Ivydene Gardens Ivydene Gardens Azalea, Camellia, Rhododendron Gallery: |
You can select You can select You can select an Azalea, Camellia or Rhododendron by clicking on the Thumbnail to see its Plant Description alongside from the:-
or clicking on the Botanical Name link from one of the:- The mail order nursery link to obtain the plant is in the Comments Row of its Plant Description Page. or you can select an Azalea, Camellia or Rhododendron by clicking on the name of their:-
I have transplanted a 6 feet diameter rhododendron in flower from a garden to its neighbouring garden. I dug the hole first outside the drip-line of the trees alongside, inserted a wooden stake at 45 degrees and watered the hole. Using a spade I cut under the rootball of about 15 inches depth and its width to the drip-line before hauling it onto a tarpaulin. I tied the tarpaulin round the rootball and pulled it round. Having planted it, I tied the main trunk to the stake about 18 inches above ground to stop it rocking in the ground if wind became a problem. I soaked the rootball and covered it with a thin layer of grass mowings to keep the moisture in this mass of fibrous root rootball. The flowering then continued. Once a month, I topped up the thin mulch of grass-mowings and watered it as part of the fortnightly maintenance of my client's garden. |
Note: The preparation of the hole and of its refilling material needs to be done before digging up the plant. There is about 30 minutes before the bare roots of any plant that you are planting or transplanting starts to suffer drought stress. I could not soak the rootball of the rhododendron before I moved it, since even I cannot lift or drag that extra amount of weight. It is worthwhile inserting any plant into a bucket of water for 15 minutes after lifting it and before planting it to ensure that the rootball has water all the way through it. If the plant is in peaty soil or just bought from a nursery with a peat-based compost mixture, then if any of the peat is dry; when water is applied it runs straight off it as if it was a non-stick pan and only soaking it will persuade some of the water to adhere to its peat surface. Having purchased plants from Glendoick Gardens I found them to be excellent:- The nursery of Glendoick Gardens Ltd Glendoick Nursery sells Azaleas, Camellias and Rhododendrons, which can be collected from the Nursery or sent by them to you. Ordering Plants: The nursery sends out plants between 10 October and 1 April ONLY, but orders/reservations may be made at any time. On April 1, all remaining stock is containerized for the Glendoick Garden Centre 0.5 miles away, where you can collect them. Glendoick Gardens: The woodland gardens - next to the Nursery - feature one of the world's finest collections of rhododendrons and azaleas. Glendoick Nursery is the only United Kingdom nursery to still grow most rhododendrons in the open ground because:-
it allows easier packing and posting, together with cheaper postal charges.
Azalea and Rhododendron Cultivation Requirements: The Expert Advice page on the www.glendoick.com website provides a concise summary of the summary of the salient points about how and what Rhododendrons and Azaleas to grow. The many Cox books are probably the best source of in depth information about how to grow Rhododendrons and azaleas. But the fundamentals are pretty straightforward and this is a concise summary of the salient points from Glendoick Nursery:- SITE & SOIL. Soil pH (acidity of soil) is ideally pH 4.5-6. Almost all soil in Scotland is acidic. If it is not, it may have been limed for growing vegetables etc. This is easily remedied by adding a percentage of peat into the soil. One alternative is to use sulphate of ammonia. (you can’t use much of this when plants are in situ as it will burn lvs, so it is best done a few months before planting.) SOIL PREPARATION. Rhododendrons need an open soil mixture. Very heavy (clay) and very fine particles are not suitable. To render soil more open (i.e containing air pockets) organic matter is added: leafmould is the best. Alternatives are compost (own or bought), composted bark, conifer needles etc. There is no point in spending money on rhododendrons and azalea if you are not prepared to do some soil preparation. Improve the soil in an area much bigger than the rootball so there is room to grow. If drainage is good, then soil preparation need be less than 12” (30cm) deep. You do not need peat: it has no structure, no feed and no mulching value. It is useful as an acidifier and for containers. CLAY SOIL. If you have heavy clay soil, the best thing to do is make up a bed on top of the clay soil with compost, bark, peat etc and plant into this. This is what we did in the Glendoick Garden Centre Pagoda garden. DEPTH OF PLANTING. Rhododendrons must not be planted too deep. The rootball should be just below the surface and no more. If you bury the rootball, you will kill the plant. PLANTING Make sure plant is well-watered before planting. For bare rooted stock, October to early April is the planting time. Container stock can be planted at any time but if planted May-August must be well watered in the first growing season. Soil must be firmed up around the roots but do not stamp on the rootball. This only compacts the soil and buries the plant CONTAINERS: Evergreen azaleas, yak hybrids and compact hybrids are best subjects for containers. Tender scented varieties can be grown in conservatory and brought in to house in flower. Use ericaceous compost with added perlite. Rhododendrons do not like central heating and will die if kept as house plants whereas Indica Azaleas are of course perfect. Make sure you have good drainage and do not allow compost to get too dry. Feed and repot when plant becomes rootbound. Do not over pot. SHADE: Rhododendrons will not grow and flower well under trees: the roots will take the moisture and the lack of light will make plants straggly and shy flowering. The worst trees are greedy ones such as Beech and Sycamore. The roots of the tree will reach as far as the dripline (where the branches extend to). So you should be able to look up and see sky. If you can’t, you have a problem. If you live in Scotland, ignore all books/advice which say shade or part shade. Maximum light = maximum number of flowers. Good trees to grow with rhododendrons: Maples, Japanese and others, Cherries, Sorbus, Conifers such as Larch and Spruce, Hawthorn, Eucryphia. Plant dwarf rhododendrons and evergreen azaleas in full sun in Scotland. Deciduous azaleas, larger hybrids and species can take some shade. DEADHEADING & PRUNING. This is largely a cosmetic exercise: only a few varieties produce seed at the expense of growth. Rhododendrons and azaleas to not require any regular pruning. All azaleas and small-leaved rhododendrons can be pruned. This is best done immediately after flowering. You can prune most other rhododendrons back to where there is a circle of leaves (and therefore growth buds). Single growth buds can be pinched out in Spring to encourage bushiness. WHAT CAN I PLANT WITH MY RHODODENDRONS? Anything you like as long as it does not take all the moisture from the roots: so avoid greedy ground covers like heathers, grasses. In the wild rhododendrons grow with other Ericaceous plants such as Enkianthus, Kalmia (USA), Vaccineum, Gaultheria, Pieris, other shrubs such as Berberis, climbers such as Clematis, and perennials such as Aquilegia, Primulas, Meconopsis, Lilies, Rheum, Orchids, etc. For late summer colour, use Hydrangea, Eucryphia, (Sorbus and other berrying plants). WIND & SHELTER Varieties with large leaves, early growth or which are on the tender side for your climate tender require shelter from wind, particularly from south westerlies and north easterlies. If you have no shelter there are several options. 1. Plant a shelter belt of vigorous trees and shrubs. 2. Use rokolene or similar material to help plants establish. 3. Plant hardy wind-tolerant rhododendron varieties on the windward side and less hardy varieties inside these. FEEDING Rhododendrons & azaleas do not need much feeding. If they look healthy and flower well, don’t bother. If you are in a hurry or plants look yellow or sparse, you can feed with almost any fertiliser but beware of high nitrogen mixes as they can burn foliage. A small handful (granular) around the roots of each plant in early May and late June should be enough. Don’t fertilise later as it encourages soft growth at the expense of flower buds. You can also use liquid feed. We don’t use sequestrene: it is not required unless there is iron deficiency. CAN I PROPAGATE MY RHODODENDRONS AND AZALEAS? HARDINESS Measured in our catalogue as H1-5. H1 for frost free/greenhouse, to H5 the hardiest. H5. Hardy hybrids, some species & dwarfs, yak hybrids and most evergreen and deciduous azaleas. H5 areas tend to be well inland and tend to suffer late (and early Autumn) frosts, so choose most varieties which flower in mid May-June to avoid damage to flowers. H4 Glendoick, Perth, Dundee, Coastal Fife, Edinburgh etc, not too far from the sea or with plenty of shelter inland: woodland garden, or on slope with good frost drainage. Lots of hybrids and species are H4. H3. Glendoick in sheltered woodland site. Some protection from trees, or on a south or west wall. May suffer damage in severe winters or bark split from late frosts. Many big leaved species are H3. H2. Indoors on east coast, fine outdoors in Argyll and similar mild climates. Scented Maddenii species for conservatory/greenhouse. H1 Indoors (frost free) only. This is for the Vireyas.
