Ivydene Gardens Stage 2 - Infill Plants Index Gallery: |
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Botanical Plant Name with link to |
Flower Colour Sun Aspect of Full Sun, with link to external website for photo/data |
Flowering Months with link to |
Height with Spacings or Width (W) in inches (cms) 1 inch = |
Foliage Colour followed by with link to Australia or New Zealand mail-order supplier
with data for rows in |
Plant Type is:-
followed by:-
with links to |
Comments |
A plant of first-class merit, suggested as 'First Choices' Adjacent Planting |
Plant Associations It is sad to reflect that in England so few gardens open to the public label their plants or label them so that the label is visible when that plant is in flower, so that visitors can identify; and then later locate and purchase that plant. Few mail-order nurseries provide the detail as shown in my rose or heather galleries. If you want to sell a product, it is best to display it. When I sold my Transit van, I removed its signage, cleaned it and took photos of the inside and outside before putting them onto an advert in Autotrader amongst more than 2000 other Transit vans - it was sold in 20 minutes. If mail-order nurseries could put photos to the same complexity from start of the year to its end with the different foliage colours and stages of flowering on Wikimedia Commons, then the world could view the plant before buying it, and idiots like me would have valid material to work with. I have been in the trade (until ill health forced my Sole Trader retirement in 2013) working in designing, constructing and maintaining private gardens for decades and since 2005 when this site was started, I have asked any nursery in the world to supply photos. R.V. Roger in Yorkshire allowed me to use his photos from his website in 2007 and when I got a camera to spend 5 days in July 2014 at my expense taking photos of his roses growing in his nursery field, whilst his staff was propagating them. I gave him a copy of those photos. |
A choice of Dwarf Trees and Conifer True alpine regions are beyond the tree line, and any specimens seen in nature are usually isolated, dwarfed by wind and weather and often distorted. This does not mean that it is wrong to introduce trees and conifers into the garden conception of the rock garden, but it does indicate that their use should be rather sparing, and preferably lower down than on the sky-line. Of true dwarfs, there are few among the trees, and only 2 kinds are suggested here. Some of the loveliest trees for the rock garden can be drawn from the dwarf Japanese Maples, Acer palmatum vars., notable for their finely shaped and coloured foliage. Care is needed, however, for, although they are slow-growing, some of them can attain to 15-20 feet = 180-240 inches = 450-600 cms in time, and such specimens can spoil the rock garden with their spreading roots and overhanging shade. |
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Acer palmatum dissectum (Japanese Maple) Supplier in UK |
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Dwarf Tree For the smaller rock garden, it is as well to concentrate on the dissectum forms, which make mushroom-shaped small trees and will take many years to grow beyond 48 inches (120 cms). In the larger rock garden, it is possible to introduce the septemlobum forms, of which osakazubi is probably the finest for colour. These dwarf maples, while normally hardy, do need positions well sheltered from the colder drying north and east winds, especially when planted in the east and north of Britain. |
MrMaple is a member of the Maple Society and |
Acer palmatum 'Dissectum Garnet' Français : Érable palmé (cultivar) à l'arboretum de la Vallée-aux-Loups (Hauts-de-Seine, France). By Liné1 via Wikimedia Commons. |
Betula nana (Mountain Birch, Dwarf Birch in Birch Wildflower Family) |
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Dwarf Tree Betula nana is a genuine dwarf Birch of the northern reaches of Europe and Asia, usually growing with upright stems in bushy manner 24-48 inches (60-120 cms) tall, with tiny, dark glossy green rounded and toothed leaves, and will grow elegantly in a moist part of the rock garden. There is also Betula nana 'Glengarry' - A dwarf, spreading Birch, golden leaves in autumn. |
Miniforest.com in USA:- "LiveScale©Choice Trees and Shrubs for Miniature Gardens and Bonsai Enthusiasts Effective for Garden Railroads, Bonsai, Saikei, rock gardens, troughs and windowbox scenes. Our division of size is based on the International Conifer Guide. Miniature is under 3 feet in 10-15 years. Dwarf is under 6 feet in 10-15 years. Intermediate is 15 feet in 10-15 years. Large is more than 15-20 feet in 10-15 years. We have taken the liberty to apply this division to shrubs and broad leaf trees." |
Betula nana photographed on a hike north of the village Upernavik Kujalleq and north-east of the mountain Kingigtoq, Greenland. By Kim Hansen via Wikimedia Commons. |
Dwarf Conifers The planting of dwarf conifers in the rock garden is a matter of personal taste, and when attempted, should be done with caution. The difficuly is that many so-called slow-growing and dwarf conifers do make surprising growth in 10-15 years, and when a conifer begins to dwarf the scale of the rock garden, it becomes a blot on the landscape. The true dwarfs that remain dwarf can do much to enhance the rock garden scene. If however, the deceptive dwarfs - usually termed slow-growing in catalogues - are to be planted, it must be with the firm determination to root them out as soon as they begin to get too big. The perfect cone-shaped Picea albertiana conica is perfectly charming in its youth, but is no joke when it reaches 72-144 inches (180-360 cms) as it is capable of doing in 15-20 years. Conifers may be broadly divided into those of
Since it is, in part, for their shapeliness that they are grown, their placing should receive much thought. It is usually more effective to plant erect-growing conifers on ledges, in pockets or in terraces against a background of rock, rather than on the sky-line. Conifers look better planted within the rock garden than out at the boundaries. In the case of real dwarfs, it is often effective to make a group planting either of a kind or of contrasting shapes and foliage colours. The prostrate varieties of conifers can be effectively used to spread their branches over wide stones on ledges or terraces. Used low down in the rock garden, they help to make a rock garden or outcrop look as if it did actually grow out of the soil. It is with these principles in mind that the following short list of suitable conifers is suggested. The average rock garden soil compost suits, where drainage is good. After planting, young conifers should have their foliage syringed once or twice daily when dry weather comes in the spring and early summer, for drying winds and drought are lethal to these plants. |
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Chamaecyparis lawsoniana v. ellwoodii. (Lawson False, Ellwood Cypress) Supplier in UK |
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Beautiful,dense, fine feathery blue-grey foliage, slenderly pyramidal at first, more columnar as it ages. Often characterized as slow-growing, but can reach 6 feet = 72 inches = 180 cms in 7 years, and 180 inches (450 cms) in 20, so only really suitable for large rock gardens. Can be readily propagated, however, from cuttings, yielding replacements for overgrown specimens. |
Chamaecyparis lawsoniana is poisonous. |
Chamaecyparis lawsoniana: Female (pollen) cones. By Sten Porse via Wikimedia Commons. |
Chamaecyparis lawsoniana minima aurea Chamaecyparis lawsoniana 'Minima Glauca' Supplier in UK |
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Compact, broadly rounded and conical, with fans of soft gold foliage twisted sideways, growing to 72 inches (180 cms) tall, 84-96 inches (210-240 cms) wide at the base in time, so needs adequate room. |
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Chamaecyparis lawsoniana: Male (pollen) cones. By Sten Porse via Wikimedia Commons. |
Chamaecyparis lawsoniana nana |
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Rounded conical, with rich green foliage, and slow-growing to 48 inches (120 cms). |
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Chamaecyparis 'Pygmaea Argentea' |
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Low, semi-globose habit, with dark blue-green foliage, tipped silver when young; growing slowly to 24-36 inches (60-90 cms) with as much spread. |
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Chamaecyparis obtusa 'Caespitosa' Supplier in New Zealand Chamaecyparis obtusa nana Chamaecyparis obtusa pygmaea Supplier in UK |
