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
|
||
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
2 weeks |
||
Trefoils 1, 2, 3 |
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
6 days in May-June. |
|
Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
- |
||
Egg, |
1 egg laid on underside of leaflets or bracts. |
7 days in June. |
||
Violets:- |
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of leaf or on stalk. |
July-August for 17 days. |
|
Violets:- |
Egg, |
1 egg on stem or stalk near plant base. |
July to hatch in 8 months in March. |
|
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
2 weeks. |
||
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. 5 or 6 eggs may be deposited by separate females on one leaf. |
14 days in July-August. |
||
Willow |
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
|
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 20 days in July. |
||
Plants used by the Butterflies |
||||
Plant Name |
Butterfly Name |
Egg/ Caterpillar/ Chrysalis/ Butterfly |
Plant Usage |
Plant Usage Months |
Asters |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
|
|
Runner and Broad Beans in fields and gardens |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-June or July-September. |
|
Aubretia in gardens |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June or August till killed by frost and damp in September-November |
|
Butterfly |
Eats sap exuding from trunk. |
April-Mid June and Mid July-Early September for second generation. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
20 days. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June |
||
Holly Blue |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-Mid June and Mid July-Early September for second generation. |
|
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October. |
||
Buddleias |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October. |
|
Wood White |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June. |
|
Cabbage and cabbages in fields |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-June or July-September. |
|
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
July-October |
||
Adonis Blue |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
1 Month during Mid-May to Mid-June or during August-September |
|
Pale Clouded Yellow |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June or August till killed by frost and damp in September-November |
|
Cow-wheat |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June-July |
|
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-Mid June and Mid July-Early September for second generation. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
3 weeks between May and September |
||
Germander Speedwell (Veronica chamaedrys - Birdseye Speedwell) |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June-July |
|
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
30 days in May-June. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-September |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
May-June for 18 days. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
1 Month. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October. |
||
Painted Lady |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
July-October. |
|
Marigolds in gardens |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June or August till killed by frost and damp in September-November |
|
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
1 Month during Mid-May to Mid-June or during August-September. |
||
Michaelmas Daisies |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October |
|
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-June or July-September. |
||
Narrow-leaved Plantain (Ribwort Plantain) |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June-July |
|
Nasturtiums in gardens |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-June or July-September |
|
Butterfly |
Eats sap exuding from trunk. |
April-Mid June and Mid July-Early September for second generation. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
July-October. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
July-May |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
7 weeks in July-August. |
||
Comma |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October. |
|
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
3 weeks between May and September |
||
Trefoils 1, 2, 3 |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
1 Month during Mid-May to Mid-June or during August-September |
|
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
20 days in August. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June.
|
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June-July |
||
Apple/Pear/Cherry/Plum Fruit Tree Blossom in Spring |
Butterfly |
Eats Nectar |
April-May |
|
Rotten Fruit |
Butterfly |
Drinks juice |
July-September |
|
Tree sap and damaged ripe fruit, which are high in sugar |
Butterfly |
Hibernates inside hollow trees or outhouses until March. Eats sap or fruit juice until April. |
10 months in June-April |
|
Wild Flowers |
Large Skipper |
Butterfly |
Eats Nectar |
June-August |
Links to the other Butterflies:- Black Hairstreak |
Topic - Wildlife on Plant Photo Gallery. Some UK native butterflies eat material from UK Native Wildflowers and live on them as eggs, caterpillars (Large Skipper eats False Brome grass - Brachypodium sylvaticum - for 11 months from July to May as a Caterpillar before becoming a Chrysalis within 3 weeks in May) chrysalis or butterflies ALL YEAR ROUND. |
Wild Flower Family Page (the families within "The Pocket Guide to Wild Flowers" by David McClintock & R.S.R. Fitter, Published in 1956 They are not in Common Name alphabetical order and neither are the common names of the plants detailed within each family. The information in the above book is back-referenced to the respective page in "Flora of the British Isles" by A.R. Clapham of University of Sheffield, |
||
When you look at the life history graphs of each of the 68 butterflies of Britain, you will see that they use plants throughout all 12 months - the information of what plant is used by the egg, caterpillar, chrysalis or butterfly is also given in the above first column.