MOST COMMON RHODODENDRON PROBLEMS Why has my rhododendron got yellow leaves?
Why has it got crinkly leaves?
I have spots on the leaves. What causes it?
Why does my rhododendron not flower?
Why has my rhododendron died?
Why have my old rhododendrons reverted to ponticum (wild rhododendron)?
Can I grow rhododendrons without peat?
CHOOSING VARIETIES FOR DIFFERENT PURPOSES EASY DWARFS: To 2ft Curlew, Crane, Dora Amateis, fastigiatum, Intrifast, calostrotum ssp. keleticum, Patty Bee, Ptarmigan, Ramapo, Scarlet Wonder. EASY SEMI-DWARFS & 'YAKS': 3-4ft Bruce Brechtbill, Elisabeth Hobbie, Fantastica, Linda, Percy Wiseman, Praecox, Unique. EARLY-FLOWERING: Nobleanum, dauricum Midwinter, Christmas Cheer. The following have frost-hardy flowers or buds: lapponicum, Ptarmigan, hippophaeoides, Blue Silver, anwheiense. LATE-FLOWERING: hemsleyanum, Polar Bear, Azaleas: occidentale, nakaharae, Lemon Drop, Sparkler, Racoon. BEST FOLIAGE: colour & leaf shape: Graziela, roxieanum, (narrow leaves), Elizabeth Red Foliage (red new growth), lepidostylum, campanulatum ssp. aeruginosum, pronum (blue leaves), Ever Red, Wine & Roses, (red leaves) Bluecalypytus (blue leaves) BEST FOLIAGE: indumentum: bureavii, pachysanthum, rex, Golfer, Ken Janeck, Viking Silver, yakushimanum, falconeri ssp. eximeum. BEST WHITE: decorum, Crane, Alena, Cunningham's White, Loderi (with shelter), Lucy Lou, Dora Amateis, Ptarmigan, Glendoick® Glacier, Panda (azaleas) BEST PINK: Christmas Cheer, dendrocharis, orbiculare, Linda, Pintail, Fantastica, Canzonetta (azalea). BEST YELLOW Dwarf/semi dwarf: Curlew, Chiff Chaff, Patty Bee, Swift, Loch Earn. BEST YELLOW LARGER: campylocarpum, wardii, Goldkrone, Nancy Evans, luteum, Klondyke, Lemon Drop. (dec. azaleas) Note: larger yellow rhododendrons need perfect drainage. Add grit or coarse bark or plant on top of rather than in heavy soil. BEST RED: Dopey, Elisabeth Hobbie, Erato, Grace Seabrook or Taurus, Jean Marie de Montague, Vulcan. Evergreen azaleas: Squirrel, Glendoick Crimson, Glendoick Garnet, Racoon. BEST BLUE-PURPLE dwarf: fastigiatum, calostrotum ssp. keleticum, russatum, augustinii, Night Sky, Penheale Blue. BEST DEEP PURPLE, Azurro, Glendoick TM Velvet. BEST ORANGE: citriniflorum Horaeum orange, cinnabarinum Concatenans, Fabia, September Song, Sonata, calendulaceum, Gibraltar (azaleas). The only true orange is in the azaleas. BEST EXOTIC MULTICOLOUR: Lem’s Cameo, Jingle Bells, Naselle, Many vars of Vireya (indoor) species & hybrids. SCENTED +/- hardy: decorum, fortunei, glanduliferum, hemsleyanum, Loderi, Tinkerbird, Polar Bear. Deciduous azaleas: arborescens, atlanticum, luteum, occidentale, Lemon Drop, Exquisita, Irene Koster, Rosata. Mild gardens or conservatory: edgeworthii, formosum, 'Lady Alice Fitzwilliam'. NEUTRAL OR SLIGHTLY ALKALINE SOIL: decorum, hirsutum, rubiginosum, vernicosum, Cunningham's White. COLD/EXPOSED SITES, Cunninghams's White, Fastuosum Flore Pleno, Gomer Waterer, Azurro, Goldflimmer. Hardy deciduous azaleas such as exbury hybrids. |
In this economic climate of 2006-2013, I can fully understand why mail-order nurseries throughout the world are unwilling to receive free advertising of their plants through the sharing of photos and growing details to the home-owner, but being an idiot in 2023:- I am requesting since January 2007 the donation of the following colour photographs of plants for display in this section:-
Each main photograph will be displayed in a 150 x 150 pixels graphic item. Each thumbnail photograph will be displayed in 50 x 50 pixels graphic item. Freeway allocates 72 pixels per inch. The photographs require to be in JPEG Format and send to Chris Garnons-Williams at 1 Eastmoor Farm Cottages, Moor Street, Rainham, Kent, ME8 8QE England. Please give the Latin name of the plant and your contact details (It would be preferable that it is either your website or email address rather than your phone number). These will then appear with the relevant photograph. If you happen to be a Nursery, then this link could provide a means for people getting that plant; that they require. |
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........ Topic - Plant Photo Galleries
Nursery of Nursery of Damage by Plants in Chilham Village - Pages Pavements of Funchal, Madeira Identity of Plants Ron and Christine Foord
Wild Flower ...... Topic - Flower/Foliage Colour Colour Wheel Galleries or or or ...... Topic - Wildlife on Plant Photo Gallery Egg, Caterpillar, Chrysalis and Butterfly usage of ....... |
WILD FLOWER FAMILY
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WILD FLOWER FAMILY
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WILD FLOWER FAMILY
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WILD FLOWER FAMILY
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Topic |
Topic - Bulb Climber in |
Topic - Both native wildflowers and cultivated plants, with these
You know its Each plant in each WILD FLOWER FAMILY PAGE will have a link to:- |
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All Flowers 53 with |
Plant Colour Wheel Uses Uses of Bedding |
Nursery of Nursery of Damage by Plants in Chilham Village - Pages Pavements of Funchal, Madeira Identity of Plants Ron and Christine Foord - 1036 photos only inserted so far - Garden Flowers - Start Page of each Gallery |
Topic - |
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UKButterflies Larval Foodplants website page lists the larval foodplants used by British butterflies. The name of each foodplant links to a Google search. An indication of whether the foodplant is a primary or secondary food source is also given. Please note that the Butterfly you see for only a short time has grown up on plants as an egg, caterpillar and chrysalis for up to 11 months, before becoming a butterfly. If the plants that they live on during that time are removed, or sprayed with herbicide, then you will not see the butterfly. |
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Plants used by the Butterflies follow the Plants used by the Egg, Caterpillar and Chrysalis as stated in |
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Plant Name |
Butterfly Name |
Egg/ Caterpillar/ Chrysalis/ Butterfly |
Plant Usage |
Plant Usage Months |
Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
10 days in May-June |
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Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
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Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
- |
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Egg, |
1 egg at base of plant. |
Late August-April |
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Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
- |
||
Egg, |
1 egg laid on underside of leaflets or bracts. |
7 days in June. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg laid on underside of leaflets or bracts. |
7 days in June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg laid under the leaf or on top of the flower. |
7 days in August. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
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Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
10 days in May-June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
2 weeks |
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Cabbages - Large White eats all cruciferous plants, such as cabbages, mustard, turnips, radishes, cresses, nasturtiums, wild mignonette and dyer's weed |
Egg,
|
40-100 eggs on both surfaces of leaf. |
May-June and August-Early September. 4.5-17 days. |
|
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of leaf. |
May-June and August. 7 days. |
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Cabbages:- |
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of leaf. |
July or August; hatches in 3 days. |
|
Cabbages:- |
Egg, |
1 egg laid in the tight buds and flowers. |
May-June 7 days. |
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Cherry with |
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
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Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
- |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
10 days in May-June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
6 days in May-June. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
|
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(Common CowWheat, Field CowWheat) |
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 16 days in June. |
|
Currants |
Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
|
|
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 20 days in July. |
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Dog Violet with |
Egg, |
1 egg on oak or pine tree trunk |
15 days in July. |
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Dog Violet with |
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf or stem. |
Hatches after 15 days in May-June. |
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Dog Violet with |