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Bun-shaped cushion of dense tufted rich green foliage, and a true miniature not growing more than 4-6 inches (10-15 cms) high in 12 years. |
First Choices
The purpose of the American Conifer Society is to promote the use of conifers in the garden and landscape and to educate the public about their care and preservation. |
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Chamaecyparis pisifera Supplier in UK |
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Low, rounded, wide dome-like hummock of thread-like green foliage, growing very slowly to 12-18 inches (30-45 cms), with 15-21 inches (38-53 cms) spread at the base. |
First Choices |
Sawara Cypress var. 'Filifera Nana' (Chamaecyparis pisifera 'Filifera Nana'). By Athantor via Wikimedia Commons. |
Chamaecyparis thyoides 'Ericoides' |
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Pyramidal, compact, greyish-green foliage, tending to turn bronzy in winter; slow-growing but ultimately reaching 48-72 inches (120-180 cms), and 48 inches (120 cms) spread at base. |
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Cryptomeria japonica |
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Good dwarf, roughly outlined bush form, with green foliage with leaves at tips of shoots white; 24-36 inches (60-90 cms) tall in time. Likes moist soil, out of hot sun. |
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Cryptomeria japonica |
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Irregularly pyramidal, with greyish-green foliage retaining its colour the year round; 48-72 inches (120-180 cms) tall, 36-48 inches (90-120 cms) spread in 15-20 years. Likes moist soil. |
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Juniperus communis 'Compressa' |
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Erect, closely packed, elliptical cone-shaped pillar of fine blue-grey foliage, taking very many years to reach 24 inches (60 cms), a height not often exceeded. Poisonous Plant. |
First choice for trough gardens, and all small rock gardens. |
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Juniperus communis hornibrookii (Juniperus communis prostrata) |
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Attractive, creeping mat-like variety, with grey-green foliage, rarely more than 12 inches (30 cms) high, but spreading up to 72 inches (180 cms) unless checked. Poisonous Plant. |
First Choices |
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Juniperus horizontalis procumbens nana |
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Flat, wide-spreading, fresh green foliage, rarely more than to 18 inches (45 cms) high, but can spread 72-96 inches (180-240 cms) wide. |
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Juniperus sabina tamariscifolia |
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Prostrate-growing, slowly, with branches in wide-spreading tiers of feathery lightish green foliage. May reach 36 inches (90 cms) high with a 72-96 inch (180-240 cms) spread in 20 years. Poisonous Plant. |
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Picea abies 'Gregoryana' Supplier in UK Picea abies humilis Supplier in UK |
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Godd dwarf, dense, hummock-shaped, broad-based, with needle-like, grey-green leaves, radiating spirally on shoots; very slow-growing to 18 inches (45 cms) high, with up to 24 inches (60 cms) spread. |
First Choices |
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Picea abies 'Albertiana conica' |
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Pleasing conical shape, down to the gound, with closely packed heads of lightish green needle-like leaves, but can outgrow small rock gardens in 10-15 years, and look dominatingly out of place. |
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Pinus sylvestris 'Pygmaea' (Pigmy Scots Pine) Supplier in Canada |
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Dwarf, low rounded bush form of the Scots Pine, with somewhat shaggy grey-green leaves, growing slowly to 6 inches (90 cms) in time. |
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Pinus sylvestris 'Beauvronensis' Supplier in USA |
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Pinus sylvestris beauvronensis is similar but taller - growing eventually to 54 inches (135 cms), with a spread of 60-72 inches (150-180 cms). |
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Taxus baccata 'Adpressa Aurea' Supplier in UK |
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A dwarf, bush-like yew, with golden-green foliage, growing to 48-72 inches (120-180 cms), and spreading somewhat wider, in about 12 years. |
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Taxus baccata fastigiata standishii |
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Although growing to 48-60 inches (120-150 cms) tall in time, remains a narrow pillar, less than 12 inches (30 cms) through, with bright gold foliage. Planted low in a rock garden, it is always attractive. The following is from the Royal Horticultural Society advice on Yew:- |
First Choices |
Taxus baccata 'Fastigiata' in the Arboretum de Chèvreloup in Rocquencourt. By Matthieu Sontag via Wikimedia Commons. |
Taxus baccata pygmaea Supplier in UK |
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Dwarf, egg-shaped bush, with green foliage, growing to 18 inches (45 cms) high, 12 inches (30 cms) through. |
First Choices |
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Thuja occidentalis ellwangeriana 'Rheingold' |
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Conical, upright habit, with beautiful golden foliage that turns bronze in winter, growing to about 36 inches (90 cms) in 10 years. Easily propagated from cuttings. |
First Choices |
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Thuja orientalis 'Minima Glauca' (Platycladus orientalis redirected from Thuja orientalis) |
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Completely dwarf, globose in shape, with minute grey-green leaves, turning bronze in winter, up to 9 inches (23 cms) tall. |
First Choices |
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Thuja plicata 'Hillerieri' |
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Dwarf with densley packed branchlets, sometimes modified into slender, whippy tip shoots; growing slowly up to about 24 inches (60 cms). |
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The Rhododendron Species Foundation & Botanical Garden is in Washington, USA:- "The Rhododendron Species Foundation & Botanical Garden is a non-profit membership organization dedicated to the conservation, public display, and distribution of Rhododendron species. Home to one of the largest collections of species rhododendrons in the world, the garden displays over 700 of the more than 1,000 species found in the wilds of North America, Europe, and Asia, as well as the tropical regions of southeast Asia and northern Australia. Conservation has come to be of primary importance in recent years with the destruction of Rhododendron habitat in many areas of the world." |
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Slow Growing and Dwarf Conifers from The Gardeners Guild - The Trade Network for Qualified Gardeners (The Gardeners Guild is a national trade network for professionally qualified gardeners. Our members are self-employed gardeners who offer garden and grounds maintenance as part of their services.):- There are so many conifers to choose from it is difficult to know where to begin. With so much choice comes variety with many different shapes, colours and sizes. The cheapest conifers are often the conifers that grow most quickly but these can quickly get out of hand. Below is a list of dwarf and slow growing conifers ideal for specific positions in your garden where the size of the mature plant needs to be predictable. Abies
Chamaecyparis lawsoniana
Chamaecyparis obtusa
Chamaecyparis pisifera
Chamaecyparis thoides
Cryptomeria japonica
Juniperus chinensis
Juniperus communis
Juniperus Squamata
Picea abies
Picea glauca
Picea mariana
Picea Pungens
Pinus densiflora
Pinus leucodermis
Pinus mugo
Pinus parviflora
Pinus sylvestrus
Podocarpus
Taxus baccata
Thuja occidentalis
Thuja orientalis
Tsuga Canadensis
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Find Me Plants in the UK has the page with links to these Plant Top Tens Pages:- "Welcome to FindMePlants at a glance plant listings. These listings exist as an add-on to our plant finder and provide the gardener with plant suggestions for very particular - usually difficult - conditions. Click on the links below to view our top ten planting suggestions. Or if you are looking for the best way to find the ideal plants for your particular garden, give our Plant Finder a try.
