Ivydene Gardens Library Catalogue: Practical Projects Books: - A-H |
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Each entry, where possible, has an International Standard Book Number (ISBN) to assist you in locating a copy. In order to assist the design process for a garden, the Library has been split into the following order of abstraction:-
The Reference Library and the Practical Projects categories will assist with construction. Private garden maintenance can then be assisted by the following:-
Please note that entries in the library pages in red text indicate books that Chris Garnons-Williams has found to be more useful than the others in that section. |
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Title |
ISBN |
Author |
Pictures of |
Content |
A Camera in the Garden |
0-907621-34-1 |
Heather Angel |
80 garden pictures |
How to take better pictures in the garden |
A Step-by-Step Guide Great Decks & Porches |
0-8069-6643-2 |
Rick Peters |
200 deck illustrations and construction photos |
A complete step-by-step guide to creating decking and porches with photographs and illustrations |
Bead Necklaces |
0-85532-197-0 |
Christian Albrecht |
20 pictures |
Methodology for making threaded necklaces or wired necklaces |
Blizzard's Outdoor Toys |
0-563-21413-9 |
Richard Blizzard |
Plan diagrams and toy pictures |
14 wooden toy plans, cutting list and construction details |
Blizzard's Wonderful Wooden Toys |
0-7195-4024-0 |
Richard Blizzard |
Plan diagrams and toy pictures |
28 wooden toy plans, cutting list and construction details |
Build It With Marshalls |
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Marshalls |
Diagrams of walls/paths/patios |
How to use Marshall's products in the garden for drives, paths, patios and walls. Thin Booklet |
Building Fences + Gates |
1-887374-47-7 |
Richard Freudenberger |
Colour photos |
Step-by-step guide to building fences and gates |
Building Construction Handbook |
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R. Chudley & R. Greeno |
1500 diagrams |
Summarizes concisely, in diagrams and brief explanations, all elements of the building process. Updated to acknowledge current building and construction regulations. |
Candle Making |
0-85532-275-6 |
Anne Collings, David Constable and Randal Marr |
candles |
Basic techniques of candle making |
Candle-Making |
0-8069-5100-X |
Susanne Strose |
50 candle-making illustrations |
How to make candles |
Canework |
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Charles Crampton |
Cane basket photos with cane work illustrations |
Explains the elements of cane basket-making |
Chair and Stool Seating |
85219-564-8 |
Dryad Press |
11 black and white figures |
Instruction booklet for cane seating, rush seating, seagrass and cord seating |
Country Crafts in Yorkshire |
0-85206-612-0 |
Ann Williams |
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Background information to Crafts in Yorkshire such as thatching, rope making, basket making, and working with clay, wood, stone, textiles, lace, metalwork, wax candles, home-made rugs and herbs are given |
Decorative Routing Jigs and Techniques |
0-85442-068-1 |
Jack Cox |
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This includes instructions and drawings to make the many jigs and fixtures designed by the author. There are project ideas with shapes based on the circle and ellipse complete with detailed drawings and techniques to enable all router owners to achieve a very high level of superb work that is simple to achieve. |
Digital Photography in Easy Steps |
1-84078-128-9 |
Nick Vandome |
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From buying a camera to using it as well as editing the digital images and creating a digital library and putting the results on the web, this book explains it all in easy steps. |
Discovering Brasses and Brass Rubbing |
85263-040-9 |
Malcolm Cook |
23 brass illustrations |
A pocket guide to monumental brasses throughout Britain, their history, importance and location, with county lists and hints on brass rubbing |
Dry Stone Walling a Practical Handbook |
0-946752-19-2 |
Alan Brooks Sean Adcock |
Stone walling construction illustrations |
This handbook describes how to construct and repair dry stone walls, stone-faced earth banks, retaining walls and other dry stone features. |
Encyclopedia of Wood Joints |
1-56158-004-X |
