Position for Plant

Ivydene Gardens Stage 4c - Cultivation Requirements, Position and Use Index Gallery:
Position for Plant - Scree Bed

Ivydene Gardens Stage 4c - Cultivation Requirements, Position and Use Index Gallery: Position for Plant - Scree Bed
Botanical Plant Name with link to UK or European Union mail-order supplier for you to contact to buy this plant	Flower Colour Sun Aspect of Full Sun, Part Shade, Full Shade with link to external website for photo/data	Flowering Months with row in each month that it flowers in that colour in STAGE 4A 12 BLOOM COLOURS PER MONTH INDEX GALLERY/ with link to USA or Canada mail-order supplier	Height with Spacings or Width (W) in inches (cms) 1 inch = 2.5 cms 12 inches = 30 cms 40 inches = 100 cms	Foliage Colour with row in relevant pages that it has foliage of that colour in STAGE 4B 12 FOLIAGE COLOURS PER MONTH INDEX GALLERY or Background Colour nearest to middle-aged leaf colour from 212 foliage colours / followed by Soil Moisture:- Dry, Moist, Wet with link to Australia or New Zealand mail-order supplier with data for rows in STAGE 4C CULTIVATION, POSITION, USE GALLERY and STAGE 4D SHAPE, FORM INDEX GALLERY Pages	Plant Type is:- A for Aquatic Ann for Annual / Biennial Ba for Bamboo Bu for Bulb Cl for Climber Co for Conifer F for Fern G for Grass H for Herb P for Perennial Rh for Rhodo-dendron, Azalea, Camellia Ro for Rose Sh for Shrub So for Soft Fruit To for Top Fruit Tr for Tree V for Vegetable W for Wildflower followed by:- E for Evergreen, D for Deciduous, H for Herbaceous, Alpine for being an Alpine as well as being 1 of above Plant Type / Acid for Acidic, Alk for Alkaline, Any for AnySoil with links to STAGE 2 INFILL PLANT INDEX GALLERIES 1, 2, 3 and STAGE 3 ALL PLANTS INDEX GALLERIES 1, 2 pages
Arabis ferdinandi-coburgii 'Variegata' (Arabis procurrens 'Variegata', Spreading rock-cress 'Variegata', Goose Macedonian, Alpine Wall Cress) Supplier Supplier in Germany	Sprays of White flowers with brown seeds in Aug-Sep Full Sun Part Shade Photo Attracts butterflies to the garden.	Apr-Jun Supplier in Canada	4 x 4-20 (10 x 10-50) 2-5 years to reach ultimate height Mat-forming Flowers of 4 Petals, Star, Bunch Flower Photo Bedding	Starbucks Green edged in White, often pink-tinged in winter Dry Soil Ground Cover , Front of Border as edging, or cascade over walls. Great between flagstones and excellent in alpine troughs or mixed containers. Photo Supplier Remove any plain green shoots.	P E Alpine Well-drained Chalk, Sand, Clay Acid, Alk Tolerates poor, infertile soils and hot, dry conditions Use in crevices within rocks in Rock Garden, on gravel slopes and ledges Habitat in calcareous rocky and stony places - scree bed ALL PLANTS Page INFILL2 PLANTS Page
Arabis ferdinandi-coburgii 'Old Gold' (Goose Macedonian, Alpine Wall-cress, Rock Cress) Supplier Supplier from Poland Plants for Small Gardens Nursery has 17 collections, with planting tips page	Sprays of small White flowers with brown seeds in Aug-Sep Full Sun Part Shade Photo	Apr-Jun Supplier from USA Supplier from Canada growing and selling the midwest's largest selection of perennials, hostas and ornamental grasses. Separate rosettes or sow seed in containers in a cold frame in autumn - Pike Nurseries also has their own plant advice section.	3 x 12 (8 x 30) Mound-forming Flowers of 4 Petals, Star, Bunch Flower Photo Great between flagstones or as bedding. Plants easily divided after blooming or in early fall. Remove any plain green shoots. Rabbit resistant.	Starbucks Green edged in Yellow Dry Soil Ground Cover , Front of Border as edging. Excellent in alpine troughs with Sedums or mixed containers. Photo Supplier	P E Alpine Well-drained Sand Tolerates poor, infertile soils and hot, dry conditions Use in crevices within rocks in Rock Garden, on slopes and ledges - scree bed Habitat in calcareous rocky and stony places ALL PLANTS Page INFILL2 PLANTS Page
Arabis ferdinandi-coburgii (Goose Macedonian) Supplier	White flowers with brown seeds in Aug-Sep Full Sun Part Shade Photo	Apr-May Supplier	2.5-5 x (6-12 x ) Flowers of 4 Petals, Star, Bunch Flower Photo	Olive-Green with irregular creamy white edges Ground Cover Photo Supplier	P E Use in crevices within rocks in Rock Garden, on slopes and ledges with good drainage to keep from damping off Habitat in calcareous rocky and stony places ALL PLANTS Page INFILL2 PLANTS Page
Daboecia azorica (Irish Heath, St Dabeoc's heath, Connemara Bell Heather, Daboecia cantabrica subsp. azorica) Supplier in USA Supplier in Australia	Ruby Crimson (urn-shaped flowers) Full Sun, Part Shade Photos	Jun-Jul Excellent companion plants for rhododendrons and azaleas Good groundcover. Intermix with western gorse (Ulex gallii) and camellias. Other Ericaceous Companion Plants.	4-6 x 12 (10-15 x 30) Prostrate growth. Does best in a light, lime-free, well drained soil that never dries out, and they should have adequate moisture during the growing season.	Dark Green above, covered with white down beneath. In the Azores, this heath grows in very well drained volcanic gravels. Rock Garden, edges of evergreen shrub beds	Sh E Acid Sand with coir Peat ALL PLANTS Page INFILL PLANTS Page
Arabis pumila (Dwarf Rock Cress, Daisy-leaved Wall-Cress, Arabis bellidifolia)	Short white spray from 1 inch (2.5 cms) high upright stem per rosette Full Sun	April-May Rock garden, Alpine Trough, Pan	4-6 x 6 (10-15 x 15) Spreading Clump	Slightly rough rubbery dark green leaves in neat rosette Dry	P E Grows among rocks, crevices and moraines in well-drained alkaline chalky/sandy soil All2 Plants Index
Abies bracteata (Abies venusta, Bristle Cone Fir, Santa Lucia Fir) Because of its rare location and requirements, it is not normally grown in nurseries, except by Conifers Garden - We in Hungary undertake to send and fulfill your order anywhere in the world and we also take care of the necessary phytosanitary permits and the customs clearance.	Golden-brown Part Shade Deer resistant.	Flowers in late May; cones mature in late August-October. Autumn May be available from wholesale Stanley and Sons Nursery - They sell only true dwarf and miniature conifers for shipping in the USA and Canada to wholesale nurseries and garden centers.	960 x 240 (2400 x 600) Pyramid shape. Endangered species.	Dark Green, silvery green beneath Dry Soil A popular ornamental, it can be seen in many arboreta.	Co E On very rocky slopes and the moist bottoms of rocky canyons, which prevent fallen needles from staying under the tree. Succeeds on deep soil over chalk. All Plants Index
Abies balsamea 'Hudsonia' (Hudson fir, Hudsonia Balsam Fir) Photo of bun-shaped tree Supplier in UK Supplier in Russia Supplier in Australia Available in New Zealand Available in Sweden	Cherry-red tubular blossom Never bears cones Full Sun in morning, but best protected from the hot afternoon sun. Tolerates Part Shade. Attracts birds and deer resistant.	... Available from Grown in the UK	24-40 x 24-40 (60-100 x 60-100) Dwarf: 1 to 6 inches (2.5 - 15 cm) per year / 1 to 5 feet (0.3 - 1.5 m) after 10 years.	Grey-green needles, silvery beneath with typical balsam odour (See Fragrant Plants by Type - Trees) Moist Soil	Co E Rich Well-drained, Clay, Sand, Acid, Neutral. Mound-forming, Low maintenance , rock garden , scree garden, speciman, Container in Garden All Plants Index
Abies concolor 'Compacta' (Abies concolor 'Glauca Compacta', Compact White Fir) concolor means that both upper and lower needle surfaces are the same color. Supplier	Brown cones held upwards on top of the branches after several decades of growth. Full Sun , Part Shade	Autumn Thrives in areas with long winters followed by cool summer climates. Perfect for city gardens, scree gardens and small gardens. No pruning required.	72 x 80-120 (200 x 200-300) Ultimate height and spread 250 x 250 cms after 10-20 years Oval shape.	Steel-Blue needles. Glaucous particularly in the period of new growth, May-July Moist Soil Photo of tree	Co E Well-drained Clay, Sand, Acid, Neutral. Use as isolated lawn speciman tree , Low maintenance , large rock garden, Container in Garden All Plants Index

Ivydene Gardens Stage 4c - Cultivation Requirements, Position and Use Index Gallery: Position for Plant - Scree Bed
Botanical Plant Name with link to UK or European Union mail-order supplier for you to contact to buy this plant	Flower Colour Sun Aspect of Full Sun, Part Shade, Full Shade with link to external website for photo/data	Flowering Months with row in each month that it flowers in that colour in STAGE 4A 12 BLOOM COLOURS PER MONTH INDEX GALLERY/ with link to USA or Canada mail-order supplier	Height with Spacings or Width (W) in inches (cms) 1 inch = 2.5 cms 12 inches = 30 cms 40 inches = 100 cms	Foliage Colour with row in relevant pages that it has foliage of that colour in STAGE 4B 12 FOLIAGE COLOURS PER MONTH INDEX GALLERY or Background Colour nearest to middle-aged leaf colour from 212 foliage colours / followed by Soil Moisture:- Dry, Moist, Wet with link to Australia or New Zealand mail-order supplier with data for rows in STAGE 4C CULTIVATION, POSITION, USE GALLERY and STAGE 4D SHAPE, FORM INDEX GALLERY Pages	Plant Type is:- A for Aquatic Ann for Annual / Biennial Ba for Bamboo Bu for Bulb Cl for Climber Co for Conifer F for Fern G for Grass H for Herb P for Perennial Rh for Rhodo-dendron, Azalea, Camellia Ro for Rose Sh for Shrub So for Soft Fruit To for Top Fruit Tr for Tree V for Vegetable W for Wildflower followed by:- E for Evergreen, D for Deciduous, H for Herbaceous, Alpine for being an Alpine as well as being 1 of above Plant Type / Acid for Acidic, Alk for Alkaline, Any for AnySoil with links to STAGE 2 INFILL PLANT INDEX GALLERIES 1, 2, 3 and STAGE 3 ALL PLANTS INDEX GALLERIES 1, 2 pages
Alyssum serpyllifolium (Madwort, Alpine Alyssum, Thyme-leaved alison)	Soft-yellow Full Sun Fragrant	May-Jun Alpine Trough, Rock Garden, Gravel garden, Scree, Edging, Drought tolerant, Deer resistant	2-4 x 10-12 (5-10 x 25-30) Mound-forming. Tolerant of hot, sunny sites with poor well-drained soil	Silvery-grey foliage Dry No pruning required	P E Sand All2 Plants Index
Androsaces (Rock jasmine) There are about 110 species.	The Androsace Group was wound down in October 2011 , which was a specialist group of the Alpine Garden Society and aims to circulate information on the cultivation and naming of androsaces and on their ecology and status in the wild. It also aims to investigate the problems of preserving species and hybrids in cultivation and to take what steps it can to ensure such preservation. Publications dealing with Androsace from the Alpine Garden Society.		Mat-forming Pan and Alpine Trough soil mixture is 1 part each of coarse sand, leaf-mould, crushed slate and crock chips, or had tennis-court dressing (the red type) to 3 parts of good loam.	Use soak-up system watering in summer.	P E Moist but well-drained gritty Chalk, Sand All2 Plants Index Other Androsaces in Evergreen Perennials and Alpines
Androsace carnea (all varieties) (Pink Rock Jasmine)	5-petalled, cup-shaped, umbel atop the stem, yellow-eyed Pink Full Sun See Swedish Rock Garden photo.	May-Jun Suitable for Rock Garden, Scree, Alpine Pan (Pan and Alpine Trough soil mixture is 1 part each of coarse sand, leaf-mould, crushed slate and crock chips, or hard tennis-court dressing (the red type) to 3 parts of good loam.)	4 x 4 (10 x 10) Mat-forming	Dark Green Use soak-up system watering in summer.	P E Moist but well-drained gritty Chalk, Sand All2 Plants Index See 20 photos of this plant. Other Androsaces in Evergreen Perennials and Alpines
Androsace chamaejasme (Sweetflower rockjasmine)	5-petalled, yellow-eyed, single flower atop a stem, White aging to pink; occasionally Pink Full Sun, Part Shade	May-Jun Suitable for Rock Garden, Pan, Alpine Trough (Pan and Alpine Trough soil mixture is 1 part each of coarse sand, leaf-mould, crushed slate and crock chips, or hard tennis-court dressing (the red type) to 3 parts of good loam.), Scree	2 x 4 (6 x 10 spacing) Mat-forming	Dark Green Use soak-up system watering in summer.	P E Rocky and lime or Moist but well-drained gritty Chalk, Sand All2 Plants Index See 20 photos of this plant. Other Androsaces in Evergreen Perennials and Alpines
Androsace sempervivoides (sempervivum-leaved rock jasmine)	5-petalled Mauve-pink with yellow-eye that ages red in compact umbels on 1-3 inch (2.5-7.5 cm) stems Full Sun Juvenile flower with yellow eye Mature flower with red eye See Swedish Rock Garden photo.	May Suitable for Sharply drained sandy soil in vertical crevices in rock Garden, or a dry wall, Pan, Alpine Trough (Pan and Alpine Trough soil mixture is 1 part each of coarse sand, leaf-mould, crushed slate and crock chips, or hard tennis-court dressing (the red type) to 3 parts of good loam.), Scree	6 x 2 (15 x 5) Mat-form spreading to 8 inches (20 cms)	Deep-green with marginal hairs leaves on end of red stem Dry Use soak-up system watering in summer. See Swedish Rock Garden photo.	P E Moist but well-drained gritty Chalk, Sand All2 Plants Index Evergreen Perennial A-L See 5 photos of this plant. Other Androsaces in Evergreen Perennials and Alpines
Aquilegia pyrenaica (Pyrenees Columbine, Granny's Bonnet)	5-petalled, 5 sepals, deep purple- blue and Yellow stamens (5 pistils) with straight spurs, form clusters on the end of branched stems above foliage Part Shade UK Wildflower photos	May-Jun Rock garden. In the wild it is found on stony grass, scree or boulders, on limestone. Cut flower. Nectar/pollen rich encourages bees. Use in wildlife gardens in middle of border.	4-9 x 12-18 (10-23 x 30-45) The plant's seeds and roots are highly poisonous.	The leaves are blue-green, petiolate and trifoliate.	P H Hardy Perennial is a plant that lasts three seasons or more and that can withstand freezing temperatures Naturalised on rock-ledges. Moisture-retentive (required like alongside watercourses), well-drained, sandy soils enriched with leaf-mould. All2 Plants Index

Topic Table on this page has moved from this Table Column 1 position to Table Column 4 position.

STAGE 4C CULTIVATION, POSITION, USE GALLERY Cultivation Requirements of Plant
Outdoor / Garden Cultivation	1
Indoor / House Cultivation	1
Cool Greenhouse (and Alpine House) Cultivation with artificial heating in the Winter	1
Conservatory Cultivation with heating throughout the year	1
Stovehouse Cultivation with heating throughout the year for Tropical Plants	1

Sun Aspect
Full Sun	1
Part Shade	1
Full Shade	1

Soil Type
Any Soil	1
Chalky Soil	1
Clay Soil	1
Lime-Free Soil	1
Peaty Soil	1
Sandy Soil	1
Acid Soil	1
Alkaline Soil	1
Badly-drained Soil	1

Soil Moisture
Dry	1
Moist	1
Wet	1

Position for Plant
Back of Shady Border	1
Back of Shrub Border	1
Bedding	1
Bog Garden	1
Coastal Conditions / Seaside	1
Container in Garden	1
Front of Border	1
Ground Cover 0-24 inches (0-60 cms)	1
Ground Cover 24-72 inches (60-180 cms)	1
Ground Cover Over 72 inches (180 cms)	1
Hanging Basket	1
Hedge	1
Hedge - Thorny	1
Pollution Barrier	1
Pond	1
Pot in House, Greenhouse, Conservatory or Stovehouse	1
Raised Bed	1
Rest of Border	1
Rock Garden	1
Scree Bed	1
Speciman on Lawn	1
Sunny Border	1
Tree for Lawn	1
Tree/Shrub for Small Garden	1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11,12, 13,14, 15,16, uses of tree/ shrub
Wildflower	1
Windbreak	1
Woodland	1

Use of Plant
Pollen or nectar for Bees	1
Hosts to Butterflies	1
Encouraging birds / wildlife, providing food and shelter	1
Bee-Pollinated plants for Hay Fever Sufferers	1
Berries / Fruit	1
Dry Site in Full Sun	1
Dry Shade	1
Filtering noise	1
Flower Arrange-ments Growing Plants for the Church	1 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9,10, 11,12, 13,14
Fragrant Flower	1
Language of Flowers	1
Low maintenance	1
Moist Shade	1
Moist and swampy Sites	1
Nitrogen fixing plants	1
Not Fragrant Flower	1
Rabbit-Resistant	1
Speciman Plant	1
Thornless	1
Tolerant of Poor Soil	1

STAGE 4D SHAPE, FORM INDEX GALLERY Plant Foliage
Aromatic Foliage	1
Autumn Foliage	1
Finely Cut Leaves	1
Large Leaves	1
Yellow Variegated Foliage	1
White Variegated Foliage	1
Red / Purple Variegated Foliage	1
Silver, Grey and Glaucous Foliage	1
Sword-shaped Leaves	1

Flower Shape
Number of Flower Petals
Petal-less	1
1 Petal	1
2 Petals	1
3 Petals	1
4 Petals	1
5 Petals	1
Above 5	1

Flower Shape - Simple
Stars	1
Bowls	1
Cups and Saucers	1
Globes	1
Goblets and Chalices	1
Trumpets	1
Funnels	1
Bells	1
Thimbles	1
Urns	1
Salverform	1

Flower Shape - Elaborated
Tubes, Lips and Straps	1
Slippers, Spurs and Lockets	1
Hats, Hoods and Helmets	1
Standards, Wings and Keels	1
Discs and Florets	1
Pin-Cushions	1
Tufts	1
Cushion	1
Umbel	1
Buttons	1
Pompoms	1

Natural Arrangements
Bunches, Posies, Sprays	1
Columns, Spikes and Spires	1
Whorls, Tiers and Candelabra	1
Plumes and Tails	1
Chains and Tassels	1
Clouds, Garlands and Cascades	1
Spheres, Domes (Clusters), Plates and Drumsticks	1

STAGE 4D SHAPE, FORM INDEX GALLERY Shrub, Tree Shape
Columnar	1
Oval	1
Rounded or Spherical	1
Flattened Spherical	1
Narrow Conical / Narrow Pyramidal	1
Broad Conical / Broad Pyramidal	1
Ovoid / Egg-Shaped	1
Broad Ovoid	1
Narrow Vase-shaped / Inverted Ovoid	1
Fan-Shaped /Vase-Shaped	1
Broad Fan-Shaped / Broad Vase-Shaped	1
Narrow Weeping	1
Broad Weeping	1
Palm	1

Conifer Cone	1

Form
Arching	1
Climbing	1
Clump-Forming	1
Mat-Forming	1
Mound-Forming	1
Prostrate	1
Spreading	1
Stemless	1
Upright	1

Poisonous Plant	1

STAGE 1 GARDEN STYLE INDEX GALLERY Fragrant Plants adds the use of another of your 5 senses in your garden:- Sense of Fragrance from Roy Genders Fragrant Plants:- Trees and Shrubs with Scented Flowers 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 Trees and Shrubs with Scented Leaves 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 Trees and Shrubs with Aromatic Bark 1, 2, 3 Shrubs bearing Scented Flowers for an Acid Soil 1, 2, 3, 4 Shrubs bearing Scented Flowers for a Chalky or Limestone Soil 1, 2, 3, 4 Shrubs bearing Scented leaves for a Sandy Soil 1, 2, 3 Herbaceous Plants with Scented Flowers 1, 2, 3 Herbaceous Plants with Scented Leaves 1, 2, 3 Annual and Biennial Plants with Scented Flowers or Leaves 1, 2 Bulbs and Corms with Scented Flowers 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 Scented Plants of Climbing and Trailing Habit 1, 2, 3 Winter-flowering Plants with Scented Flowers 1, 2 Night-scented Flowering Plants 1, 2 Scented Aquatic Plants 1 Plants with Scented Fruits 1 Plants with Scented Roots 1, 2 Trees and Shrubs with Scented Wood 1 Trees and Shrubs with Scented Gums 1 Scented Cacti and Succulents 1 Plants bearing Flowers or Leaves of Unpleasant Smell 1, 2

STAGE 2 INFILL PLANT INDEX GALLERY 3 Fan-trained Shape From Rhododendrons, boxwood, azaleas, clematis, novelties, bay trees, hardy plants, evergreens : novelties bulbs, cannas novelties, palms, araucarias, ferns, vines, orchids, flowering shrubs, ornamental grasses and trees book, via Wikimedia Commons
Ramblers Scramblers & Twiners by Michael Jefferson-Brown (ISBN 0 - 7153 - 0942 - 0) describes how to choose, plant and nurture over 500 high-performance climbing plants and wall shrubs, so that more can be made of your garden if you think not just laterally on the ground but use the vertical support structures including the house as well. The Gardener's Illustrated Encyclopedia of Climbers & Wall Shrubs - A Guide to more than 2000 varieties including Roses, Clematis and Fruit Trees by Brian Davis. (ISBN 0-670-82929-3) provides the lists for 'Choosing the right Shrub or Climber' together with Average Height and Spread after 5 years, 10 years and 20 years.

STAGE 2 INFILL PLANT INDEX GALLERIES 1, 2, 3 Gardening with Alpines by Stanley B. Whitehead. Garden Book Club. Published in 1962. It provides most of the data about the Alpines. Plant Solutions 1000+ suggestions for every garden situation by Nigel Colborn ISBN 13:978 0 00 719312 7, provides many of the plants for the pages in these Galleries. Essential Annuals The 100 Best for Design and Cultivation. Text by Elizabeth Murray. Photography by Derek Fell. ISBN 0-517-66177-2, provides data about annuals. Indoor Bulb Growing by Edward Pearson. Published by Purnell & Sons, Ltd in 1953. It provides the data about Indoor Bulbs and Bulbs in Window-boxes. Colour All The Year In My Garden: A selection of choice varieties - annuals, biennials, perennials, bulbs, climbers and trees and shrubs - that will give a continuity of colour in the garden throughout the year. Edited by C.H. Middleton. Gardening Book from Ward, Lock & Co published in 1938, provides plant data for a calendar of plants in bloom throughout the year and for those in the smallest garden. The Book of Bulbs by S. Arnott, F.R.H.S. Printed by Turnbull & Spears, Edinburgh in 1901. This provides data about Hardy Bulbs, Half-Hardy Bulbs, Greenhouse and Stove Bulbs. Collins Guide to Bulbs by Patrick M. Synge. ISBN 0 00 214016-0 First Edition 1961, Second Edition 1971, Reprinted 1973. This provides data on bulbs for bedding, bulbs in the border, bulbs naturalised in grass, bulbs in the woodland garden, bulbs in the rock garden, bulbs in pans in the alpine house, bulbs in the greenhouse, bulbs in bowls and the bulb frame. Annuals & Biennials, the best annual and biennial plants and their uses in the garden by Gertrude Jekyll published in 1916 and republished by Forgotten Books in 2012 (Forgotten Books is a London-based book publisher specializing in the restoration of old books, both fiction and non-fiction. Today we have 372,702 books available to read online, download as ebooks, or purchase in print.). Cut Flowers All The Year from The New Illustrated Gardening Encyclopedia by Richard Sudell, printed before May 1935 for the plant names in each month, followed by details for culture and propagation. Mr. Middleton's Garden Book by Daily Express Publication, reprinted 1941 for the individual cultivar names with evergreen/ deciduous, flower colour, flower month and height.