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Glendoick in Scotland with its Garden:- "You can see one of the finest collections of rhododendrons and azaleas, primula, meconopsis, kalmia and sorbus in our woodland garden, peat garden and nursery. Many of the Rhododendron and azalea species and hybrids have been introduced from the wild or bred by the Cox family and the gardens boast a huge range of plants from as far afield as Chile, Tasmania and Tibet. Three New waterfall viewing platforms have been built in the woodland gardens. You can also take a glimpse into the fascinating world of hybridising in the walled garden where you'll find new as yet unnamed hybrids from the Glendoick breeding programme trial beds. Peter and Kenneth Cox have written numerous books on rhododendrons and gardens. Kenneth Cox's book Scotland for Gardeners describes 500 of Scotland's finest gardens:- PUBLICATIONS BY Peter Cox
PUBLICATIONS by Kenneth Cox
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My name is Innes Hogg and my wife, Nicola, and I run Craigiehall Nursery, a small nursery in southern Scotland specialising in alpine and rock plants. We operate our nursery entirely on our own, without help. We propagate and grow every plant we sell. We are growers, not traders. We have been in business on this site growing and selling alpine plants for over 28 years. We have both been in horticulture for over 35 years and each of us has a Diploma in Horticulture. For many years we concentrated on growing alpine plants wholesale for other nurseries and garden centres but we now grow a selected range of plants for sale exclusively through this website. I think this makes us unique - for other nurseries a website is simply another revenue stream, for us, it is our only income. Please note - the nursery does not open to the public. We grow a very wide range of alpine and rock garden plants - we have over 500 different varieties on the nursery. Some are quite common, others much less so, but they are all good plants. Some of our range can be more of a challenge to the grower and gardener but the majority stand a very good chance (with a little care and 'gardening') of succeeding in most gardens. We aim to grow plants that you will enjoy and have success with, not difficult, expensive rarities. Our online Plant Shop describes all our plants and offers tips on how to grow them. We don't grow large numbers of any single plant - we try to produce small, succesive batches so we can offer a wide range at all times. We mostly propagate from cuttings - it's often the only way to raise all the better, named forms and all the variegated, coloured leaved plants which add colour to our gardens. This requires skill and great attention to detail - exactly what we are good at. We also grow some things from divisions and some from seed but avoid the very easy (and cheaper) seed-raised varieties that are widely available. When I say, "grow", I mean just that - we keep our own stock (mother) plants from which we take cuttings (or save seeds from) and root, pot, water and care for every single plant we sell. We do not buy plants to resell nor do we buy plants to simply pot up and sell. This means we know about every plant we grow and it allows us to offer a selection far beyond what is available in any garden centre. Everything we do is 'hand-crafted'. Many nurseries specialise in certain plants - we don't, we like to offer a wide range of alpine plants (and only alpine plants). We have collected an excellent range of Helianthemum; we grow many of the better Saxifraga; we have a wide range of named Sempervivum which we grow to the highest standards and we always have a good range of honest (at long last an honest plant that does what it says on the tin!!!), reliable alpines for garden planting. We don't do cheap and cheerful. We are able to offer some plants which are often hard to find - Erigeron 'Canary Bird', our range of Saxifraga oppositifolia and an eclectic range of range of less readily available, but desirable plants. All packed up with great care and delivered your home. We mix our own special peat-free compost for almost all our range. We do still use some peat - the few acid-loving plants we grow don't do so well in our peat-free mix - but we're working towards being entirely peat-free and we're almost there. We also include a good proportion of high quality, sterilised loam (soil) in our potting mixes - the plants like it and it really does improve the plants' ability to establish in the garden. Whilst on about 'green' issues, we minimise pesticide use and reduce, re-use and recycle wherever possible. If you order plants they may well arrive in reused boxes and packaging so don't be excited (or alarmed) if a box of Finest Scotch Whisky arrives! Everything we grow spends a good part of its life outside to give a good, well-grown, hardy plant, but given our location we can't over-winter every plant outside, though many will. We have several polytunnels we use but they are completely unheated, well ventilated even in winter and act only to keep the winter rain and snow off those plants which need it. It's not that the plants are in any way tender, but at the early stages of a plants' life they do need a certain amount of protection. That is why nurseries are called nurseries after all - to nurse things. We also like to send plants which are thriving, not simply clinging on to life just because they can and a little winter protection helps us do that for early spring orders. And we're not in this to make a fortune. Just as well, eh? We started off with nothing - and we still have most of it left! Happy gardening! Innes and Nicola Hogg - Trading in partnership as Craigiehall Nursery, Carnwath, Lanark, South Lanarkshire, ML11 8LH" |
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"When the stones are in place and the soil filled in and firmed, it is timely to consider the foundation plantings. These are the plants that are likely to remain with us many years, even a lifetime, and by their permanence vitally and everlastingly influence the character and appeal of the garden and its setting. In the rock garden these plants are the dwarf alpine shrub and conifers. They are in the nature of living furnishings, and
These plants are usually the first to go in;
The technique of planting is similar to that for other trees and shrubs. A planting hole should be made at least half as wide again as the present spread of the roots of the plant, with a rounded base like an inverted saucer. Most dwarf shrubs can be set with their lowest shoots or branches just resting on the soil surface, but conifers and plants on a single stem should be placed so that the soil reaches only to the soil mark on their stems made by the nursery planting. Soil is sifted in and firmed with finger pressure to the roots, and pressed down when completed without making it ironhard. Evergreens and conifers provided with roots in a soil ball only need to have the outer wrapping of hesian or polythene removed. Plants out of pots need drainage crocks removed with a pointed stick, and any roots wrapped around the inside wall of the pot should be straightened out with a minimum disturbance of the soil. After planting, a careful soaking of the soil will help further to settle it to the roots." |
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Ivydene Gardens Stage 2 - Infill Plants Index Gallery: |