Wolfram Graubner |
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450 variations on 66 basic joints in 4 main categories: splicing joints, oblique joints, corner joints and edge joints are detailed |
External Works |
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Landscape Promotions Ltd |
External works |
Details of what companies do in external works for landscaping, building etc |
Fine Furniture Making and Woodworking |
0-7153-8389-2 |
Geoffrey Endacott |
Woodworking illustrations |
Details hand tools required with data about machine tools., cutting joints by hand, materials and upholstery. Simple workshop aids and things to make construction details are provided |
Footpaths a Practical Handbook |
0-9501643-9-9 |
Elizabeth Agate of BTCV |
50 diagrams |
Detailed specifications for conservation volunteers and path workers who are involved in the design, construction, maintenance and repair of footpaths |
Garden DIY Surfaces. Paths Decks Steps Patios Edgings |
1-85391-813-X |
Richard Key |
Construction photos |
Provides a step-by-step grounding in basic landscaping skills with 20 contemporary projects detailed. |
Garden Planning and Construction |
0-7063-6209-8 |
A.K. Davidson and D. Roberts |
Diagrams |
Techniques for constructing - fences, walls, hedges, gates, terraces, drives, paths and steps, and features |
Garden Structures |
0-85533-764-8 |
Richard Wiles |
Diagrams to show how to make something |
How to make - foundations, surfaces, steps, boundaries, changing the level, pergolas and arches, gates, furniture, rock and water features, and for children |
Ground Force 3 |
1-86120-037-4 |
Steve Bradley |
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4 garden makeovers |
Ground Force Practical Garden Projects |
0-563-55147-X |
Tommy Walsh |
150 colour photos |
Describes builder's basics on essential equipment, planning projects and site preparation. Includes projects on fences, paths, patios and deck. |
Ground Force Water Garden Workbook |
0-563-55113-5 |
Charlie Dimmock |
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19 water garden projects |
Hedging a Practical Handbook |
0-946752-17-6 |
Alan Brooks and Elizabeth Agate of BTCV |
50 diagrams |
Detailed specifications for conservation volunteers interested in creating and maintaining hedgerows including hedge laying |
Home Builder |
0-11-701997-6 |
Olivier Evans Palmer and David Alan Rundle |
60 technical diagrams |
Practical guide through planning controls and building controls on - Site and foundations - drainage - walls - floors and stairs - roofs - finishes - piped services -wired services - and fixtures and fittings |
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Site design and content copyright ©December 2006. Page structure amended October 2012. Text altered to Verdana 10 pt Blue December 2023 as is being done to the remainder of this website. Chris Garnons-Williams. DISCLAIMER: Links to external sites are provided as a courtesy to visitors. Ivydene Horticultural Services are not responsible for the content and/or quality of external web sites linked from this site.
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Christopher Garnons-Williams 31 July 2009 Saving the Church’s Common Yew When a tree grows, its outer layer is the tree bark, followed by cambium (this layer transports the sugars and minerals around the tree), then the water transportation layer (transports water from the roots to the leaves to transpire and cool down as well as help the growth of the foliage and the branches or down to the roots for them to store the excess water for a dry day) and finally the dead inner layer we call wood or heartwood (this provides the strength to hold the tree up). If the tree bark and cambium layer is broken apart all the way round a trunk so that the lower liquid in it cannot connect with the liquid in the higher trunk then all the trunk above that will die. Over the years, damage has occurred to the branches coming from this multi-trunked tree. Some of this is where a branch has broken off or broken at the junction with its trunk leaving a jagged edge. When it rains, the water collects in this jagged edge and provides a carrier for rot bacteria to enter and break down the strength of the Heartwood. This has happened down the middle of most of the trunks. David and I are excavating and removing as much of this rot as possible before