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf or stem. |
Hatches after 10 days in May-June. |
|
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
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Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
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False Brome is a grass (Wood Brome, Wood False-brome and Slender False-brome) |
Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
... |
|
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 20 days in July. |
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Egg, |
1 egg laid on underside of leaflets or bracts. |
7 days in June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf or stem. |
Hatches after 10 days in May-June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
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Egg, |
1 egg laid under the leaf or on top of the flower. |
7 days in August. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. 5 or 6 eggs may be deposited by separate females on one leaf. |
14 days in July-August. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
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Egg, |
1 egg laid in the tight buds and flowers. |
May-June 7 days. |
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Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 20 days in July. |
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Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
|
||
Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
1 then |
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Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
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Egg, |
1 egg at base of plant. |
Late August-April. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
10 days in May-June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
2 weeks |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
6 days in May-June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on underside of leaf. |
May-June and August. 7 days. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. 5 or 6 eggs may be deposited by separate females on one leaf. |
14 days in July-August. |
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Narrow-leaved Plantain (Ribwort Plantain) |
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 16 days in June. |
|
Narrow-leaved Plantain (Ribwort Plantain) |
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 16 days in June. |
|
Nasturtium from Gardens |
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of leaf. |
May-June and August. 7 days. |
|
Egg, |
1 egg on tree trunk |
15 days in July. |
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Mountain pansy, |
Egg, Chrysalis |
1 egg laid under the leaf or on top of the flower. |
7 days in August. 3 weeks in September |
|
Egg, |
1 egg on tree trunk. |
15 days in July. |
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Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 20 days in July. |
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Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
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Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
- |
||
Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
|
||
Egg, |
1 egg laid under the leaf or on top of the flower. |
7 days in August. |
||
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
||
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 16 days in June. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
||
Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
|
||
Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
|
||
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
2 weeks |
||
Trefoils 1, 2, 3 |
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
6 days in May-June. |
|
Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
- |
||
Egg, |
1 egg laid on underside of leaflets or bracts. |
7 days in June. |
||
Violets:- |
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of leaf or on stalk. |
July-August for 17 days. |
|
Violets:- |
Egg, |
1 egg on stem or stalk near plant base. |
July to hatch in 8 months in March. |
|
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
2 weeks. |
||
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. 5 or 6 eggs may be deposited by separate females on one leaf. |
14 days in July-August. |
||
Willow |
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
|
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 20 days in July. |
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Plants used by the Butterflies |
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Plant Name |
Butterfly Name |
Egg/ Caterpillar/ Chrysalis/ Butterfly |
Plant Usage |
Plant Usage Months |
Asters |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
|
|
Runner and Broad Beans in fields and gardens |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-June or July-September. |
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Aubretia in gardens |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June or August till killed by frost and damp in September-November |
|
Butterfly |
Eats sap exuding from trunk. |
April-Mid June and Mid July-Early September for second generation. |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
20 days. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June |
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Holly Blue |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-Mid June and Mid July-Early September for second generation. |
|
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October. |
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Buddleias |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October. |
|
Wood White |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June. |
|
Cabbage and cabbages in fields |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-June or July-September. |
|
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
July-October |
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Adonis Blue |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
1 Month during Mid-May to Mid-June or during August-September |
|
Pale Clouded Yellow |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June or August till killed by frost and damp in September-November |
|
Cow-wheat |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June-July |
|
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-Mid June and Mid July-Early September for second generation. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
3 weeks between May and September |
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Germander Speedwell (Veronica chamaedrys - Birdseye Speedwell) |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June-July |
|
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October. |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
30 days in May-June. |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-September |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
May-June for 18 days. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
1 Month. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October. |
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Painted Lady |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
July-October. |
|
Marigolds in gardens |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June or August till killed by frost and damp in September-November |
|
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
1 Month during Mid-May to Mid-June or during August-September. |
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Michaelmas Daisies |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October |
|
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-June or July-September. |
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Narrow-leaved Plantain (Ribwort Plantain) |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June-July |
|
Nasturtiums in gardens |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-June or July-September |
|
Butterfly |
Eats sap exuding from trunk. |
April-Mid June and Mid July-Early September for second generation. |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
July-October. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
July-May |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
7 weeks in July-August. |
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Comma |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October. |
|
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
3 weeks between May and September |
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Trefoils 1, 2, 3 |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
1 Month during Mid-May to Mid-June or during August-September |
|
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
20 days in August. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June.