THE LIFE AND DEATH OF A FLAILED CORNISH HEDGE - This details that life and death from July 1972 to 2019, with the following result:- End note, June 2008. I hear spring vetch has been officially recorded somewhere in West Cornwall and confirmed as a presence in the county, so perhaps I can be permitted to have seen it pre-1972 in the survey mile. I wonder where they found it? It's gone from hedges where it used to be, along with other scarcities and so-called scarcities that used to flourish in so many hedges unrecorded, before the flail arrived. I have given careful thought to including mention of some of the plants and butterflies. So little seems to be known of the species resident in Cornish hedges pre-flail that I realise some references may invite scepticism. I am a sceptic myself, so sympathise with the reaction; but I have concluded that, with a view to re-establishing vulnerable species, it needs to be known that they can with the right management safely and perpetually thrive in ordinary Cornish hedges. In future this knowledge could solve the increasingly difficult question of sufficient and suitable sites for sustainable wild flower and butterfly conservation - as long as it is a future in which the hedge-flail does not figure.
CHECK-LIST OF TYPES OF CORNISH HEDGE FLORA by Sarah Carter of Cornish Hedges Library:-
Titles of papers available on www.cornishhedges.co.uk:-
THE GUILD OF CORNISH HEDGERS is the non-profit-making organisation founded in 2002 to support the concern among traditional hedgers about poor standards of workmanship in Cornish hedging today. The Guild has raised public awareness of Cornwall's unique heritage of hedges and promoted free access to the Cornish Hedges Library, the only existing source of full and reliable written knowledge on Cornish hedges." |
||||
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Recommended Plants for Wildlife in different situations
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
From the Ivydene Gardens Box to Crowberry Wild Flower Families Gallery: |
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
The Bumblebee Pages website is divided into five major areas:
FORCED INDOOR BULBS in Window Box Gardens. |
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Theme |
Plants |
Comments |
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Thyme |
Thymus praecox, wild thyme Thymus pulegioides Thymus leucotrichus Thymus citriodorus |
Thymes make a very fragrant, easy to care for windowbox, and an excellent choice for windy sites. The flower colour will be pinky/purple, and you can eat the leaves if your air is not too polluted. Try to get one variegated thyme to add a little colour when there are no flowers. |
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Herb |
Sage, mint, chives, thyme, rosemary |
Get the plants from the herb section of the supermarket, so you can eat the leaves. Do not include basil as it need greater fertility than the others. Pot the rosemary up separately if it grows too large. |
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Mints |
Mentha longifolia, horse mint Mentha spicata, spear mint Mentha pulgium, pennyroyal Mentha piperita, peppermint Mentha suaveolens, apple mint |
Mints are fairly fast growers, so you could start this box with seed. They are thugs, though, and will very soon be fighting for space. So you will either have to thin and cut back or else you will end up with one species - the strongest. The very best mint tea I ever had was in Marrakesh. A glass full of fresh mint was placed in front of me, and boiling water was poured into it. Then I was given a cube of sugar to hold between my teeth while I sipped the tea. Plant this box and you can have mint tea for months. |
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Heather |
Too many to list See Heather Shrub gallery |
For year-round colour try to plant varieties that flower at different times of year. Heather requires acid soils, so fertilise with an ericaceous fertilser, and plant in ericaceous compost. Cut back after flowering and remove the cuttings. It is best to buy plants as heather is slow growing. |
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Blue |
Ajuga reptans, bugle Endymion non-scriptus, bluebell Myosotis spp., forget-me-not Pentaglottis sempervirens, alkanet |
This will give you flowers from March till July. The bluebells should be bought as bulbs, as seed will take a few years to flower. The others can be started from seed. |
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Yellow |