STAGE 4D SHAPE, FORM INDEX GALLERY Tree and Shrubs in Garden Design - Trees and Shrubs suitable for Clay Soils (neutral to slightly acid) Trees and Shrubs suitable for Dry Acid Soils Trees and Shrubs suitable for Shallow Soil over Chalk Trees and Shrubs tolerant of both extreme Acidity and Alkalinity Trees and Shrubs suitable for Damp Sites Trees and Shrubs suitable for Industrial Areas Trees and Shrubs suitable for Cold Exposed Areas Trees and Shrubs suitable for Seaside Areas Shrubs suitable for Heavy Shade Shrubs and Climbers suitable for NORTH- and EAST-facing Walls Shrubs suitable for Ground Cover Trees of Pendulous Habit Trees and Shrubs of Upright or Fastigiate Habit Trees and Shrubs with Ornamental Bark or Twigs Trees and Shrubs with Bold Foliage Trees and Shrubs for Autumn Colour Trees and Shrubs with Red or Purple Foliage Trees and Shrubs with Golden or Yellow Foliage Trees and Shrubs with Grey or Silver Foliage Trees and Shrubs with Variegated Foliage Trees and Shrubs bearing Ornamental Fruit Trees and Shrubs with Fragrant or Scented Flowers Trees and Shrubs with Aromatic Foliage Flowering Trees and Shrubs for Every Month:- Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec

STAGE 4C
CULTIVATION REQUIREMENTS, POSITION AND USE INDEX GALLERY PAGES

Site Map

STAGE 1 GARDEN STYLE INDEX GALLERY PAGES Links to pages in Table alongside on the left with Garden Design Topic Pages

Website Structure Explanation and User Guidelines

Plant Type

STAGE 2 INFILL PLANT INDEX GALLERIES 1, 2, 3 with its Cultivation Requirements

Alpines for Rock Garden (See Rock Garden Plant Flowers)

Alpine Shrubs and Conifers

The Alpine Meadow
Page 1
Page 2
Page 3

The Alpine Border
1, 2

Alpine Plants for a Purpose

The Alpines that Dislike Lime 1, 2

Alpines and Walls
Dry Sunny Walls 1a, b
Tops of Walls 2a, b
Dry Shady and Conifers 3a, b

Alpines and
Paving
1, 2

Sink and Trough gardens
1, 2

Aquatic
(Water Plants) for

Anti-erosion River-bank

Marginal Plants (Bog Garden Plants)
1, 2

Oxy-genating Weeds

Water Lilies

Floating Plants

Water-side Plants
and Plants for Dry Margins next to a Pond
1, 2

Wildlife Pond Plants

Annual for

----------------

ANY PLANT TYPE for
Cut Flowers in
January 1, 2
February
March 1, 2
April
May 1, 2
June 1, 2
July 1, 2
August
September
October
November
December

Exposed Sites

Sheltered Sites with Green-house Annuals from 1916

Extra Poor Soil with Half-Hardy Annuals from 1916

Very Rich Soil with Biennials from 1916

Gap-filling in Mixed Borders with Hardy Annuals from 1916

Patio Con-tainers

Cut Flowers
1, 2, 3 Ever-lasting Flowers with Red Flowers from 1916

Attract-ing bene-ficial insects
1, 2

Scent / Fra-grance with Annuals for Cool or Shady Places from 1916

Low-allergen Gardens for Hay Fever Sufferers

Annual Plant Pairing Ideas and Colour Schemes with Annuals
1, 2

Low-Growing Annuals
1, 2

Medium-Growing Annuals

Tall-Growing Annuals with White Flowers from 1916

Black or Brown Flowers

Blue to Purple Flowers

Green Flowers with Annuals and Biennials from 1916

Red to Pink Flowers and Cut Flowers
Page
1, 2, 3

White Flowers
1, 2

Yellow or Orange Flowers
1, 2

Dec-orative Foliage

Moist Soil

Shade
1, 2

House-plants with Yellow Flowers from 1916

Edging Beds

Hanging Baskets

Vining Annuals

Bedding for

Spring Bedding

Summer Bedding

Autumn/ Winter Bedding

Bedding for Light Sandy Soil

Bedding for Acid Soil

Bedding for Chalky Soil

Bedding for Clay Soil

Attract-ive to Wildlife including Bees, Butterflies and Moths

Multi-Coloured Flowers

Aromatic Foliage or Scented Flowers

Bedding Plant Use

Flowers with 2 Petals

Flowers with 3 Petals

Flowers with
4 Petals

Flowers with 5 Petals

Flowers with 6 Petals

Flowers with more than 6 Petals

Use in Hanging Baskets

Flower Simple Shape

Shape of
Stars

Shape of
Bowls, Cups and Saucers

Shape of
Globes, Goblets and Chalices

Shape of
Trumpets and Funnels

Shape of
Bells, Thimbles and Urns

Use in Pots and Troughs

Flower Elabo-rated Shape

Shape of
Tubes, Lips and Lobes

Shape of
Slippers, Spurs and Lockets

Shape of
Hats, Hoods and Helmets

Use in
Screen-ing

Use in
Window Boxes

Shape of
Stand-ards, Wings and Keels

Shape of
Discs and Florets

Shape of
Pin-Cushions and Tufts

Shape of
Rosettes, Buttons and Pompons

Use in Bedding Out

Use in
Filling In

Biennial for

Cottage and Other Gardens
1, 2

Cut Flower with Biennials for Rock Work from 1916

Patio Con-tainers with Biennials for Pots in Green-house / Con-servatory

Bene-ficial to Wildlife with Purple and Blue Flowers from 1916

Scent with Biennials for Sunny Banks or Borders from 1916

Bulb for
--------------
Explan-ation Intro to Bulbs
--------------
725 Blue, White, Yellow, Unusual Colour, or Red-Purple-Pink flowering Bulbs in each month they flower.

Indoor Bulbs for
Dec-ember
January
February

Indoor Bulbs for
March
April
May

Indoor
Bulbs for
June
July
August

Indoor Bulbs for Sep-tember
October
November

Bulbs in Window-boxes
1, 2

Bulbs in the Border

Bulbs natural-ised in Grass

Any Plant Type (some grown in Cool Green-house) Bloom-ing in
Dec-Jan
Feb-Mar

Any Plant Type (some grown in Cool Green-house) Bloom-ing in
Apr-May
Jun-Aug 1, 2, 3, 4

Any Plant Type (some grown in Cool Green-house) Bloom-ing in
Sep-Oct
Nov-Dec

Any Plant Type Blooming in Smallest of Gardens

Bulbs for the Bulb Frame

Bulbs in the Wood-land Garden

Bulbs in the Rock Garden

Bulbs in Green-house or Stove

Achi-menes, Alocasias, Amorpho-phalluses, Aris-aemas, Arums, Begonias, Bomar-eas, Calad-iums

Clivias,
Colo-casias, Crinums, Cyclam-ens, Cyrt-anthuses, Euchar-ises, Urceo-charis, Eurycles

Freesias, Gloxinias, Hae-manthus, Hipp-eastrums

Lachen-alias, Nerines, Lycorises, Pen-cratiums, Hymen-ocallises, Richardias, Sprekelias, Tuberoses, Vallotas, Watsonias, Zephy-ranthes

Bulbs in Bowls

Bulbs in the Alpine House

Hardy Bulbs

Aconitum, Allium, Alstroe-meria, Anemone 1, 1a

Amaryllis, Antheri-cum, Antholy-zas, Apios, Arisaema, Arum, Aspho-deline,

Aspho-delus, Belam-canda, Bloom-eria, Brodiae, Bulbo-codium

Calo-chorti, Cyclo-bothras, Camassia, Col-chicum, Con-vallaria,
Forcing Lily of the Valley, Corydalis, Crinum, Crosmia, Mon-tbretia , Crocus

Cyclamen, Dicentra, Dierama, Eranthis, Eremurus, Ery-thrnium, Eucomis

Fritillaria, Funkia, Gal-anthus, Galtonia, Gladiolus, Hemero-callis

Hya-cinth, Hya-cinths in Pots,
Scilla, Pusch-kinia, Chion-odoxa, Chiono-scilla, Muscari

Iris,
Kniphofia, Lapey-rousia, Leucojum

Lilium,

Lilium in Pots, Malvastrum, Merendera, Milla, Narcissus, Narcissi in Pots

Orni-thogalum, Oxalis, Paeonia, Ran-unculus, Romulea, Sanguin-aria,
Stern-bergia,
Schi-zostylis, Teco-philaea, Trillium

Tulip,
Zephy-ranthus

Half-Hardy Bulbs

Acidan-thera, Albuca, Alstroe-meri, Andro-stephium, Bassers, Boussing-aultias, Bravoas, Cypellas, Dahlias, Galaxis,
Geis-sorhizas, Hesper-anthas

Gladioli, Ixias,
Sparaxises, Babianas, Morphixias, Tritonias

Ixio-lirions, Moraeas, Orni-thogal-ums, Oxalises, Phaedra-nassas,
Pan-cratiums, Tigridias, Zephyr-anthes, Cooper-ias

Bulbs for Bedding

Plant each Bedding Plant with a Ground, Edging or Dot Plant for
Spring
1, 2
or
Summer
1, 2

Climber 3 sector Vertical Plant System with

Any Plant Type flowers in
Jan,
Feb,
Mar,
Apr,
May 1, 2
Jun,
Jul,
Aug,
Sep,
Oct,
Nov,
Dec

----------
Choosing the right Plant

1a.
The Base -
Base of Wall Plants

1b.
Annuals

1c.
Herbs and Vege-tables

1d.
Cut
flowers, Cut Foliage

1e.
Scented flower or foliage

1f.
Foliage use only

2a. 1,2,3,4
The Prime - Wall Shrubs

2b.
Fruit trees

3a.
The Higher Reaches -
House-wall Ramblers

3b. 1,2
Non-House-Wall - Climbing Twiners

3c.
Non-House-Wall - Self-clinging Climbers

Raised
Bed for Wheel-chair Users

Plants for Wildlife-Use as well

Fastest Covering

Least prot-ruding growth when fan-trained

1, 2
Evergreen

Use as
Hedge

Exposed Positions

Use as Ground-cover

1,2
Ornam-ental Fruit

Scented Flowers

1, 2
Autumn Foliage Colour

Winter Bark

Winter and Early Spring Flowers

Summer Colour or Shape of Foliage

Edible Fruit

Needs Conserv-atory or Green-house

Large
Pots and Con-tainers
1, 2

Cut Flowers

Attractive to Bees

Climber - Simple Flower Shape

anthericumcfloliliagofoord1a
Stars

geraniumflocineremuballerina1a1
Bowls, Cups and Saucers

berberisdarwiniiflower10h3a14k1a1a1a1a1a1a
Globes, Goblets and Chalices

acantholinumcflop99glumaceumfoord
Trumpets and Funnels

phloxflotsubulatatemiskaming
Salver-form

berberisdarwiniiflower10h3a14q1a1a1a1a1a
Bells, Thimbles and Urns

Climber - Elabo-rated Flower Shape

prunellaflotgrandiflora
Tubes, Lips and Straps

aquilegiacfloformosafoord
Slippers, Spurs and Lockets

berberisdarwiniiflower10h3a14u1a1a1a1a1a1
Hats, Hoods and Helmets

berberisdarwiniiflower10h3a14v1a1a1a1a1a1
Stand-ards, Wings and Keels

brachyscomecflorigidulakevock
Disks and Florets

andosacecforyargongensiskevock
Pin-cushions, Tufts, Petal-less and Cushions

armeriaflomaritimakevock
Umbels, Buttons and Pompoms

STAGE 4A 12 BLOOM COLOURS PER MONTH INDEX GALLERY
Jan	Feb	Mar	Apr	May	Jun	Jul	Aug	Sep	Oct	Nov	Dec
1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1 Blue	1	1	1
1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1 Mauve	1	1	1
1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1 Purple	1	1	1
1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1 Brown	1	1	1
1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1 Cream	1	1	1
1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1 Green	1	1	1
1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1 Orange	1	1	1
1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1 Pink	1	1	1
1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1 Red	1	1	1
1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1 White	1	1	1
1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1 Yellow	1	1	1
1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1 Un- usual	1 Multi-Colou-red	1 Each Flower Diff-	1 erent Colour

STAGE 4B 12 FOLIAGE COLOURS PER MONTH INDEX GALLERY Deciduous Shrubs or Trees, Herbaceous Perennials or Bulbs- if that changes from the main colour for instance to a different autumn colour, then it will be in this column and the relevant colour for those months of Win (Winter), Spr (Spring), Sum (Summer) or Aut (Autumn) group as well. Evergreen Shrubs or Trees, Evergreen Perennials - if that changes from the main colour for instance to a different autumn colour, then it will be in this column and the relevant colour for those months of Win (Winter), Spr (Spring), Sum (Summer) or Aut (Autumn) group as well.
Jan Win	Feb Win	Mar Spr	Apr Spr	May Spr	Jun Sum	Jul Sum	Aug Sum	Sep Aut	Oct Aut	Nov Aut	Dec Win	Decid Herba	Ever-green
1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1 Blue	1	1	1	1	1
1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1 Mauve	1	1	1	1	1
1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1 Purple	1	1	1	1	1
1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1 Black	1	1	1	1	1
1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1 Bronze	1	1	1	1	1
1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1 Green	1	1	1	1	1
1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1 Orange	1	1	1	1	1
1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1 Pink	1	1	1	1	1
1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1 Red	1	1	1	1	1
1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1 Grey	1 White	1 Silver	1	1	1	1
1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1 Yellow	1	1	1	1	1
1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1 Un- usual	1 Varie-gated	1	1	1	1

Ivydene Horticultural Services logo with I design, construct and maintain private gardens. I also advise and teach you in your own garden. 01634 389677

Site design and content copyright ©March 2016.
Top menus altered June 2018.
Chris Garnons-Williams.

DISCLAIMER: Links to external sites are provided as a courtesy to visitors. Ivydene Horticultural Services are not responsible for the content and/or quality of external web sites linked from this site.

Ivydene
Horticultural
Services

Scented Flora of the World by Roy Genders - was first published in 1977 and this paperback edition was published on 1 August 1994 ISBN 0 7090 5440 8:-
This comprehensive book looks at scented flowers and leaves of plants from all over the world. The work has been prepared to the standards of the Index Kewensis, and is filled with the most interesting facts about the scented flora of the world.

I am using the above book from someone who took 30 years to compile it from notes made of his detailed observations of growing plants in preference to
The RHS Companion to Scented Plants Hardcover – 16 Oct 2014 by Stephen Lacey (Author), Andrew Lawson (Photographer) ISBN 978-0-7112-3574-8 even though this is the only major reference work on scent and scented plants which is endorsed by the Royal Horticultural Society. See reasons for stopping infilling of previous Sense of Fragrance section on 28/07/2016 at end of Sense of Fragrance from Stephen Lacey Page.

The Propagation of Alpines by Lawrence D. Hills. Published in 1950 by Faber and Faber Limited describes every method of propagation for 2,500 species. Unlike modern books published since 1980, this one states exactly what to do and is precisely what you require if you want to increase your alpines.

Topic
Plants detailed in this website by
Botanical Name
A, B, C, D, E, F, G,
H, I, J, K, L, M, N,
O, P, Q, R, S, T, U,
V, W, X, Y, Z ,
Bulb
A1, 2, 3, B, C1, 2,
D, E, F, G, Glad,
H, I, J, K, L1, 2,
M, N, O, P, Q, R,
S, T, U, V, W, XYZ ,
Evergreen Perennial
A, B, C, D, E, F, G,
H, I, J, K, L, M, N,
O, P, Q, R, S, T, U,
V, W, X, Y, Z ,
Herbaceous Perennial
A1, 2, B, C, D, E, F,
G, H, I, J, K, L, M,
N, O, P1, 2, Q, R,
S, T, U, V, W, XYZ,
Diascia Photo Album,
UK Peony Index
Wildflower
Botanical Names,
Common Names ,
will be compared in:- Flower colour/month
Evergreen Perennial,
Flower shape Wildflower Flower Shape and
Plant use
Evergreen Perennial Flower Shape,
Bee plants for hay-fever sufferers
Bee-Pollinated Index
Butterfly
Egg, Caterpillar, Chrysalis, Butterfly Usage of Plants.
Chalk
A, B, C, D, E, F, G,
H, I, J, K, L, M, N,
O, P, QR, S, T, UV,
WXYZ
Companion Planting
A, B, C, D, E, F, G,
H, I, J, K, L, M, N,
O, P, Q, R , S, T,
U ,V, W, X, Y, Z,
Pest Control using Plants
Fern Fern
1000 Ground Cover A, B, C, D, E, F, G,
H, I, J, K, L, M, N,
O, P, Q, R, S, T, U,
V, W, XYZ ,
Rock Garden and Alpine Flowers
A, B, C, D, E, F, G,
H, I, J, K, L, M,
NO, PQ, R, S, T,
UVWXYZ
Rose Rose Use
These 5 have Page links in rows below
Bulbs from the Infill Galleries (next row), Camera Photos,
Plant Colour Wheel Uses,
Sense of Fragrance, Wild Flower

Case Studies
...Drive Foundations
Ryegrass and turf kills plants within Roadstone and in Topsoil due to it starving and dehydrating them.
CEDAdrive creates stable drive surface and drains rain into your ground, rather than onto the public road.
8 problems caused by building house on clay or with house-wall attached to clay.
Pre-building work on polluted soil.

Companion Planting
to provide a Companion Plant to aid your selected plant or deter its pests

Garden
Construction
with ground drains

Garden Design
...How to Use the Colour Wheel Concepts for Selection of Flowers, Foliage and Flower Shape
...RHS Mixed
Borders
......Bedding Plants
......Her Perennials
......Other Plants
......Camera photos of Plant supports
Garden
Maintenance
Glossary with a tomato teaching cauliflowers
Home
Library of over 1000 books
Offbeat Glossary with DuLally Bird in its flower clock.

Plants
...in Chalk
(Alkaline) Soil
......A-F1, A-F2,
......A-F3, G-L, M-R,
......M-R Roses, S-Z
...in Heavy
Clay Soil
......A-F, G-L, M-R,
......S-Z
...in Lime-Free
(Acid) Soil
......A-F, G-L, M-R,
......S-Z
...in Light
Sand Soil
......A-F, G-L, M-R,
......S-Z.
...Poisonous Plants.
...Extra Plant Pages
with its 6 Plant Selection Levels

Soil
...Interaction between 2 Quartz Sand Grains to make soil
...How roots of plants are in control in the soil
...Without replacing Soil Nutrients, the soil will break up to only clay, sand or silt
...Subsidence caused by water in Clay
...Use water ring for trees/shrubs for first 2 years.

Tool Shed with 3 kneeling pads
Useful Data with benefits of Seaweed

Topic -
Plant Photo Galleries
If the plant type below has flowers, then the first gallery will include the flower thumbnail in each month of 1 of 6 colour comparison pages of each plant in its subsidiary galleries, as a low-level Plant Selection Process
Aquatic
Bamboo
Bedding
...by Flower Shape

Bulb
...Allium/ Anemone
...Autumn
...Colchicum/ Crocus
...Dahlia
...Gladiolus with its 40 Flower Colours
......European A-E
......European F-M
......European N-Z
......European Non-classified
......American A,
B, C, D, E, F, G,
H, I, J, K, L, M,
N, O, P, Q, R, S,
T, U, V, W, XYZ
......American Non-classified
......Australia - empty
......India
......Lithuania
...Hippeastrum/ Lily
...Late Summer
...Narcissus
...Spring
...Tulip
...Winter
...Each of the above ...Bulb Galleries has its own set of Flower Colour Pages
...Flower Shape
...Bulb Form
...Bulb Use
...Bulb in Soil

Further details on bulbs from the Infill Galleries:-
Hardy Bulbs
...Aconitum
...Allium
...Alstroemeria
...Anemone
...Amaryllis
...Anthericum
...Antholyzas
...Apios
...Arisaema
...Arum
...Asphodeline
...Asphodelus
...Belamcanda
...Bloomeria
...Brodiaea
...Bulbocodium
...Calochorti
...Cyclobothrias
...Camassia
...Colchicum
...Convallaria  ...Forcing Lily of the Valley
...Corydalis
...Crinum
...Crosmia
...Montbretia
...Crocus
...Cyclamen
...Dicentra
...Dierama
...Eranthis
...Eremurus
...Erythrnium
...Eucomis
...Fritillaria
...Funkia
...Galanthus
...Galtonia
...Gladiolus
...Hemerocallis
...Hyacinth
...Hyacinths in Pots
...Scilla
...Puschkinia
...Chionodoxa
...Chionoscilla
...Muscari
...Iris
...Kniphofia
...Lapeyrousia
...Leucojum
...Lilium
...Lilium in Pots
...Malvastrum
...Merendera
...Milla
...Narcissus
...Narcissi in Pots
...Ornithogalum
...Oxalis
...Paeonia
...Ranunculus
...Romulea
...Sanguinaria
...Sternbergia
...Schizostylis
...Tecophilaea
...Trillium
...Tulip
...Zephyranthus
Half-Hardy Bulbs
...Acidanthera
...Albuca
...Alstroemeri
...Andro-stephium
...Bassers
...Boussing-aultias
...Bravoas
...Cypellas
...Dahlias
...Galaxis,
...Geissorhizas
...Hesperanthas
...Gladioli
...Ixias
...Sparaxises
...Babianas
...Morphixias
...Tritonias
...Ixiolirions
...Moraeas
...Ornithogalums
...Oxalises
...Phaedra-nassas
...Pancratiums
...Tigridias
...Zephyranthes
...Cooperias
Uses of Bulbs:-
...for Bedding
...in Windowboxes
...in Border
...naturalized in Grass
...in Bulb Frame
...in Woodland Garden
...in Rock Garden
...in Bowls
...in Alpine House
...Bulbs in Green-house or Stove:-
...Achimenes
...Alocasias
...Amorpho-phalluses
...Arisaemas
...Arums
...Begonias
...Bomareas
...Caladiums
...Clivias
...Colocasias
...Crinums
...Cyclamens
...Cyrtanthuses
...Eucharises
...Urceocharis
...Eurycles
...Freesias
...Gloxinias
...Haemanthus
...Hippeastrums
...Lachenalias
...Nerines
...Lycorises
...Pencratiums
...Hymenocallises
...Richardias
...Sprekelias
...Tuberoses
...Vallotas
...Watsonias
...Zephyranthes
...Plant Bedding in
......Spring
......Summer
...Bulb houseplants flowering during:-
......January
......February
......March
......April
......May
......June
......July
......August
......September
......October
......November
......December
...Bulbs and other types of plant flowering during:-
......Dec-Jan
......Feb-Mar
......Apr-May
......Jun-Aug
......Sep-Oct
......Nov-Dec
...Selection of the smaller and choicer plants for the Smallest of Gardens with plant flowering during the same 6 periods as in the previous selection

Climber in
3 Sector Vertical Plant System
...Clematis
...Climbers
Conifer
Deciduous Shrub
...Shrubs - Decid
Deciduous Tree
...Trees - Decid
Evergreen Perennial
...P-Evergreen A-L
...P-Evergreen M-Z
...Flower Shape
Evergreen Shrub
...Shrubs - Evergreen
...Heather Shrub
...Heather Index
......Andromeda
......Bruckenthalia
......Calluna
......Daboecia
......Erica: Carnea
......Erica: Cinerea
......Erica: Others
Evergreen Tree
...Trees - Evergreen
Fern
Grass
Hedging
Herbaceous
Perennial
...P -Herbaceous
...Peony
...Flower Shape
...RHS Wisley
......Mixed Border
......Other Borders
Herb
Odds and Sods
Rhododendron

Rose
...RHS Wisley A-F
...RHS Wisley G-R
...RHS Wisley S-Z
...Rose Use - page links in row 6. Rose, RHS Wisley and Other Roses rose indices on each Rose Use page
...Other Roses A-F
...Other Roses G-R
...Other Roses S-Z
Pruning Methods
Photo Index R 1, 2, 3
Peter Beales Roses
RV Roger Roses

Soft Fruit
Top Fruit
...Apple
...Cherry
...Pear
Vegetable
Wild Flower and
Butterfly page links are in next row

Topic -
UK Butterfly:-
...Egg, Caterpillar, Chrysalis and Butterfly Usage
of Plants.
...Plant Usage by
Egg, Caterpillar, Chrysalis and Butterfly.

Both native wildflowers and cultivated plants, with these
...Flower Shape,
...Uses in USA,
...Uses in UK and
...Flo Cols / month are used by Butter-flies native in UK

Wild Flower with its wildflower flower colour page, space,
data page(s).
...Blue Site Map.
Scented Flower, Foliage, Root.
Story of their Common Names.
Use of Plant with Flowers.
Use for Non-Flowering Plants.
Edible Plant Parts.
Flower Legend.
Flowering plants of Chalk and
Limestone 1, 2.
Flowering plants of Acid Soil 1.
...Brown Botanical Names.
Food for
Butterfly/Moth.
...Cream Common Names.
Coastal and Dunes.
Sandy Shores and Dunes.
...Green Broad-leaved Woods.
...Mauve Grassland - Acid, Neutral, Chalk.
...Multi-Cols Heaths and Moors.
...Orange Hedge-rows and Verges.
...Pink A-G Lakes, Canals and Rivers.
...Pink H-Z Marshes, Fens, Bogs.
...Purple Old Buildings and Walls.
...Red Pinewoods.
...White A-D
Saltmarshes.
Shingle Beaches, Rocks and Cliff Tops.
...White E-P Other.
...White Q-Z Number of Petals.
...Yellow A-G
Pollinator.
...Yellow H-Z
Poisonous Parts.
...Shrub/Tree River Banks and other Freshwater Margins. and together with cultivated plants in
Colour Wheel.

You know its
name:-
a-h, i-p, q-z,
Botanical Names, or Common Names,
habitat:-
on Acid Soil,
on Calcareous
(Chalk) Soil,
on Marine Soil,
on Neutral Soil,
is a Fern,
is a Grass,
is a Rush,
is a Sedge, or
is Poisonous.