|
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June-July |
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Apple/Pear/Cherry/Plum Fruit Tree Blossom in Spring |
Butterfly |
Eats Nectar |
April-May |
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Rotten Fruit |
Butterfly |
Drinks juice |
July-September |
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Tree sap and damaged ripe fruit, which are high in sugar |
Butterfly |
Hibernates inside hollow trees or outhouses until March. Eats sap or fruit juice until April. |
10 months in June-April |
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Wild Flowers |
Large Skipper |
Butterfly |
Eats Nectar |
June-August |
Links to the other Butterflies:- Black Hairstreak |
Topic - Wildlife on Plant Photo Gallery. Some UK native butterflies eat material from UK Native Wildflowers and live on them as eggs, caterpillars (Large Skipper eats False Brome grass - Brachypodium sylvaticum - for 11 months from July to May as a Caterpillar before becoming a Chrysalis within 3 weeks in May) chrysalis or butterflies ALL YEAR ROUND. |
Wild Flower Family Page (the families within "The Pocket Guide to Wild Flowers" by David McClintock & R.S.R. Fitter, Published in 1956 They are not in Common Name alphabetical order and neither are the common names of the plants detailed within each family. The information in the above book is back-referenced to the respective page in "Flora of the British Isles" by A.R. Clapham of University of Sheffield, |
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When you look at the life history graphs of each of the 68 butterflies of Britain, you will see that they use plants throughout all 12 months - the information of what plant is used by the egg, caterpillar, chrysalis or butterfly is also given in the above first column.
THE LIFE AND DEATH OF A FLAILED CORNISH HEDGE - This details that life and death from July 1972 to 2019, with the following result:- End note, June 2008. I hear spring vetch has been officially recorded somewhere in West Cornwall and confirmed as a presence in the county, so perhaps I can be permitted to have seen it pre-1972 in the survey mile. I wonder where they found it? It's gone from hedges where it used to be, along with other scarcities and so-called scarcities that used to flourish in so many hedges unrecorded, before the flail arrived. I have given careful thought to including mention of some of the plants and butterflies. So little seems to be known of the species resident in Cornish hedges pre-flail that I realise some references may invite scepticism. I am a sceptic myself, so sympathise with the reaction; but I have concluded that, with a view to re-establishing vulnerable species, it needs to be known that they can with the right management safely and perpetually thrive in ordinary Cornish hedges. In future this knowledge could solve the increasingly difficult question of sufficient and suitable sites for sustainable wild flower and butterfly conservation - as long as it is a future in which the hedge-flail does not figure.
CHECK-LIST OF TYPES OF CORNISH HEDGE FLORA by Sarah Carter of Cornish Hedges Library:-
Titles of papers available on www.cornishhedges.co.uk:-
THE GUILD OF CORNISH HEDGERS is the non-profit-making organisation founded in 2002 to support the concern among traditional hedgers about poor standards of workmanship in Cornish hedging today. The Guild has raised public awareness of Cornwall's unique heritage of hedges and promoted free access to the Cornish Hedges Library, the only existing source of full and reliable written knowledge on Cornish hedges." |
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Recommended Plants for Wildlife in different situations
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From the Ivydene Gardens Box to Crowberry Wild Flower Families Gallery: |
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The Bumblebee Pages website is divided into five major areas:
FORCED INDOOR BULBS in Window Box Gardens. |
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Thyme |
Thymus praecox, wild thyme Thymus pulegioides Thymus leucotrichus Thymus citriodorus |
Thymes make a very fragrant, easy to care for windowbox, and an excellent choice for windy sites. The flower colour will be pinky/purple, and you can eat the leaves if your air is not too polluted. Try to get one variegated thyme to add a little colour when there are no flowers. |
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Herb |
Sage, mint, chives, thyme, rosemary |
Get the plants from the herb section of the supermarket, so you can eat the leaves. Do not include basil as it need greater fertility than the others. Pot the rosemary up separately if it grows too large. |
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Mints |
Mentha longifolia, horse mint Mentha spicata, spear mint Mentha pulgium, pennyroyal Mentha piperita, peppermint Mentha suaveolens, apple mint |
Mints are fairly fast growers, so you could start this box with seed. They are thugs, though, and will very soon be fighting for space. So you will either have to thin and cut back or else you will end up with one species - the strongest. The very best mint tea I ever had was in Marrakesh. A glass full of fresh mint was placed in front of me, and boiling water was poured into it. Then I was given a cube of sugar to hold between my teeth while I sipped the tea. Plant this box and you can have mint tea for months. |
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Heather |
Too many to list See Heather Shrub gallery |
For year-round colour try to plant varieties that flower at different times of year. Heather requires acid soils, so fertilise with an ericaceous fertilser, and plant in ericaceous compost. Cut back after flowering and remove the cuttings. It is best to buy plants as heather is slow growing. |
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Blue |
Ajuga reptans, bugle Endymion non-scriptus, bluebell Myosotis spp., forget-me-not Pentaglottis sempervirens, alkanet |
This will give you flowers from March till July. The bluebells should be bought as bulbs, as seed will take a few years to flower. The others can be started from seed. |
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Yellow |
Anthyllis vulneraria, kidney vetch Geum urbanum, wood avens Lathryus pratensis, meadow vetchling Linaria vulgaris, toadflax Lotus corniculatus, birdsfoot trefoil Primula vulgaris, primrose Ranunculus acris, meadow buttercup Ranunculus ficaria, lesser celandine |
These will give you flowers from May to October, and if you include the primrose, from February. Try to include a vetch as they can climb or trail so occupy the space that other plants can't. All can be grown from seed. |
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White |
Trifolium repens, white clover Bellis perennis, daisy Digitalis purpurea alba, white foxglove Alyssum maritimum Redsea odorata, mignonette |
All can be grown from seed. The clover and daisy will have to be cut back as they will take over. The clover roots add nitrogen to the soil. The mignonette flower doesn't look very special, but the fragrance is wonderful, and the alyssum smells of honey. |
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Pink |
Lychnis flos-cucli, ragged robin Scabiosa columbaria, small scabious Symphytum officinale, comfrey |
The comfrey will try to take over. Its leaves make an excellent fertiliser, and are very good on the compost heap, though windowbox gardeners rarely have one. |
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Fragrant |
Lonicera spp., honeysuckle Alyssum maritimum Redsea odorata, mignonette Lathyrus odoratus, sweet pea |
The sweet pea will need twine or something to climb up, so is suitable if you have sliding windows or window that open inwards. You will be rewarded by a fragrant curtain every time you open your window. |
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Spring bulbs and late wildflowers |
Galanthus nivalis, snowdrop Narcissus pseudonarcissus, narcissius Crocus purpureus, crocus Cyclamen spp. |
The idea of this box is to maximize your space. The bulbs (cyclamen has a corm) will flower and do their stuff early in the year. After flowering cut the heads off as you don't want them making seed, but leave the leaves as they fatten up the bulbs to store energy for next year. The foliage of the wildflowers will hide the bulb leaves to some extent. Then the wildflowers take over and flower till autumn |
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Aster spp., Michaelmas daisy Linaria vulgaris, toadflax Lonicera spp., honeysuckle Succisa pratensis, devil's bit scabious Mentha pulgium, pennyroyal |
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Bee Garden in Europe or North America |
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Wildlife-friendly Show Gardens
Many of our gardens at Natural Surroundings demonstrate what you can do at home to encourage wildlife in your garden. Follow the links below to explore our show gardens, and when you visit, be sure to pick up a copy of our Wildlife Gardening Trail guide