replacing it with Polycell Expanding Foam (which contains Diphenylmethane-4, 4-diisocyanate) and empty bottles. The empty bottles reduce the number of cans of Polycell Expanding Foam used. This Foam is normally used in the construction industry to fill the space between Windows and Walls and thus prevent draughts round the edge of the windows. In this case, it fills all the space occupied by the removed rot and if any beastie tries eating it, it will be killed by the cyanate in it. This also prevents the bacteria from having access to air/rain; thus hopefully stopping any further internal rot. Unfortunately the Foam is attacked by light, becomes brittle and flakes off, so we are painting it twice with Black Masonry Paint to prevent that. The Masonry Paint is a plastic film which is flexible, so if the tree moves the paint will move with it rather than cracking apart. Some of the branches have fallen away from the trunk and are almost on the ground, but are supported on thin branches from them to the ground (the next paragraph explains how we will provide nutrients for these thin branches in the ground). We will replace the rot at the trunk-branch connection with Foam and apply the Masonry Paint. All the exposed Heartwood on these branches and the rest of the tree will also be liberally painted with the Black Masonry Paint to prevent woodworm or anything else from eating or changing it thus removing its function of holding up the rest of the tree. The colour of the paint is immaterial but black is easy to buy and does not draw attention to the fact that 20% of the tree will have to be painted, unless you wish us to create a painted work of art! The roots of a tree are generally embedded in earth, providing anchorage for the above-ground biomass and absorbing water, air and nutrients from the soil. It should be noted, however, that while ground nutrients are essential to a tree's growth the majority of its biomass comes from carbon dioxide absorbed from the atmosphere. Some of the area round the tree has been used to dump the subsoil from digging graves. Subsoil has no nutrients and so is not a benefit for the yew tree. We can change the subsoil into topsoil by mulching it with organic material which the worms will take down into this subsoil. It is suggested that all the flowers and foliage from the church and churchyard are placed on top of the pile of branches on the ground next to the trunk between 9.00 and 10.00 o’clock when looking at the tree from Station Road. These can then be spread over the area (under the tree not cut by the lawnmowers) by someone else before covering it over immediately with a thin layer of grass mowings to make it look tidy. The grass mowings will turn light brown within a fortnight as they decompose and this mulch will replenish the minerals for the tree. You will notice in a natural wood, that when the leaves and branches fall on the ground, they are not removed but are recycled by the worms and bacteria for the trees to reuse the minerals for future growth. This new mulch will duplicate this natural process in a neater fashion. This repair and restorative work will take some time for David and I to complete.
Research Paper Garnons-Williams 1 was printed in the Sunburst Magazine of St Maragaret, Rainham for the congregation. Further details with photos in the second table on the right. |
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Library Pages
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The Garden Style chosen at the beginning defines what a garden should look like. Following this choice of Garden Style, then:-
Plant Association shows which plant combinations give pleasing flower or foliage colour combinations, then Plant Type gives growing conditions of a family of plants - ie Primulas - with lists of primulas with the same flower colour, foliage colour or height and where is suitable for those plants, followed by Plant Species gives data about a family of plants in a restricted format - ie without lists - as the lowest level of useful information (unless you are prepared to read the text in a whole book each time you want to use this particular species of plant).
Gardening gives general information on how to garden for the whole garden. Garden Cultivation gives specific information on veg, fruit, lawn, pond, etc. Garden Pests details garden pests/diseases and their control.