Each plant in each WILD FLOWER FAMILY PAGE will have a link to:-
1) its created Plant Description Page in its Common Name column, then external sites:-
2) to purchase the plant or seed in its Botanical Name column,
3) to see photos in its Flowering Months column and
4) to read habitat details in its Habitat Column.
Adder's Tongue
Amaranth
Arrow-Grass
Arum
Balsam
Bamboo
Barberry
Bedstraw
Beech
Bellflower
Bindweed
Birch
Birds-Nest
Birthwort
Bogbean
Bog Myrtle
Borage
Box
Broomrape
Buckthorn
Buddleia
Bur-reed
Buttercup
Butterwort
Cornel (Dogwood)
Crowberry
Crucifer (Cabbage/Mustard) 1
Crucifer (Cabbage/Mustard) 2
Cypress
Daffodil
Daisy
Daisy Cudweeds
Daisy Chamomiles
Daisy Thistle
Daisy Catsears Daisy Hawkweeds
Daisy Hawksbeards
Daphne
Diapensia
Dock Bistorts
Dock Sorrels
Clubmoss
Duckweed
Eel-Grass
Elm
Filmy Fern
Horsetail
Polypody
Quillwort
Royal Fern
Figwort - Mulleins
Figwort - Speedwells
Flax
Flowering-Rush
Frog-bit
Fumitory
Gentian
Geranium
Glassworts
Gooseberry
Goosefoot
Grass 1
Grass 2
Grass 3
Grass Soft
Bromes 1
Grass Soft
Bromes 2
Grass Soft
Bromes 3
Hazel
Heath
Hemp
Herb-Paris
Holly
Honeysuckle
Horned-Pondweed
Hornwort
Iris
Ivy
Jacobs Ladder
Lily
Lily Garlic
Lime
Lobelia
Loosestrife
Mallow
Maple
Mares-tail
Marsh Pennywort
Melon (Gourd/Cucumber)
Mesem-bryanthemum
Mignonette
Milkwort
Mistletoe
Moschatel
Naiad
Nettle
Nightshade
Oleaster
Olive
Orchid 1
Orchid 2
Orchid 3
Orchid 4
Parnassus-Grass
Peaflower
Peaflower
Clover 1
Peaflower
Clover 2
Peaflower
Clover 3
Peaflower Vetches/Peas
Peony
Periwinkle
Pillwort
Pine
Pink 1
Pink 2
Pipewort
Pitcher-Plant
Plantain
Pondweed
Poppy
Primrose
Purslane
Rannock Rush
Reedmace
Rockrose
Rose 1
Rose 2
Rose 3
Rose 4
Rush
Rush Woodrushes
Saint Johns Wort
Saltmarsh Grasses
Sandalwood
Saxifrage
Seaheath
Sea Lavender
Sedge Rush-like
Sedges Carex 1
Sedges Carex 2
Sedges Carex 3
Sedges Carex 4
Spindle-Tree
Spurge
Stonecrop
Sundew
Tamarisk
Tassel Pondweed
Teasel
Thyme 1
Thyme 2
Umbellifer 1
Umbellifer 2
Valerian
Verbena
Violet
Water Fern
Waterlily
Water Milfoil
Water Plantain
W ater Starwort
Waterwort
Willow
Willow-Herb
Wintergreen
Wood-Sorrel
Yam
Yew

Topic -
The following is a complete hierarchical Plant Selection Process
dependent on the Garden Style chosen
Garden Style
...Infill Plants
...12 Bloom Colours per Month Index
...12 Foliage Colours per Month Index
...All Plants Index
...Cultivation, Position, Use Index
...Shape, Form
Index

Topic -
Flower/Foliage Colour Wheel Galleries with number of colours as a high-level Plant Selection Process

All Flowers 53 with
...Use of Plant and
Flower Shape - page links in bottom row

All Foliage 53
instead of redundant
...(All Foliage 212)

All Flowers
per Month 12

Bee instead of wind pollinated plants for hay-fever sufferers
All Bee-Pollinated Flowers
per Month 12
...Index

Rock Garden and Alpine Flowers
Rock Plant Flowers 53 INDEX
A, B, C, D, E, F,
G, H, I, J, K, L,
M, NO, PQ, R, S,
T, UVWXYZ
...Rock Plant Photos

Flower Colour Wheel without photos, but with links to photos
12 Bloom Colours
per Month Index
...All Plants Index

Topic -
Use of Plant in your Plant Selection Process

Plant Colour Wheel Uses
with
1. Perfect general use soil is composed of 8.3% lime, 16.6% humus, 25% clay and 50% sand, and
2. Why you are continually losing the SOIL STRUCTURE so your soil - will revert to clay, chalk, sand or silt.
Uses of Plant and Flower Shape:-
...Foliage Only
...Other than Green Foliage
...Trees in Lawn
...Trees in Small Gardens
...Wildflower Garden
...Attract Bird
...Attract Butterfly
1, 2
...Climber on House Wall
...Climber not on House Wall
...Climber in Tree
...Rabbit-Resistant
...Woodland
...Pollution Barrier
...Part Shade
...Full Shade
...Single Flower provides Pollen for Bees
1, 2, 3
...Ground-Cover
<60cm
60-180cm
>180cm
...Hedge
...Wind-swept
...Covering Banks
...Patio Pot
...Edging Borders
...Back of Border
...Poisonous
...Adjacent to Water
...Bog Garden
...Tolerant of Poor Soil
...Winter-Flowering
...Fragrant
...Not Fragrant
...Exhibition
...Standard Plant is 'Ball on Stick'
...Upright Branches or Sword-shaped leaves
...Plant to Prevent Entry to Human or Animal
...Coastal Conditions
...Tolerant on North-facing Wall
...Cut Flower
...Potted Veg Outdoors
...Potted Veg Indoors
...Thornless
...Raised Bed Outdoors Veg
...Grow in Alkaline Soil A-F, G-L, M-R,
S-Z
...Grow in Acidic Soil
...Grow in Any Soil
...Grow in Rock Garden
...Grow Bulbs Indoors

Uses of Bedding
...Bedding Out
...Filling In
...Screen-ing
...Pots and Troughs
...Window Boxes
...Hanging Baskets
...Spring Bedding
...Summer Bedding
...Winter Bedding
...Foliage instead of Flower
...Coleus Bedding Photos for use in Public Domain 1

Uses of Bulb
...Other than Only Green Foliage
...Bedding or Mass Planting
...Ground-Cover
...Cut-Flower
...Tolerant of Shade
...In Woodland Areas
...Under-plant
...Tolerant of Poor Soil
...Covering Banks
...In Water
...Beside Stream or Water Garden
...Coastal Conditions
...Edging Borders
...Back of Border or Back-ground Plant
...Fragrant Flowers
...Not Fragrant Flowers
...Indoor
House-plant
...Grow in a Patio Pot
...Grow in an Alpine Trough
...Grow in an Alpine House
...Grow in Rock Garden
...Speciman Plant
...Into Native Plant Garden
...Naturalize in Grass
...Grow in Hanging Basket
...Grow in Window-box
...Grow in Green-house
...Grow in Scree
...Naturalized Plant Area
...Grow in Cottage Garden
...Attracts Butterflies
...Attracts Bees
...Resistant to Wildlife
...Bulb in Soil:-
......Chalk
......Clay
......Sand
......Lime-Free (Acid)
......Peat

Uses of Rose
...Bedding
...Climber /Pillar
...Cut-Flower
...Exhibition, Speciman
...Ground-Cover
...Grow In A Container
...Hedge
...Climber in Tree
...Woodland
...Edging Borders
...Tolerant of Poor Soil
...Tolerant of Shade
...Back of Border
...Adjacent to Water
...Page for rose use as ARCH ROSE, PERGOLA ROSE, COASTAL CONDITIONS ROSE, WALL ROSE, STANDARD ROSE, COVERING BANKS or THORNLESS ROSES.
...FRAGRANT ROSES
...NOT FRAGRANT ROSES

Topic -
Camera Photo Galleries showing all 4000 x 3000 pixels of each photo on your screen that you can then click and drag it to your desktop as part of a Plant Selection Process:-

RHS Garden at Wisley
Plant Supports -
When supporting plants in a bed, it is found that not only do those plants grow upwards, but also they expand their roots and footpad sideways each year. Pages
1, 2, 3, 8, 11,
12, 13,
Plants 4, 7, 10,
Bedding Plants 5,
Plant Supports for Unknown Plants 5,
Clematis Climbers 6,
the RHS does not appear to either follow it's own pruning advice or advice from The Pruning of Trees, Shrubs and Conifers by George E. Brown.
ISBN 0-571-11084-3 with the plants in Pages 1-7 of this folder. You can see from looking at both these resources as to whether the pruning carried out on the remainder of the plants in Pages 7-15 was correct.
Narcissus (Daffodil) 9,
Phlox Plant Supports 14, 15

Coleus Bedding Foliage Trial - Pages
1, 2, 3, 4, 5,
6, 7, 8, 9, 10,
11, 12, 13, 14, 15,
16, 17, 18, 19, 20,
21, 22, 23, 24, 25,
26, 27, 28, 29, 30,
31, 32, Index

National Trust Garden at Sissinghurst Castle
Plant Supports -
Pages for Gallery 1
with Plant Supports
1, 5, 10
Plants
2, 3, 4, 6, 7, 8, 9,
11, 12
Recommended Rose Pruning Methods 13
Pages for Gallery 2
with Plant Supports
2,
Plants 1, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7

Dry Garden of
RHS Garden at
Hyde Hall
Plants - Pages
without Plant Supports
Plants 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9

Nursery of
Peter Beales Roses
Display Garden
Roses Pages
1, 2, 3, 4, 5,
6, 7, 8, 9, 10,
11, 12, 13

Nursery of
RV Roger
Roses - Pages
A1,A2,A3,A4,A5,
A6,A7,A8,A9,A10,
A11,A12,A13,A14,
B15,
B16,B17,B18,B19,
B20,
B21,B22,B23,B24,
B25,
B26,B27,B28,B29,
B30,
C31,C32,C33,C34,
C35,
C36,C37,C38,C39,
C40,
C41,CD2,D43,D44,
D45,
D46,D47,D48,D49,
E50,
E51,E52,F53,F54,
F55,
F56,F57,G58,G59,
H60,
H61,I62,K63,L64,
M65,
M66,N67,P68,P69,
P70,
R71,R72,S73,S74,
T75,
V76,Z77, 78,

Damage by Plants in Chilham Village - Pages
1, 2, 3, 4

Pavements of Funchal, Madeira
Damage to Trees - Pages
1, 2, 3, 4, 5,
6, 7, 8, 9, 10,
11, 12, 13
for trees 1-54,
14, 15,
16, 17, 18, 19, 20,
21, 22, 23, 24, 25,
for trees 55-95,
26, 27, 28, 29, 30,
31, 32, 33, 34, 35,
36, 37,
for trees 95-133,
38, 39, 40,
41, 42, 43, 44, 45,
for trees 133-166

Chris Garnons-Williams
Work Done - Pages
1, 2, 3, 4, 5,
6, 7, 8, 9, 10,
11, 12, 13

Identity of Plants
Label Problems - Pages
1, 2, 3, 4, 5,
6, 7, 8, 9, 10,
11

Ron and Christine Foord - 1036 photos only inserted so far - Garden Flowers - Start Page of each Gallery
AB1 ,AN14,BA27,
CH40,CR52,DR63,
FR74,GE85,HE96,

Plant with Photo Index of Ivydene Gardens - 1187
A 1, 2, Photos - 43
B 1, Photos - 13
C 1, Photos - 35
D 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7,
Photos - 411
with Plants causing damage to buildings in Chilham Village and Damage to Trees in Pavements of Funchal
E 1, Photos - 21
F 1, Photos - 1
G 1, Photos - 5
H 1, Photos - 21
I 1, Photos - 8
J 1, Photos - 1
K 1, Photos - 1
L 1, Photos - 85
with Label Problems
M 1, Photos - 9
N 1, Photos - 12
O 1, Photos - 5
P 1, Photos - 54
Q 1, Photos -
R 1, 2, 3,
Photos - 229
S 1, Photos - 111
T 1, Photos - 13
U 1, Photos - 5
V 1, Photos - 4
W 1, Photos - 100
with Work Done by Chris Garnons-Williams
X 1 Photos -
Y 1, Photos -
Z 1 Photos -
Articles/Items in Ivydene Gardens - 88
Flower Colour, Num of Petals, Shape and
Plant Use of:-
Rock Garden
within linked page

Topic -
Fragrant Plants as a Plant Selection Process for your sense of smell:-
Sense of Fragrance from Roy Genders

Fragrant Plants:-
Trees and Shrubs with Scented Flowers
1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6
Shrubs bearing Scented Flowers for an Acid Soil
1, 2, 3, 4
Shrubs bearing Scented Flowers for a
Chalky or Limestone Soil
1, 2, 3, 4
Shrubs bearing Scented leaves for a
Sandy Soil
1, 2, 3
Herbaceous Plants with Scented Flowers
1, 2, 3
Annual and Biennial Plants with Scented Flowers or Leaves
1, 2
Bulbs and Corms with Scented Flowers
1, 2, 3, 4, 5
Scented Plants of Climbing and Trailing Habit
1, 2, 3
Winter-flowering Plants with Scented Flowers
1, 2
Night-scented Flowering Plants
1, 2

Topic -
Website User Guidelines

My Gas Service Engineer found Flow and Return pipes incorrectly positioned on gas boilers and customers had refused to have positioning corrected in 2020.

This table and the next one copied from
Ivydene Gardens Photos of Rock Garden Plants Suitable for Small Gardens:
Site Map for Rock Garden Plants who do not have Plant Description Pages in this Website

Click on 1 of 48 Colours or 4 colours of Black in
Rock Plant Colour Wheel - Flowers Link Map
in any page in this gallery to get that Colour Page.

I am taking photos of rock garden plants suitable for small gardens and if they do not have their own Plant Description Page in this website, then each photo of each plant will be located at the bottom of the relevant 1 of 52 Rockgarden Flower Colour Wheel pages. Usually a link in *** to that page will be included in the Name field of the respective Index Page.

If there is more than 1 photo for that plant that I wish to display then, this Gallery will have photos of that plant in its page.
This will be linked to from the respective Rock Garden Flower Colour Wheel Page and you can return to that Page by clicking on "Return to Rock Garden Colour Wheel Page" next to its text description for each photo
or
use the Rock Garden Colour Wheel on the right to link to that Colour or 1 of the others.
You could also get to its text row in the relevant Rock Plant Index page using the first letter of its name as the Index Page name to click.

There are 256 plant photos in the following flower colour months in this Gallery:-

12 January
21 February
32 March
26 April
29 May
42 June
31 July
17 August
23 September
21 October
9 November
3 December

There are 35 plant description pages in this Gallery:-

15 BULBS, CORMS and TUBERS
4 EVERGREEN SUBSHRUBS
7 EVERGREEN PERENNIALS
2 EVERGREEN SHRUBS
7 HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS

The Site Map which links to all the
"Rock Garden Plants who do not have Plant Description Pages in this website"
is at the end of the Menu Table on the right of every page in this Gallery.

"
Seed Pans

Pans are used in preference to the wooden flats for raising alpine plants from seed and there are 3 reasons for their use:-

First of all pans are rot proof, especially as it may be necessary to retain the pans over a period of years.
Secondly pans are less liable to attack from woodlice which are attracted to damp wood in which to make a home. They like nothing better than a supply of young seedlings for a meal.
Lastly my own opinion is, a more uniform temperature and moisture content of the seed compost so necessary for good germination is obtainable by using the porous pan for the raising of alpine plants from seed.

All pans must be scrupously clean for seed raising and these and all crocking materials are best washed in hot soapy water. Give these a good scrubbing with a pot brush to remove all dirt and stains. After this treatment a plunge into a strong solution of permanganate of potash, to act as a partial steriliser and a deterrent to formation of fungi, lichens, etc. The pans should then be placed on one side to dry, but do not allow them to become too dry, otherwise they will extract all the moisture from the seed compost. Wet pans must not be used for they will cause the soil to adhere to the sides. Thus when attempting to remove the seedlings it will be found that both the soil and roots of the seedlings have become attached to the pans and a subsequent loss of seedlings is likely to occur. New pans must not be used straight from the makers, for they will have been kiln fired and therefore need soaking for at least 24 hours before use. Then, these also must be partly dried after the potash of permanganate plunge.

The preparation of the pans for raising plants from seed is simple. At the same time it is necessary to take care, for there is a possibility that they will have to remain in use for a long period. First of all a piece of perforated zinc should be placed over the vent of the pan. This is preferable to crocks which are often used, for the zinc will prevent the entry of undesirable pests such as woodlice, slugs, worms etc., from making a home in the drainage, to say nothing of the damage these will do to the young seedlings. After the piece of zinc, an inch of drainage material is put in. This can be of broken brick, chippings or the residue of Cornish sand after being riddled though a 1/16 inch sieve. On top of this a thin covering of peat roughage or flaked leaf-mould should be placed, just enough to prevent the seed compost from filtering down and blocking up the drainage. Lastly, the compost suited to the seed is used and the pan filled to within 0.5 inches of the top and made firm. It is essential that the soil around the sides of the pan be also firmed, otherwise there will be poor germination in this area. After completion of this firming process evenly over the surface, the seed pans should be placed in a container holding 2 inches (5 cms) of water and left there until the surface of the compost darkens, then the pans should be removed and all surplus water allowed to drain away." from Collector's Alpines by Royton E. Heath published in 1964 by Collingridge Limited.

"
Cuttings
One of the greatest advantages of reproduction of plants by cuttings, is that, unlike seed in which there is a limited period every year to raise plants, they can be propagated by this method at almost any time by taking cuttings of either green, half-ripened or hardwood. With the aid of a little bottom heat to induce rooting, even the winter need not be an out of season period.

No matter what type of material is to be used for cuttings, it must always be borne in mind that on no account must they be taken from flowering shoots. These will not strike, or if they do will rarely grow into first class plants. This is easily understood, for their natural aim is reproduction of the species and as nature's normal method in this matter is the production of seed; then all the available strength is diverted to the buds with this aim in view.

The following are the 5 different kinds of cuttings from which new plants can be raised:-

1 - Green Cuttings
These are taken from the green growing tips of the plants to be propagated. The lower leaves are best removed by a slight upward pull, not downward, which will certainly bring away the outer covering of the stem, thus retarding rooting if not stopping it altogether. A razor blade is used and a cut made just below a node on the stem. This is the part where the leaves are joined to the stem at the base of which new shoots are borne. Roots will form more quickly here than at any other part of the shoot, although there are notable exceptions to the rule. The genera Atragene and Clematis are notable examples, rooting better from inter-nodal cuttings. The cut should be cleanly made, making sure that no bruising occurs, afterwards removing all foliage to 1/3 of its length. Only a small batch of cuttings should be prepared at any one time, for green cuttings quickly flag. This must be avoided as much as possible, so only enough material should be prepared as can be dealt with at once.

These are best rooted in a closed sunny frame if at all possible, but a great deal of watering will be necessary for on no account must the compost be allowed to dry out. Many will root in a matter of days in a frame of this type. If rooted in a part shade frame, which requires less watering, from 1 to 2 weeks will suffice. Naturally everything depends on the season and type of weather experienced at the time the cuttings are taken, but in normal weather conditions May and early June are the best times. If spring is early, the date can be advanced a week or two, or retarded if spring is late or cold. All dates quoted are for the south of England, in the midlands an extra week's growth will be necessary, while in the north and Scotland up to 2 weeks.

2 - Half-ripened Cuttings
These are removed from the plant to be propagated, when the base of the cutting, where it joins the main stem,is mature. The growing tip, although still green, is firm but not hard. The ability to know just when the cutting is ready and firm enough to remove from the parent plant can only be gained with experience. It is recommended that this type of cutting be taken over a period, inserting them in the propagating frame with the date attached to each batch. The time taken for some or all of them to root will give the propagator a general idea of what to look for and he will be able to distinguish between a good or bad cutting. The cutting is ready if when bent it cracks or breaks readily. Most evergreen plants including dwarf shrubs and conifers can be increased by this type of cutting and the use of bottom heat will be beneficial in a number of cases. Not only will this speed up the time taken for the cutting to root, but also it is often the only way in which certain types of plants will root at all. June and July, and possibly the first 2 weeks in August are the normal times in which to take cuttings of this nature.

3 - Hardwood Cuttings
The majority of cuttings which are struck from hardwood or well-ripened wood are from deciduous plants, the growth being mature and firm along the whole length of the stem from which the cutting is to be taken. These are generally taken from the parent plant at the end of October, but this period is only approximate, for it is possible to take this type of cutting right up to the end of the year with good results. The stem to be propagated should be given a quick sharp downward pull so that it comes away with a heel of the old wood attached. The heel is neatly trimmed, taking care not to cut into the core of the old wood. Should there be any foliage still remaining , this must be removed. The prepared cuttings are then put into the cutting frame, close but not touching each other. Here they remain throughout the winter until the following spring, when rooting will commence.

4 - Root Cuttings
It is not a method which is to be advised if other means are available, for the specimen to be used for propagation is certainly spoilt for 2 or 3 years. Examples of plants which can be increased by root cuttings are Morisia monantha, Lewisias and Phlox nana ensifolia.

The plant is carefully removed from its pan and after taking away all drainage material, the roots are gently washed free of soil and then the thong-like roots, not less than the thickness of a pencil, are chosen for propagation. Only 1 or 2 can be taken if the plant is not to suffer unduly and these are cut into pieces 0.75 to 1 inch (2-2.5 cms) in length. Smaller sections should be avoided, as they will not root. The base of the cutting should be cut slightly on the slant so the propagator knows which is the base and which is the top when inserting the cuttings. Reversing the cuttings will almost certainly result in failure. They are not likely to strike unless placed in the rooting medium in the correct position.

The pieces of root are best inserted in pans, the mixture being equal parts of leaf-mould and sharp sand. The top of the root cutting should be just above the surface of the compost. Another inch (2.5cms) of Cornish sand is placed over this and the compost is well watered. The pan is then plunged in a closed frame where fresh growth will soon take place. They should be allowed to grow on steadily for 6 weeks to 2 months keeping the soil just moist. The cuttings can then be treated as rooted cuttings and potted on in the appropriate mixture. April and May are the ideal months for taking this kind of cutting.

5 - Leaf Cuttings
There are a number of alpine plants which can be increased by taking leaf cuttings, and this generally applies to plants which form rosettes from a central rootstock. The family Gesneriaceae contains a number of genera which produce species that are capable of being increased readily by this method, examples being haberleas, ramondas, jankeas etc. The varied species and forms of lewisias can also be relied upon to provide material for leaf cuttings.

All chippings and loose soil should be removed from around the collar of the plant to be propagated. The leaf must then be held firmly, as near the base as possible, and given a sharp downward tug so that the whole leaf, complete with its short basal stalk, is removed. It is very important that the base of the stalk is intact for it is the point where the base was joined to the main stem of the parent plant that the embryo plant is contained.

Although not strictly leaf cuttings, a plant that makes a thick fleshy main stem, such as some of the European primulas, Primula marginata and its varieties for instance, sometimes begin to rot at the apex of the stem, owing to water having lodged there. If the top is completely cut away back to a healthy stock, then all foliage removed, it will be found that at the junction where the foliage joined the stem; small fresh rosettes will appear. After a few weeks, but still while small, they can be removed and dibbled into rooting compost, where they will soon make sturdy young plants.

For leaf cuttings a pan should be filled with equal parts of finely sifted leaf-mould and Cornish sand. The sand should be sifted through a 1/16 inch (2mm) sieve, well mixed with the leaf-mould and thoroughly moistened, and the whole made firm. The leaf cuttings are laid horizontally on the surface of the compost and the short basal stalk pressed into the mixture, making this firm so the leaf cannot move, for firmness is essential for rooting. This can be accomplished by using a piece of bent wire or, what I consider preferable, a small stone placed over the base of the leaf. Not only does the stone protect the base but also this vital part is kept moist and cool. The pan is then placed in the cutting frame which must be kept closed. Rooting actually takes place quickly, but new rosettes are generally slow to form. A careful watch must be maintained for as soon as these are discernible; the stone must be removed. After approximately 4 to 6 weeks the young plantlets will be ready to pot on in the suitable compost.

" from Collector's Alpines by Royton E. Heath published in 1964 by Collingridge Limited.

" Pans

A good supply of pans will be required for a really representative collection of alpines. I have always used half pots, not the so-called alpine pans, which in my opinion are too shallow for the cultivation of alpines. This is a personal preference but I have found that alpines, being naturally long rooting plants, require a deeper root run than is generally supposed. They also need good drainage, at least an inch (2.5 cms) of which has to be used, thus very little room is left for the growing compost if shallow pans are used.

A number of the following sizes will meet most requirements, depending on the extent of the collection, but allowance should be made for plants that are naturally fast growing. Nothing is more annoying than to find that pans are not available when plants need repotting. This sometimes leads to putting off what is an important job, the health of the plants suffering in consequence. It is not only cheaper to purchase complete casts of the different sizes of pans, but also all pans in each individual cast will be of the same size, quite a labour saver when plunging plants.

Sizes	Diameter at top in inches (cms)
Thimbles	2 (5)
Sixties - 60s	3 (7.5)
Fifty-fours - 54s	4 (10)
Fourty-eights - 48s	4.5 (11.25)
Thirty-twos - 32s	6 (15)
Twenty-fours - 24s	8.5 (21.25)
Sixteens - 16s	9.5 (23.75)
Twelves - 12s	11.5 (28.75)
Eights - 8s	12 (30)

The measurements are taken 0.5 inches (1.25 cms) down inside the rim. The following is Chris Garnons-Williams idea of the minimum depth for these pans for alpines:-

0.5 inches (1.25 cms) from top of pan - The staging of the alpine house is a matter of importance as the usual wooden slatted staging supplied with a greenhouse is not suitable. This allows too great a current of air to pass round and under the porous pots, causing them to dry out rapidly, which can prove extremely dangerous to their occupants, if a constant watch is not maintained. Another point is that they are not really strong enough unless reinforced extensively.
The reason for needing a staging with great strength will be readily understood as all plants are plunged to their rims in equal parts gravel and coarse sand, the total weight being considerable. Brick pillars should be constructed to support the staging to a height of 33 inches (82.5 cms); with the pillars being 9 inches by 9 inches (22.5 cms). These pillars should be rendered with a cement mixture of 2 parts of soft sand to 1 of cement, giving a smooth surface so that all the cracks and crannies in the brickwork which could provide homes for pests are eliminated. The height of these supports allows 6 inches (15 cms) from the base of the staging to the edge of the side ventilators. When the pans are placed on the base of the staging the rims are, with the exception of plants in extra large pans, just below the bottom of the side ventilators. Thus, a current of air flows over the tops of the pans, not round the sides, where it could cause excessive drying out with harmful effect on the occupants.
before
0.4 inches (1 cm) of stone chippings on top of
4.5 inches (12.5 cms) of Compost followed by
0.6 inches (1.5 cms) of Drainage Material of Cornish sand - for the drainage itself, the Cornish sand (sharp silver sand) is first of all put through the 0.25 inch (6mm) sieve. The residue, consisting of the large particles, is used for the drainage, and placed to a depth of 0.5 inch (1.25 cms) or more according to the amount required. the first layer allows rapid passage of surplus water. At the same time there are a number of air spaces left between the particles, which are beneficial to the roots as well as keeping the whole moist but not stagnant. The remainder of the sand is then put through a 1/16 inch (1.5mm) sieve and here again the residue is used, just enough on the surface of the larger particles to cover and fill up any surface crevices. Lastly a thin layer of roughage is placed over the sand to prevent the compost filtering down and blocking up the drainage. The roughage can be from flaked leaf-mould or the residue of peat after sieving.
This method has one great advantage over the use of other materials such as broken crocks or bricks. When repotting and after the plant is carefully removed, it will be observed that all the sand used for the drainage falls gently away leaving the long feeding roots hanging free, ready for repotting and the working in of fresh compost round the roots. On the other hand when broken crocks or bricks are used, normally the roots will be found adhering to them and making it a difficult task to free them without fracturing a large number, and causing a check to the plant.
and finally
Perforated zinc on the complete base of the pan - For the crock required to cover the hole at the base of the pan is
- either a small piece of crock roughly broken to fit over the hole completely, placed so that it is convex in relation to the base of the pan. This allows the drainage material to settle without blockage to the drainage vent. It becomes a first class residence for slugs, woodlice and other kindred pests.
- or small pieces of perforated zinc. The circular pieces of this perforated zinc have outer edges being flat while the centres are convex, thus the pieces when placed on the base of the pan allow an air space but no ingress to pests.
to make a total pan height of at least 6 inches (15 cms).