STAGE 2 |
STAGE 1 GARDEN STYLE INDEX GALLERY PAGES Links to pages in Table alongside on the left with Garden Design Topic Pages |
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STAGE 2 INFILL PLANT INDEX GALLERIES 1, 2, 3 with its Cultivation Requirements |
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Alpines for Rock Garden (See Rock Garden Plant Flowers) |
Alpines and Walls |
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Scent / Fra-grance with Annuals for Cool or Shady Places from 1916 |
Low-allergen Gardens for Hay Fever Sufferers |
Annual Plant Pairing Ideas and Colour Schemes with Annuals |
Medium-Growing Annuals |
Tall-Growing Annuals with White Flowers from 1916 |
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Blue to Purple Flowers |
Green Flowers with Annuals and Biennials from 1916 |
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Bedding for Light Sandy Soil |
Bedding for Acid Soil |
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Biennial for |
Patio Con-tainers with Biennials for Pots in Green-house / Con-servatory |
Bene-ficial to Wildlife with Purple and Blue Flowers from 1916 |
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Bulb for |
Indoor Bulbs for Sep-tember |
Bulbs in Window-boxes |
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Any Plant Type (some grown in Cool Green-house) Bloom-ing in |
Any Plant Type (some grown in Cool Green-house) Bloom-ing in |
Any Plant Type (some grown in Cool Green-house) Bloom-ing in |
Any Plant Type Blooming in Smallest of Gardens |
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Bulbs in Green-house or Stove |
Achi-menes, Alocasias, Amorpho-phalluses, Aris-aemas, Arums, Begonias, Bomar-eas, Calad-iums |
Clivias, |
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Hardy Bulbs
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Amaryllis, Antheri-cum, Antholy-zas, Apios, Arisaema, Arum, Aspho-deline, |
Cyclamen, Dicentra, Dierama, Eranthis, Eremurus, Ery-thrnium, Eucomis |
Fritillaria, Funkia, Gal-anthus, Galtonia, Gladiolus, Hemero-callis |
Hya-cinth, Hya-cinths in Pots, |
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Lilium in Pots, Malvastrum, Merendera, Milla, Narcissus, Narcissi in Pots |
Half-Hardy Bulbs |
Gladioli, Ixias, |
Plant each Bedding Plant with a Ground, Edging or Dot Plant for |
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Climber 3 sector Vertical Plant System with
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1a. |
1b. |
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2b. |
3a. |
3c. |
Raised |
Plants for Wildlife-Use as well |
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Least prot-ruding growth when fan-trained |
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Needs Conserv-atory or Green-house |
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Climber - Simple Flower Shape |
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Climber - Elabo-rated Flower Shape |
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DISCLAIMER: Links to external sites are provided as a courtesy to visitors. Ivydene Horticultural Services are not responsible for the content and/or quality of external web sites linked from this site. |
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Scented Flora of the World by Roy Genders - was first published in 1977 and this paperback edition was published on 1 August 1994 ISBN 0 7090 5440 8:- |
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I am using the above book from someone who took 30 years to compile it from notes made of his detailed observations of growing plants in preference to |
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The Propagation of Alpines by Lawrence D. Hills. Published in 1950 by Faber and Faber Limited describes every method of propagation for 2,500 species. Unlike modern books published since 1980, this one states exactly what to do and is precisely what you require if you want to increase your alpines. |
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STAGE 4C CULTIVATION, POSITION, USE GALLERY
Cultivation Requirements of Plant |
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Outdoor / Garden Cultivation |
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Indoor / House Cultivation |
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Cool Greenhouse (and Alpine House) Cultivation with artificial heating in the Winter |
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Conservatory Cultivation with heating throughout the year |
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Stovehouse Cultivation with heating throughout the year for Tropical Plants |
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Sun Aspect |
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Soil Type |
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Soil Moisture |
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Position for Plant |
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Ground Cover 0-24 inches (0-60 cms) |
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Ground Cover 24-72 inches (60-180 cms) |
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Ground Cover Over 72 inches (180 cms) |
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1, 2, |
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Use of Plant |
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STAGE 4D Plant Foliage |
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Flower Shape |
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Number of Flower Petals |
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Flower Shape - Simple |
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Flower Shape - Elaborated |
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Natural Arrangements |
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STAGE 4D |
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Form |
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STAGE 1
Fragrant Plants adds the use of another of your 5 senses in your garden:- |
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STAGE 2 Fan-trained Shape From Rhododendrons, boxwood, azaleas, clematis, novelties, bay trees, hardy plants, evergreens : novelties bulbs, cannas novelties, palms, araucarias, ferns, vines, orchids, flowering shrubs, ornamental grasses and trees book, via Wikimedia Commons |
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Ramblers Scramblers & Twiners by Michael Jefferson-Brown (ISBN 0 - 7153 - 0942 - 0) describes how to choose, plant and nurture over 500 high-performance climbing plants and wall shrubs, so that more can be made of your garden if you think not just laterally on the ground but use the vertical support structures including the house as well. The Gardener's Illustrated Encyclopedia of Climbers & Wall Shrubs - A Guide to more than 2000 varieties including Roses, Clematis and Fruit Trees by Brian Davis. (ISBN 0-670-82929-3) provides the lists for 'Choosing the right Shrub or Climber' together with Average Height and Spread after 5 years, 10 years and 20 years. |
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STAGE 2