Practical Projects gives details on how to construct hard landscaping. |
THE 2 EUREKA EFFECT PAGES FOR UNDERSTANDING SOIL AND HOW PLANTS INTERACT WITH IT OUT OF 15,000:-
or
when I do not have my own or ones from mail-order nursery photos , then from March 2016, if you want to start from the uppermost design levels through to your choice of cultivated and wildflower plants to change your Plant Selection Process then use the following galleries:-
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There are other pages on Plants which bloom in each month of the year in this website:-
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Copied from Ivydene Gardens Evergreen Trees Gallery: |
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Saving the Common Yew at St. Margarets Church, Rainham, Kent (written 31 July 2009 for the congregation). Over the years, damage has occurred to the branches coming from this multi-trunked yew tree. Some of this is where a branch has broken off or broken at the junction with its trunk leaving a jagged edge. When it rains, the water collects in this jagged edge and provides a carrier for rot bacteria to enter and break down the strength of the Heartwood. This has happened down the middle of most of the trunks. Mr Noakes (Churchwarden) and I are excavating and removing as much of this rot as possible before replacing it with Polycell Expanding Foam (which contains Diphenylmethane-4, 4-diisocyanate) and empty bottles. The empty bottles reduce the number of cans of Polycell Expanding Foam used. This Foam is normally used in the construction industry to fill the space between Windows and Walls and thus prevent draughts round the edge of the windows. In this case, it fills all the space occupied by the removed rot and if any beastie tries eating it, it will be killed by the cyanate in it. This also prevents the bacteria from having access to air/rain; thus hopefully stopping any further internal rot. Unfortunately the Foam is attacked by light, becomes brittle and flakes off, so we are painting it twice with Black Masonry Paint to prevent that. The Masonry Paint is a plastic film which is flexible, so if the tree moves the paint will move with it rather than cracking apart . |
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The following Diagram is from Wikipedia.org/wiki/wood.jpg:-
When a tree grows it has Bark on the outside, which is the tree's growth area.
Inside that are the xylem sections which are responsible for the transport of water and soluble mineral nutrients from the roots throughout the plant.
Inside that is Heartwood. Heartwood is wood that has become more resistant to decay as a result of deposition of chemical substances (a genetically programmed process). Once heartwood formation is complete, the heartwood is dead. Some uncertainty still exists as to whether heartwood is truly dead, as it can still chemically react to decay organisms, but only once (Shigo 1986, 54).
The Bark and Xylem sections on the outer part of the trunk or branch are quite thin. The Heartwood does the structural support of the entire tree. The Heartwood is dead and therefore if anything attacks it, the tree cannot defend itself from woodworm, wet rot, dry rot, honey fungus etc. Therefore if the Heartwood is exposed it needs to be defended against attack. It used to be done using concrete, but unfortunately concrete shrinks when it cures and therefore it allows for air and water to get at the heartwood again. If the tree bark and cambium layer is broken apart all the way round a trunk so that the lower liquid in it cannot connect with the liquid in the higher trunk, then all the trunk above that will die. Some of the branches have fallen away from the trunk and are almost on the ground, but are supported on thin branches from them to the ground (the next paragraph explains how we will provide nutrients for these thin branches in the ground). We will replace the rot at the trunk-branch connection with Foam and apply the Masonry Paint. All the exposed Heartwood on these branches and the rest of the tree will also be liberally painted with the Black Masonry Paint to prevent woodworm or anything else from eating or changing it thus removing its function of holding up the rest of the tree. The colour of the paint is immaterial but black is easy to buy and does not draw attention to the fact that 20% of the tree will have to be painted, unless you wish us to create a painted work of art! The roots of a tree are generally embedded in earth, providing anchorage for the above-ground biomass and absorbing water, air and nutrients from the soil. It should be noted, however, that while ground nutrients are essential to a tree's growth the majority of its biomass comes from carbon dioxide absorbed from the atmosphere. Some of the area round the tree has been used to dump the subsoil from digging graves. Subsoil has no nutrients and so is not a benefit for the yew tree. We can change the subsoil into topsoil by mulching it with organic material which the worms will take down into this subsoil. It is suggested that all the flowers and foliage from the church and churchyard are placed on top of the pile of branches on the ground next to the trunk between 9.00 and 10.00 o’clock when looking at the tree from Station Road. These can then be spread over the area (under the tree not cut by the lawnmowers) before covering it over with a thin layer of shreddings of tree prunings to make it look tidy. The shreddings will come from professional tree surgeons; and as they decompose this mulch will replenish the minerals for the tree. You will notice in a natural wood, that when the leaves and branches fall on the ground, they are not removed but are recycled by the worms and bacteria for the trees to reuse the minerals for future growth. This new mulch will duplicate this natural process in a neater fashion. This repair and restorative work will take some time for David and I to complete . |
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The Yew Tree of St Margaret’s Church, Rainham, Kent, written by Clifford Hansford. Contributory Member of the Ancient Yew Group www.ancient-yew.org
Observations of the tree’s current restoration/conservation work now nearing completion, 15th February 2010.