A number of square pans are useful and take up less room on the staging, besides being easier for packing if exhibiting, but the cost is much greater than that of the orthodox round pans. These square pans can be constructed at home quite cheaply, all that is required is a wooden former or formers, the size or sizes depending entirely on the purpose for which they will be needed. The small wooden bung is cut from a broom shank and is needed for the drainage hole. The following Fig 16 gives a good idea of the method and used in conjunction with these notes it will be possible to produce first class containers.

squarepanformer

A sheet of brown paper larger than the required size of the pan is laid on a flat surface and the wooden former is placed in the centre. A mix is made consisting of

1 part cement,
1 part peat and
2 parts sharp sand,

all ingredients should be well mixed dry first and then a little water added until the whole is just moist. This is important for the cement is applied by hand, about 0.5 inches (1.25 cms) thick and just smoothed out with a trowel; if too wet the mix will not retain its shape. Cover with a damp sack or rags and leave for at least 9 days, when the complete pan can be gently eased out of the former, which can be used over and over again. Naturally if a selection of formers is made up, it is possible to build up a good collection of pans over a period of time. Another advantage is that knowing the size of the available space on the alpine house staging it will be possible to build the square pans to size so that the maximum number of plants can be accomodated.

Another type of pan that is often used for growing the rarer high alpine plants, especially those with a long rooting system, is called the 'Long Tom'. This is at least twice the depth of the normal pans thus allowing the room needed for extra drainage material, required for this type of plant.

Most gardeners will want to raise plants from seed as this method is very often the only way of obtaining plants from abroad. To do this seed pans will also be required. Shallow pans are quite suitable, approximately 3 inches (7.5 cms) in depth, irrespective of the size of pan. Pans are generally preferable to the old shallow wooden seed boxes which are used for raising annual bedding plants each year, which are not only perishable, lasting but a year or two, but also provide a congenial home for woodlice and other pests. A number of small pots used for cacti, 1.5 inches (3.75 cms) in diameter for the first potting up of seedlings will also be found useful. No new bisque-fired clay pan must be used before having soaked for at least 24 hours in water. It is surprising the amount they will absorb during this period, the reason being that every trace of moisture has been extracted during the oven firing process. Failure to do this will have disastrous results, for any moisture in the compost when used for potting up will be absorbed by the dry pan instead of by the plant.

Cleanliness is essential when dealing with pans. It is the dirt adhering to the pan, especially at the base where the drainage goes that is the very thing you wish to avoid, and is only waiting the opportunity to infest what is otherwise clean compost. Here is the breeding home of nematodes, woodlice, slugs, etc. All pans should be scrubbed after use and before using for new plants. Warm water is best and add a soap powder. Special care should be taken that all dirt is removed from the base of the pan. A rinsing in clean cold water to which has been added a few crystals of potassium permanganate will complete the job.

" from Collector's Alpines by Royton E. Heath published in 1964 by Collingridge Limited.

BeeMat is a biodegradable pre-seeded growing mat that controls weeds. You can lay BeeMat from March until mid-August providing conditions remain good and the soil temperature is above 5 degrees Centigrade. It contains mixed flower seeds that have been carefully chosen to provide nectar and pollen for bees in the autumn when other flowers have finished. The bees visiting this mat will also visit your rock garden plants close by to pollinate your flowers and then you may get seeds to increase your stock of that rock plant

Try using Peat Free compost instead of using Peat.

The National Herb Centre, banbury Road, Warmington, Near Banbury, Warwickshire has:-

" Nature Trail & Gardens

Our nature trail and display gardens are set in beautiful countryside and entry to them is free.

Nature Trail

Our nature trail winds down through a valley amongst fields, by ponds and into woodland with the opportunity to view three separate counties, namely Oxfordshire, Warwickshire and Northamptonshire.

There are three routes to choose from and the time to complete each trail ranges from 25 minutes to approximately an hour.

On the trail you may see all kinds of wildlife in its natural habitat including rabbits, foxes, badgers, bats, buzzards, partridge, a variety of deer or even a white stag, as well as seeing native trees and wild flowers.

A guide to the trail and what to look out for, is available in the shop.

Gardens

We have six specially designed demonstration herb gardens to show you how you can make the most of herbs in your own garden, including ideas for encouraging wildlife, growing edible herbs and a garden inspired by the Roman use of herbs.

When enjoying our nature trail and gardens please observe the simple rules of the countryside code and keep dogs on a lead and ensure children respect the welfare of wildlife, particularly in the spring and summer to avoid disturbing the wildlife during the important breeding months."

Not much room, then create a miniature garden:-

"The Miniature Garden Shoppe is a family business which opened in 2008. I (Kathryn) am the creative mind, designer, and gardener behind the store and my husband, Ben, is the computer-guy and entrepreneur. My mother-in-law, Mary, is our talented photographer.

The concept of miniature gardening makes so much sense. Many of us don’t have the time to tend huge gardens these days. And those who already have gardens, appreciate the opportunity for a new creative gardening outlet that doesn’t require digging up more ground or hours of maintenance.

I grew up in the greenhouse business and am a garden designer and horticulturalist by trade, with a degree in Ornamental Horticulture from the University of Illinois. I was first charmed and inspired by a miniature garden that I saw on an area garden club garden walk in 2005. Like any creative soul, I started thinking of how I would make my own little landscape. I started searching for all of the miniature garden necessities and began gardening in a new direction, on a much smaller scale. The ideas are limitless but the materials can be difficult to find, hence the Miniature Garden Shoppe….

It goes without saying that all of the products on our website are not toys and not intended for children. There are many sharp edges, pointed ends, and tiny pieces that are nothing but hazardous for young kids. Having said that, I can tell you that people of all ages are charmed by these little creations. My two-year old son loved to dig in the gardens with the tiny shovel and to water our miniature garden using the tiny bucket, which he fills from the birdbath in the yard.

Whatever your age or interest, I hope you find everything you need to create a tiny garden treasure of your own or for a special gift. Nothing can squash a flash of inspiration like the frustration of not being able to find what you need. If there’s something you’re looking for and can’t find it, please drop us a line. If you run into a problem when you’re creating your garden or a have a question while caring for it, please don’t hesitate to contact us. If we don’t have the answer, we’ll help you find it.

These little gardens are enchanting and intriguing and I’m glad your search has led you here. I know you’re going to have fun with this idea and I hope we can help!

Happy gardening,

Kathryn Newman

Miniature Garden Shoppe "

Flower Shape and Plant Use of
Bedding
Bulb
Evergreen Perennial
Herbaceous Perennial
Rose
Evergreen Shrub
Deciduous Shrub
Evergreen Tree
Deciduous Tree
Annual
Fern
Wildflower
details
1. Why the perfect soil for general use is composed of 8.3% lime, 16.6% humus, 25% clay and 50% sand within the SOIL TEXTURE, and
2. Why you are continually losing the SOIL STRUCTURE if you leave bare earth between plants so your soil - will revert to clay, chalk, sand or silt - unless you replace that lost humus with an organic mulch.

PAGES FOR PHOTOS OF ROCK GARDEN PLANTS WHO DO NOT HAVE THEIR OWN PLANT DESCRIPTION PAGE

Site Map

Introduction

Small size plant in Flower Colours

Miniature size plant in Flower Colours

Small Size plant flower in Month

Miniature Size plant flower in Month

FLOWERING IN MONTH
including those from the Camera Photo Galleries as detailed in row 3 of the Topic Table on the left.
Click on the centre of each thumbnail in the following flower colour month pages to transfer to the description of that plant in a Camera Photo Gallery Page:-
January
February
March
April
May
June
July
August
September
October
November
December

Dark Tone or Shades
(Colours mixed with Black)
Mid-Tone
(Colours mixed with Grey)
Pure Hue
(the Primary, Secondary or Tertiary Colour named)
Pastel
(Colours mixed with White)

ROCK GARDEN PLANT INDEX
(o)Rock Plant: A
(o)Rock Plant: B
(o)Rock Plant: C
(o)Rock Plant: D
(o)Rock Plant: E
(o)Rock Plant: F
(o)Rock Plant: G
(o)Rock Plant: H
(o)Rock Plant: I
(o)Rock Plant: J
(o)Rock Plant: K
(o)Rock Plant: L
(o)Rock Plant: M
(o)Rock Plant: NO
(o)Rock Plant: PQ
(o)Rock Plant: R
(o)Rock Plant: S
(o)Rock Plant: T
(o)Rock Plant: UVWXYZ

LISTS OF PLANTS SUITABLE FOR VARIOUS SITUATIONS AND PURPOSES:-

THE ROCK GARDEN -

Rock plants for Sunny Sites.

Rock plants for Shady Sites.

Early Bloom in the Rock Garden.

Summer Bloom in the Rock Garden.

Late Bloom in the Rock Garden.

Rock plants of Creeping and Trailing Habit.

Rock plants with Evergreen Foliage.

Rock Plants with Silvery or Variegated Foliage.

Rock plants needing the protection of Sheet of Glass in Winter.

Rock plants which hate Lime.

Lime Lovers.

Peat Lovers.

THE WALL GARDEN -

Plants for sunny sites in the Wall Garden.

Plants for Shady Sites in the Wall Garden.

Plants for a Dry Site on a Wall.

Plants for a Moderately Dry Site on a Wall.

Plants for a Moist Site on a Wall.

Plants for Positions on Top of Walls.

Plants to Hang Down from the Upper Parts of a Wall.

Website Structure Explanation and User Guidelines

DETAILS OF PLANTS IN LISTS FOR THE ROCK, WALL, PAVED, WATER AND BOG GARDENS

Some Good Rock Plants with Some on Moraine

Plants for the Alpine House

Plants for the Miniature Rock Garden with some Bulbs

Shrubs for the Rock Garden

Moisture-loving Trees and Shrubs for Bog or Water Garden

Ferns

Plants for Wall Garden and Paved Garden

Plants for the Water Garden

Plants for the Bog Garden

The Moraine or Scree Garden - Many of the alpines will not prosper in the ordinary rock garden. They require that the natural conditions under which they live in the wild state shall be copied as nearly as possible in the rock garden. The plants to which we refer grow on mountain slopes covered with loose stones, where the melting of the snow during summer provides them with plenty of ice-cold water and where a blanket of snow protects them during the winter. The conditions we must endeavour to reproduce are, therefore: adequate moisture for the roots in summer while the plants are growing, but at the same time good drainage:
and secondly, protection from damp in the winter. The moraine is intended to provide these requirements, and can be made quite cheaply anywhere in the rock garden. Plants requiring very diverse kinds of soil may thus, with great effect, be grown in close proximity.

Making the Moraine
An ideal and natural position for the moraine would be in the sun at the lower end of a miniature valley between 2 rocky spurs, the gorge gradually expanding into a flat bed of scree with occasional boulders strewn over it. The extent of the moraine will vary in proportion to the size of the whole rock garden. If the latter is large, the moraine may cover an area of many square yards (square metres); on the other hand, it may be nothing more than a small, well-drained pocket or crevice filled with moraine mixture in which a single specimen is grown.
To construct the moraine, dig out about 30 inches (75cms) of the soil and make the bottom of the basin or trench slope slightly towards the front: the slope must not be too steep or the moraine will become over-dry in summer. The lower 10 inches (25cms) must be made water-tight by means of puddling with clay or by means of cement. Make an outlet in front, which when closed keeps about 10 inches (25 cms) of water, but not more, in the lowest parts of the basin, while when the outlet is open no water can remain in the basin. Now cover the bottom of the trench with about 10 inches (25 cms) of rubble, stones, or any material that will afford good drainage. Above this place another 6 inches (15 cms) or so of smaller stones roughly 2 inches (5 cms) in diameter; these will fill the gaps between the larger stones and prevent the small grit above from sinking through and blocking the drainage. The hollow is then filled up with a mixture of stone chips and gravel. Over this again is thrown a covering, an inch or so (2.5 cm) in thickness, formed of a mixture of equal parts of ordinary garden soil, leaf mould, and small stone chips similar to those used in frosty weather for sprinkling on wood-paved roads. Limestone or sandstone chips are excellent and easily obtained; flint chips should not be used, as they do not conserve moisture. Place a few boulders in the moraine to break up the surface and to give the plants some protection. A natural trickle of water may be led into the top of the moraine, or each day sufficient moisture may be given from a watering-can to cause an overflow from the outlet at the bottom. From November to May, when no additional moisture is needed in the moraine, the outlet should be left open.
The overflow from the moraine may be led into a small pool, which will add great charm to the rock garden, and is easy to construct while the garden is being made. In it may be grown rushes and small water plants, while the overflow from it will provide an excellent situation for bog plants or for any alpines loving plenty of moisture. When planting, the gardener should remember the conditions under which each plant lives in its native state, and should set it in the rock garden accordingly. Many plants that have proved failures in the rock garden proper will, on transplantation to the moraine, flourish.
The inhabitants of the moraine are not so rampant as many alpines grown in the rock garden proper, but for all that, the more vigorous should be kept in check. A light top-dressing of equal parts of loam, leaf-mould, and stone chips will be required in spring and again in early autumn.

Protection of Plants in Winter
Plants whose leaves are covered with fluff or down are, when in their natural haunts, usually protected from damp during the winter by a coat of snow. When they are grown out of doors in England, they must, therefore, be given a covering of glass during the winter months: that is, from the middle of October to the beginning of March. When the plant is a small one nestling in a crevice between the rocks, it is often possible to cover it with a sheet of glass resting on the surrounding rocks; but when this cannot be done, 4 pieces of stiff galvanized wire should be inserted firmly in the ground and bent over at the top to hold the glass plate securely in position over the plant. If the weather is especially severe or the plant very delicate, 4 additional pieces of glass may be set in the soil and supported by the wires so as to form 4 walls protecting the plant. Sufficient space between the glass roof and the tops of the 4 walls should be left for adequate ventilation (but not enough to admit the rain or snow) or the plants will be liable to damp-off. Hand-lights and bell-glasses may also be used, but in all cases adequate ventilation should be provided. The frost will often raise the plants from the soil, especially those planted the previous autumn. In spring, therefore, each plant should be carefully scrutinized, and, if necessary, gently pressed down into the soil. Dead leaves must be removed from around the plants, and a top-dressing of fine, sandy loam and leaf-mould should be sifted round and close up to the crowns.

Copied from
Ivydene Gardens Soil:
Action Plan for YOU to Do with Your Soil.

Soil contains living material that requires the right structure and organic material to provide food for plants.

If the structure of the soil tends towards a loam of about 20-50% sand, silt and 20 - 40% clay with a pH between 6 and 7.5, then this suitable for a high proportion of plants.

Otherwise an application of a mulch of sand and horticultural grit for clay, or clay and horticultural grit for sand, is required to improve plant growth.

If an annual mulch of organic material (Spent Mushroom Compost, Cow Manure, Horse Manure does contain weed seeds and should only be used under hedges or ground-covering trees/shrubs) is applied of 100mm (4”) thickness to the soil, then the living material in the soil can continue their role of feeding the plants. This mulch will stop the ground drying out due to wind or sun having direct access to the ground surface. The annual loss of organic matter from soils in cool humid climates is about 6lbs per square metre.

If there is also a drip-feed irrigation system under the mulch (which is used for 4 continuous hours a week - when there is no rain that week from April to September), then the living material can get their food delivered in solution or suspension.

If the prunings from your garden are shredded (or reduced to 4” lengths) and then applied as a mulch to your flower beds or hedges, followed by 0.5” depth of grass mowings on top; this will also provide a start for improvement of your soil. The 0.5" layer can be applied again after a fortnight; when the aerobic composting stage (the aerobic composting creates heat and 0.5" - 1 cm - thickness does not become too hot to harm the plants next to it) has been completed during the summer. Anaerobic (without using air) composting then completes the process.

Application of Seaweed Meal for Trace Elements and other chemicals required to replenish what has been used by the plants in the previous year for application in Spring are detailed in the How are Chemicals stored and released from Soil? page.

You normally eat and drink at least 3 times every day to keep you growing, healthy and active; plants also require to eat and drink every day. Above 5 degrees Celcius plants tend to grow above ground and below 5 degrees Celcius they tend to grow their roots underground.

2 minor points to remember with their result-

the oxygen you breathe to keep you alive has mostly been produced by plants. A 25 feet x 25 feet lawn can produce enough oxygen for you to keep breathing each year.
A car driven 60 miles will consume the same amount of oxygene that a mature beech tree produces in 1 year.
Result is that the Carbon Dioxide produced by machines and people/animals breathing is exceeding what plants can do to transform Carbon Dioxide back into air, especially since more of the ground area used for vegetation is being changed to one which is not.
Increasing Carbon Dioxide increases the heat in the atmosphere and gives what we call Climate Change - In the early Pliocene, global temperatures were 1–2˚C warmer than the present temperature, yet sea level was 15–25 meters (50 - 75 feet) higher than today. The increase in temperature will raise sea level to drown many acres of coastal areas around the world because we as a human race are so stupid; within this century.

Soils and their Treatment
(from Colour All The Year In My Garden: A selection of choice varieties - annuals, biennials, perennials, bulbs, climbers and trees and shrubs - that will give a continuity of colour in the garden throughout the year. Edited by C.H. Middleton. Gardening Book from Ward, Lock & Co published in 1938, provides plant data for a calendar of plants in bloom throughout the year and for those in the smallest garden.)

The perfect soil for general use should be composed of 8.3% lime, 16.6% humus, 25% clay and 50% sand. Soil containing constituents in these ratios will rarely be found, but many loams will not be far from the ideal, and with a little judicious improvement will furnish a compost in which most plants will thrive.

Soil Improvement
Water-logged soil will not allow the continual life of the majority of plants. Very sandy soil so unretentive of moisture is equally hopeless. What most plants require is a soil which, while efficiently drained and containing within a few feet of the surface no body of stagnant water, shall yet be of such a texture and shall include a sufficient proportion of organic material as to retain for an appreciable time a moderate degree of water. If the soil is naturally very heavy, that is to say, if it consists very largely of clay, and especially if it rests at a comparatively shallow depth below the surface on an almost impervious layer, it is almost certain to be more or less water-logged. And it is necessary in such a case to dig it deeply and to provide adequate drainage, and at the same time to lighten the upper layers of the soil by the addition of dsand, leaf-mould, and organic manures such as stable manure (I prefer cow manure since it contains no weed seeds). In a similar way very light, sandy soils should be improved by the liberal addition of clay, fibrous loam such as is obtained from the top spit of meadow-land, leaf-mould, and cow or pig manure. These latter, which, in the case of the heavy soils, serve to keep open the clay which would tend otherwise to form a solid block, help, in the case of sandy soils, to bind them together, and enable them to retain a greatly increased volume of water.
In the case of practically all soils one of the first things to do, over and above such special measures as have been suggested, is to trench the ground or to dig it deeply.

Copied from Ivydene Gardens Soil: What to do about Subsidence caused by Clay?
Factors causing Subsidence of Buildings, especially Tree Roots in Clay Soils Subsidence is described as “ a movement involved in the site, normally downwards, so that damage occurs to the building standing upon it”. Some 150,000 homes in the UK Southeast have suffered from subsidence between 1980 and 1995. The main causes are: -
Source Number	Subsidence effect	Subsidence Cause
1	Erosion	River or Sea
2	Mining	Isolated or Wave. Along the North Downs escarpment of Southern England mining has been carried out to extract hearthstones, firestones, building stones and also pure silica sand. Chalk and flints have been mined by the application of pillar and stall methods in Kent. On reaching the mine boundary the pillars were then worked in retreat, allowing the roof to collapse. Often this collapse was not instigated and these uncharted shallow partially extracted workings now present engineering problems.
3	Tree Roots	Clay soils and mechanical. Removal of trees from a clay soil just prior to construction could cause heave (caused by the rehydration and swelling of a clay soil from rainfall) of the soil after building construction.
4	Seasonal fluctuations	Affected by climatic changes and vegetation. The Marine clay sediments of the Southeast have a high shrinkage potential, so swell when it rains and shrink during long hot dry summers. The Southeast also suffers the highest summer soil-moisture deficit in the UK.
5	Escape of water	Defective drainage. If there are any defects in a drain, then a root is liable to enter and proliferate and thereby cause a blockage, but an intact drain cannot be penetrated. Inspect any manholes within 3 metres of a tree/hedge.
6	Over-stressing	a. Overloading b. Building alongside
7	Undermining	Deep drainage trench where trench bottom is lower than building foundations.
8	Landslip	Movement of the site. Removal of material from the toe of a slope, side long excavations for the construction of roads or placement of foundations can instigate failure. Loading of slopes at the crest by construction can impose additional forces resulting in slope failure, especially on clay subsoil.
9	Compaction of infill/ settlement	Cut and fill sites. If well-graded sand and gravel is used to fill the cut or fill side of site before the construction of the building upon it, then this has a very low compressibility. If it is domestic rubbish at the other extreme, then this is very highly compressible. Filling below solid floors. This is unlikely with sandy granular subsoil, but settlement relating to a clay sub-soil can take place up to 5 years after the building is completed and in exceptional circumstances, this may even extend to 10 years.
10	Inadequate foundations	“Doomed from the start”. Since 1950 building foundations have been placed at not less than 900mm below ground level. Since that time, very few cases of subsidence have been reported to houses with foundations of such a depth purely due to this foundation depth. Assumed depth of foundations for properties older than 1930 is 0.6metres, 1930-1950 is 0.7metres, 1950-1976 is 0.9metres, 1976-1986 is 1.0metres, since 1986 without trees at time of construction is 1.0metres for sand, 1.25metres for sandy/clay and 1.5metres for clay subsoil.
The influence of trees on House Foundations in clay soils:-
Ranking	Tree Species	Maximum Tree Height in metres	Maximum Distance of tree from building for 75% of subsidence cases		Minimum horizontal separation distance in very highly and highly shrinkable CLAYS in metres
1	Oak	23	13		23
2	Poplar	24	15		24
3	Lime	24	8		12
4	Common Ash	23	10		12
5	Plane	30	7.5		15
6	Willow	15	11		15
7	Elm	25	12		12
8	Hawthorn	10	7		5
9	Maple/ Sycamore	24	9		12
10	Cherry/Plum	8	6		8
11	Beech	20	9		10
12	Birch	14	7		7
13	Whitebeam/ Rowan	12	9.5		12
14	Cypress	25	3.5		12
Minimum distance (metres) between structure and centre of trunk to avoid direct damage to a structure from future growth of the base of the trunk and tree roots: -
		Mature Height of Tree
		8m to 15m		Over 15m
Buildings and heavily loaded structures		0.5		1.2
Lightly loaded structures such as single storey timber frame, garages, porch, etc		0.7		1.5
Water demand of different conifer and broadleafed tree species – with 5.6 being moderate water demand and 8 being the highest:-
Tree Category	8	7	6	5	4	3
Broad-leaved Broad-leaved trees not listed have a factor of 4	Eucalyptus Populus Quercus	Crataegus Salix Sorbus (simple leaved) Ulmus	Aesculus Fraxinus Platanus Tilia	Acer Castanea Fagus Malus Prunus Pyrus Robinia Sorbus (compound leaved)	Ailanthus Alnus Betula Carpinus Gleditsia Ilex Juglans Laburnum	Catalpa Corylus Ficus Liquid-ambar Lirio-dendron Magnolia Morus Sambucus
Conifer Conifer trees not listed have a factor of 3	Cupressus	Chamaecyparis x cupressocyparis	Sequoia-dendron	Cedrus Thuja	Juniperus Taxus Tsuga	Abies Araucaria Ginkgo Larix Picea Pinus
Before you buy another building, please take account of the following future possible causes of its subsidence, as well as any of the other causes of subsidence detailed above: - Pour 2 gallons of water onto a flat area of soil. If the water has not gone within 2 minutes then execute the following actions to obtain a sub-soil type. If there are trees/hedges in the garden, then between one of these trees and the building dig a small pit to remove the topsoil before using a 50mm augur to obtain a sub-soil sample between 1.4 and 1.6metres below this pit. If this sample is sand or chalk, then tree/hedge roots are unlikely to affect the building. If the sub-soil is clay or a sandy-clay, then for each tree/hedge the following should be obtained for a Subsidence Risk Factor by a qualified Arboriculturalist as recommended by an Insurance Broker/Company:- A Site Plan showing an outline of the buildings and the likely position of drainage systems as well as any tree(s) or other woody vegetation in relation to the buildings and its drainage systems. A list complementary to the Site Plan detailing the species, age, height, crown size, condition, vigour, future growth potential and distance from the building of each tree/woody vegetation. The probable type of the sub-soil on the site. The likely depth and type of foundations of the buildings. Any recommendations for immediate and/or future action/treatment to any trees/hedge likely to pose a Subsidence Risk to the building. Any recommendations for immediate and/or future action/treatment to any trees/hedges that are considered likely to cause direct damage to the building or drainage system. Any obvious signs of root growth or damage by root growth to the superstructure of any manhole including benching, brickwork, render or pipework. If the sub-soil is chalk or sand, then investigate the drains with a CCTV Drainage Survey, Read the Land Registry documents to see what the land was used for before building work commenced (possible water-cress farm!). Read the plans submitted to the local authority for any previous building work for its possible changes to foundation depth and material used under the ground floor, external patios, drives and paths. If tree/hedge/climber/shrub pruning is contemplated to alleviate a possible problem, the objective is to reduce the leaf area of the plant; as the amount of water utilised by this plant and thus the extent of soil drying which can develop is closely related to this leaf area. Thus control of this leaf area provides a means of controlling soil drying. Crown reduction is generally the most effective method of pruning, but other techniques such as thinning or crown lifting may be used where appropriate. This treatment may have to be repeated on a regular basis, which is no problem for a climber, shrub or hedge, but could be too expensive for a tree. Recommendations If the trees are Chamaecyparis x cupressocyparis, then I would recommend removal of branches on one side and erecting a climbing support frame on that pruned side. Then, when the climber has filled the support space, remove the remainder of the branches and its main trunks down to the top of the climbing support frame. This means that the trees become climbing support posts. Leylandii trees cannot be pruned back beyond the green leaf, since the resulting bare branch will not create new leaves and their eventual height can be 120 feet. For hedges and shelterbelts, request the 1-2 year seedlings grown in 100cc cells/root trainers from Sevenoaks Coblands Cash & Carry at Dry Hill Lane, Sundridge, Sevenoaks, Kent, TN14 6AA (Tel 01959 561 274) or ask me and my price will be 25% cheaper than their retail price. The roots of these plants when growing will not throttle themselves after about 10-15 years due to their being almost straight down. For more mature trees, request them from the Barcham Nursery selection provided by Sevenoaks Coblands Cash & Carry. The roots of these plants when growing will not throttle themselves after about 10-15 years due to their being almost straight down because of the white containers that they are grown in. Pages 30 and 134 of Coblands Catalogue obtainable from Sevenoaks Cash & Carry provide excellent guides to the planting and aftercare of Coblands Plants, especially regarding irrigation (irrigation pipe from Leaky Pipe Systems – 01622 746495), mulching (bark from Gardenscape – Tel 0800 854663 or cow manure from Isle of Grain – Tel 01634 250379) and a 1 metre diameter plant free area around the tree during the first 2 years. Most gardens can only afford - due to their size - either small fruit trees (obtainable from Ken Muir – Tel 0255 830181), large shrubs or hedges created from trees (Coblands Cash & Carry) which become no higher than 1.8 metres and are at least 1.5 metres away from the building. A minor point to remember: when you are sold a property; you are then responsible if it fails. The next page shows the damage created by a builder who had run out of topsoil and then used blue clay instead.