Anthyllis vulneraria, kidney vetch Geum urbanum, wood avens Lathryus pratensis, meadow vetchling Linaria vulgaris, toadflax Lotus corniculatus, birdsfoot trefoil Primula vulgaris, primrose Ranunculus acris, meadow buttercup Ranunculus ficaria, lesser celandine |
These will give you flowers from May to October, and if you include the primrose, from February. Try to include a vetch as they can climb or trail so occupy the space that other plants can't. All can be grown from seed. |
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
White |
Trifolium repens, white clover Bellis perennis, daisy Digitalis purpurea alba, white foxglove Alyssum maritimum Redsea odorata, mignonette |
All can be grown from seed. The clover and daisy will have to be cut back as they will take over. The clover roots add nitrogen to the soil. The mignonette flower doesn't look very special, but the fragrance is wonderful, and the alyssum smells of honey. |
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Pink |
Lychnis flos-cucli, ragged robin Scabiosa columbaria, small scabious Symphytum officinale, comfrey |
The comfrey will try to take over. Its leaves make an excellent fertiliser, and are very good on the compost heap, though windowbox gardeners rarely have one. |
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Fragrant |
Lonicera spp., honeysuckle Alyssum maritimum Redsea odorata, mignonette Lathyrus odoratus, sweet pea |
The sweet pea will need twine or something to climb up, so is suitable if you have sliding windows or window that open inwards. You will be rewarded by a fragrant curtain every time you open your window. |
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Spring bulbs and late wildflowers |
Galanthus nivalis, snowdrop Narcissus pseudonarcissus, narcissius Crocus purpureus, crocus Cyclamen spp. |
The idea of this box is to maximize your space. The bulbs (cyclamen has a corm) will flower and do their stuff early in the year. After flowering cut the heads off as you don't want them making seed, but leave the leaves as they fatten up the bulbs to store energy for next year. The foliage of the wildflowers will hide the bulb leaves to some extent. Then the wildflowers take over and flower till autumn |
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Aster spp., Michaelmas daisy Linaria vulgaris, toadflax Lonicera spp., honeysuckle Succisa pratensis, devil's bit scabious Mentha pulgium, pennyroyal |
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Bee Garden in Europe or North America |
|
|
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Plants for moths (including larval food plants and adult nectar sources) from Gardens for Wildlife - Practical advice on how to attract wildlife to your garden by Martin Walters as an Aura Garden Guide. Published in 2007 - ISBN 978 1905765041:- |
Marjoram - Origanum officinale |
"On average, 2 gardeners a year die in the UK as a result of poisonous plants. Those discussed in this blog illustrate a range of concerns that should be foremost in the designer’s mind." from Pages on poisonous plants in this website:- |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Wildlife-friendly Show Gardens
Many of our gardens at Natural Surroundings demonstrate what you can do at home to encourage wildlife in your garden:-
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Ivydene Gardens Water Fern to Yew Wild Flower Families Gallery: |
Only Wildflowers detailed in the following Wildflower Colour Pages |
|
|||||||||||||||
Jan |
Feb |
Mar |
Apr |
May |
Jun |
Jul |
Aug |
Sep |
Oct |
Nov |
Dec |
||||||
1 |
Blue |
||||||||||||||||
1 |
|||||||||||||||||
1 |
Cream |
||||||||||||||||
1 |
|||||||||||||||||
1 |
|||||||||||||||||
1 |
|||||||||||||||||
1 |
|||||||||||||||||
1 |
|||||||||||||||||
1 |
|||||||||||||||||
1 |
|||||||||||||||||
1 |
White A-D |
||||||||||||||||
1 Yellow |
|||||||||||||||||
1 |
|||||||||||||||||
1 |
|||||||||||||||||
1 |
|||||||||||||||||
1 |
Flowering plants of |
||||||||||||||||
1 |
Flowering plants of |
||||||||||||||||
The following table shows the linkages for the information about the plants
|
|||||||||||||
STAGE 1 GARDEN STYLE INDEX GALLERY |
|||||||||||||
Private Garden Design:- |
|||||||||||||
|
|
<---- |
Yes |
|
No |
Cannot be bothered. |
|||||||
|
|
At Home with Gard-ening Area |
|
|
Balcony Garden or Roof Garden |
|
Grow flowers for flower arranging and vegetables on Balcony Garden or Roof Garden |
Pan Plant Back-grou-nd Colour |
STAGE 3b |
||||
| |
|
| |
Outside Garden |
Pan, Trough and Window-Box Odds and Sods |
|||||||||
|
| |
Kinds of Pan Plants that may be split up and tucked in Corners and Crevices |