The following observations have been recorded in response to a request from Tim Hills (Ancient Yew Group) for information relating to the particular method currently being used to rescue and protect the above yew from further decay. It is hoped that the information will be of use to assist Mr Russell Ball, President of the United Kingdom & Ireland International Society of Arboriculture, in assessing the methods’ acceptability for such a task. Having learned of the tree’s plight from a colleague at the Kent Wildlife Trust, and visited the yew on Sat’ 13th February with Mr Chris Garnons-Williams, who is undertaking the work, my understanding of the situation is as follows:- 1: This yew (recorded in the AYG Gazetteer) is believed by the church to be an ancient yew of approximately 1300 years old. 2: Concern was raised by members of the church regarding the way in which the open centre of the yew retained water. Such water retention was believed to be accelerating the decay already prevalent in this area of the yew. Also, it was noted that other areas of the yew were displaying similar symptoms, particularly where a large branch had partially broken away from the main trunk. 3: Having engaged the services of Chris Garnons-Williams, the proprietor of Ivydene Horticultural Services (www.ivydenegardens.co.uk) a horticulturalist, it was agreed to implement the current method of recovery and conservation as Chris has proved it successful when used on other types of tree. Firstly, all old decayed material is removed. All hollows and cavities are then back-filled with a combination of empty bottles (supplied by the pub next door to the church) and expandable polystyrene foam. The bottles are used to help fill the cavities, thus saving money on the use of foam. Care is taken to ensure the foam forms around the bottles, and mates with all areas of surrounding heartwood. Finally two coats of black masonry, water based paint is applied to both the foam and locally exposed heartwood (Without a paint covering the foam decays if directly exposed to sunlight). 4: To date £700 has been spent on this work, (£200 donated directly by a group of church members and the remainder supplied from church funds). Notes: An assortment of different size bottles, ranging from whiskey and wine (large bottles) to the smaller fruit juice bottles, are used depending on the size of the cavities/gaps to be filled. In hindsight, Chris would recommend the use of high-pressure water to remove the decayed wood rather than screwdrivers and other blade-type implements. The residual water left from the process would help to set the expandable polystyrene foam. Work started in August 2009, with a break during the cold weather, and is still ongoing. A further five to ten days is anticipated for completion. All old, firm wood has been left in situ. Lots of new shoots are now forming. Between Chris and myself we were able to measure the girth of the yew as being 26 feet at its base. It just so happened that on the day Chris and I met for the first time (13 Feb 2010), the church had its annual open day. This gave me an opportunity to learn from church members how very determined they are to preserve this much respected yew.
Western facing aspect.
View of Eastern aspect.
View of Southern aspect
View of Northern aspect which indicates the open centre before preservation action.
View of Northern aspect with Clifford Hansford - after preservation action.
Bottle-filled foam repair.
View showing filled split in a limb growing from a fallen branch.
. Information about this yew tree on 22 March 2020 from rainhamchurch.co.uk website. |
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A minor point to remember is the following penalties from Tree Prervation Orders: A guide to the Law and Good Practice:- "Penalties 9.13 Anyone who cuts down, uproots, tops, lops, wilfully destroys or wilfully damages a tree in a conservation area without giving a section 211 notice (or otherwise in contravention of section 211) is guilty of an offence. The same penalties as those for contravening a TPO apply (see Chapter 10 of this Guide). For example, anyone who cuts down a tree in a conservation area without giving a section 211 notice is liable, if convicted in the Magistrates' Court, to a fine of up to £20,000. Anyone who carries out work in a way that is not likely to destroy the tree is liable to a fine in the Magistrates' Court of up to £2,500. Replacement Of Trees: Enforcement 9.14 If a tree in a conservation area is removed, uprooted or destroyed in contravention of section 211 the landowner is placed under a duty to plant another tree of an appropriate size and species at the same place as soon as he or she reasonably can.116 The same duty applies if a tree is removed because it is dead, dying or dangerous or because it is causing a nuisance.117 The duty attaches to subsequent owners of the land, although the LPA have powers to dispense with the duty.118 The LPA may enforce the duty by serving a tree replacement notice under section 207 of the Act (see Chapter 11 of this Guide).