Copied from
Garden Construction Gallery.
Additional Information

Pest Control using Plants

and

Before reaching for the pesticides, here are a few alternative natural, non-toxic methods of slug control:

• Watering Schedule - Far and away the best course of action against slugs in your garden is a simple adjustment in the watering schedule. Slugs are most active at night and are most efficient in damp conditions. Avoid watering your garden in the evening if you have a slug problem. Water in the morning - the surface soil will be dry by evening. Studies show this can reduce slug damage by 80%.

• Seaweed - If you have access to seaweed, it's well worth the effort to gather. Seaweed is not only a good soil amendment for the garden, it's a natural repellent for slugs. Mulch with seaweed around the base of plants or perimeter of bed. Pile it on 3" to 4" thick - when it dries it will shrink to just an inch or so deep. Seaweed is salty and slugs avoid salt. Push the seaweed away from plant stems so it's not in direct contact. During hot weather, seaweed will dry and become very rough which also deters the slugs.

• Copper - Small strips of copper can be placed around flower pots or raised beds as obstructions for slugs to crawl over. Cut 2" strips of thin copper and wrap around the lower part of flower pots, like a ribbon. Or set the strips in the soil on edge, making a "fence" for the slugs to climb. Check to make sure no vegetation hangs over the copper which might provide a 'bridge' for the slugs. Copper barriers also work well around wood barrels used as planters.
A non-toxic copper-based metallic mesh Slug Shield is available which can be wrapped around the stem of plants and acts as a barrier to slugs. When slugs come in contact with the mesh they receive an electric-like shock. The mesh also serves as a physical barrier. These slug shields are reusable, long-lasting and weather-proof.

• Diatomaceous Earth - Diatomaceous earth (Also known as "Insect Dust") is the sharp, jagged skeletal remains of microscopic creatures. It lacerates soft-bodied pests, causing them to dehydrate. A powdery granular material, it can be sprinkled around garden beds or individual plants, and can be mixed with water to make a foliar spray.
Diatomaceous earth is less effective when wet, so use during dry weather. Wear protective gear when applying, as it can irritate eyes and lungs. Be sure to buy natural or agricultural grade diatomaceous earth, not pool grade which has smoother edges and is far less effective. Click for more information or to purchase Food Grade Diatomaceous Earth.

• Electronic "slug fence" - An electronic slug fence is a non-toxic, safe method for keeping slugs out of garden or flower beds. The Slugs Away fence is a 24-foot long, 5" ribbon-like barrier that runs off a 9 volt battery. When a slug or snail comes in contact with the fence, it receives a mild static sensation that is undetectable to animals and humans. This does not kill the slug, it cause it to look elsewhere for forage. The battery will power the fence for about 8 months before needing to be replaced. Extension kits are availabe for increased coverage. The electronic fence will repel slugs and snails, but is harmless to people and pets.

• Lava Rock - Like diatomaceous earth, the abrasive surface of lava rock will be avoided by slugs. Lava rock can be used as a barrier around plantings, but should be left mostly above soil level, otherwise dirt or vegetation soon forms a bridge for slugs to cross.  • Salt - If all else fails, go out at night with the salt shaker and a flashlight. Look at the plants which have been getting the most damage and inspect the leaves, including the undersides. Sprinkle a bit of salt on the slug and it will kill it quickly. Not particularly pleasant, but use as a last resort. (Note: some sources caution the use of salt, as it adds a toxic element to the soil. This has not been our experience, especially as very little salt is used.)  • Beer - Slugs are attracted to beer. Set a small amount of beer in a shallow wide jar buried in the soil up to its neck. Slugs will crawl in and drown. Take the jar lid and prop it up with a small stick so rain won't dilute the beer. Leave space for slugs to enter the trap.  • Overturned Flowerpots, Grapefruit Halves, Board on Ground - Overturned flowerpots, with a stone placed under the rim to tilt it up a bit, will attract slugs. Leave overnight, and you'll find the slugs inside in the morning. Grapefruit halves work the same way, with the added advantage of the scent of the fruit as bait.
Another trap method, perhaps the simplest of all, is to set a wide board on the ground by the affected area. Slugs will hide under the board by day. Simply flip the board over during the day to reveal the culprits. Black plastic sheeting also works the same way.

• Garlic-based slug repellents Laboratory tests at the University of Newcastle-Upon-Tyne (UK) revealed that a highly refined garlic product (ECOguard produced by ECOspray Ltd, a British company that makes organic pesticides) was an effective slug killer. Look for garlic-based slug deterrents which will be emerging under various brand names, as well as ECOguard.  • Coffee grounds; new caffeine-based slug/snail poisons - Coffee grounds scattered on top of the soil will deter slugs. The horticultural side effects of using strong grounds such as espresso on the garden, however, are less certain. When using coffee grounds, moderation is advised.
A study in June 2002 reported in the journal Nature found that slugs and snails are killed when sprayed with a caffeine solution, and that spraying plants with this solution prevents slugs from eating them. The percentage of caffeine required in a spray (1 - 2%) is greater than what is found in a cup of coffee (.05 - 07%), so homemade sprays are not as effective. Look for new commercial sprays which are caffeine-based.