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STAGE 4D Trees and Shrubs suitable for Clay Soils (neutral to slightly acid) Trees and Shrubs suitable for Dry Acid Soils Trees and Shrubs suitable for Shallow Soil over Chalk Trees and Shrubs tolerant of both extreme Acidity and Alkalinity Trees and Shrubs suitable for Damp Sites Trees and Shrubs suitable for Industrial Areas Trees and Shrubs suitable for Cold Exposed Areas Trees and Shrubs suitable for Seaside Areas Shrubs suitable for Heavy Shade Shrubs and Climbers suitable for NORTH- and EAST-facing Walls Shrubs suitable for Ground Cover Trees and Shrubs of Upright or Fastigiate Habit Trees and Shrubs with Ornamental Bark or Twigs Trees and Shrubs with Bold Foliage Trees and Shrubs for Autumn Colour Trees and Shrubs with Red or Purple Foliage Trees and Shrubs with Golden or Yellow Foliage Trees and Shrubs with Grey or Silver Foliage Trees and Shrubs with Variegated Foliage Trees and Shrubs bearing Ornamental Fruit Trees and Shrubs with Fragrant or Scented Flowers Trees and Shrubs with Aromatic Foliage Flowering Trees and Shrubs for Every Month:- |
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Soil contains living material that requires the right structure and organic material to provide food for plants. If the structure of the soil tends towards a loam of about 20-50% sand, silt and 20 - 40% clay with a pH between 6 and 7.5, then this suitable for a high proportion of plants. Otherwise an application of a mulch of sand and horticultural grit for clay, or clay and horticultural grit for sand, is required to improve plant growth. If an annual mulch of organic material (Spent Mushroom Compost, Cow Manure, Horse Manure does contain weed seeds and should only be used under hedges or ground-covering trees/shrubs) is applied of 100mm (4”) thickness to the soil, then the living material in the soil can continue their role of feeding the plants. This mulch will stop the ground drying out due to wind or sun having direct access to the ground surface. The annual loss of organic matter from soils in cool humid climates is about 6lbs per square metre. If there is also a drip-feed irrigation system under the mulch (which is used for 4 continuous hours a week - when there is no rain that week from April to September), then the living material can get their food delivered in solution or suspension. If the prunings from your garden are shredded (or reduced to 4” lengths) and then applied as a mulch to your flower beds or hedges, followed by 0.5” depth of grass mowings on top; this will also provide a start for improvement of your soil. The 0.5" layer can be applied again after a fortnight; when the aerobic composting stage (the aerobic composting creates heat and 0.5" - 1 cm - thickness does not become too hot to harm the plants next to it) has been completed during the summer. Anaerobic (without using air) composting then completes the process. Application of Seaweed Meal for Trace Elements and other chemicals required to replenish what has been used by the plants in the previous year for application in Spring are detailed in the How are Chemicals stored and released from Soil? page.
You normally eat and drink at least 3 times every day to keep you growing, healthy and active; plants also require to eat and drink every day. Above 5 degrees Celcius plants tend to grow above ground and below 5 degrees Celcius they tend to grow their roots underground. 2 minor points to remember with their result-
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Soils and their Treatment
Soil Improvement |
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and • Watering Schedule - Far and away the best course of action against slugs in your garden is a simple adjustment in the watering schedule. Slugs are most active at night and are most efficient in damp conditions. Avoid watering your garden in the evening if you have a slug problem. Water in the morning - the surface soil will be dry by evening. Studies show this can reduce slug damage by 80%.
• Seaweed - If you have access to seaweed, it's well worth the effort to gather. Seaweed is not only a good soil amendment for the garden, it's a natural repellent for slugs. Mulch with seaweed around the base of plants or perimeter of bed. Pile it on 3" to 4" thick - when it dries it will shrink to just an inch or so deep. Seaweed is salty and slugs avoid salt. Push the seaweed away from plant stems so it's not in direct contact. During hot weather, seaweed will dry and become very rough which also deters the slugs.
• Copper - Small strips of copper can be placed around flower pots or raised beds as obstructions for slugs to crawl over. Cut 2" strips of thin copper and wrap around the lower part of flower pots, like a ribbon. Or set the strips in the soil on edge, making a "fence" for the slugs to climb. Check to make sure no vegetation hangs over the copper which might provide a 'bridge' for the slugs. Copper barriers also work well around wood barrels used as planters.
• Diatomaceous Earth - Diatomaceous earth (Also known as "Insect Dust") is the sharp, jagged skeletal remains of microscopic creatures. It lacerates soft-bodied pests, causing them to dehydrate. A powdery granular material, it can be sprinkled around garden beds or individual plants, and can be mixed with water to make a foliar spray.
• Electronic "slug fence" - An electronic slug fence is a non-toxic, safe method for keeping slugs out of garden or flower beds. The Slugs Away fence is a 24-foot long, 5" ribbon-like barrier that runs off a 9 volt battery. When a slug or snail comes in contact with the fence, it receives a mild static sensation that is undetectable to animals and humans. This does not kill the slug, it cause it to look elsewhere for forage. The battery will power the fence for about 8 months before needing to be replaced. Extension kits are availabe for increased coverage. The electronic fence will repel slugs and snails, but is harmless to people and pets.
• Lava Rock - Like diatomaceous earth, the abrasive surface of lava rock will be avoided by slugs. Lava rock can be used as a barrier around plantings, but should be left mostly above soil level, otherwise dirt or vegetation soon forms a bridge for slugs to cross.
• Salt - If all else fails, go out at night with the salt shaker and a flashlight. Look at the plants which have been getting the most damage and inspect the leaves, including the undersides. Sprinkle a bit of salt on the slug and it will kill it quickly. Not particularly pleasant, but use as a last resort. (Note: some sources caution the use of salt, as it adds a toxic element to the soil. This has not been our experience, especially as very little salt is used.)
• Beer - Slugs are attracted to beer. Set a small amount of beer in a shallow wide jar buried in the soil up to its neck. Slugs will crawl in and drown. Take the jar lid and prop it up with a small stick so rain won't dilute the beer. Leave space for slugs to enter the trap.
• Overturned Flowerpots, Grapefruit Halves, Board on Ground - Overturned flowerpots, with a stone placed under the rim to tilt it up a bit, will attract slugs. Leave overnight, and you'll find the slugs inside in the morning. Grapefruit halves work the same way, with the added advantage of the scent of the fruit as bait.
• Garlic-based slug repellents
Laboratory tests at the University of Newcastle-Upon-Tyne (UK) revealed that a highly refined garlic product (ECOguard produced by ECOspray Ltd, a British company that makes organic pesticides) was an effective slug killer. Look for garlic-based slug deterrents which will be emerging under various brand names, as well as ECOguard.