109 See regulation 10. 110 Anyone proposing to cut down a tree in a conservation area on the grounds that it is dead, dying or has become dangerous is advised to give the LPA five days' notice before carrying out the work, except in an emergency. 111 Diameter as measured at 1.5m above ground level. In the case of multi-stemmed trees, the exemption applies only if the diameters of all the stems are less than 75 millimetres or 100 millimetres, as the case may be." If as the owner you do nothing, there is no problem despite the fact that the above tree in St Margerets would rot internally, fall apart and die off. If you prune one leaf off the tree then you can be fined £2500, if you have not got the neccessary permission from your local authority. I was handed a sheet stating best practice for trees from the the local Tree Officer from the local council on 20 May 2011. Contained in the first section of that sheet of best practice I read that carpet may be laid round the tree to conserve moisture. The yew tree is at the top of a mound of waste subsoil put there from gravedigging. Most of modern carpet backing is plastic and therefore if that was done, the rain would fall on the carpet and run off it beyond the drip line of the tree, thus as the tree roots take up the water then dehydrating the ground occurs. Best practice!!!! Putting the carpet there would also stop the Carbon Cycle and the Nitrogen Cycle of the tree, since it would stop gaseous exchange from the roots in the ground to the air. Due to the expertise of the local authority, people living in the UK would be advised to not allow any of their vegetation to exceed 75mm in diameter at 1.5 metres from the ground, otherwise you are likely to end up in court. As of May 2013, do remember that this wise UK government is overspending by 120,000 million pounds each year for the past 3 years and will need to pay that back. Make sure on your new property that it has no vegetation within its boundary so that you can avoid the likely fines due to allowing plants to grow from your property to the public property outside, if any of those plants are detailed in Schedule 8 of the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981.
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For educational purposes, so that people following best practice can fully understand why the evergreen trees never lose their leaves; here are the written facts from The Book of Nature Myths by Florence Holbrooke:-
'Winter was coming, and the birds had flown south, where the air was warm and they could find berries to eat. One little bird had broken its wing and could not fly with the others. It was alone in the cold world of frost and snow. The forest looked warm, and it made its way to the trees as well as it could, to ask for help. First, it came to a birch-tree. "Beautiful birch-tree," it said, "my wing is broken, and my friends have flown away. May I live among your branches till they come back to me?" "No, indeed," answered the birch-tree, drawing her fair green leaves away. "We of the great forest have our own birds to help. I can do nothing for you." "The birch-tree is not very strong," said the little bird to itself, "and it might be that she could not hold me easily. I will ask the oak." So the bird said, "Great oak-tree, you are so strong, will you not let me live on your boughs till my friends come back in the springtime?" "In the springtime!" cried the oak. "That is a long way off. How do I know what you might do in all that time? Birds are always looking for something to eat, and you might even eat up some of my acorns." "It may be that the willow will be kind to me," thought the bird, and it said, "Gentle willow, my wing is broken, and I could not fly to the south with the other birds. May I live on your branches till the springtime?" The willow did not look gentle then, for she drew herself up proudly and said, "Indeed, I do not know you, and we willows never talk to people whom we do not know. Very likely there are trees somewhere that will take in strange birds. Leave me at once." The poor little bird did not know what to do. Its wing was not yet strong, but it began to fly away as well as it could. Before it had gone far, a voice was heard. "Little bird," it said, "where are you going?" "Indeed, I do not know," answered the bird sadly. "I am very cold." "Come right here, then," said the friendly spruce-tree, for it was her voice that had called. "You shall live on my warmest branch all winter if you choose." "Will you really let me?" asked the little bird eagerly. "Indeed, I will," answered the kind-hearted