UKButterflies Larval Foodplants website page lists the larval foodplants used by British butterflies. The name of each foodplant links to a Google search. An indication of whether the foodplant is a primary or secondary food source is also given. Please note that the Butterfly you see for only a short time has grown up on plants as an egg, caterpillar and chrysalis for up to 11 months, before becoming a butterfly. If the plants that they live on during that time are removed, or sprayed with herbicide, then you will not see the butterfly.
Plants used by the Butterflies follow the Plants used by the Egg, Caterpillar and Chrysalis as stated in A Butterfly Book for the Pocket by Edmund Sandars. Published by Oxford University Press London: Humphrey Milford in 1939.
Plant Name	Butterfly Name	Egg/ Caterpillar/ Chrysalis/ Butterfly	Plant Usage	Plant Usage Months
Alder Buckthorn	Brimstone	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	1 egg under leaf. Eats leaves. ---	10 days in May-June 28 days. 12 days.
Aspen	Large Tortoiseshell	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. Feeds on leaves. Hangs suspended from stem.	Hatches after 18-22 days in April. 30 days in May 9 days in June.
Black Medic	Common Blue	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. Eats buds and flowers. Base of food plant.	- - Spend winter at the base of the food plant. They resume feeding in March. 2 weeks
Common Birdsfoot Trefoil	Chalk-Hill Blue	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	1 egg at base of plant. Eats leaves. ---	Late August-April April-June 1 Month
Common Birdsfoot Trefoil	Common Blue	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. Eats buds and flowers. Base of food plant.	- - Spend winter at the base of the food plant. They resume feeding in March. 2 weeks
Common Birdsfoot Trefoil	Wood White	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	1 egg laid on underside of leaflets or bracts. Eats leaves. ---	7 days in June. 32 days in June-July. July-May.
Bitter Vetch	Wood White	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	1 egg laid on underside of leaflets or bracts. Eats leaves. ---	7 days in June. 32 days in June-July. July-May.
Borage	Queen of Spain Fritillary	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	1 egg laid under the leaf or on top of the flower. Eats leaves, then before pupating it eats the bloom and leaves of the pansies. ---	7 days in August. 23 days in August-September. 3 weeks in September
Bramble	Holly Blue	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. Eats flower bud. ---	7 days. 28-42 days. 18 days. Early September to Late April for second generation.
Buckthorn	Holly Blue	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. Eats flower bud. ---	7 days. 28-42 days. 18 days. Early September to Late April for second generation.
Buckthorn - Alder Buckthorn and Common Buckthorn	Brimstone	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	1 egg under leaf. Eats leaves. ---	10 days in May-June. 28 days. 12 days.
Burdocks	Painted Lady	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	1 egg on leaf. Eats leaves. ---	2 weeks 7-11days 7-11 days
Cabbages - Large White eats all cruciferous plants, such as cabbages, mustard, turnips, radishes, cresses, nasturtiums, wild mignonette and dyer's weed	Large White	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	40-100 eggs on both surfaces of leaf. Eats leaves. ---	May-June and August-Early September. 4.5-17 days. 30-32 days 14 days for May-June eggs, or overwinter till April
Cabbages	Small White	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	1 egg on underside of leaf. Eats leaves. ---	May-June and August. 7 days. 28 days 21 days for May-June eggs, or overwinter till March
Cabbages:- Charlock, Cuckoo Flower (Lady's Smock), Hedge-Mustard, Garlic-Mustard, Yellow Rocket (Common Winter-Cress), Watercress	Green-veined White	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	1 egg on underside of leaf. Eats leaves. ---	July or August; hatches in 3 days. 16 days. 14 days in July or for caterpillars of August, they overwinter till May.
Cabbages:- Charlock, Creeping Yellow-cress, Cuckoo Flower (Lady's Smock), Dame's Violet, Hedge-Mustard, Horseradish, Garlic-Mustard, Lady's Smock, Large Bittercress, Rock-cress (Common Winter-Cress), Yellow Rocket (Common Winter-Cress), Watercress , Wild Turnip	Orange Tip	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	1 egg laid in the tight buds and flowers. Eats leaves, buds, flowers and especially the seed pods. ---	May-June 7 days. June-July 24 days. August-May
Cherry with Wild Cherry, Morello Cherry and Bird Cherry	Large Tortoiseshell	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. Feeds on leaves. Hangs suspended from stem.	Hatches after 18-22 days in April. 30 days in May. 9 days in June.
Clovers 1, 2, 3	Common Blue	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. Eats buds and flowers. Base of food plant.	- - Spend winter at the base of the food plant. They resume feeding in March. 2 weeks.
Clovers 1, 2, 3	Pale Clouded Yellow	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	1 egg on leaf. Eats leaves.	10 days in May-June. July-August. 17 days in August-September.
Clovers 1, 2, 3	Clouded Yellow	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	1 egg on leaf. Eats leaves.	6 days in May-June. 30 days. 18 days in July-August.
Cocksfoot is a grass	Large Skipper	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	1 egg under leaf. Eats leaves. ---	11 Months 3 weeks from May
Cow-wheat (Common CowWheat, Field CowWheat)	Heath Fritillary	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. Feeds on leaves until end of August. Hibernates on dead leaves until March. Eats young leaves until June. ---	Hatches after 16 days in June. June-April 25 days in June.
Currants (Red Currant, Black Currant and Gooseberry)	Comma	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. Eats leaves. ---
Devilsbit Scabious	Marsh Fritillary	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. Feeds on leaves until late August. Hibernates on dead leaves until March. Eats leaves until May. ---	Hatches after 20 days in July. July-May. 15 days in May.
Dog Violet with Common Dog Violet, Heath Dog Violet and Wood Dog Violet	Silver-washed Fritillary	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	1 egg on oak or pine tree trunk Hibernates in a crevice in the bark of the tree trunk. Moves out of tree to eat Dog Violet leaves. On rock or twig.	15 days in July. August-March. March-May. Late June-July
Dog Violet with Common Dog Violet, Heath Dog Violet and Wood Dog Violet	Pearl-bordered Fritillary	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	1 egg on leaf or stem. Feeds on leaves until July. Hibernates on dead leaves until March. Eats young leaves until May. ---	Hatches after 15 days in May-June. July-May. 9 days in June.
Dog Violet with Common Dog Violet, Heath Dog Violet and Wood Dog Violet	Small Pearl-bordered Fritillary	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	1 egg on leaf or stem. Feeds on leaves until July. Hibernates in dead leaves until March. Eats young leaves until April. ---	Hatches after 10 days in May-June. June-April April-June.
Dogwood	Holly Blue	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. Eats flower bud. ---	7 days. 28-42 days. 18 days. Early September to Late April for second generation.
Elm and Wych Elm	Large Tortoiseshell	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. Feeds on leaves. Hangs suspended from stem.	Hatches after 18-22 days in April. 30 days in May. 9 days in June.
False Brome is a grass (Wood Brome, Wood False-brome and Slender False-brome)	Large Skipper	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	1 egg under leaf. Eats leaves. ---	... 11 Months 3 weeks from May
Foxglove	Marsh Fritillary	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. Feeds on leaves until late August. Hibernates on dead leaves until March. Eats leaves until May. ---	Hatches after 20 days in July. July-May 15 days in May.
Fyfield Pea	Wood White	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	1 egg laid on underside of leaflets or bracts. Eats leaves. ---	7 days in June. 32 days in June-July. July-May.
Garden Pansy	Small Pearl-bordered Fritillary	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	1 egg on leaf or stem. Feeds on leaves until July. Hibernates in dead leaves until March. Eats young leaves until April. ---	Hatches after 10 days in May-June. June-April April-June.
Gorse	Holly Blue	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. Eats flower bud. ---	7 days. 28-42 days. 18 days. Early September to Late April for second generation.
Heartsease	Queen of Spain Fritillary	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	1 egg laid under the leaf or on top of the flower. Eats leaves, then before pupating it eats the bloom and leaves of the pansies. ---	7 days in August. 23 days in August-September. 3 weeks in September
Hogs's Fennel	Swallowtail	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	1 egg on leaf. 5 or 6 eggs may be deposited by separate females on one leaf. Eats leaves, and moves to stems of sedges or other fen plants before pupating. ---	14 days in July-August. August-September. September-May.
Holly	Holly Blue	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. Eats flower bud. ---	7 days. 28-42 days. 18 days. Early September to Late April for second generation.
Honesty (Lunaria biennis)	Orange Tip	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	1 egg laid in the tight buds and flowers. Eats leaves, buds, flowers and especially the seed pods. ---	May-June 7 days. June-July 24 days. August-May
Honeysuckle	Marsh Fritillary	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. Feeds on leaves until late August. Hibernates on dead leaves until March. Eats leaves until May. ---	Hatches after 20 days in July. July-May. 15 days in May.
Hop	Comma	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. Eats leaves. ---
Horseshoe vetch	Adonis Blue Chalk-Hill Blue Berger's Clouded Yellow	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	1 egg under leaf. Eats leaves. --- 1 egg at base of plant. Eats leaves. --- 1 egg on leaf. Eats leaves. ---	1 then June-March or September to July 3 weeks. Late August-April. April-June 1 Month 8-10 days in Late May-June or Middle August-September June-July or September to October 8-15 days
Ivy	Holly Blue	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. Eats flower bud. ---	7 days. 28-42 days. 18 days. Early September to Late April for second generation.
Kidney Vetch	Chalk-Hill Blue	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis Butterfly	1 egg at base of plant. Eats leaves. --- Eats nectar.	Late August-April. April-June 1 Month 20 days
Lucerne	Pale Clouded Yellow Clouded Yellow	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	1 egg on leaf. Eats leaves. 1 egg on leaf. Eats leaves. ---	10 days in May-June. July-August. 17 days in August-September. 6 days in May-June. 30 days. 18 days in July-August.
Mallows	Painted Lady	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	1 egg on leaf. Eats leaves. ---	2 weeks 7-11days 7-11 days
Melilot	Clouded Yellow	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	1 egg on leaf. Eats leaves.	6 days in May-June. 30 days. 18 days in July-August.
Mignonettes	Small White	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	1 egg on underside of leaf. Eats leaves. ---	May-June and August. 7 days. 28 days 21 days for May-June eggs, or overwinter till March
Milk Parsley	Swallowtail	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	1 egg on leaf. 5 or 6 eggs may be deposited by separate females on one leaf. Eats leaves, and moves to stems of sedges or other fen plants before pupating. ---	14 days in July-August. August-September September-May
Narrow-leaved Plantain (Ribwort Plantain)	Heath Fritillary	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. Feeds on leaves until end of August. Hibernates on dead leaves until March. Eats young leaves until June. ---	Hatches after 16 days in June. June-April. 25 days in June.
Narrow-leaved Plantain (Ribwort Plantain)	Glanville Fritillary	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. Feeds on leaves until middle of August. Hibernates on dead leaves until March. Eats leaves until April-May. ---	Hatches after 16 days in June. June-April. 25 days in April-May.
Nasturtium from Gardens	Small White	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	1 egg on underside of leaf. Eats leaves. ---	May-June and August. 7 days. 28 days. 21 days for May-June eggs, or overwinter till March
Oak Tree	Silver-washed Fritillary	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	1 egg on tree trunk Hibernates in a crevice in the bark of the tree trunk. Moves out of tree to eat Dog Violet leaves. On rock or twig.	15 days in July. August-March. March-May. Late June-July
Mountain pansy, Seaside Pansy, Field Pansy and Cultivated Pansy.	Queen of Spain Fritillary	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	1 egg laid under the leaf or on top of the flower. Eats leaves of borage, sainfoin and heartsease, then before pupating it eats the bloom and leaves of the pansies. ---	7 days in August. 23 days in August-September 3 weeks in September
Pine Tree	Silver-washed Fritillary	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	1 egg on tree trunk. Hibernates in a crevice in the bark of the tree trunk. Moves out of tree to eat Dog Violet leaves. On rock or twig.	15 days in July. August-March. March-May. Late June-July
Plantains	Marsh Fritillary	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. Feeds on leaves until late August. Hibernates on dead leaves until March. Eats leaves until May. ---	Hatches after 20 days in July. July-May 15 days in May.
Poplar	Large Tortoiseshell	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. Feeds on leaves. Hangs suspended from stem.	Hatches after 18-22 days in April. 30 days in May. 9 days in June.
Restharrow	Common Blue	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. Eats buds and flowers. Base of food plant.	- - Spend winter at the base of the food plant. They resume feeding in March. 2 weeks
Rock-rose	Brown Argus	Egg, Caterpillar	1 egg under leaf. Eats leaves.
Sainfoin	Queen of Spain Fritillary	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	1 egg laid under the leaf or on top of the flower. Eats leaves, then before pupating it eats the bloom and leaves of the pansies. ---	7 days in August. 23 days in August-September 3 weeks in September
Common Sallow (Willows, Osiers)	Large Tortoiseshell	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. Feeds on leaves. Hangs suspended from stem	Hatches after 18-22 days in April. 30 days in May. 9 days in June.
Sea Plantain	Glanville Fritillary	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. Feeds on leaves until middle of August. Hibernates on dead leaves until March. Eats leaves until April-May. ---	Hatches after 16 days in June. June-April 25 days in April-May.
Snowberry	Holly Blue	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. Eats flower bud. ---	7 days. 28-42 days. 18 days. Early September to Late April for second generation.
Spindle-tree	Holly Blue	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. Eats flower bud. ---	7 days. 28-42 days. 18 days. Early September to Late April for second generation.
Stinging Nettle	Comma Painted Lady Peacock	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis Egg Caterpillar Chrysalis Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. Eats leaves. --- 1 egg on leaf. Eats leaves. --- Dense mass of 450-500 eggs on the under side of leaves over a 2 hour period. Eats leaves, and moves to another plant before pupating. ---	2 weeks in June. 7-11 days. 7-11 days. 14 days in April-May. 28 days. 13days.
Storksbill	Brown Argus	Egg, Caterpillar	1 egg under leaf. Eats leaves.
Thistles	Painted Lady	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	1 egg on leaf. Eats leaves. ---	2 weeks 7-11days 7-11 days
Trefoils 1, 2, 3	Clouded Yellow	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	1 egg on leaf. Eats leaves.	6 days in May-June. 30 days. 18 days in July-August.
Vetches	Common Blue	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. Eats buds and flowers. Base of food plant.	- - Spend winter at the base of the food plant. They resume feeding in March. 2 weeks
Vetches	Wood White	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	1 egg laid on underside of leaflets or bracts. Eats leaves. ---	7 days in June. 32 days in June-July. July-May.
Violets:- Common Dog Violet, Hairy Violet, Heath Dog-violet Pale Dog violet Sweet Violet	Dark Green Fritillary	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	1 egg on underside of leaf or on stalk. Hibernates where it hatches. Eats leaves. Base of food plant.	July-August for 17 days. Spends winter on plant until end of March. Eats leaves until end of May. 4 weeks.
Violets:- Common Dog Violet, Hairy Violet, Heath Dog-violet Pale Dog violet Sweet Violet	High Brown Fritillary	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	1 egg on stem or stalk near plant base. Feed on young leaves, stalks and stems ---	July to hatch in 8 months in March. 9 weeks ending in May. 4 weeks
Vipers Bugloss	Painted Lady	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	1 egg on leaf. Eats leaves. ---	2 weeks. 7-11days. 7-11 days
Whitebeam (White Beam)	Large Tortoiseshell	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. Feeds on leaves. Hangs suspended from stem.	Hatches after 18-22 days in April. 30 days in May. 9 days in June.
Wild Angelica	Swallowtail	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	1 egg on leaf. 5 or 6 eggs may be deposited by separate females on one leaf. Eats leaves, and moves to stems of sedges or other fen plants before pupating. ---	14 days in July-August. August-September. September-May
Willow (Bay Willow)	Large Tortoiseshell	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. Feeds on leaves. Hangs suspended from stem.	Hatches after 18-22 days in April. 30 days in May. 9 days in June.
Wood-Sage	Marsh Fritillary	Egg, Caterpillar Chrysalis	Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. Feeds on leaves until late August. Hibernates on dead leaves until March. Eats leaves until May. ---	Hatches after 20 days in July. July-May. 15 days in May.
Plants used by the Butterflies
Plant Name	Butterfly Name	Egg/ Caterpillar/ Chrysalis/ Butterfly	Plant Usage	Plant Usage Months
Asters in gardens	Comma	Butterfly	Eats nectar.
Runner and Broad Beans in fields and gardens	Large White Small White	Butterfly	Eats nectar	April-June or July-September. March-May or June-September
Aubretia in gardens	Clouded Yellow	Butterfly	Eats nectar	May-June or August till killed by frost and damp in September-November
Birch	Holly Blue	Butterfly	Eats sap exuding from trunk.	April-Mid June and Mid July-Early September for second generation.
Common Birdsfoot Trefoil	Chalk-Hill Blue Wood White Marsh Fritillary	Butterfly	Eats nectar.	20 days. May-June. 30 days in May-June.
Bitter Vetch	Wood White	Butterfly	Eats nectar	May-June
Bluebell	Holly Blue Pearl-bordered Fritillary Small Pearl-bordered Fritillary	Butterfly	Eats nectar	April-Mid June and Mid July-Early September for second generation. June. June-August.
Bramble	Comma Silver-washed Fritillary High Brown Fritillary	Butterfly	Eats nectar.	July-October. 7 weeks in July-August. June-August
Buddleias in gardens	Comma Peacock	Butterfly	Eats nectar.	July-October. July-May
Bugle	Wood White Pearl-bordered Fritillary Small Pearl-bordered Fritillary Heath Fritillary	Butterfly	Eats nectar	May-June. June. June-August. June-July.
Cabbage and cabbages in fields	Large White Small White Green-veined White Orange Tip	Butterfly	Eats nectar	April-June or July-September. March-May or June-September. A Month during May-June or second flight in late July-August. May-June for 18 days.
Charlock	Painted Lady	Butterfly	Eats nectar	July-October
Clovers 1, 2, 3	Adonis Blue Chalk-Hill Blue Painted Lady Peacock Large White Small White	Butterfly	Eats nectar.	1 Month during Mid-May to Mid-June or during August-September 20 days in August. July-October. July-May. April-June or July-September. March-May or June-September
Clovers 1, 2, 3	Pale Clouded Yellow Clouded Yellow Berger's Clouded Yellow Queen of Spain Fritillary	Butterfly	Eats nectar	May-June or August till killed by frost and damp in September-November May-June or August till killed by frost and damp in September-November. 1 Month in May-June or August till killed by frost and damp in September-November. May-September.
Cow-wheat (Common CowWheat, Field CowWheat)	Heath Fritillary	Butterfly	Eats nectar	June-July
Cuckoo Flower (Lady's Smock)	Wood White	Butterfly	Eats nectar	May-June
Dandelion	Holly Blue Marsh Fritillary	Butterfly	Eats nectar	April-Mid June and Mid July-Early September for second generation. 30 days in May-June.
Fleabanes	Common Blue	Butterfly	Eats nectar.	3 weeks between May and September
Germander Speedwell (Veronica chamaedrys - Birdseye Speedwell)	Heath Fritillary	Butterfly	Eats nectar	June-July
Greater Knapweed	Comma Peacock Clouded Yellow Brimstone	Butterfly	Eats nectar.	July-October. July-May. May-June or August till killed by frost and damp in September-November. 12 months
Hawkbit	Marsh Fritillary	Butterfly	Eats nectar	30 days in May-June.
Heartsease	Queen of Spain Fritillary	Butterfly	Eats nectar	May-September
Hedge Parsley	Orange Tip	Butterfly	Eats nectar.	May-June for 18 days.
Hemp agrimony	Comma	Butterfly	Eats nectar.	July-October
Horseshoe vetch	Adonis Blue Chalk-Hill Blue	Butterfly	Eats nectar.	1 Month. 20 days
Ivy	Painted Lady Brimstone	Butterfly	Eats nectar. Hibernates during winter months in its foliage.	July-October. October-July
Lucerne	Painted Lady Large White Small White Pale Clouded Yellow Clouded Yellow Berger's Clouded Yellow	Butterfly	Eats nectar	July-October. April-June or July-September. March-May or June-September May-June or August till killed by frost and damp in September-November. May-June or August till killed by frost and damp in September-November. 1 Month in May-June or August till killed by frost and damp in September-November
Marigolds in gardens	Clouded Yellow	Butterfly	Eats nectar	May-June or August till killed by frost and damp in September-November
Marjoram	Adonis Blue Chalk-Hill Blue Common Blue Clouded Yellow	Butterfly	Eats nectar.	1 Month during Mid-May to Mid-June or during August-September. 20 days in August. 3 weeks in May-September. May-June or August till killed by frost and damp in September-November
Michaelmas Daisies in gardens	Comma	Butterfly	Eats nectar.	July-October
Mignonettes	Large White Small White	Butterfly	Eats nectar	April-June or July-September. March-May or June-September
Narrow-leaved Plantain (Ribwort Plantain)	Heath Fritillary	Butterfly	Eats nectar	June-July
Nasturtiums in gardens	Large White Small White	Butterfly	Eats nectar	April-June or July-September March-May or June-September
Oak Tree	Holly Blue	Butterfly	Eats sap exuding from trunk.	April-Mid June and Mid July-Early September for second generation.
Primroses	Pearl-bordered Fritillary Small Pearl-bordered Fritillary	Butterfly	Eats nectar	June. June-August.
Ragged Robin	Wood White Heath Fritillary	Butterfly	Eats nectar	May-June. June-July.
Scabious	Painted Lady Peacock	Butterfly	Eats nectar	July-October. July-May
Sedum	Peacock	Butterfly	Eats nectar	July-May
Teasels	Silver-washed Fritillary	Butterfly	Eats nectar	7 weeks in July-August.
Thistles - Creeping Thistle, Dwarf Thistle, Marsh Thistle, Meadow Thistle, Melancholy Thistle, Milk Thistle, Musk Thistle, Seaside Thistle, Scotch Thistle, Spear Thistle, Tuberous Thistle, Welted Thistle, Woolly Thistle	Comma Painted Lady Peacock Swallowtail Clouded Yellow Brimstone Silver-washed Fritillary High Brown Fritillary Dark Green Fritillary Queen of Spain Fritillary Small Pearl-bordered Fritillary	Butterfly	Eats nectar.	July-October. July-October. July-May. May-July. May-June or August till killed by frost and damp in September-November. 12 months. 7 weeks in July-August June-August. July-August for 6 weeks. May-September. June-August.
Thymes	Common Blue	Butterfly	Eats nectar.	3 weeks between May and September
Trefoils 1, 2, 3	Adonis Blue Chalk-Hill Blue Glanville Fritillary	Butterfly	Eats nectar.	1 Month during Mid-May to Mid-June or during August-September 20 days in August. June-July
Vetches	Chalk-Hill Blue Glanville Fritillary	Butterfly	Eats nectar.	20 days in August. June-July.
Violets	Pearl-bordered Fritillary Small Pearl-bordered Fritillary	Butterfly	Eats nectar	June. June-August.
Wood-Sage	Heath Fritillary	Butterfly	Eats nectar	June-July
Apple/Pear/Cherry/Plum Fruit Tree Blossom in Spring	Peacock	Butterfly	Eats Nectar	April-May
Rotten Fruit	Peacock	Butterfly	Drinks juice	July-September
Tree sap and damaged ripe fruit, which are high in sugar	Large Tortoiseshell	Butterfly	Hibernates inside hollow trees or outhouses until March. Eats sap or fruit juice until April.	10 months in June-April
Wild Flowers	Large Skipper Brimstone Silver-washed Fritillary. Queen of Spain Fritillary	Butterfly	Eats Nectar	June-August 12 months. 7 weeks in July-August. May-September
Links to the other Butterflies:- Black Hairstreak Brown Hairstreak Camberwell Beauty Chequered Skipper Dingy Skipper Duke of Burgundy Essex Skipper Gatekeeper Grayling Green Hairstreak Grizzled Skipper Hedge Brown Large Blue Large Heath Long-tailed Blue Lulworth Skipper Marbled White Mazarine Blue Meadow Brown Monarch Northern Brown Argus Purple Emperor Purple Hairstreak Red Admiral Ringlet Scotch Argus Short-tailed Blue Silver-spotted Skipper Silver-studded Blue Small Copper Small Heath Small Mountain Ringlet Small Skipper Small Tortoiseshell Speckled Wood Wall Brown White Admiral White-letter Hairstreak			Topic - Wildlife on Plant Photo Gallery. Some UK native butterflies eat material from UK Native Wildflowers and live on them as eggs, caterpillars (Large Skipper eats False Brome grass - Brachypodium sylvaticum - for 11 months from July to May as a Caterpillar before becoming a Chrysalis within 3 weeks in May) chrysalis or butterflies ALL YEAR ROUND. Please leave a small area in your garden for wildflowers to grow without disturbance throughout the year for the benefit of butterflies, moths and other wildlife who are dependant on them. Butterfly Usage of Plants by Egg, Caterpillar, Chrysalis and Butterfly	Wild Flower Family Page (the families within "The Pocket Guide to Wild Flowers" by David McClintock & R.S.R. Fitter, Published in 1956 They are not in Common Name alphabetical order and neither are the common names of the plants detailed within each family. These families within that book will have their details described in alphabetical order for both the family name and its plants. The information in the above book is back-referenced to the respective page in "Flora of the British Isles" by A.R. Clapham of University of Sheffield, T.G. Tutin of University College, Leicester and E.F. Warburg of University of Oxford. Printed by Cambridge at the University Press in 1952 for each plant in all the families)
When you look at the life history graphs of each of the 68 butterflies of Britain, you will see that they use plants throughout all 12 months - the information of what plant is used by the egg, caterpillar, chrysalis or butterfly is also given in the above first column. With this proposed removal of all plants required for butterflies etc to live in and pro-create; at least once a year by the autumn or spring clearing up, the wildlife in public parks is destroyed as is done in every managed park in the world. Please leave something for the wildlife to live in without disturbance; rather than destroy everything so children can ride their bicycles anywhere they want when the park is open during the day and they are not at school. THE LIFE AND DEATH OF A FLAILED CORNISH HEDGE - This details that life and death from July 1972 to 2019, with the following result:- "Of the original 186 flowering species (including sub-species), the 5 colour forms and the 8 unconfirmed species, (193 flowering species in total) only 55 have persisted throughout the 35 years of flailing since 1972. Of these 55 species:- 3 species are unchanged. 11 species have disastrously increased. 41 species are seriously reduced in number, most by over 90%. Of these, 18 are now increasing under the somewhat lighter flailing regime. 13 are still decreasing, and 35 have only a few specimens (from 1-12 plants) left. Of the rest of the original species:- 37 species and 3 colour forms have disappeared, then reappeared after varying lengths of time. Of these, 20 have fewer than 6 plants, most of them only 1 or 2, and are liable to disappear again. Only 6 of the recovered species look capable of surviving in the longer term. 23 species have reappeared, then disappeared again due to being flailed before they could set seed or to being overcome by rank weeds. Only 3 species have reappeared for a second time, and one of these has since disappeared for the third time. 68 species and 2 colour forms disappeared and have never reappeared to date (2008). Of the 83 flowering species (excluding 11 rampant species) and 3 colour forms now present in the survey mile, around 50 are unlikely to survive there in the long term, certainly not in viable numbers, if flailing continues. Unless the degradation of habitat, high fertility and spread of ivy and other rampant weeds can be reversed, it appears highly unlikely that more than a dozen or so of the lost floral species can ever safely return or be re-introduced. The only birds sighted more than once so far this year along the mile have been magpie, rook, crow and buzzard, and a swallow (probably the same one each time) hunting between the hedges now and then at the sheltered eastern end of the mile. One wren heard June 21st, one blackbird seen June 27th (these also at the eastern end) and one greenfinch today July 31st. On this hot sunny high-summer day counted only 7 hedge brown butterflies (6 of them males), one red admiral and one large white. Half a dozen small bumblebees, two carder bees, half a dozen hoverflies of two common Eristalis species, one flesh fly, one scorpion fly and one dragonfly, Cordulegaster boltonii, not hunting, zooming straight down the road and disappearing into the distance. Only 8 butterfly species so far this year, and only one specimen each of five of them (red admiral, speckled wood, large white, ringlet and large skipper, the latter seen only once since 1976). Only small white, hedge brown and speckled wood have managed to appear every year since the flail arrived. For some years I have been noticing very small specimens particularly of hedge brown and speckled wood. This year nearly all the hedge browns seen in the mile ('all' being a dozen or so in total) are of this stunted size, some of the males appearing really tiny. I am wondering if this might be a response to general environmental stress, or due to inbreeding as flail-reduced numbers are so low. The hedge brown does not fly far from its hatching place so mating opportunity is now extremely limited. With the few species of insects now seen in the hedges there seems to be a high proportion of males to females, at least five to one. So far this year only a single moth has come to the house lights. It was a Drinker, and it killed itself against the bulb before it could be saved. September 21st. Most of the survey mile closely flailed today along both sides of the road. End note, June 2008. I hear spring vetch has been officially recorded somewhere in West Cornwall and confirmed as a presence in the county, so perhaps I can be permitted to have seen it pre-1972 in the survey mile. I wonder where they found it? It's gone from hedges where it used to be, along with other scarcities and so-called scarcities that used to flourish in so many hedges unrecorded, before the flail arrived. I have given careful thought to including mention of some of the plants and butterflies. So little seems to be known of the species resident in Cornish hedges pre-flail that I realise some references may invite scepticism. I am a sceptic myself, so sympathise with the reaction; but I have concluded that, with a view to re-establishing vulnerable species, it needs to be known that they can with the right management safely and perpetually thrive in ordinary Cornish hedges. In future this knowledge could solve the increasingly difficult question of sufficient and suitable sites for sustainable wild flower and butterfly conservation - as long as it is a future in which the hedge-flail does not figure. Times and attitudes have changed since the days when the flail first appeared on the scene. The plight of our once-so-diverse wildlife is officially recognised as a priority; agricultural grants may embrace conservation measures, and perhaps economic strictures will tend more to a live-and-let-live policy in future with less of the expensive, pointless and desecrating "tidying-up". We now have an enthusiastic generation keen to help nature recover its diversity, but often unsure as to how this is best achieved. [Please see CHL "Restoring Biodiversity in Cornish Hedges"] 21st September 2007. There is still widespread ignorance of the effects of such destructive machinery as the flail-mower and other rotary trimmers and strimmers. Few people but the elderly now remember or understand the life that ought to be abundant in the everyday hedges, verges, field margins and waste places. The simple remedy of returning to the clean-cutting finger-bar scythe used in late winter, trimming alternate sides of the hedge in different years, not trimming green herbaceous growth and leaving the cut material (mainly dead stems and twigs) on or near the hedge, is largely unrealised. This wildlife-friendly type of trimmer is still available from some suppliers. Cornwall County Council has changed from being (in this instance) the chief offender to employing said-to-be environmentally-aware officers concerned with reconciling conservation and development. In recent years the council has issued instructional leaflets about hedges and their wildlife, including one entitled Cornish Roadside Hedge Management (since altered, perhaps not entirely for the better). This leaflet largely embodied the principles that our petition of 1985 asked for. Ironically, it is no longer the council's employees who are carrying out the work. Although this advice is now available, it does not necessarily reach the farmers and contractors out on the job. The flails are still in destructive action at any time from June onwards, though on the whole the work does seem to be being done later rather than sooner. Some farmers are now correctly leaving it until January and early February, a good time to allot to road work while other farm jobs may have to wait for drier weather. Most farmers, despite the bad publicity they tend to suffer, truly wish to do the best they can for their wildlife. Sadly for all, the flail is still the universally-available tool. Those ignorant of the flail's real effects may imagine that 'sensitive' use of it is all right, as some common plant and insect species return temporarily and a few others increase when the work is switched to the less damaging time of year and done lightly. In the longer term, this is delusive; even in winter an unacceptable number of individuals are killed at every flailing and the habitat still inexorably degrades. No matter how or when or how seldom the flail is used, species continue to die out. Until naturalists and environmentalists understand the catastrophic and cumulative effects of the flail they will continue to say they don't know why, despite all well-intentioned efforts, the numbers and diversity of wild flowers, songbirds, bats, butterflies, moths and bumblebees are still falling. Nature lovers have to stop thinking mainly in terms of schemes to benefit a handful of charismatic species at special sites, and start looking at what the flail and other rotary mowers have done to thousands upon thousands of acres of the British countryside and billions upon billions of its most essential, ordinary inhabitants. It has struck at the major heart of the core existence of our native species, slaughtering them wholesale in that very sanctuary of the hedges and verges. These species had already mostly gone from the rest of the local area; the hedges where they had all taken refuge were their last resort. The remnants of species and their precarious survivors are still being wiped out, smashed to death every time the flail is used. It is the utterly wrong tool for the job and it has to be scrapped. A brand-new flail-mower operating in February 2008. Right time of year for trimming, wrong kind of trimmer. As long as it is manufactured and turned out into the roads and fields the flail will decimate wild flowers, massacre the small creatures remaining in the hedges and verges, destroy their habitat and ruin the ancient structure of Cornwall's hedges. Since the last yellowhammer flew across the road in 1980, I have never seen another while walking the survey mile. Since the last grasshopper in July 1981, I have never seen or heard another in these hedges. Since all the other species this diary recorded absent disappeared, they have not been seen again except in the few instances stated in the text. Most of the remaining species are declining. Fewer than half of them are likely to survive in the longer term if present trends continue. The long-vanished flowering species are likely never to return, as repeated flailing before seeding has exhausted their dormant seed stocks. The survey mile is typically representative of a majority of Cornish roadside hedges. The photographs - in the pdf in their website - illustrating many of the flowering species lost were not taken in the survey hedge,for the obvious reason that they were no longer there. Most were taken in the house's wild garden adjoining, while those that did not grow there were obtained only with extreme difficulty, by searching all over West Penwith in a roughly thirty-mile radius for un-flailed pockets of survival. Along the roadside hedges, in this whole distance I found just one or two plants or patches of only a few of the species sought - common toadflax, field scabious, tufted vetch, scentless mayweed, red clover, self-heal - species that before the flail were so commonly seen along the whole length of hundreds of hedges in West Cornwall, now growing only where for some unusual reason of situation the flail had missed. Some of the photographs of invertebrate species killed out by the flail in the survey mile were taken in the garden adjoining, where, despite nurturing since pre-flail days, the majority have now disappeared due to over-predation. In the survey mile this year, for the first time since 1992, the hedges remained un-flailed throughout the summer, giving a few common invertebrates the chance to reappear. No adult moth is illustrated because only half a dozen individuals were seen during the whole summer season of 2007, unfortunately at moments when the camera was not in my hand or they were fluttering out of reach. The drinker caterpillar alone was found posing beautifully and goes down to posterity as the only visible surviving moth larva noted in the survey mile this year, illustrating the millions of his kind killed by the flail. Along this one typical mile of Cornish lane alone my records show that the flail has been the outright death or caused the persisting non-appearance of 90 flowering herbaceous species, 5 shrub species, 20 grass species, 60 moss species, 40 bird species, 23 butterfly species, 250 larger moth species, many scores of other invertebrate species, and untold thousands of individuals. It has condemned the hedge itself to a long-term, silent, living death, wrecked its antique stone construction and destroyed its great beauty. Along the whole of the estimated 30,000 miles of Cornish hedges the deaths of individual plants and creatures from flail-battering and the loss of their generations represent truly astronomical figures. The degradation of habitat resulting from flailing prevents revival in most species even where a few individuals manage to escape the physical impact of the flails. Although the effect in Cornwall with its solid hedge-banks and their more complex ecology may be worse than with the English hedgerow, the flail-induced wildlife crisis is nation-wide - and still almost universally unrecognised or unacknowledged. There is no hope of recovery for our countryside wildlife until the flail type of machine is consigned to the black museum of history. To achieve this it will probably have to be banned by law. The finger-bar scythe has to be reinstated and any trimming (except where needed for road-junction or access visibility) must be carried out in winter, the later the better between November 1st and February 28th. Trimming must take away the woody scrub growth on the sides of the hedge, leaving the herbaceous growth on the sides and the bushes on the top untouched. Only then can the flail-ruined hedges and verges begin to see a real return to some kind of healthy and abundant life." CHECK-LIST OF TYPES OF CORNISH HEDGE FLORA by Sarah Carter of Cornish Hedges Library:- "This check-list is a simple guide to the herbaceous plants typically indicating different habitat types found in the Cornish hedge. The short lists are of typical plants, not complete species lists for the habitat. Many of the plants in the Typical Hedge list also appear in the other types of hedge. Areas of intermediate population where location or physical conditions begin to change and habitats overlap are not included. Hedge Type:- Typical Cornish Hedge (woodland-edge/ heathland mixture) Coastal Hedge Moorland/ Heathland Hedges Woodland Hedge Wet Hedge (marsh or ditch) Stone Hedge (Earth capping but with stone core) Typical garden escapes in Cornish Hedges Typical species rampant in flail-damaged hedges Titles of papers available on www.cornishhedges.co.uk:- Advice for Working on Roadside Hedges Building Hedges in Cornwall Building Turf Hedges Building and Repairing Cornish Stone Stiles Butterflies, Moths and Other Insects in Cornish Hedges Check-list for Inspecting New or Restored Hedges in Cornwall Check-list of Types of Cornish Hedge Flora Code of Good Practice for Cornish Hedges Comments on the © Defra Hedgerow Survey Handbook (1st Edition) Comments on the © Defra Hedgerow Survey Handbook (2nd Edition) Cornish Hedges in Gardens Cornish Hedges on Development and Housing Sites Gates and Gateways in Cornish hedges Geology and Hedges in Cornwall Glossary of some Cornish Words used in the Countryside Hedges in the Cornish Landscape How to Look After a Cornish Hedge How Old is That Cornish Hedge? Literature Sources Mediaeval Hedges in Cornwall (450AD - 1550) Modern Hedges in Cornwall (1840 - present day) Mosses, Lichens, Fungi and Ferns in Cornish Hedges Pipe-laying and Other Cross-country Works Involving Hedges Post-Mediaeval Hedges in Cornwall (1550 - 1840) Prehistoric Hedges in Cornwall (5,000BC - 450AD) Repairing Cornish Hedges and Stone Hedges Repairing Turf Hedges Risk Assessment Guidance for working on Cornish Hedges Roadside Hedges and Verges in Cornwall The Curse of Rabbits in Cornish Hedges The Life and Death of a Flailed Cornish Hedge Trees on Hedges in Cornwall Unusual Old Features in Cornish Hedges Who Owns that Cornish Hedge? Wildlife and the Cornish Hedge THE GUILD OF CORNISH HEDGERS is the non-profit-making organisation founded in 2002 to support the concern among traditional hedgers about poor standards of workmanship in Cornish hedging today. The Guild has raised public awareness of Cornwall's unique heritage of hedges and promoted free access to the Cornish Hedges Library, the only existing source of full and reliable written knowledge on Cornish hedges."