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From the Ode to the London Plane Tree by Heather Greaves:- They base this conclusion on several factors. For one thing, London planes have a very high leaf area per tree; that is, the London plane gives us a lot more pretty, shady, air-filtering, evaporatively-cooling leaves per single trunk than most other species in the city. In fact, according to the Forest Service, London planes make up just 4% of the city tree population, but represent 14% of the city's total leaf area. (Compare this with the virulently invasive tree of heaven [Ailanthus altissima], which constitutes 9% of the tree population but only about 4% of the total leaf area.) Also, because they tend to become very tall and have large canopies, London planes are our best trees for carbon storage and sequestration. They are holding on to about 185,000 tons of carbon (14% of the total urban tree carbon pool), and each year they sequester another 5,500 or so tons (about 13% of all the carbon sequestered by city trees each year). That makes them both gorgeous and highly beneficial: all in all, good trees to have around." |
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Flack Family Farm:- |
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Edible Plants Club website 'Sort out your soil' - A practical guide to Green Manures, and Frequently Asked Questions from the Receptionist Myrtle of Cotswold Grass Seeds. Saltmarsh Management Manual from the Environment Agency informs you about:-
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Plants for moths (including larval food plants and adult nectar sources) from Gardens for Wildlife - Practical advice on how to attract wildlife to your garden by Martin Walters as an Aura Garden Guide. Published in 2007 - ISBN 978 1905765041:- |
Marjoram - Origanum officinale |
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"In mid summer, our gardens awash with colourful seas of showy blooms, may appear to be a haven for bees. Over the last few decades there has been a garden centre boom in cheap and cheerful bedding plants or cultivars which produce ever more stunning flowers. The trouble is that many of them are of little or no use to honey-bees or bumblebees. Double blooms and many cultivars contain neither pollen nor nectar. Their sole purpose seems to be for us, for that glance across a splash of colour whilst we sip a cool summer drink. Outside our cities and gardens the situation is not much better; there has been a staggering decline in flower-rich hay meadows, wild spaces and wildflower leys. About 97% of our original flower-rich habitats have been lost in the past 60 years. And with these, fast disappearing from our landscapes, are flowering plants which have evolved over millennia alongside bees and in perfect symbiosis with them. These provide bees with the absolute ideal in terms of pollen, nectar and propolis, with different species flowering in succession throughout the year. Add to this, bees have their fair share of parasites and diseases; and for a final blow, a new generation of insecticides originally developed in the 1990’s to protect fruit trees from aphid attack are, ironically, apparently harming bees. There is science-based evidence coming out of France which proves that many pesticides, in sub-lethal doses, are harmful to bees. Bees urgently need our help! Luckily there is much we can do: Think of bees when you garden. This is so easy because many of bees’ favourite plants are also culinary or medicinal herbs, wildflowers or fruits of every kind. Most of them are unadulterated species plants. These don’t just look good, they do us and the bees good too. We can provide many of these kinds of herbaceous perennials, shrubs and trees. The bees’ favourites are our priority Checklist for Plants for Bees There are a just a few keys points to remember when choosing plants for bees: • Approved by bees - Anecdotal evidence has been collected from all over the world, from many people, beekeepers, entomologists, wildlife enthusiasts and gardeners who have observed bees' foraging preferences. We are also planning scientific field studies for 2012 to confirm which garden plants do prove the most popular with our bees. • 100% safe for bees - Plants that are grown without the use of pesticides (especially neonicotinoids such as 'Clothianidin', 'Imidacloprid', 'Thiacloprid' or 'Acetamiprid') or other chemicals that may harm bees. Organic (or Biodynamic) plants are 100% safe for bees. • Species plants - You can't go wrong with natural, 'species' plants that have evolved with bees over millennia. Many artificially bred cultivers or clones, are sterile and often do not produce nectar (for example, the nectaries having been bred into extra petals). Though most fruit cultivars are fine. • Produces plenty of nectar or pollen - Some of the bees' favourite plants produce greater quantities of pollen or nectar than others - that is the kind of information we will try to include in our plant descriptions - especially after the scientific studies being carried out in our bee sancturay have concluded in 2012. • Flowers throughout the times of greatest need - There are certain times when pollen or nectar are needed: Early spring is a time of great need for pollen (which triggers egg-laying by the queen); All season from early spring to late Autumn nectar is needed, though there is a 'crisis period' from the end of June until September (in the South of the UK) when adult bees' numbers are at a peak and their need for nectar is vital. This summer period is one we should concentrate on providing copious amounts of nectar in our gardens." |
Ivydene Gardens Water Fern to Yew Wild Flower Families Gallery: |
Only Wildflowers detailed in the following Wildflower Colour Pages |
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Azalea, Camellia or Rhododendron INDEX link to Plant Description Page |
Flower Colour |
Flower |
Flowering Months |
Height x Spread in inches (cms) |
Foliage |
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Deep Pink |
May, June |
72 x 72 |
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White with Pinkish-tinge |
July, August |
60 x 60 |
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Red |
April |
336 x 300 (840 x 750) |
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Light Lavender |
June |
60 x 72 |
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Red |
April, May |
48 x 48 |
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Yellow |
March, April |
120 x 120 (300 x 300) |
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Creamy-White |
April |
36 x 36 |
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Soft Pink |
May, June |
72 x 72 |
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White |
June |
84 x 84 |
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White |
May, June |
36 x 36 |
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I have transplanted a 6 feet diameter rhododendron in flower from a garden to its neighbouring garden. I dug the hole first outside the drip-line of the trees alongside, inserted a wooden stake at 45 degrees and watered the hole. Using a spade I cut under the rootball of about 15 inches depth and its width to the drip-line before hauling it onto a tarpaulin. I tied the tarpaulin round the rootball and pulled it round. Having planted it, I tied the main trunk to the stake about 18 inches above ground to stop it rocking in the ground if wind became a problem. I soaked the rootball and covered it with a thin layer of grass mowings to keep the moisture in this mass of fibrous root rootball. The flowering then continued. Once a month, I topped up the thin mulch of grass-mowings and watered it as part of the fortnightly maintenance of my client's garden. --------- Note: The preparation of the hole and of its refilling material needs to be done before digging up the plant. There is about 30 minutes before the bare roots of any plant that you are planting or transplanting starts to suffer drought stress. I could not soak the rootball of the rhododendron before I moved it, since even I cannot lift or drag that extra amount of weight. It is worthwhile inserting any plant into a bucket of water for 15 minutes after lifting it and before planting it to ensure that the rootball has water all the way through it. If the plant is in peaty soil or just bought from a nursery with a peat-based compost mixture, then if any of the peat is dry; when water is applied it runs straight off it as if it was a non-stick pan and only soaking it will persuade some of the water to adhere to its peat surface. Having purchased plants from Glendoick Gardens I found them to be excellent:- The nursery of Glendoick Gardens Ltd Glendoick Nursery sells Azaleas, Camellias and Rhododendrons, which can be collected from the Nursery or sent by them to you. Ordering Plants: The nursery sends out plants between 10 October and 1 April ONLY, but orders/reservations may be made at any time. On April 1, all remaining stock is containerized for the Glendoick Garden Centre 0.5 miles away, where you can collect them. Glendoick Gardens: The woodland gardens - next to the Nursery - feature one of the world's finest collections of rhododendrons and azaleas. Glendoick Nursery is the only United Kingdom nursery to still grow most rhododendrons in the open ground because:-
it allows easier packing and posting, together with cheaper postal charges.