spruce-tree. "If your friends have flown away, it is time for the trees to help you. Here is the branch where my leaves are thickest and softest." "My branches are not very thick," said the friendly pine-tree, "but I am big and strong, and I can keep the north wind from you and the spruce." "I can help too," said a little juniper-tree. "I can give you berries all winter long, and every bird knows that juniper berries are good." So the spruce gave the lonely little bird a home, the pine kept the cold north wind away from it, and the juniper gave it berries to eat. The other trees looked on and talked together wisely. "I would not have strange birds on my boughs", said the birch. "I shall not give my acorns away for any one," said the oak. "I never have anything to do with strangers," said the willow, and the 3 trees drew their leaves closely about them. In the morning all those shining green leaves lay on the ground, for a cold north wind had come in the night, and every leaf it touched fell from the tree. "May I touch every leaf in the forest?" asked the wind in its frolic. "No," said the frost king. "The trees that have been kind to the little bird with the broken wing may keep their leaves." This is why the leaves of the spruce, the pine, and the juniper are always green.' |
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IMPROVING ST BARTHOLOMEWS CHURCHYARD, CAN YOU HELP? I visited this churchyard on 19 May 2013 and found that the clearing work I had started in July 1999 had been considerably further extended, so now there is a glorious view beyond the church of the surrounding hills and valley. The current very elderly yew trees on the left as one comes into the churchyard have rotten open trunks, which could have the earth removed from inside together with the heartwood rot using trowels and chisels. Then, use a high-pressure water hose to remove yet more of the internal rot, before following what was done to protect the Common Yew at St. Margarets Church, Rainham, Kent as detailed in this Introduction Page . |
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IMPROVING ST BARTHOLOMEWS CHURCHYARD, CAN YOU HELP? Written for the congregation in July 1999 when I was clearing its weeds and brambles as the volunteer. I mulched round the shrubs/trees with the shredded prunings and mown weeds.
The following plants are all rabbit-resistant, suitable for clay soils and for flower arranging. The areas under the yew trees have been used by the gravediggers for the excess soil. The intention is to plant around these trees to make the churchyard more attractive and to provide the church flower arrangers with foliage and flowers throughout the year . |
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Plant |
Attractive to Birds (Bi), Bees and Butterflies (Bb) |
Scented Flowers (Sc), Aromatic Foliage (Ar) |
Uses in flower arranging/ Churchyard |
Ajuga |
Bb |
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Miniature arrangements/ Groundcover. Plant with the irises and geraniums |
Aucuba japonica ‘Rozannie’ and ‘Variegata’ |
Bi |
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All-year-round shiny foliage with berries in autumn and winter/ Groundcover. Plant with orange-cupped daffodils |
Berberis |
Bi, Bb |
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Foliage spring to autumn with flowers in spring and berries in autumn/ Groundcover and autumn foliage |
Buddleia davidii |
Bi, Bb |
Sc |
Fragrant flowers in summer/ |
Choisya ternata ‘Sundance’ |
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Ar |
Fragrant flowers in summer with yellow foliage all year/ Groundcover. |
Cotoneaster adpressus praecox and dammeri |
Bi, Bb |
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/Groundcover. Plant with buddleia and ribes |
Eucalyptus gunnii |
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Ar |
Silver-blue foliage all year/ |
Geranium |
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Ar |
Flowers late spring to autumn / Groundcover |
Hypericum androsaemum and Calycinum |
Bi, Bb |
Ar |
Golden-yellow flowers summer to autumn/ Groundcover |
Iris |
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Winter to early summer flowers/ Groundcover |
Lonicera |
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Sc |
Scented flowers in summer and autumn/ Climber |
Narcissus (Daffodil) |
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Sc |
Spring flowers/ |
Rhododendron |
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Sc, Ar |
Foliage all year with flowers in summer/ Groundcover |
Ribes alpinum ‘Aureum’ |
Bi, Bb |
Sc |
Spring flowers/ |