• Coffee grounds; new caffeine-based slug/snail poisons - Coffee grounds scattered on top of the soil will deter slugs. The horticultural side effects of using strong grounds such as espresso on the garden, however, are less certain. When using coffee grounds, moderation is advised. |
UKButterflies Larval Foodplants website page lists the larval foodplants used by British butterflies. The name of each foodplant links to a Google search. An indication of whether the foodplant is a primary or secondary food source is also given. Please note that the Butterfly you see for only a short time has grown up on plants as an egg, caterpillar and chrysalis for up to 11 months, before becoming a butterfly. If the plants that they live on during that time are removed, or sprayed with herbicide, then you will not see the butterfly. |
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Plants used by the Butterflies follow the Plants used by the Egg, Caterpillar and Chrysalis as stated in |
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Plant Name |
Butterfly Name |
Egg/ Caterpillar/ Chrysalis/ Butterfly |
Plant Usage |
Plant Usage Months |
Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
10 days in May-June |
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Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
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Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
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Egg, |
1 egg at base of plant. |
Late August-April |
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Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
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Egg, |
1 egg laid on underside of leaflets or bracts. |
7 days in June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg laid on underside of leaflets or bracts. |
7 days in June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg laid under the leaf or on top of the flower. |
7 days in August. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
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Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
10 days in May-June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
2 weeks |
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Cabbages - Large White eats all cruciferous plants, such as cabbages, mustard, turnips, radishes, cresses, nasturtiums, wild mignonette and dyer's weed |
Egg,
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40-100 eggs on both surfaces of leaf. |
May-June and August-Early September. 4.5-17 days. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on underside of leaf. |
May-June and August. 7 days. |
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Cabbages:- |
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of leaf. |
July or August; hatches in 3 days. |
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Cabbages:- |
Egg, |
1 egg laid in the tight buds and flowers. |
May-June 7 days. |
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Cherry with |
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
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Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
10 days in May-June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
6 days in May-June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
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(Common CowWheat, Field CowWheat) |
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 16 days in June. |
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Currants |
Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
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Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 20 days in July. |
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Dog Violet with |
Egg, |
1 egg on oak or pine tree trunk |
15 days in July. |
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Dog Violet with |
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf or stem. |
Hatches after 15 days in May-June. |
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Dog Violet with |
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf or stem. |
Hatches after 10 days in May-June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
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Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
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False Brome is a grass (Wood Brome, Wood False-brome and Slender False-brome) |
Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
... |
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Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 20 days in July. |
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Egg, |
1 egg laid on underside of leaflets or bracts. |
7 days in June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf or stem. |
Hatches after 10 days in May-June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
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Egg, |
1 egg laid under the leaf or on top of the flower. |
7 days in August. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. 5 or 6 eggs may be deposited by separate females on one leaf. |
14 days in July-August. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
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Egg, |
1 egg laid in the tight buds and flowers. |
May-June 7 days. |
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Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 20 days in July. |
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Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
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Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
1 then |
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Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
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Egg, |
1 egg at base of plant. |
Late August-April. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
10 days in May-June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
2 weeks |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
6 days in May-June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on underside of leaf. |
May-June and August. 7 days. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. 5 or 6 eggs may be deposited by separate females on one leaf. |
14 days in July-August. |
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Narrow-leaved Plantain (Ribwort Plantain) |
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 16 days in June. |
|
Narrow-leaved Plantain (Ribwort Plantain) |
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 16 days in June. |
|
Nasturtium from Gardens |
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of leaf. |
May-June and August. 7 days. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on tree trunk |
15 days in July. |
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Mountain pansy, |
Egg, Chrysalis |
1 egg laid under the leaf or on top of the flower. |
7 days in August. 3 weeks in September |
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Egg, |
1 egg on tree trunk. |
15 days in July. |
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Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 20 days in July. |
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Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
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Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
- |
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Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
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Egg, |
1 egg laid under the leaf or on top of the flower. |
7 days in August. |
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Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
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Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 16 days in June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
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Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
|
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Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
2 weeks |
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Trefoils 1, 2, 3 |
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
6 days in May-June. |
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Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
- |
||
Egg, |
1 egg laid on underside of leaflets or bracts. |
7 days in June. |
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Violets:- |
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of leaf or on stalk. |
July-August for 17 days. |
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Violets:- |
Egg, |
1 egg on stem or stalk near plant base. |
July to hatch in 8 months in March. |
|
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
2 weeks. |
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Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. 5 or 6 eggs may be deposited by separate females on one leaf. |
14 days in July-August. |
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Willow |
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
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Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 20 days in July. |
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Plants used by the Butterflies |
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Plant Name |
Butterfly Name |
Egg/ Caterpillar/ Chrysalis/ Butterfly |
Plant Usage |
Plant Usage Months |
Asters |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
|
|
Runner and Broad Beans in fields and gardens |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-June or July-September. |
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Aubretia in gardens |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June or August till killed by frost and damp in September-November |
|
Butterfly |
Eats sap exuding from trunk. |
April-Mid June and Mid July-Early September for second generation. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
20 days. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June |
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Holly Blue |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-Mid June and Mid July-Early September for second generation. |
|
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October. |
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Buddleias |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October. |
|
Wood White |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June. |
|
Cabbage and cabbages in fields |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-June or July-September. |
|
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
July-October |
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Adonis Blue |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
1 Month during Mid-May to Mid-June or during August-September |
|
Pale Clouded Yellow |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June or August till killed by frost and damp in September-November |
|
Cow-wheat |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June-July |
|
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-Mid June and Mid July-Early September for second generation. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
3 weeks between May and September |
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Germander Speedwell (Veronica chamaedrys - Birdseye Speedwell) |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June-July |
|
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
30 days in May-June. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-September |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
May-June for 18 days. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
1 Month. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October. |
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Painted Lady |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
July-October. |
|
Marigolds in gardens |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June or August till killed by frost and damp in September-November |
|
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
1 Month during Mid-May to Mid-June or during August-September. |
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Michaelmas Daisies |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October |
|
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-June or July-September. |
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Narrow-leaved Plantain (Ribwort Plantain) |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June-July |
|
Nasturtiums in gardens |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-June or July-September |
|
Butterfly |
Eats sap exuding from trunk. |
April-Mid June and Mid July-Early September for second generation. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
July-October. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
July-May |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
7 weeks in July-August. |
||
Comma |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October. |
|
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
3 weeks between May and September |
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Trefoils 1, 2, 3 |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
1 Month during Mid-May to Mid-June or during August-September |
|
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
20 days in August. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June.