Azalea and Rhododendron Cultivation Requirements: The Expert Advice page on the www.glendoick.com website provides a concise summary of the summary of the salient points about how and what Rhododendrons and Azaleas to grow. The many Cox books are probably the best source of in depth information about how to grow Rhododendrons and azaleas. But the fundamentals are pretty straightforward and this is a concise summary of the salient points from Glendoick Nursery:- SITE & SOIL. Soil pH (acidity of soil) is ideally pH 4.5-6. Almost all soil in Scotland is acidic. If it is not, it may have been limed for growing vegetables etc. This is easily remedied by adding a percentage of peat into the soil. One alternative is to use sulphate of ammonia. (you can’t use much of this when plants are in situ as it will burn lvs, so it is best done a few months before planting.) SOIL PREPARATION. Rhododendrons need an open soil mixture. Very heavy (clay) and very fine particles are not suitable. To render soil more open (i.e containing air pockets) organic matter is added: leafmould is the best. Alternatives are compost (own or bought), composted bark, conifer needles etc. There is no point in spending money on rhododendrons and azalea if you are not prepared to do some soil preparation. Improve the soil in an area much bigger than the rootball so there is room to grow. If drainage is good, then soil preparation need be less than 12” (30cm) deep. You do not need peat: it has no structure, no feed and no mulching value. It is useful as an acidifier and for containers. CLAY SOIL. If you have heavy clay soil, the best thing to do is make up a bed on top of the clay soil with compost, bark, peat etc and plant into this. This is what we did in the Glendoick Garden Centre Pagoda garden. DEPTH OF PLANTING. Rhododendrons must not be planted too deep. The rootball should be just below the surface and no more. If you bury the rootball, you will kill the plant. PLANTING Make sure plant is well-watered before planting. For bare rooted stock, October to early April is the planting time. Container stock can be planted at any time but if planted May-August must be well watered in the first growing season. Soil must be firmed up around the roots but do not stamp on the rootball. This only compacts the soil and buries the plant CONTAINERS: Evergreen azaleas, yak hybrids and compact hybrids are best subjects for containers. Tender scented varieties can be grown in conservatory and brought in to house in flower. Use ericaceous compost with added perlite. Rhododendrons do not like central heating and will die if kept as house plants whereas Indica Azaleas are of course perfect. Make sure you have good drainage and do not allow compost to get too dry. Feed and repot when plant becomes rootbound. Do not over pot. SHADE: Rhododendrons will not grow and flower well under trees: the roots will take the moisture and the lack of light will make plants straggly and shy flowering. The worst trees are greedy ones such as Beech and Sycamore. The roots of the tree will reach as far as the dripline (where the branches extend to). So you should be able to look up and see sky. If you can’t, you have a problem. If you live in Scotland, ignore all books/advice which say shade or part shade. Maximum light = maximum number of flowers. Good trees to grow with rhododendrons: Maples, Japanese and others, Cherries, Sorbus, Conifers such as Larch and Spruce, Hawthorn, Eucryphia. Plant dwarf rhododendrons and evergreen azaleas in full sun in Scotland. Deciduous azaleas, larger hybrids and species can take some shade. DEADHEADING & PRUNING. This is largely a cosmetic exercise: only a few varieties produce seed at the expense of growth. Rhododendrons and azaleas to not require any regular pruning. All azaleas and small-leaved rhododendrons can be pruned. This is best done immediately after flowering. You can prune most other rhododendrons back to where there is a circle of leaves (and therefore growth buds). Single growth buds can be pinched out in Spring to encourage bushiness. WHAT CAN I PLANT WITH MY RHODODENDRONS? Anything you like as long as it does not take all the moisture from the roots: so avoid greedy ground covers like heathers, grasses. In the wild rhododendrons grow with other Ericaceous plants such as Enkianthus, Kalmia (USA), Vaccineum, Gaultheria, Pieris, other shrubs such as Berberis, climbers such as Clematis, and perennials such as Aquilegia, Primulas, Meconopsis, Lilies, Rheum, Orchids, etc. For late summer colour, use Hydrangea, Eucryphia, (Sorbus and other berrying plants).
WIND & SHELTER Varieties with large leaves, early growth or which are on the tender side for your climate tender require shelter from wind, particularly from south westerlies and north easterlies. If you have no shelter there are several options. 1. Plant a shelter belt of vigorous trees and shrubs. 2. Use rokolene or similar material to help plants establish. 3. Plant hardy wind-tolerant rhododendron varieties on the windward side and less hardy varieties inside these. FEEDING Rhododendrons & azaleas do not need much feeding. If they look healthy and flower well, don’t bother. If you are in a hurry or plants look yellow or sparse, you can feed with almost any fertiliser but beware of high nitrogen mixes as they can burn foliage. A small handful (granular) around the roots of each plant in early May and late June should be enough. Don’t fertilise later as it encourages soft growth at the expense of flower buds. You can also use liquid feed. We don’t use sequestrene: it is not required unless there is iron deficiency. CAN I PROPAGATE MY RHODODENDRONS AND AZALEAS? HARDINESS Measured in our catalogue as H1-5. H1 for frost free/greenhouse, to H5 the hardiest. H5. Hardy hybrids, some species & dwarfs, yak hybrids and most evergreen and deciduous azaleas. H5 areas tend to be well inland and tend to suffer late (and early Autumn) frosts, so choose most varieties which flower in mid May-June to avoid damage to flowers. H4 Glendoick, Perth, Dundee, Coastal Fife, Edinburgh etc, not too far from the sea or with plenty of shelter inland: woodland garden, or on slope with good frost drainage. Lots of hybrids and species are H4. H3. Glendoick in sheltered woodland site. Some protection from trees, or on a south or west wall. May suffer damage in severe winters or bark split from late frosts. Many big leaved species are H3. H2. Indoors on east coast, fine outdoors in Argyll and similar mild climates. Scented Maddenii species for conservatory/greenhouse. H1 Indoors (frost free) only. This is for the Vireyas.
MOST COMMON RHODODENDRON PROBLEMS Why has my rhododendron got yellow leaves?
Why has it got crinkly leaves?
I have spots on the leaves. What causes it?
Why does my rhododendron not flower?
Why has my rhododendron died?
Why have my old rhododendrons reverted to ponticum (wild rhododendron)?
Can I grow rhododendrons without peat?