UK Wildflower botanical name index in Botanical Names. UK Wildflower common name index in Common Names. Recommended Plants for Wildlife in different situations:-
The following Container Gardening for Wildlife is from Appendix 1 of The Wildlife Garden Month-by-Month by Jackie Bennett. Published by David & Charles in 1993. ISBN 0 7153 0033 4 :- "It is quite possible to entice wildlife into even the most unpromising paved areas by utilising containers. Several mini-habitats can be created by growing a carefully selected range of trees, shrubs and flowers in pots, tubs, window boxes and hanging baskets. If the space is enclosed by walls or high fences, it is important to let the passing wildlife know that this area is a source of food and shelter. Aim to add height and greenery with a small native tree grown in a good-sized wooden barrel and add 1 or 2 berry-bearing shrubs. Clothe the walls in climbers for nesting birds and introduce nectar-rich flowers for the insects. Finally, put up a nesting box amongst the climbers and find a place for a feeding table in winter and a bird bath in the summer. Despite the lack of grass and full-size trees, a surprising range of creatures will begin to inhabit this new garden.	DON'T FORGET HERBS Herbs are amongst the most useful wildlife plants, including borage, mint, chives and rosemary, and are ideally suited to container growing. Do allow them to flower though, even at the expense of a continuous supply of leaves for cooking. FOUR-SEASON WINDOW BOX Try planting a window box with the following selection of evergreens, perennials, bulbs and bedding plants, for an all-the-year-round display. WINTER Ivy, hellebores, snowdrops SPRING Ivy, yellow crocus and grape hyacinths SUMMER Ivy, white alyssum and dwarf lavender AUTUMN Ivy, meadow saffron. APPENDIX 2 has a Traditional Wildlife Garden Plan and a Garden Plan for Urban Wildlife.	STEP-BY-STEP CONTAINER PLANTING Make sure the container has adequate drainage holes and that they are free of obstruction. Put a layer of broken clay pots or crockery over the base of the container. Half-fill with a multi-purpose potting compost. Place the plants in position and fill around the root ball with more compost. Press down firmly. Water well and add more compost if necessary, to bring the level up to 1 inch (2.5 cm) below the rim of the container. Use the self-watering containers and potting mix detailed in the Vegetable Gallery Site Map Page rather the the pots or multi-purpose potting compost detailed above. Provide an outside water tap and watering can, so that you can irrigate the pots without traipsing the can through the house. NOTE To boost the wildlife habitat in a concrete yard, make a pile of logs in one corner. As the wood begins to break down, it will house beetles, spiders and slugs - great food for birds. The cool, damp habitat may be secluded enough to offer daytime cover to a toad, or possibly frogs and newts from a nearby pond.	RECOMMENDED PLANTS TREES Rowan (Sorbus aucuparia 'Fastigiata') Dwarf form (120 inches (300 cms)). Flowers for insects and berries for birds. Willow (Salix caprea 'Pendula') Weeping form (120 inches (300 cms)). Catkins for insects, young leaves for caterpillars. SHRUBS Buddleia davidii (120 inches (300 cms)) Nectar from flowers for butterflies. Cotoneaster 'Hybridus Pendulus' (120 inches (300 cms)) Berries and flowers. Hawthorn (Craaegus monogyna) (180 inches (500 cms)) can be pruned hard to keep it within bounds. Secure nesting sites for birds. Berries and flowers. Holly (Ilex aquifolium) (to 180 inches (500 cms)) a male and female bush are needed to be sure of berries. Nesting cover for birds. Lavender (Lavendula angustifolia) Scented and attracts bees, flowers. --->	CLIMBERS Honeysuckle (Lonicera periclymenum) Summer wall and fence cover. Has nectar and flowers. Ivy (Hedera helix) All-year-round wall and fence cover. Has nectar and flowers. FLOWERS FOR NECTAR Alyssum Candytuft (Iberis) Nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus). Nicotiana Night-scented stock (Matthiola bicornis). Pot marigold (Calendula officinalis). PLAN OF A SMALL ENCLOSED PATIO WITH CONTAINERS Exit doorway on left with window on its left and window box outside window. Group of pots between door and window. Another group of pots in corner after window with one of the pots containing a tree. A wall basket between that corner and the corner on the right where a barrel with ivy is growing up the wall. A bench is half-way down to the bottom right corner with its pot group and a pile of logs. A bird table is half-way across to the bottom left corner with its large pot." - Use a 4 inch (10 cm) plastic pipe through the wall to allow non-flying creatures access from the public area outside to your garden area.
The following Growing Marsh Plants in Containers is from The Wildlife Garden Month-by-Month by Jackie Bennett. Published by David & Charles in 1993. ISBN 0 7153 0033 4 :- Where space is limited, or simply as an alternative to conventional patio plants, it is possible to grow moisture-loving species in pots and tubs. The container needs to retain water - a terracotta pot which has a porouus structure would not be suitable, but a glazed ceramic pot would work well. Plastic pots can also be used - like the self-watering containers detailed in the Vegetable Gallery Site Map Page. Choose a pot at least 12 (30) deep and 16 (40) across. The best way to ensure the compost stays wet is to stand the whole pot in a substantial tray of water, so that the marsh can draw up moisture as it is needed (there is a water reservoir in the self-watering pots detailed above). Ordinary plant saucers will not hold enough water, and something deeper like a large kitchen roasting tin, which may not look so elegant, will do the job more effectively. Spring is an ideal time to plant moisture-loving plants. Fill the container with a loam-based potting compost, insert the plants and water until soaked. Choose plants that won't outgrow the limited space too quickly. Include a selection of tall-growing species like purple loosestrife (Lythrum salicaria), sweet flag (Acorus calamus) and ragged robin (Lychnis flos-cuculi) alongside smaller plants like bogbean (Menyanthes trifoliata) and x-lips (Primula elatior). Avoid lady's smock (Cardamine pratensis) and water mint (Mentha aquatica) which can spread too quickly. Keep the water in the base tray topped up, using rainwater collected in a water butt where possible. Keeping the tray full of water is particularly important in long, hot, dry spells, although in spring and autumn the naturall rainfall will probably be adequate. Cut back the foliage in the autumn to prevent the pots becoming choked with decaying material. Repot the plants every 2 or 3 years when they start to outgrow their containers. In the second year after planting, the plants may have used up the nutrients in the compost and will need an extra boost from a slow-release fertiliser.	MOISTURE-LOVING NATIVE PLANTS Plant / Use of Plant	Height	Flower Colour	Flowering Time
	Bog Bean (Menyanthes trifoliata) / Moths	10 (25)	White	Mid-Summer
	Globe Flower (Trollius europaeus /	24 (60)	Yellow	Early Summer
	Oxlip (Primula elatior) / Bee plant, Butterfly nectar plant	6 (15)	Pale Yellow	Late spring
	Primrose (Primula vulgaris) / Butterfly nectar plant	4 (10)	Pale Yellow	Mid-spring
	Purple Loosestrife (Lythrum salicaria) / Bee plant, Butterfly nectar plant	36 (90)	Pink-purple	Summer
	Ragged Robin (Lychnis flos-cuculi) / Butterfly nectar plant	24 (60)	Pink	Summer
	Sweet Flag (Acorus calamus) /	24 (60)	Green	Mid-summer
	Bog Arum (Calla palustris) / Naturalised in places in Britain	6 (15)	Yellow-green	Summer
	Hemp Agrimony (Eupatorium cannabinum) / Bee plant, Butterfly nectar plant	48 (120)	Reddish-pink	Late summer
	Lady's Smock (Cardamine pratensis) / Attractive to Hoverflies, Caterpillar food plant, Butterfly nectar plant	9 (23)	Pale pink	Spring
	Marsh Betony (Stachys palustris) / Bee plant	12 (30)	Purple	Summer
	Marsh Cinquefoil (Potentilla palustris) /	9 (23)	Dark red	Summer
	Marsh St John's Wort (Hypericum elodes) /	6 (15)	Pale yellow	Summer
	Meadowsweet (Filipendula ulmaria) /	36 (90)	Creamy-white	Summer
The following Planning a Herb Bed or Garden is from The Wildlife Garden Month-by-Month by Jackie Bennett. Published by David & Charles in 1993. ISBN 0 7153 0033 4 :- TOP HERBS FOR WILDLIFE Although there are a huge number of culinary and medicinal herbs which can be grown, not all are relevant to wildlife. The herbs in the fourth column describe the best herbs for attracting garden wildlife. PREPARING THE SITE The best location for a herb bed is one which gets a lot of sun and where the soil is already well drained. Most herbs dislike getting waterlogged roots and can tolerate almost drought conditions - in fact, those like rosemary and marjoram with Mediterranean ancestry, improve in taste, scent and flower growth in a sunny location. If the soil is not ideal (heavy clay for instance), it is possible to add some coarse grit to aid drainage. However, it might be smpler and more productive to grow the herbs in pots - like the self-watering containers detailed in the Vegetable Gallery Site Map Page, putting in a good layer of gravel before adding the compost. The ground should be dug thoroughly, removing any weeds --->	and large stones. Lay brick paths, edging tiles or wooden dividers before planting the herbs. HERBS FOR LESS-THAN-IDEAL CONDITIONS Although most herbs prefer a sunny position in a well-drained soil, there are some which will tolerate shade and a heavier soil. The resulting plants may not do as well but there is no need to give up the idea of growing herbs altogether and the wildlife will still find them useful. Mint (Mentha) can tolerate shade although it does tend to grow towards the light and become crooked and leggy. Tansy (Tanecetum vulgare) is an excellent native plant for butterflies and it is not too fussy about growing conditions. Lovage (Levisticum officinale), a relative of the fennel, is also worth growing for its young leaves which add a celery flavour to soups and stews. It will grow quite adequately in a dark, damp spot and the flowers produced, although not as abundant as they should be, will provide nectar for hoverflies, wasps and bees. Comfrey (Symphytum x uplandicum) should be included purely for its leaves which are a reliable food source for moth and butterfly caterpillars. Lemon balm (Melissa officinalis) is another strong grower in less than ideal conditions. Its white or pale yellow flowers rely on bees for their pollination. --->	Garden chervil (Anthriscus cerefolium) is an annual herb, greatly prized for the flavour of its parsley-like leaves. It will tolerate some shade, but prefers a well-drained soil. Great burnet (Sanguisorba officinalis) is a tall native herb that prefers a damp habitat and a heavy clay soil. The tiny crimson flowers appear from mid-summer to early autumn. Angelica (Angelica archangelica), originally from central Europe, is widely naturalised in Britain. It will do well in a shady spot in damp soil and has huge seedheads in early autumn. PLANTING AND MAINTENANCE CALENDAR Late Summer - prepare site Autumn - Plant shrubs and pot-grown perennials Spring - Sow seeds of annuals Late Spring - Sow seeds of biennials Summer - Keep beds free of weeds; water container plants. Adas Colour Atlas of Weed Seedlings by J.B Williams and J.R. Morrison provides photos to the 40 most common weeds afflicting gardens and arable farm land. ISBN 0-7234-0929-3 Instead of snipping off the flowers as they appear, leave a few plants of parsley, mint, marjoram and lemon balm to flower naturally. Many more insects will visit the plants and consequently the herb garden will be a richer feeding ground for birds.	TOP HERBS FOR WILDLIFE Herb - Angelica (Angelica archangelica) Type - Biennial wildflower value - Flowers - hoverflies, bees. Leaves - butterflies, caterpillars. Seedheads - greenfinches, bluetits Borage (borago officinalis) Annual Flowers - bees Chives (Allium schoenoprasum) Perennial Flowers - bees, butterflies Comfrey (Symphytum uplandicum) Perennial Leaves - moths, butterflies Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare0 Perennial Flowers - bees, wasps, hoverflies Leaves - caterpillars Hyssop (Hyssopus officinalis) Perennial Flowers - lacewings, bees Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) Shrub Flowers - bees, butterflies Marjoram (Origanum vulgare) Perennial Flowers - bees, butterflies Mint (Mentha - all types) Perennial Flowers - bees, butterflies, moths Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) Shrub Flowers - bees, butterflies, hoverflies Thyme (Thymus - all types) Perennial / shrub Flowers - bees, butterflies	The following Recommended Bulbs is from The Wildlife Garden Month-by-Month by Jackie Bennett. Published by David & Charles in 1993. ISBN 0 7153 0033 4 :- RECOMMENDED BULBS Name - Bluebell (Scilla non-scripta) Use of plant - Bee plant, Butterfly nectar plant Site - Hedgerows, woodland Depth of soil above the bulb - 2 (5) Crocus (Purple) (Crocus tomasinianus) Butterfly nectar plant Lawns, borders, under deciduous trees. 3 (8) Crocus (Yellow) (Crocus chrysanthus) Butterfly nectar plant Lawns, borders, under deciduous trees. 3(8) Grape Hyacinth (Muscari neglectum) Bee plant, Butterfly nectar plant. Lawns, borders. 3 (8) Ramsons Garlic (Allium ursinum) Butterfly nectar plant. 3 (8) Snowdrop (Galanthus nivalis) Under deciduous trees, shady borders. 2 (5) Wild Daffodil (Narcissus pseudonarcissus) Bee plant. Lawns, banks. 3 (8) Winter Aconite (Eranthis hyemalis) Under deciduous trees, shady borders. 2 (5)
The following Incorporating Wildfflowers into an existing lawn is from The Wildlife Garden Month-by-Month by Jackie Bennett. Published by David & Charles in 1993. ISBN 0 7153 0033 4 :- INCORPORATING WILDFLOWERS INTO AN EXISTING LAWN There are basically 2 ways of doing this, both of which can be implemented in early autumn. The first involves sowing seed, the second planting pot-grown plants. Whichever method is chosen, the best results will be obtained with a lawn that is already patchy and weak in growth. The lush green grass of a well-fed lawn is likely to swamp any wildflowers that are introduced. SOWING WILDFLOWER SEED INTO AN EXISTING LAWN Begin by giving the lawn a thorough raking with a metal rake to remove moss, dead grass and leaves. Water thoroughly and sow the seed at the manufacturer's recommended rate. ADDING POT-GROWN WILDFLOWERS TO AN EXISTING LAWN After the last cut of the season is a good time to put in pot-grown wildflowers. More and more nurseries are stocking wildflowers in pots, but remember to choose species which will suit your intended regime of meadow maintenance. Place the plants in groups, with individual plants 8-16 (20-40) apart. Remove a plug of earth the same size as the pot, using a bulb planter or trowel. Knock the plants from their pots and place them in the holes, firming down the soil and watering well afterwards.	TYPICAL MEADOW MIXTURE 20% Flowering native perennials (as below) 40% Crested dog-tail (native grass) 30% Fescue (non-native grass) 10% Bent (lawn grass) SPRING-FLOWERING MEADOW PERENNIALS Bladder campion (Silene vulgaris) Cowslip (Primula veris) Lady's bedstraw (Galium verum) Meadow buttercup (Ranunculus acris) SUMMER-FLOWERING MEADOW PERENNIALS Betony (stachys officinalis) Bird's foot trefoil (Lotus corniculatus) Field scabious (Knautia arvensis) Greater Knapweed (Centaurea scabiosa) Meadow cranesbill (Geranium pratense) Musk mallow (Malva moschata) Ox-eye daisy (Leucanthemum vulgare) Rough hawkbit (Leontodon hispidus) Selfheal (Prunella vulgaris) Lindum Turf sell wildflower Mats for your new wildflower lawn instead of part of your old lawn as well as Lindum's Wildflower Mat on Lindum's extensive green roof substrate for use as a Wildflower Green Roof or could be used to create a wildflower lawn on a back garden, whose ground is currently covered in concrete, tarmac, brick or stone.	The following Establishing a 'No Go' Area is from The Wildlife Garden Month-by-Month by Jackie Bennett. Published by David & Charles in 1993. ISBN 0 7153 0033 4 :- It is important to nominate a part of the garden as a 'no-go' area for humans, which can be left deliberately untidy. Usually this is some spot well away from the house and preferably shielded by shrubs or trees, but it might equally be behind a garden shed or garage. THE WOODPILE Old untreated timber or unwanted logs can be piled up to provide shelter for a range of creatures. Choose a shady spot to prevent the wood from drying out in the sun. If possible, use a mixture of native woods such as elm, oak or ash which will guarantee a wider range of insect species. Logs 6-9 (15-23) in diameter make a good pile. The first wildlife to inhabit the pile will probably be fungi in the early autumn, but in time it will become home to spiders, beetles, wood wasps, solitary bees, slugs and snails. These will then attract bird predators, particularly wrens and blackbirds, who will pick over the pile in search of a meal. The insects will also provide food for wood mice, voles and hedgehogs. First-year newts, after leaving the pond, may well spend large amounts of time in the damp shelter of a log pile. ---->	GROWING NETTLES FOR BUTTERFLIES Stinging nettles are the caterpillar food plants for commas, peacocks, red admirals, and small tortoiseshells who all rely on nettle leaves and shoots for their survival. If there is an existing nettle patch, this may need to be contained with a fence, wall or path. Better still, clumps of nettles can be transferred to large tubs or barrels sunk into the ground to prevent the roots from encroaching into the garden proper. As the emerging caterpillars prefer fresh, new leaves to feed on, it is a good idea to cut back half the patch in early or mid-summer to encourage new growth. This is particularly important for commas and small tortoiseshells who regularly have 2 broods a year - the first in the spring, the second in mid-summer. The adults will seek out the new shoots to lay their eggs. Nettles can be introduced into the garden if they are not growing naturally. In late winter, dig up some roots about 4 (10) long which are bearing yound shoots. Bury the roots in pots of garden soil and keep cutting back the shoots to 3 (7.5). By late spring the new plants can be put out into the untidy area. The life-cycle of many butterflies extends over much of the year, so if you can put the plants that are used in its 4 stages in that untidy area, then it is more likely that you will see the butterfly, since YOU WILL NEVER BE TIDYING UP THAT NO-GO AREA. ---->	LEAF PILES AND HEDGEHOG HABITATS if hedgehogs are to take up residence in the garden, they need a dry, secure place for hibernation from late autumn to early spring. A pile of dead leaves or garden prunings heaped into a corner will often be acceptable, but it is also possible to contruct a hibernation 'box'. Use an upturned wooden box (untreated wood) and cut an entrance out of one of the side panels, 4-5 (10-12) square. This is large enough to allow the hedgehog to enter but small enough to prevent dogs or foxes getting in. A covered entrance tunnel can also be constructed using 2 rows of house bricks stood on their sides and a plank of wood. This helps to keep the interior of the box dry, but is not essential. Cover the box with a sheet of polythene to keep out the rain, and a mound of dry leaves or brushwood to disguise the exterior. Add a handful of straw or dry leaves as bedding. HABITAT BOOSTERS Asheet of corrugated iron does not look very attractive, but if you happen to have one lying around, it is worth keeping. As the sun warms the metal, the 'tunnels' beneath become inviting resting quarters for slow worms and grass snakes. Equally, an old paving slab laid over a hollow in the ground and in a shady spot makes a damp hiding place for frogs and toads.
The following Planting in Gravel and Paving is from The Wildlife Garden Month-by-Month by Jackie Bennett. Published by David & Charles in 1993. ISBN 0 7153 0033 4 :- Many plants enjoy the dry growing conditions and refected warmth of gravel, stone chippings or paving. It is relatively easy to incorporate native species into existing paving schemes or to lay areas of gravel. MAKING A GRAVEL BED The underlying soil should be well-drained and gritty. If it is too heavy, mix it with equal parts of rock chippings or gravel. If the ground area is concrete/ tarmac/ stone/ paver or brick, cover the area with a layer of equal parts of top dressing and stone chippings to a 2 (5cm) depth, before continuing as below. Cover the area with a layer of sand 1 (2.5) deep. Finish the bed with a 1 (2.5) layer of gravel or 0.25 (0.5) stone chippings. Water plants well before removing them from their pots. Use a narrow trowel to make holes the same size as the root ball and firm them in gently. Water new plants thoroughly and sprinkle more gravel over the surface if necessary	PLANTING IN PAVING If new paths or patios are to be laid, it is worth considering leaving some gaps between the paving stones as planting pockets. If the stones are already laid, it is still possible to incorporate a wide range of species. The simplest way is to take up some of the stones, perhaps create a chequeboard effect. This is better done in a random pattern, rather than taking out every other stone. The earth beneath the stones shuld be workable and weed-free. Dig out the earth to a depth of 6-9 (15-23) and mix with an equal quantity of gravel or stone chippings. Replace the soil mixture and plant in the normal way. Brick paths or patios can be planted in the same way. Take out any bricks that are already damaged or crumbling and fill the gaps as above.	PLANTS FOR PAVING AND GRAVEL The following plants will thrive in a shallow, well-drained soil in full sun and will self-seed easily: Broom (Cytisus scoparius) Native or naturalised species, Bee plant Common Toadflax Native or naturalised species, Bee plant Globe Thistle (Echinops sphaerocephalus) Bee plant, Butterfly nectar plant Great Mullein (Verbascum phlomoides) Native or naturalised species, Large number of associated insects Hawkweed (Hieracium murorum) Native or naturalised species Lady's Bedstraw (Galium verum) Native or naturalised species Maiden Pink (Dianthus deltoides) Native or naturalised species Thyme (Thymus species) Especially the native Thymus praecox Bee plant Trailing St John's Wort (Hypericum humifusum) Native or naturalised species White Campion (Silene latifolia) Native or naturalised species Yarrow (Achillea millefolium) Native or naturalised species	The following Constructing a Rock Bank is from The Wildlife Garden Month-by-Month by Jackie Bennett. Published by David & Charles in 1993. ISBN 0 7153 0033 4 :- If the garden has no manmade rock garden or natural outcrops of rock for planting, it is possible to make a rock bank to provide a useful wildlife habitat. This is a simple construction and far less costly than a full-scale rock garden. Stack the stones randomly to form a double-sided wall to the desired height and length. Between each layer of stones, add a mixture of stone chippings or gravel and loam potting compost (this makes a good growing medium for rock plants, but if not available any poor, stony garden soil can be substituted). There are better soil mixtures detailed for many rock garden plants in Colour Wheel Rock Gallery. Leave some gaps between the stones without any soil, to allow access to the interior for small mammals and creatures. Lay more stones or rocks across the top of the structure to form a 'lid'. The planting pockets can be planted with any of the rock or wall plants listed in the next column and the column below it.	RECOMMENDED PLANTS FOR ROCK BANKS AND GARDENS Plant - Cheddar Pink (Dianthus gratiano-poliatanus) Flower - Early Summer Height - 8 (20) Wildlife value - Moths, butterflies Common Pink (Dianthus plumarius) Summer 8 (20) Bees Hairy Thyme (Thymus praecox) Summe 3-4 (8-10) Bees Harebell (Campanula rotundifolia) Late summer 12 (30) Bees Hebe 'Autumn Glory' Autumn 24-36 x 24-36 (60-90 x 60-90) Butterflies Hebe 'Carl Teschner' Summer 12 x 24-36 (30 x 60-90) Hoverflies, bees Herb Robert (Geranium robertianum) Summer 12 (30) Bees Ling (Heather) (Calluna vulgaris) Late summer 12-24 x (30-60 x ) Ground cover for birds, grass snakes and slow worms Purple Saxifrage (Saxifraga oppositifolia) Summer 3 (8) Butterflies, bees Rock Rose Bees, insects Spring Gentian Butterflies, bees
The following Planting a Native Hedge is from The Wildlife Garden Month-by-Month by Jackie Bennett. Published by David & Charles in 1993. ISBN 0 7153 0033 4 :- Different types of hedges were planted for different purposes: a double hedge would mark an important boundary whilst a hedge designed to contain livestock would be particularly impenetrable at the base. Almost incidentally they became shelters and pathways for wildlife, harbouring birds, mammals and insects. In the garden, a hedge of native species can serve both as a wildlife provider and as an effective division between neighbouring plots. CHOOSING THE SPECIES The use of only 1 species in a hedge as a wildlife corridor is limited. A mixed hedge provides a much wider resource and a greater number of animal and flower species will soon become associated with it. A balanced hedge might include a large proportion of one of the mainstay species such as hawthorn, which forms a dense, thorny structure, as well as blossoms and berries. This may be interspersed with 4 or 5 other species which flower and fruit at different times, and should include at least 1 evergreen to provide shelter in winter.	TREES/SHRUBS SUITABLE FOR HEDGING Alder Buckthorn (Frangula alnus) Deciduous, fruit Beech (Fagus sylvatica) Slow-growing, deciduous, autumn colour Blackthorn (Prunus spinosa) Deciduous, blossom, fruit Crab Apple (Malus sylvestris) Deciduous, blossom, fruit Dog Rose (Rosa canina) Deciduous, blossom, hips Elm (Ulmus procera) Deciduous Field Maple (Acer campestre) Deciduous, autumn colour Hawthorn (Crataegus monogyna) Deciduous, blossom, berries Hazel (Corylus avellana) Deciduous, catkins, nuts Holly (Ilex aquifolium) Slow-growing, evergreen, berries Wild Privet (Ligustrum ovalifolium) Quick-growing, evergreen Yew (Taxus baccata) Slow-growing, evergreen	HOW TO PLANT A HEDGE Choose two-year-old seedlings, which are large enough to handle, but should not need staking. Mark out the length of the hedge with canes and string. It does not have to be a straight line, a curving hedge works just as well. Dig a trench in front of the line, 24 (60) wide and 18 (45) deep, running the entire length of the proposed hedge. Remove weed roots and large stones whilst digging. Add a layer of organic matter (garden compost or well-rotted manure) and mix with the loose soil at the bottom of the trench. Set the plants, 12-18 (30-45) apart and at the same depth as they were in the nursery (shown by the soil mark on the stem), adding more soil to the bottom of the trench, if necessary, to ensure the plant will sit at the right depth. Holding the plant upright, fill around the roots with loose soil, until it reaches the soil mark, firming it down well. IMMEDIATE AFTERCARE Water the new plants thoroughly, making sure the water soaks down around the roots. Cut back the top and side growths by at least one third - this will encourage side branching and bushy growth.	WILDLIFE USES FOR HEDGING Caterpillars of brimstone butterflies feed on alder buckthorn. Blackthorn, hawthorn, hazel and privet provide nectar for many species of butterfly. Thrushes, dunnocks, garden warblers and finches use the hedgerow for nesting Hedgehogs, voles and woodmice shelter and feed in the hedge bottom. Hawthorn, blackthorn and holly provide berries for birds in winter	FLOWERING WALL PLANTS Small-leaved Cotoneaster (Cotoneaster microphyllus) Fruit / berries / nuts for birds / mammals Hoary Cinquefoil (Potentilla argentea) Butterfly nectar plant, Bee plant Houseleek (Sempervivum tectorum) Large number of associated insects Ivy-leaved Toadflax (Cymbalaria muralis) Butterfly nectar plant, Bee plant London Pride (Saxifraga x urbinum) Butterfly nectar plant Red Valerian (Centranthus ruber) Native or naturalised species Round-leaved Cranesbill (Geranium rotundifolium) Native or naturalised species Stonecrops Biting stonecrop (sedum acre) White stonecrop (Sedum album) Butterfly nectar plants Wallflower (Cheiranthus cheiri) Butterfly nectar plant Wall Rocket (Diplotaxis tenuifolia) Bee plant Arabis (Arabis albida) Bee plant, Butterfly nectar plant. Yellow Corydalis (Corydalis lutea)
The following Planting a Native Hedge is from The Wildlife Garden Month-by-Month by Jackie Bennett. Published by David & Charles in 1993. ISBN 0 7153 0033 4 :- MAINTENANCE Each spring, whilst the hedge is still forming, prune the top and side shoots by one third. Do not leave the central stem to grow to the desired height of the hedge before cutting back. Regular pruning will ensure that by the time the hedge does reach its final height, it will have developed a strong, dense framework It is a good idea to apply a mulch of garden compost, leaf mould or chopped bark around the plants each spring (if you have trees growing besides the public road on its verge, then in the autumn when its leaves fall to the ground below, you can use your rotary mower to mow them up and put them as a mulch in the the hedge bottom.). This will discourage weeds (which may strangle the young hedge) and form a good environment for hedgerow plants and microscopic creatures. Adas Colour Atlas of Weed Seedlings by J.B Williams and J.R. Morrison provides photos to the 40 most common weeds afflicting gardens and arable farm land. ISBN 0-7234-0929-3	CLIPPING The main difference between conventional hedge care and those managed for wildlife is in the clipping. Wildlife hedges should never be clipped before nesting is completely finished; usually it is safe to do so in late summer or early autumn, but in doubt, leave until the winter. WILDLIFE TO EXPECT Blackbirds, thrushes, dunnocks, sparrows, greenfinches and bullfinches all prefer the dense, protected growth of a hedge to any other nesting site. They will be joined in the summer, by shy, ground-feeding wrens, who search the leaf litter beneath the hedge for spiders and other insects. Many other garden birds like tits and robins will use the hedge simply as a convenient perch, for picking off caterpillars from the leafy growth. The hedge foliage is a particularly good breeding ground for moths such as the privet hawkmoth, garden spiders who leave their mark in the shape of finely woven webs and the often heard, but rarely seen, bush cricket. At ground level, the wildlife residents are most likely to be hedgehogs, wood mice and bank voles, although toads and frogs often hide in the shelter of a hedge bottom. In time a native hedge will become a busy wildlife corridor offering shelter, food and a convenient route from one part of the garden to another	HEDGEROW FLOWERS Although the soil at the base of the hedge may be poor, a surprising number of wildflowers seem to thrive here. The orientation of the hedge will determine which flowers may be grown. South-facing hedges receive a good deal of sun whilst north faces may be in almost complete shade. Choose a selection of plants to suit the position of your hedge. Most of the hedgerow flowers tolerate a dry, poor soil, but 1 or 2 such as primroses and lesser celandines need to be kept moist. Unless the hedge is by a stream or pool, it is unlikely that their needs will be met; they would be happier in a damp ditch or marshy area. Pot-grown plants can be planted out any time from spring to autumn. In the first 2 years of the hedge's growth, avoid putting in the taller plants, such as sweet cicely, which may compete with the new hedging. It is also advisable to wait until the hedge is well-established (5 years or more) before putting in hedgerow climbers, like traveller's joy (Clematis vitalba). Its scrambling habit is ideal for dense, well-grown hedges, but it can easily strangle younger plants. It is best to use small, healthy plants for the hedge bottom and not seedlings, whose roots may not be sufficiently developed to cope with the poor soil. Insert the new plants with a trowel and water thoroughly. Water regularly for the first 2 weeks - particularly if there is a hot, dry spell.	RECOMMENDED NATIVE HEDGEROW FLOWERS Plant - Betony (Stachys officinalis) Type - Perennial Position -Sun or shade Soil - Any Wildlife value - bees, butterflies Bluebell (Scilla non-scripta) Bulb Sun or shade Any Bees, butterflies Common Dog Violet (Viola riviana) Perennial Part shade Any Caterpillar food plant for fritillary butterflies Garlic Mustard (Alliaria petiolata) Biennial Part shade Any Caterpillar food for orange tips, tortoiseshells and whites butterflies Greater Stitchwort (Stellaria holostea) Perennial Part shade Any Bees, moths, butterflies Hedge Wounwort (Stachys sylvatica) Perennial Part shade Any Bees, butterflies Hedgerow Cranesbill (Geranium pyrenaicum) Perennial Part shade Any Lesser Celandine (Ranunculus ficaria) Perennial Part shade Damp Bees, butterflies	Primrose (Primula vulgaris) Perennial Sun or shade Damp Butterflies (whites) Red Campion (Silene Dioca) Perennial Sun or shade Any Butterflies Selfheal (Prunella vulgaris) Perennial Sun or shade Any Bees, butterflies Sweet Cicely (Myrrhis odorata) Perennial Sun or shade Any Bees White Deadnettle (Lamium maculatum album) Perennial Sun or shade Any Bees
The Bumblebee Pages website is divided into five major areas: • Bumblebees which deals solely with bumblebees, and was the original part of the site. • Invertebrates, which deals with all the other invertebrates. • Homework answers, where you'll find hints and tips to common questions set as biology, ecology, botany, zoology homework, there are also definitions of common terms in biology. • Window box gardens, this was started when we were exiled to central Paris, and 2 north-facing window boxes were all the garden available, however it was amazing the wildlife those window boxes attracted. You'll find plant lists, hints and tips, etc. • Torphins, this is the village in north-east Scotland where we are now located. In this part of the site you can find photographs of invertebrates found locally, where to see them and when, also links to pages with more detailed information.
Plants for moths (including larval food plants and adult nectar sources) from Gardens for Wildlife - Practical advice on how to attract wildlife to your garden by Martin Walters as an Aura Garden Guide. Published in 2007 - ISBN 978 1905765041:- Angelica - Angelica archangelica Barberry - Berberis vulgaris Birch - Betula species Blackthorn - Prunus spinosa Bramble - Rubus species Centaury - Centaurium species Common knapweed - Centaurea nigra Cowslip - Primula veris Dandelion - Taraxacum offcinale Dock - Rumex species Evening primrose - Oenothera species Foxglove - Digitalis purpurea Goldenrod - Solidago canadensis and Solidago virgaurea Harebell - Campanula rotundifolia Heather - Calluna vulgaris Hedge woundwort - Stachys sylvatica Herb Bennet (wood avens) - Geum urbanum Herb Robert - Geranium robertianum Honeysuckle - Lonicera periclymenum Lady' Bedstraw - Galium verum Lemon balm - Melissa officinalis Lime - Tilia species Maiden pink - Dianthus deltoides			Marjoram - Origanum officinale Meadow clary - Salvia pratensis Meadowsweet - Filipendula ulmaria Mullein - Verbascum species Nettle - Urtica dioica and Urtica urens Oak - Quercus robur and Quercus petraea Ox-eye daisy - Leucanthemum vulgare Plantain - Plantago species Poplar (and aspen) - Populus species Primrose - Primula vulgaris Purple loosestrife - Lythrum salicaria Ragged robin - Lychnis flos-cuculi Red campion - Silene dioica Red clover - Trifolium pratense Red valerian - Centranthus ruber Rock rose - Helianthemum species Sea kale - Crambe maritima Sweet rocket - Hesperis matronalis Toadflax - Linaria species Tobacco - Nicotiana species Traveller's joy - Clematis vitalba Viper's bugloss - Echium vulgare White campion - Silene alba Wild pansy - Viola tricolor Willow - Salix species Yarrow - Achillea millefolium and a chapter on Planning the Wildlife Garden.
Wildlife-friendly Show Gardens With around 23 million gardens in the UK, covering 435,000 hectares (An acre is about 0.405 hectares, 1 hectare is 10000.0 square metres); gardens have great potential as wildlife habitats. Pre-planting you may require pre-building work on polluted soil. Then, if you soil is clay, consider these 8 problems caused by building house on clay or with house-wall attached to clay, before actioning - The eight-point plan for a wildlife-friendly garden:- Plants, Plants, Plants - The greater the number and variety of plants, the more wildlife you will attract - and this shows how roots of plants are in control in the soil. Don’t Just Plant Anything - British natives attract the greatest variety of wildlife, closely followed by species from temperate regions of Europe, Asia and North America. See above for the full list by Botanical name and another by Common Name of all the native plants in the UK in 1965 with their habitats. Add Water - A pond of any size will boost the variety of creatures in your garden. Dead Matters - Dead and decaying vegetation is a vital resource for many creatures and for the soil. Re-use your garden prunings, mowings, and dug up non-weed plants as recommended in the Planting a Native Hedge cell above in "Recommended Plants for Wildlife in different situations" table as a mulch. Soil Structure - The interaction between clay domains, organic matter, silt and sand particles diagram shows how these particles are bonded together in larger units called ‘aggregates’ to start the formation of soil. Without replacing Soil Nutrients, the soil will break up to only clay, sand or silt. Perfect general use soil is composed of 8.3% lime, 16.6% humus, 25% clay and 50% sand, and why you are continually losing the SOIL STRUCTURE so your soil - will revert to clay, chalk, sand or silt. To prevent this destruction of the soil, there is this Action Plan for YOU to DO with your soil. Build a Home - Provide bird and bat boxes etc. Feed the Birds and other creatures too. Don’t Use Pesticides - All pesticides are designed to kill. Don’t Put Wildlife in a Ghetto - Make your entire garden wildlife-friendly and a home for wildlife – it will be worth it! Many of our gardens at Natural Surroundings demonstrate what you can do at home to encourage wildlife in your garden:- • The Wildlife Garden • The Rill Garden • The Orchard • The Butterfly Garden • The Bee Garden. Bees under Bombardment from Bee Happy Plants Ltd. There are certain times when pollen or nectar are needed: Early spring is a time of great need for pollen (which triggers egg-laying by the queen); All season from early spring to late Autumn nectar is needed, though there is a 'crisis period' from the end of June until September (in the South of the UK) when adult bees' numbers are at a peak and their need for nectar is vital. This summer period is one we should concentrate on providing copious amounts of nectar in our gardens. • The Wildlife Pond • Reptile Refuge • Creepy-crawly Garden