|
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June-July |
||
Apple/Pear/Cherry/Plum Fruit Tree Blossom in Spring |
Butterfly |
Eats Nectar |
April-May |
|
Rotten Fruit |
Butterfly |
Drinks juice |
July-September |
|
Tree sap and damaged ripe fruit, which are high in sugar |
Butterfly |
Hibernates inside hollow trees or outhouses until March. Eats sap or fruit juice until April. |
10 months in June-April |
|
Wild Flowers |
Large Skipper |
Butterfly |
Eats Nectar |
June-August |
Links to the other Butterflies:- Black Hairstreak |
Topic - Wildlife on Plant Photo Gallery. Some UK native butterflies eat material from UK Native Wildflowers and live on them as eggs, caterpillars (Large Skipper eats False Brome grass - Brachypodium sylvaticum - for 11 months from July to May as a Caterpillar before becoming a Chrysalis within 3 weeks in May) chrysalis or butterflies ALL YEAR ROUND. |
Wild Flower Family Page (the families within "The Pocket Guide to Wild Flowers" by David McClintock & R.S.R. Fitter, Published in 1956 They are not in Common Name alphabetical order and neither are the common names of the plants detailed within each family. The information in the above book is back-referenced to the respective page in "Flora of the British Isles" by A.R. Clapham of University of Sheffield, |
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When you look at the life history graphs of each of the 68 butterflies of Britain, you will see that they use plants throughout all 12 months - the information of what plant is used by the egg, caterpillar, chrysalis or butterfly is also given in the above first column.
THE LIFE AND DEATH OF A FLAILED CORNISH HEDGE - This details that life and death from July 1972 to 2019, with the following result:- End note, June 2008. I hear spring vetch has been officially recorded somewhere in West Cornwall and confirmed as a presence in the county, so perhaps I can be permitted to have seen it pre-1972 in the survey mile. I wonder where they found it? It's gone from hedges where it used to be, along with other scarcities and so-called scarcities that used to flourish in so many hedges unrecorded, before the flail arrived. I have given careful thought to including mention of some of the plants and butterflies. So little seems to be known of the species resident in Cornish hedges pre-flail that I realise some references may invite scepticism. I am a sceptic myself, so sympathise with the reaction; but I have concluded that, with a view to re-establishing vulnerable species, it needs to be known that they can with the right management safely and perpetually thrive in ordinary Cornish hedges. In future this knowledge could solve the increasingly difficult question of sufficient and suitable sites for sustainable wild flower and butterfly conservation - as long as it is a future in which the hedge-flail does not figure.
CHECK-LIST OF TYPES OF CORNISH HEDGE FLORA by Sarah Carter of Cornish Hedges Library:-
Titles of papers available on www.cornishhedges.co.uk:-
THE GUILD OF CORNISH HEDGERS is the non-profit-making organisation founded in 2002 to support the concern among traditional hedgers about poor standards of workmanship in Cornish hedging today. The Guild has raised public awareness of Cornwall's unique heritage of hedges and promoted free access to the Cornish Hedges Library, the only existing source of full and reliable written knowledge on Cornish hedges." |
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Recommended Plants for Wildlife in different situations
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From the Ivydene Gardens Box to Crowberry Wild Flower Families Gallery: |
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The Bumblebee Pages website is divided into five major areas:
FORCED INDOOR BULBS in Window Box Gardens. |
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Theme |
Plants |
Comments |
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Thyme |
Thymus praecox, wild thyme Thymus pulegioides Thymus leucotrichus Thymus citriodorus |
Thymes make a very fragrant, easy to care for windowbox, and an excellent choice for windy sites. The flower colour will be pinky/purple, and you can eat the leaves if your air is not too polluted. Try to get one variegated thyme to add a little colour when there are no flowers. |
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Herb |
Sage, mint, chives, thyme, rosemary |
Get the plants from the herb section of the supermarket, so you can eat the leaves. Do not include basil as it need greater fertility than the others. Pot the rosemary up separately if it grows too large. |
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Mints |
Mentha longifolia, horse mint Mentha spicata, spear mint Mentha pulgium, pennyroyal Mentha piperita, peppermint Mentha suaveolens, apple mint |
Mints are fairly fast growers, so you could start this box with seed. They are thugs, though, and will very soon be fighting for space. So you will either have to thin and cut back or else you will end up with one species - the strongest. The very best mint tea I ever had was in Marrakesh. A glass full of fresh mint was placed in front of me, and boiling water was poured into it. Then I was given a cube of sugar to hold between my teeth while I sipped the tea. Plant this box and you can have mint tea for months. |
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Heather |
Too many to list See Heather Shrub gallery |
For year-round colour try to plant varieties that flower at different times of year. Heather requires acid soils, so fertilise with an ericaceous fertilser, and plant in ericaceous compost. Cut back after flowering and remove the cuttings. It is best to buy plants as heather is slow growing. |
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Blue |
Ajuga reptans, bugle Endymion non-scriptus, bluebell Myosotis spp., forget-me-not Pentaglottis sempervirens, alkanet |
This will give you flowers from March till July. The bluebells should be bought as bulbs, as seed will take a few years to flower. The others can be started from seed. |
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Yellow |
Anthyllis vulneraria, kidney vetch Geum urbanum, wood avens Lathryus pratensis, meadow vetchling Linaria vulgaris, toadflax Lotus corniculatus, birdsfoot trefoil Primula vulgaris, primrose Ranunculus acris, meadow buttercup Ranunculus ficaria, lesser celandine |
These will give you flowers from May to October, and if you include the primrose, from February. Try to include a vetch as they can climb or trail so occupy the space that other plants can't. All can be grown from seed. |
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White |
Trifolium repens, white clover Bellis perennis, daisy Digitalis purpurea alba, white foxglove Alyssum maritimum Redsea odorata, mignonette |
All can be grown from seed. The clover and daisy will have to be cut back as they will take over. The clover roots add nitrogen to the soil. The mignonette flower doesn't look very special, but the fragrance is wonderful, and the alyssum smells of honey. |
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Pink |
Lychnis flos-cucli, ragged robin Scabiosa columbaria, small scabious Symphytum officinale, comfrey |
The comfrey will try to take over. Its leaves make an excellent fertiliser, and are very good on the compost heap, though windowbox gardeners rarely have one. |
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Fragrant |
Lonicera spp., honeysuckle Alyssum maritimum Redsea odorata, mignonette Lathyrus odoratus, sweet pea |
The sweet pea will need twine or something to climb up, so is suitable if you have sliding windows or window that open inwards. You will be rewarded by a fragrant curtain every time you open your window. |
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Spring bulbs and late wildflowers |
Galanthus nivalis, snowdrop Narcissus pseudonarcissus, narcissius Crocus purpureus, crocus Cyclamen spp. |
The idea of this box is to maximize your space. The bulbs (cyclamen has a corm) will flower and do their stuff early in the year. After flowering cut the heads off as you don't want them making seed, but leave the leaves as they fatten up the bulbs to store energy for next year. The foliage of the wildflowers will hide the bulb leaves to some extent. Then the wildflowers take over and flower till autumn |
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Aster spp., Michaelmas daisy Linaria vulgaris, toadflax Lonicera spp., honeysuckle Succisa pratensis, devil's bit scabious Mentha pulgium, pennyroyal |
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Bee Garden in Europe or North America |
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Plants for moths (including larval food plants and adult nectar sources) from Gardens for Wildlife - Practical advice on how to attract wildlife to your garden by Martin Walters as an Aura Garden Guide. Published in 2007 - ISBN 978 1905765041:- |
Marjoram - Origanum officinale |