Rosa |
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Sc |
Scented summer and autumn flowers/ Groundcover bushes |
Rosa |
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Sc |
Scented summer flowers/ Climber |
Solidago ‘Goldenmosa’ |
Bb |
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Summer and autumn long-stemmed flowers/ |
Spiraea japonica |
Bb |
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Spring flowers/ |
Syringa meyeri ‘Palibin’ |
Bb |
Sc |
Fragrant spring flowers/ |
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Ground Cover Herbs from Seed I often get asked what herbs are suited as ground covers. Customers tell me, "I hate cutting grass," or "I like trying something completely different, and I don't mind if my neighbours think I'm crazy to dig up my lawn." Herbal ground covers are very different, but their pleasing leaf textures and often showy masses of colour are becoming more popular in place of grass. Being the tough little critters they are, they need next to no care once established. And if you don't mind foliage and flowers that tickle your ankles and beyond, you can dispense with the weekly trysts with the lawnmower to keep things trim and proper. The biggest problem with herbal lawns is the start up cost. Regrettably, some of the finest low growing herbs are only increased by cuttings or division – the flowerless variety of english chamomile, Treneague, is a notable example. You need the payroll of a CEO to afford enough plants for an instant lawn. Or, you need the patience for many seasons of divide and spread to cover much ground starting with a few plants. Fortunately there are several good choices for herbs you can grow from seed. By far the most popular is wild thyme (Thymus praecox subsp. articus), also known as mother-of-thyme. It grows 4 to 6 inches high, has masses of rose-pink flowers in July, and grows fast enough to crowd out weeds. At 110,000 seeds per ounce, the seeds are very fine, much smaller than grass seeds, so it is a good idea to mix seeds with a filler like sand to avoid dropping 90% of your seed in 10% of the area to be covered. We recommend an ounce of seed per 1000 square feet. In the kitchen wild thyme is not commonly regarded as a culinary herb in North America, but European cooks have long used it in meat dishes just like the more famous English and French thymes (Thymus vulgaris). If nothing else, wild thyme will at least drive you from drink should you dare to consumer alcohol and the leaves at the same time. The combination causes a mother-of-a-hangover! Another popular choice for lawnless lawns is yarrow (Achillea millefolium). While its white, red or pink flowering stalks can reach a foot in height, its dense, many-divided leaves make for a cushion lawn that just invites a picnic, a snooze or other prostrate activities. I have seen yarrow used very successfully in small urban settings. especially under partial shade. If the flowers get too high, one or two runs a season with the lawnmower will keep things in check. Yarrow seeds are small and light, lighter than wild thyme. there are 175,000 seeds per ounce, and an ounce per 2500 square feet is the recommended sowing rate. Yarrow tea is insurance for colds and flus, which is a good thing if you are going to lie around in your lawn a lot. If you don't mind a more rangy and taller cover, Fassen's catnip (Nepeta x faassenii) is a good aromatic choice, growing up to 12 inches in height. Don't worry, cats are not as enamoured by this variety as they are by the much taller growing regular catnip (Nepeta cataria). Sow an ounce per 600 square feet. Roman chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile) is a good choice for warmer, sunny locales. It is a perennial, hardy to zone 6, with finely divided emerald leaves. The small daisy-like flowers are, of course, used to make the popular herbal tea. Be forewarned, there are those who insist that tea made from the Roman (sometimes also known as 'English') is superior to the annual German or Hungarian variety (Matricaria recutita), and there are others who argue just as strenuously the other way. As sides ten to fall along ethnic lines, we prefer to stay out of the debate! In any case, a Roman chamomile lawn is pure enchantment in many landscape settings. Again the seed are very fine – 155,000 per ounce – and one ounce will cover 2000 square feet. As with all seeds this small, it is crucial not to plant too deep; best simply to press the seeds, once broadcast, into the soil using a board or other object with a flat surface. |
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