CHOOSING VARIETIES FOR DIFFERENT PURPOSES EASY DWARFS: To 2ft Curlew, Crane, Dora Amateis, fastigiatum, Intrifast, calostrotum ssp. keleticum, Patty Bee, Ptarmigan, Ramapo, Scarlet Wonder. EASY SEMI-DWARFS & 'YAKS': 3-4ft Bruce Brechtbill, Elisabeth Hobbie, Fantastica, Linda, Percy Wiseman, Praecox, Unique. EARLY-FLOWERING: Nobleanum, dauricum Midwinter, Christmas Cheer. The following have frost-hardy flowers or buds: lapponicum, Ptarmigan, hippophaeoides, Blue Silver, anwheiense. LATE-FLOWERING: hemsleyanum, Polar Bear, Azaleas: occidentale, nakaharae, Lemon Drop, Sparkler, Racoon. BEST FOLIAGE: colour & leaf shape: Graziela, roxieanum, (narrow leaves), Elizabeth Red Foliage (red new growth), lepidostylum, campanulatum ssp. aeruginosum, pronum (blue leaves), Ever Red, Wine & Roses, (red leaves) Bluecalypytus (blue leaves) BEST FOLIAGE: indumentum: bureavii, pachysanthum, rex, Golfer, Ken Janeck, Viking Silver, yakushimanum, falconeri ssp. eximeum. BEST WHITE: decorum, Crane, Alena, Cunningham's White, Loderi (with shelter), Lucy Lou, Dora Amateis, Ptarmigan, Glendoick® Glacier, Panda (azaleas) BEST PINK: Christmas Cheer, dendrocharis, orbiculare, Linda, Pintail, Fantastica, Canzonetta (azalea). BEST YELLOW Dwarf/semi dwarf: Curlew, Chiff Chaff, Patty Bee, Swift, Loch Earn. BEST YELLOW LARGER: campylocarpum, wardii, Goldkrone, Nancy Evans, luteum, Klondyke, Lemon Drop. (dec. azaleas) Note: larger yellow rhododendrons need perfect drainage. Add grit or coarse bark or plant on top of rather than in heavy soil. BEST RED: Dopey, Elisabeth Hobbie, Erato, Grace Seabrook or Taurus, Jean Marie de Montague, Vulcan. Evergreen azaleas: Squirrel, Glendoick Crimson, Glendoick Garnet, Racoon. BEST BLUE-PURPLE dwarf: fastigiatum, calostrotum ssp. keleticum, russatum, augustinii, Night Sky, Penheale Blue. BEST DEEP PURPLE, Azurro, Glendoick TM Velvet. BEST ORANGE: citriniflorum Horaeum orange, cinnabarinum Concatenans, Fabia, September Song, Sonata, calendulaceum, Gibraltar (azaleas). The only true orange is in the azaleas. BEST EXOTIC MULTICOLOUR: Lem’s Cameo, Jingle Bells, Naselle, Many vars of Vireya (indoor) species & hybrids. SCENTED +/- hardy: decorum, fortunei, glanduliferum, hemsleyanum, Loderi, Tinkerbird, Polar Bear. Deciduous azaleas: arborescens, atlanticum, luteum, occidentale, Lemon Drop, Exquisita, Irene Koster, Rosata. Mild gardens or conservatory: edgeworthii, formosum, 'Lady Alice Fitzwilliam'. NEUTRAL OR SLIGHTLY ALKALINE SOIL: decorum, hirsutum, rubiginosum, vernicosum, Cunningham's White. COLD/EXPOSED SITES, Cunninghams's White, Fastuosum Flore Pleno, Gomer Waterer, Azurro, Goldflimmer. Hardy deciduous azaleas such as exbury hybrids. References:-
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Site design and content copyright ©January 2007. Page structure amended November 2012. Index structure changed and links from thumbnail to another new page changed from adding that new page to changing page to that new page November 2015. Chris Garnons-Williams. DISCLAIMER: Links to external sites are provided as a courtesy to visitors. Ivydene Horticultural Services are not responsible for the content and/or quality of external web sites linked from this site. |
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The following Extra Index of Wildflowers is created in the Borage Wildflower Gallery, to which the Wildflowers found in the above list will have that row entry copied to.
The following Extra Index of Rhododendron, Azalea and Camellia is created in this Gallery, to which the Rhododendron, Azalea and Camellia found in the above list will have that row entry copied to.
Having transferred the Extra Index row entry to the relevant Extra Index row for the same type of plant in a gallery below; then
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AZALEA, CAMELLIA AND RHODODENDRON GALLERY PAGES
Site Map of pages with content (o)
Introduction
Extra Rhododendron, Azalea and Camellia Index is explained in the bottom row of the next table on the right
A, B, C, D, E,
F, G, H, I, J,
K, L, M, N, O,
P, Q, R, S, T,
U, V, W, XYZ
FLOWER COLOUR
(o)2 or More Colours
Orange
(o)Other Colours
(o)Pink
(o)Red
(o)White
(o)Yellow
LEAF COLOUR
Black
Blue
Brown
Bronze
(o)Green
Grey
Purple
Red
Silver
Variegated White
Variegated Yellow
White
Yellow
Autumn Colour
4 Season Colour
FORM
(o)Mat-forming
Prostrate
(o)Mound-forming
(o)Spreading
Clump-forming
(o)Upright
Climbing
Arching
SHAPE
Columnar
Oval
(o)Rounded
Flattened Spherical
Narrow Conical
Broad Conical
Egg-shaped
Broad Ovoid
Narrow Vase-shaped
Fan-shaped
Broad Fan-shaped
Narrow Weeping
Broad Weeping
FRUIT COLOUR
Fruit
BED PICTURES
Garden
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Copied from "The aim of the author has been to give simple and clear instructions - avoiding, as far as possible, technical phraseology - and to supply all necessary information, interspersing here and there such remarks as it is hoped may add to the interest and benefit of perusal. |
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Rules for Fern Culture
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Section 1 - Modes of Growth All ferns consist of 3 distinct parts, viz.
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Roots Asplenium adiantum-nigrum.
By means of numerous fine, hair-like organs with mouths they take up moisture and other elements within their reach which are suitable for them. The crude matter thus taken up passes in the form of sap through the stems and into the foliage, where, being acted upon by the light, it is digested and prepared for assimilation by the plant. |
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Stems
Caudex The foliage of the "Lady Fern" (Athyrium filix-femina) and the "Male Fern" springs from a central crown. This crown is the top of the caudex or stem, which slowly increases in thickness and length year by year. In these Ferns the stems are of upright growth, and occasionally rise above the ground a few inches. Dicksonia externa.
Other species - Lomaria gibba, for instance - attain a height of 24 inches (60 cm) or more, producing at the top a head of spreading fronds. These are miniature tree-ferns, but Dicksonias, Alsophilas, Cyatheas, and other genera, frequently rise to a height of 50 feet = 600 inches = 1500 cms, producing immense heads of fronds, 20-30 feet - 240-360 inches = 600-900 cms across. These are gigantic specimens - veritable Tree-ferns.