"On average, 2 gardeners a year die in the UK as a result of poisonous plants. Those discussed in this blog illustrate a range of concerns that should be foremost in the designer’s mind." from Pages on poisonous plants in this website:- |
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Wildlife-friendly Show Gardens
Many of our gardens at Natural Surroundings demonstrate what you can do at home to encourage wildlife in your garden:-
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Ivydene Gardens Water Fern to Yew Wild Flower Families Gallery: |
Only Wildflowers detailed in the following Wildflower Colour Pages |
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Jan |
Feb |
Mar |
Apr |
May |
Jun |
Jul |
Aug |
Sep |
Oct |
Nov |
Dec |
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1 |
Blue |
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1 |
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1 |
Cream |
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1 |
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1 |
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1 |
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1 |
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1 |
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1 |
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1 |
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1 |
White A-D |
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1 Yellow |
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1 |
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1 |
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1 |
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1 |
Flowering plants of |
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1 |
Flowering plants of |
The following table shows the linkages for the information about the plants
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STAGE 1 GARDEN STYLE INDEX GALLERY |
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Private Garden Design:- |
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<---- |
Yes |
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No |
Cannot be bothered. |
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At Home with Gard-ening Area |
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Balcony Garden or Roof Garden |
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Grow flowers for flower arranging and vegetables on Balcony Garden or Roof Garden |
Pan Plant Back-grou-nd Colour |
STAGE 3b |
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Outside Garden |
Pan, Trough and Window-Box Odds and Sods |
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Kinds of Pan Plants that may be split up and tucked in Corners and Crevices |
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Trough and Window-box plants 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 |
Pan Plant |
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You need to know the following:- |
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A) Bee Pollinated Plants for Hay Fever Sufferers List leads onto the |
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Human Prob-lems |
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Blind, |
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Garden Style, which takes into account the Human Problems above |
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Classic Mixed Style |
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Cottage Garden Style |
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. |
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Naturalistic Style |
Formal English Garden |
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Mediterranean Style |
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Meadow and Corn-field |
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. |
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Paving and Gravel inland, |
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Problem Sites within your chosen Garden Style from the above |
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Exce-ssively Hot, Sunny and Dry Site is suitable for Drought Resistant Plants |
Excessively Wet Soil - especially when caused by poor drainage |
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Control of Pests (Aphids, Rabbits, Deer, Mice, Mole, Snails) / Disease by Companion Planting in Garden |
Whether your Heavy Clay or Light Sandy / Chalk Soil is excessively Alkaline (limy) / Acidic or not, then there is an Action Plan for you to do with your soil, which will improve its texture to make its structure into a productive soil instead of it returning to being just sand, chalk, silt or clay. |
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Problems caused by builders:- 1. Lack of soil on top of builders rubble in garden of just built house. |
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In planning your beds for your garden, before the vertical hard-landscaping framework and the vertical speciman planting is inserted into your soft landscaping plan, the following is useful to consider:- |
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Reasons for stopping infilling of Sense of Fragrance section on 28/07/2016 at end of Sense of Fragrance from Stephen Lacey Page. From September 2017 will be creating the following new pages on Sense of Fragrance using Scented Flora of the World by Roy Genders. |
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After you have selected your vertical hard-landscaping framework and the vertical speciman plants for each bed or border, you will need to infill with plants taking the following into account:- |
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Sense of Fragrance from Roy Genders Flower Perfume Group:- |
Flower Perfume Group:- |
Flower Perfume Group:- |
Leaf Perfume Group:- |
Scent of Wood, Bark and Roots Group:-
Scent of Fungi Group:- |
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Sense of Sight |
Emotion of |
Emotion of |
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. |
Emotion of |
Emotion of Intellectual versus Emotional |
Sense of Touch |
Sense of Taste |
Sense of Sound |
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STAGE 2 INFILL PLANT INDEX GALLERIES 1, 2, 3 for |
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STAGE 3a ALL , 3 AND 4 PLANTS INDEX GALLERIES with pages of content (o) |
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Plant Type |
ABC |
DEF |
GHI |
JKL |
MNO |
PQR |
STU |
VWX |
YZ |
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Alpine in Evergreen Perennial, |
1 (o) |
1 (o) |
1 (o) |
1 (o) |
1 (o) |
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Annual/ Biennial |
1 (o) |
1 (o) |
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Bedding, 25 |
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Bulb, 746 with Use, Flower Colour/Shape of |
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Climber 71 Clematis, 58 other Climbers with Use, Flower Colour and Shape |
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1 (o) |
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Deciduous Shrub 43 with Use and Flower Colour |
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1 (o) |
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Evergreen Perennial 104 with Use, Flower Colour, Flower Shape and Number of Petals |
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Evergreen Shrub 46, Semi-Evergreen Shrub and Heather 74 with Use and Flower Colour |
1 (o) |
1 (o) |
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1 (o) |
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Fern with 706 ferns |
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1 (o) |
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Herbaceous Perennial 91, |
1 (o) |
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Rose with 720 roses within Flower Colour, Flower Shape, Rose Petal Count and Rose Use |
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Sub-Shrub |
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Wildflower 1918 with |
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Finally, you might be advised to check that the adjacent plants to the one you have chosen for that position in a flower bed are suitable; by checking the entry in Companion Planting - like clicking A page for checking Abies - and Pest Control page if you have a pest to control in this part of the flower bed. |
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STAGE 1 GARDEN STYLE INDEX GALLERY |
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STAGE 2 INFILL PLANT INDEX GALLERIES 1, 2, 3 Reference books for these galleries in Table on left |
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STAGE 3a ALL PLANTS INDEX GALLERY |
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STAGE 4C CULTIVATION, POSITION, USE GALLERY |
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Since 2006, I have requested photos etc from the Mail-Order Nurseries in the UK and later from the rest of the World. Few nurseries have responded.
with the aid of further information from other books, magazines and cross-checking on the internet. |