The following table shows the linkages for the information about the plants
described in Sanders' Encyclopedia of Gardening in The Gardeners' Golden Treasury, revised by A. G. L Hellyer F.L.S, Editor of 'Amateur Gardening', (thirty-first impression of original published in 1895) was published in 1960 by W. H. & L. Collingridge Limited,
between:-

Stage 1 - Garden Style Index Gallery (in this Table) and Stage 1 Fragrant Plants (in Table on left), then
Stage 2 - 3 Infill Plants Index Galleries (in Table on right), then
Stage 3a - All Plants Index Gallery with each plant species in its own Plant Type Page followed by choice from Stage 4a, 4b, 4c and/or 4d REMEMBERING THE CONSTRAINTS ON THE SELECTION FROM THE CHOICES MADE IN STAGES 1 AND 2 (in this Table)
Stage 3b - All2 Plants Index Gallery for Alpines without a Garden for your health and productivity (in this Table)
Stage 4a - 12 Bloom Colours per Month Index Gallery (in Table on right)
Stage 4b - 12 Foliage Colours per Month Index Gallery (in Table on right) with
column for Deciduous / Herbaceous plants with the same foliage colour during their growing season and
column for Evergreen plants with the same foliage colour during the entire year
Stage 4c - Cultivation, Position, Use Index Gallery (in Table on left)
Stage 4d - Shape, Form Index Gallery (in Table on left)

STAGE 1 GARDEN STYLE INDEX GALLERY
It would be useful if when you decide to change your garden that you use a uniform garden style throughout your garden and the GARDEN STYLE INDEX GALLERY aims to provide pointers.
The new pages (April 2016) in the gallery will have a suitable list of plants on each page (as that plant gets further detailed in the ALL PLANTS INDEX GALLERY), then each row containing that plant name in the GARDEN STYLE INDEX GALLERY will also be updated. I aim to input details of plants starting with A in alphabetical order to Z.

Private Garden Design:-
What is your Budget and What are the purposes for your garden?
Designing for a purpose: Areas which require answers before answering your Designing for a Purpose Questionaire.
Then, do the Site Survey with Photographs, before putting the Current Garden Design on paper or in your computer.
Using the Broad Design elements of Scale, which Garden Style to use:-
Low Maintenance Garden Style, Cottage Garden Style, Wildlife Garden Style or Japanese Garden Style and the
Hard and Soft Landscaping elements, create the Broad Proposed Design. Then, the Detailed Design of each Hard Landscaping item followed by the Soft Landscaping elements: The Soil, changing the Microclimate; and the
Plant Selection is influenced by the Colour Wheel, with Plant Quantities determined by time to establish versus width between plants and Companion Planting will provide helpful neighbouring plants
or
Click on text in cells below to jump to that page describing that data.

Container
Gardening at my work-place

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Do you want to garden and grow plants?

Cannot be bothered.
If you wish to improve your productivity and health, then, plant an Alpine Pan in your work area or at home using the information within Alpines without a Garden by Lawrence D. Hills, using these pages:-

Potted
House-plant

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No
Garden

At Home with Gard-ening Area

Yes

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Balcony Garden or Roof Garden

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Grow flowers for flower arranging and vegetables on Balcony Garden or Roof Garden

Pan Plant Back-grou-nd Colour

STAGE 3b
ALL2 PLANTS INDEX GALLERY
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Conservatory Gardening

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Outside Garden
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Pan, Trough and Window-Box Odds and Sods
1, 2, 3, 4, 5,
6, 7, 8, 9, 10,
11, 12, 13, 14,
15

The beginner's dozen for the small pan

Plants for the pan gar-den

Stovehouse for Tropical Plants

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An extra dozen for the larger pan

Kinds of Pan Plants that may be split up and tucked in Corners and Crevices

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Miniature trees and shrubs for pan

The leafy soil pan

The gritty soil pan

The Limy Soil Plan

Blue Flower Colour Pan Plants

Lilac, Violet and Purple Flower Colour Pan Plants

Reds, Carm-ines Flower Colour Pan Plants

Pinks Flower Colour Pan Plants

White Flower Colour Pan Plants and Bicol-ored

Yellow Flower Colour Pan Plants

Blue Flower Colour Trough Plants

Violet, Lilac and Purple Flower Colour Trough Plants

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Reds and Carm-ines Flower Colour Trough Plants

Pinks - all shades Flower Colour Trough Plants

Yellow Flower Colour Trough Plants

White and Cream Flower Colour Trough Plants

Bi-colour-ed Flower Colour Trough Plants

Feb Flower Season Pan

Mar Flower Season Pan

Apr Flower Season Pan

May Flower Season Pan

Jun Flower Season Pan

Jul Flower Season Pan

Aug Flower Season Pan

Sep Flower Season Pan

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Oct Flower Season Pan

Nov Flower Season Pan

Pans for Semi-shade

Pans for In-doors

Mini-ature Pot

Feb Flower Season Trough

Mar Flower Season Trough

Apr Flower Season Trough

May Flower Season Trough

Jun Flower Season Trough

Jul Flower Season Trough

Aug Flower Season Trough

Sep Flower Season Trough

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Oct Flower Season Trough

Nov Flower Season Trough

Dec Flower Season Trough

Bulb Pan

Bulb Cover-ing Carp-eters

Trough and Window-box plants 1, 2, 3, 4, 5

Trough and Window-Box Background Colour

Pan Plant
Alpines without a Garden

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You need to know the following:-
1. How much time per week are you prepared to look after your garden or prepared to pay someone else to do it for you?
2. How much are you are prepared to spend on creating your garden and then on its maintenance for its feeding and replacement of its plants and hard landscaping?
3. In order for you to go into your garden, there must be mystery in it, so that from any position in the house you cannot see all the garden, otherwise you will not be tempted to go out into it.
4. You must decide what garden style you are going to use THROUGHOUT the garden and make sure of using 3. the mystery in it as well.
5. What plants do you want to keep in your existing garden and incorporate into your new garden?
6. What Human Problems do you have and what Site Problems are there?

A) Bee Pollinated Plants for Hay Fever Sufferers List leads onto the
B) Bee Pollinated Bloom in Month galleries and
C) extra Plants for Hay Fever Sufferers.

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Human Prob-lems
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Blind,
Deaf,
in a Wheelchair, or
you cannot bend easily

Garden Style, which takes into account the Human Problems above

Classic Mixed Style

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Cottage Garden Style

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Naturalistic Style

Formal English Garden

Mediterranean Style

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Meadow and Corn-field

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Paving and Gravel inland,
Coastal Conditions near the sea, Seashore with shingle/sand

Problem Sites within your chosen Garden Style from the above

Exposure to Wind

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Excess Shade

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Exce-ssively Dry Shade

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Exce-ssively Hot, Sunny and Dry Site is suitable for Drought Resistant Plants

Excessively Wet Soil - especially when caused by poor drainage

Control of Pests (Aphids, Rabbits, Deer, Mice, Mole, Snails) / Disease by Companion Planting in Garden

Whether your Heavy Clay or Light Sandy / Chalk Soil is excessively Alkaline (limy) / Acidic or not, then there is an Action Plan for you to do with your soil, which will improve its texture to make its structure into a productive soil instead of it returning to being just sand, chalk, silt or clay.

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Problems caused by builders:- 1. Lack of soil on top of builders rubble in garden of just built house.
2. Clay soil of Garden slopes towards house with no drainage of this rainwater by the house wall.

In planning your beds for your garden, before the vertical hard-landscaping framework and the vertical speciman planting is inserted into your soft landscaping plan, the following is useful to consider:-
1. The ground plan usually depends upon 1 or more unalterable existing features. The position of the doors of the house will dictate the positions of paths, the shortest route to the kitchen may indicate the best place for a paved area for eating and drinking out of doors, or the kept trees/shrubs may indicate what garden style is used.
2. Rules of Proportion -
A. A border should be roughly 1/2 as wide as the hedge or wall behind it.
B. The proportion of planted areas to paved or turfed areas should be 1/3 to 2/3, or a 1/4 to 3/4, not 1/2 and 1/2.
C. Within a bed or border, unless a 2-dimensional pattern on the ground is the objective, the height and bulk of the plants should be varied to avoid monotony; it is particularly important to provide strong planting, in terms of either height or bulk or both, at either end of a long bed.
D. The ground surface provides a background to the plants that is as important as the hedges, walls or fences that surround it. Grass is perhaps the most satisfying carpet to use, the cool green forming a restful antidote to the dancing colours of the flowers. Use different coloured pea-shingle inside Cedar Gravel for people in wheelchairs, or infirm in their legs or who suffer from Hay Fever.

Reasons for stopping infilling of Sense of Fragrance section on 28/07/2016 at end of Sense of Fragrance from Stephen Lacey Page. From September 2017 will be creating the following new pages on Sense of Fragrance using Scented Flora of the World by Roy Genders.
ISBN 0 7090 5440 8:-

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After you have selected your vertical hard-landscaping framework and the vertical speciman plants for each bed or border, you will need to infill with plants taking the following into account:-

Sense of Fragrance from Roy Genders

Fragrant Plants:-
Trees and Shrubs with Scented Flowers 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6
Trees and Shrubs with Scented Leaves 1, 2, 3, 4, 5
Trees and Shrubs with Aromatic Bark 1, 2, 3
Shrubs bearing Scented Flowers for an
Acid Soil 1, 2, 3, 4
Shrubs bearing Scented Flowers for a
Chalky or Limestone Soil 1, 2, 3, 4
Shrubs bearing Scented Flowers for a
Sandy Soil 1, 2, 3
Herbaceous Plants with Scented Flowers 1, 2, 3
Herbaceous Plants with Scented Leaves 1, 2, 3
Annual and Biennial Plants with Scented Flowers or Leaves 1, 2
Bulbs and Corms with Scented Flowers 1, 2, 3, 4, 5
Scented Plants of Climbing and Trailing Habit 1, 2, 3
Winter-flowering Plants with Scented Flowers 1, 2
Night-scented Flowering Plants 1, 2
Scented Aquatic Plants.
Plants with Scented Fruits.
Plants with Scented Roots 1, 2
Trees and Shrubs with Scented Wood.
Trees and Shrubs with Scented Gums.
Scented Cacti and Succulents.
Plants bearing Flowers or Leaves of Unpleasant Smell 1, 2

Flower Perfume Group:-
Miscellaneous Group with scents - Balm, Brandy, Cedar, Cloying, Cowslip, Cucumber, Damask Rose, Daphne, Exotic, Freesia, Fur-like, Gardenia, Hay-like, Heliotrope, Honeysuckle, Hops, Hyacinth, Incense-like, Jasmine, Laburnham, Lilac, Lily of the Valley, Meadowsweet, Mignonette, Mint, Mossy, Muscat, Muscatel, Myrtle-like, Newly Mown Hay, Nutmeg, Piercing, Primrose, Pungent, Resinous, Sandalwood, Sassafras, Seductive, Slight, Soft, Stephanotis, Sulphur, Starch, Sweet, Sweet-briar, Tea-rose, Treacle and Very Sweet.

Flower Perfume Group:-
Indoloid Group.
Aminoid Group with scent - Hawthorn.
Heavy Group with scents -
Jonquil and
Lily.
Aromatic Group with scents - Almond,
Aniseed, Balsamic,
Carnation, Cinnamon, Clove,
Spicy and
Vanilla.
Violet Group.
Rose Group.
Lemon Group with scent -
Verbena.
Fruit-scented Group with scents -
Apricot,
Fruity,
Green Apple,
Orange, Pineapple,
Ripe Apple , Ripe Banana and
Ripe Plum.

Flower Perfume Group:-
Animal-scented Group with scents -
Cat,
Dog,
Ferret,
Fox,
Goat,
Human Perspiration,
Musk,
Ripe Apple and
Tom Cat.
Honey Group.
Unpleasant Smell Group with scents -
Animal,
Fetid,
Fishy,
Foxy,
Fur-like,
Garlic,
Hemlock,
Manure,
Nauseating,
Perspiration,
Petrol,
Putrid,
Rancid,
Sickly,
Skunk,
Stale Lint
Sulphur and
Urinous,

Leaf Perfume Group:-
Turpentine Group.
Camphor and Eucalyptus Group.
Mint Group.
Sulphur Group.
Indoloid Group.
Aminoid Group.
Heavy Group.
Aromatic Group.
Violet Group.
Rose Group.
Lemon Group.
Fruit-scented Group.
Animal-scented Group.
Honey Group.

Scent of Wood, Bark and Roots Group:-
Aromatic Group.
Turpentine Group.
Rose Group.
Violet Group.
Stale Perspiration Group.

Scent of Fungi Group:-
Indoloid Group.
Aminoid Group.
Sulphur Group.
Aromatic Group.
Rose Group.
Violet Group.
Fruit Group.
Animal Group.
Honey Group

Sense of Sight

Emotion of
Hot /Cool; Calm / Agitated

Emotion of
Low-key / High Key

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Emotion of
Inviting
/ Forbidding

Emotion of Intellectual versus Emotional

Sense of Touch

Sense of Taste

Sense of Sound

STAGE 2 INFILL PLANT INDEX GALLERIES 1, 2, 3 for
lists of plants of 1 plant type for 1 cultivation requirement is in Table on right

STAGE 3a ALL , 3 AND 4 PLANTS INDEX GALLERIES with pages of content (o)
Click on Blue or underlined text to jump to page comparing flower thumbnails of that blue colour in the
Other Plant Photo Galleries. RedPP is Red, Pink, Purple and Other is Unusual or Other Flower Colour.

Plant Type
with links to Other Plant Photo Galleries

ABC

DEF

GHI

JKL

MNO

PQR

STU

VWX

Alpine in Evergreen Perennial,
Herbaceous Perennial and Rock Garden

1 (o)

Aquatic

Annual/ Biennial

1 (o)

Bamboo

Bedding, 25
RHS Mixed Border Beds 75 and
Flower Shape, Flower Colour and Bedding Plant Use

1 (o)

Blue

1

Green

1

Orange

1 (o)

Pink

1

RedPP

1

Purple

1

White

1

Yellow

Bicolour

Other Flower Colours

White / Colour Bicolour

Bulb, 746 with Use, Flower Colour/Shape of
Allium / Anemone, Colchicum / Crocus, Dahlia, Gladiolus, Narcissus and Tulip

1 (o)

Blue

1

RedPP

1

White

1 (o)

Yellow

1

Other

Climber 71 Clematis, 58 other Climbers with Use, Flower Colour and Shape

1 (o)

Blue

1

Orange

1

Pink

1

RedPP

1

White

1

Yellow

1

Other

Conifer

1 (o)

Deciduous Shrub 43 with Use and Flower Colour

1 (o)

Blue

1

RedPP

1

White

1

Yellow

1

Other

Deciduous Tree

1 (o)

Evergreen Perennial 104 with Use, Flower Colour, Flower Shape and Number of Petals

1 (o)

Blue

1 (o)

RedPP

1

White

1

Yellow

1

Other

Evergreen Shrub 46, Semi-Evergreen Shrub and Heather 74 with Use and Flower Colour

1 (o)

Blue

1 (o)

1

RedPP

1

White

1

Yellow

1

Other

Evergreen Tree

1 (o)

Fern with 706 ferns
within 21 types and 41 uses

Grass

1 (o)

Herbaceous Perennial 91,
RHS Mixed Border Beds 176 and
Peonies 46 with Flower Colour/Shape

1

Blue

1 (o)

1

RedPP

1

White

1

Yellow

1

Other

Herb

Odds and Sods

Rhododendron, Azalea, Camellia

Rose with 720 roses within Flower Colour, Flower Shape, Rose Petal Count and Rose Use

1

Orange

1

Pink

1

RedPP

1

White

1

Yellow

1

Other

Soft Fruit

Sub-Shrub

Top Fruit

Vegetable

Wildflower 1918 with
Plants used by Egg, Caterpillar, Chrysalis and Butterflies in the UK
I am inserting the plants described in Sanders' Encyclopedia of Gardening into STAGE 3a ALL PLANTS INDEX GALLERY

1

Blue

1

Green

1

Orange

1

Pink

1

Red

1

Purple

1

White

1

Yellow

Finally, you might be advised to check that the adjacent plants to the one you have chosen for that position in a flower bed are suitable; by checking the entry in Companion Planting - like clicking A page for checking Abies - and Pest Control page if you have a pest to control in this part of the flower bed.
Companion Planting - A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K, L, M, N, O, P, Q, R, S, T, U, V, W, X, Y, Z
Pest Control using Plants

STAGE 1 GARDEN STYLE INDEX GALLERY
The planning a Rose Garden chapter from Rose Gardens by Jane Fearnley-Whitingstall ISBN 0 7011 3344 9 and
Plant Solutions by Nigel Colborn provides information for this gallery.

STAGE 2 INFILL PLANT INDEX GALLERIES 1, 2, 3 Reference books for these galleries in Table on left

STAGE 3a ALL PLANTS INDEX GALLERY
In addition to these 10 galleries, there are links to the Other Plant Photo Galleries in the table above like Bulb , which have plant descriptions accessed by clicking a flower thumbnail in its flower comparison page. Click the respective flower colour - like Green - to change page to that flower colour comparison page. Then, you can also choose these other plants.
It will also state the Plant Combinations for each plant from The Ulimate Visual Guide to Successful Plant Harmony - The Encyclopedia of Planting Combinations by Tony Lord ISBN 1-55209-623-8

STAGE 4C CULTIVATION, POSITION, USE GALLERY
Some extra details about the Cultivation Requirements of Plant:- Outdoor /Garden Cultivation, Indoor / House Cultivation, Cool Green-house Cultivation with artificial heating in the Winter, Conservatory Cultivation with heating throughout the year, and Stovehouse Cultivation with heating throughout the year for Tropical Plants

Since 2006, I have requested photos etc from the Mail-Order Nurseries in the UK and later from the rest of the World. Few nurseries have responded.
I worked for a lady, who with her husband took 35 mm slides of plants in the 1960's and 1970's. She allowed me to digitise some of her Kodachrome slides, which I have used in my website. I discovered that at least the green colour of the foliage became very much darker over that period of years to 2008, by comparing wildflower photos from her slides with digital photos supplied by a current Wildflower mail-order nursery, so I stopped creating my Foliage Galleries.
I bought myself a camera some years ago and started taking photos, some of which have been put into the website. I started taking photos of the Heathers at the Royal Horticultural Society at Wisley garden. I have displayed the Heathers foliage in closeup since their leaves are 2mm long and in macro-scale in the Heather Galleries - sometimes the foliage colour at the terminal end of the foliage stem is only a few leaves, whereas others have the same foliage colour throughout the stem. I discovered that some of the heathers did not have the correct plant label, since the flower colour did not correspond with the flower colour in the literature. I was informed that since kids have free rein, that perhaps they move the plant labels. Since, I cannot rely that the heather plant label next to the heather plant is valid, I have stopped taking photos of those heathers.
This leaves a small problem, especially since very few gardens open to the public have their plants labelled so that the public can use the data on their label to buy that named plant from a nursery or garden centre. Currently (June 2018) I insert photos from Wikimedia Commons as well as my own.
I have found the above book - which does not contain any colour plant photos. Since it had the following experts help in creating it, I have decided to use its information in these 10 galleries to help the public:-

T.W. Sanders Editor of Amateur Gardening in 1895.
A.J Macself Editor of Amateur Gardening in 1926 - both Sanders and Macself had worked entirely to the handlists published by the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew
A.G.L. Hellyer in this work of revision and also in checking the all-important cultural notes sought the help of experts in the various classes of plant:-
- Mr S.A. Pearce, Assistant Curator at the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew undertook the revision of those genera of plants which in this country are mainly grown under glass.
- Mr Will Ingwersen dealt with the Rock plants,
- Mr N. Catchpole made himself responsible for trees and shrubs;
- Mr G.A Phillips for herbaceous plants,
- Mrs Francis Perry for water plants,
- Mr A.J. Macself for ferns,
- Mr E. Cooper for orchids,
- Mr J.S Dakers for annuals,
- Miss Doreen Crowther for fruit and vegetables

with the aid of further information from other books, magazines and cross-checking on the internet.
In this edition of the book Sander's Encyclopaedia, the individual soil mixtures to grow plants have been retained, for it was considered that many gardeners might still wish to use them in certain circumstances. The John Innes mixtures may be substituted wherever desired. Details of these individual mixtures will be put into these galleries.

The influence of trees on House Foundations in clay soils:-

Minimum distance (metres) between structure and centre of trunk to avoid direct damage to a structure from future growth of the base of the trunk and tree roots: -

Water demand of different conifer and broadleafed tree species – with 5.6 being moderate water demand and 8 being the highest:-