| |
||||||||||
| |
|||||||||||||
| |
|||||||||||||
| |
|||||||||||||
Trough and Window-box plants 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 |
Pan Plant |
| |
|||||||||||
You need to know the following:- |
|||||||||||||
A) Bee Pollinated Plants for Hay Fever Sufferers List leads onto the |
|
Human Prob-lems |
|
Blind, |
|
||||||||
|
|
|
|
Garden Style, which takes into account the Human Problems above |
|
||||||||
|
Classic Mixed Style |
|
Cottage Garden Style |
|
. |
|
Naturalistic Style |
Formal English Garden |
|||||
|
Mediterranean Style |
|
Meadow and Corn-field |
|
. |
|
Paving and Gravel inland, |
||||||
|
|
|
|
Problem Sites within your chosen Garden Style from the above |
|
||||||||
|
|
|
|
|
. |
|
Exce-ssively Hot, Sunny and Dry Site is suitable for Drought Resistant Plants |
Excessively Wet Soil - especially when caused by poor drainage |
|||||
Control of Pests (Aphids, Rabbits, Deer, Mice, Mole, Snails) / Disease by Companion Planting in Garden |
Whether your Heavy Clay or Light Sandy / Chalk Soil is excessively Alkaline (limy) / Acidic or not, then there is an Action Plan for you to do with your soil, which will improve its texture to make its structure into a productive soil instead of it returning to being just sand, chalk, silt or clay. |
|
. |
|
Problems caused by builders:- 1. Lack of soil on top of builders rubble in garden of just built house. |
||||||||
In planning your beds for your garden, before the vertical hard-landscaping framework and the vertical speciman planting is inserted into your soft landscaping plan, the following is useful to consider:- |
|||||||||||||
Reasons for stopping infilling of Sense of Fragrance section on 28/07/2016 at end of Sense of Fragrance from Stephen Lacey Page. From September 2017 will be creating the following new pages on Sense of Fragrance using Scented Flora of the World by Roy Genders. |
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
||||
After you have selected your vertical hard-landscaping framework and the vertical speciman plants for each bed or border, you will need to infill with plants taking the following into account:- |
|
|
|
||||||||||
Sense of Fragrance from Roy Genders Flower Perfume Group:- |
Flower Perfume Group:- |
Flower Perfume Group:- |
Leaf Perfume Group:- |
Scent of Wood, Bark and Roots Group:-
Scent of Fungi Group:- |
|||||||||
Sense of Sight |
Emotion of |
Emotion of |
|
. |
Emotion of |
Emotion of Intellectual versus Emotional |
Sense of Touch |
Sense of Taste |
Sense of Sound |
||||
|
|
STAGE 2 INFILL PLANT INDEX GALLERIES 1, 2, 3 for |
|
|
|||||||||
|
|||||||||||||
STAGE 3a ALL , 3 AND 4 PLANTS INDEX GALLERIES with pages of content (o) |
|||||||||||||
Plant Type |
ABC |
DEF |
GHI |
JKL |
MNO |
PQR |
STU |
VWX |
YZ |
||||
Alpine in Evergreen Perennial, |
1 (o) |
1 (o) |
1 (o) |
1 (o) |
1 (o) |
||||||||
Annual/ Biennial |
1 (o) |
1 (o) |
|||||||||||
Bedding, 25 |
|||||||||||||
Bulb, 746 with Use, Flower Colour/Shape of |
|||||||||||||
Climber 71 Clematis, 58 other Climbers with Use, Flower Colour and Shape |
|||||||||||||
1 (o) |
|||||||||||||
Deciduous Shrub 43 with Use and Flower Colour |
|||||||||||||
1 (o) |
|||||||||||||
Evergreen Perennial 104 with Use, Flower Colour, Flower Shape and Number of Petals |
|||||||||||||
Evergreen Shrub 46, Semi-Evergreen Shrub and Heather 74 with Use and Flower Colour |
1 (o) |
1 (o) |
|||||||||||
1 (o) |
|||||||||||||
Fern with 706 ferns |
|||||||||||||
1 (o) |
|||||||||||||
Herbaceous Perennial 91, |
1 (o) |
||||||||||||
Rose with 720 roses within Flower Colour, Flower Shape, Rose Petal Count and Rose Use |
|||||||||||||
Sub-Shrub |
|||||||||||||
Wildflower 1918 with |
|||||||||||||
Finally, you might be advised to check that the adjacent plants to the one you have chosen for that position in a flower bed are suitable; by checking the entry in Companion Planting - like clicking A page for checking Abies - and Pest Control page if you have a pest to control in this part of the flower bed. |
|||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||
STAGE 1 GARDEN STYLE INDEX GALLERY |
|||||||||||||
STAGE 2 INFILL PLANT INDEX GALLERIES 1, 2, 3 Reference books for these galleries in Table on left |
|||||||||||||
STAGE 3a ALL PLANTS INDEX GALLERY |
|||||||||||||
STAGE 4C CULTIVATION, POSITION, USE GALLERY |
|||||||||||||
Since 2006, I have requested photos etc from the Mail-Order Nurseries in the UK and later from the rest of the World. Few nurseries have responded.
with the aid of further information from other books, magazines and cross-checking on the internet. |
|||||||||||||