Some species have a creeping, sideways habit of growth, and thus slowly change their position; but they still belong to the section whose stems are each styled a caudex. Rhizome The next division may be represented by the "Squirrel's Foot", or "Hare's Foot" Ferns. These belong to the genus Davallia. The "feet", as they are commonly called, are often taken to be roots. This, however, is a mistake; they are not roots, but stems, botanically known as rhizomes. They correspong to the stem of Tree-ferns, so conspicuous in their majestic height. The roots are produced underneath these creeping stems, and the fronds from their sides or tops. Español: Davallia canariensis. Detalle del hábito. Ejemplar cultivado. By these stems the Ferns travel over large spaces, spreading in all directions, and producing large quantities of foliage. Not only do they creep over the level ground, but over stones, up moist rocks, stems and branches of trees; and thus they completely clothe with their beautiful foliage spaces which otherwise be blank and unsightly. The rhizomes of some species of Hymenophyllum are like thin black thread, delicate and easily injured. The rhizomes of others, such as the Gleichenias, are thicker, stronger, and very wiry, spreading in their native homes to such an extent that they cover acres of ground. Others are much thicker and slower in growth, their peculiar appearance giving rise to many common names, as, for instance, the "Bears Paw" fern (Aglaomorpha Meyeniana). Location taken: the New York Botanical Garden. Names: Davallia solidavar. fejeensis (Hook.) Noot., Fiji davallia, Lacy hare's-foo Classification: Plantae > Pteridophyta > Polypodiopsida > Polypodiales > Davalliaceae > Davallia > Davallia solida fejeensis. (showing creeping rhizomes, with a mature frond and several juvenile fronds) The rhizomes of this species are covered thickly by a light brown, woolly-looking substance. When they divide into 3 or 4 side growths, their appearance warrants the application of the common name.
These creeping stems are not all above ground; some species produce them underground, often like dark-coloured twine, as in the Oak Fern (Polypodium dryopteris) and the Beech Fern (Polypodium phegopteris). They work their way along, creeping between stones and other obstructions, and send up their delicate-looking foliage in profusion. These underground stems produce roots below and fronds above, just as those do which are above ground. If the growing points of those stems are broken off or injured, the growth is at once checked, and some kinds are a long time before they make a fresh start. Stolon or sarmentum
The Nephrolepis are conspicuous examples of this mode of growth. From the plant rooted in a particular spot, numbers of this cord-like growth are produced, and spread to an amazing extent. They send out roots like the rhizomes already noticed, and these take hold of any damp surface with which they come in contact. Here and there a bud is formed.
Nephrolepis cordifolia.
This soon develops into a plant, and is prepared to take up an independent existence, while the sarmentum is rambling about seeking for fresh space of which to take possession. |
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Fronds of Ferns
Asplenium bulbiferum in Mount Ngongotaha Scenic Reserve by Rotoroa (New Zealand). By AuthorKrzysztof Ziarnek, Kenraiz via Wikimedia Commons. (showing bulbil on frond) Ferns also breathe through their fronds as trees do through their leaves, so that cutting off fronds injures them, just as human beings are injured when by disease their lungs and digestive organs are unable to perform their functions. From these causes weakness, and eventually death, ensues. In some species the sterile and fertile fronds are entirely distinct from each other, having so different an appearance that they do not appear to belong to the same plant. In the majority the fronds do not differ, the spores being produced on the under surface of the fronds without affecting their form.
Interrupted fern, Osmunda claytoniana, in Lac-Mégantic, Quebec. (Showing fertile and barren fronds) |
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Section 2 - Compost
Loam Leaf Mould Peat Sand Sandstone Charcoal Moss Crocks Potting Sticks
When these are used the potting is better performed, and there is no risk of breaking the roots. A piece of slater's lath will for the largest, a double thick plasterer's lath for the medium, and an ordinary lath for the smallest. They should be smoothed at the top, so that they may be handled with comfort. |
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Section 3 - Compost for various Genera, growing in pots, pans or baskets. |
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The British species of these genera grow in meadows in pure loam, therefore they simply require fibrous loam. When these are being collected from their native homes, they should be taken up with a piece of the grass sod in which they are growing, as they are difficult to establish if their roots are disturbed. The exotic species should be potted in equal parts of loam and peat. Minor point, you are not allowed to take these plants from somewhere that you do not own as stated in Any Person removing any native plant in the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981. |
Botrychium |
Ophioglossum |
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Fibrous loam, leaf mould, and sand in equal quantities. Adiantum Farleyense frequently fails to grow satisfactorily, owing to having peat in its compost. Some of the strong-growing species may do with a little, but all are better without it. |
Adiantum |
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These all do well in loam, leaf mould, peat, and sand in equal parts. |
Adiantopsis |
Anemidictyon |
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Loam and sand equal parts, with half as much more leaf-mould and a little chopped spagnum moss. |
Drynaria |
Polypodium |
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For these, loam, leaf mould, and sand in equal parts, with a double quantity of peat |
Acrophorus |
Lopholepis |
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The same compost as the in the preceding row, but coarser and more lumpy |
Davallia |
Humata |
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Loam, leaf mould, sand, in equal quantities, with half as much old mortar, and for Scolopendriums some oyster shells broken small. One needs to assume that old mortar in 1892 was made from the following:- "Mortar consisting primarily of lime and sand has been used as an integral part of masonry structures for thousands of years. Up until about the mid-19th century, lime or quicklime (sometimes called lump lime) was delivered to construction sites, where it had to be slaked, or combined with water. Mixing with water caused it to boil and resulted in a wet lime putty that was left to mature in a pit or wooden box for several weeks, up to a year. |
Asplenium (British) |
Cystopteris |
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Equal quantities of loam, sand, sand, and leaf mould, with a small quantity of slaty shale or broken sandstone |
Allosorus (Parsley Fern) |
Woodsia |
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Loam, leaf mould, sand, and peat in equal quantities with a little small charcoal and sandstone |
Cheilanthes |
Pellaea |
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Loam, leaf mould, sand and peat in equal quantities, with half as much charcoal and sandstone, all very rough and open in order to allow a free passage of water. A little chopped spagnum moss may also be added. |
Hymenophyllum |
Trichomanes |
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Although manure is not necessary for Ferns, many do not object to it; the strong growing kinds particularly appear to like it. That from an old mushroom bed may be mixed in moderate proportion with the compost. A small quantity of Ichthemic guano, (the Ichthemic Guano Company was wound up on 6 April 1944) or a little powdered cow manure, may be added, but with caution. The foregoing arrangement will be a guide to those anxious to have their plants in the best possible condition. If the arrangement is adhered to, other conditions being also favourable, the results will be entirely satisfactory. |
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Wardian Cases Deutsch: Ward’sche Kästen, verschiedene, teils elegante Ausführungen zur Zimmerkultur tropischer Pflanzen English: Wardian cases |
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Walls. Pockets |
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Rockwork
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Section 4 - Various Habits of Ferns |
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The majority grow on the ground, on raised banks, in gullies, glens, ravines, in forests, woods, and some in open country exposed to the full sun. |
Adiantum dolabriforme |
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Others creep along the ground, over damp rocks, up the stems of trees, round and round the branches, and in every conceivable position of growth. |
Anapeltis |
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Most of the Cheilanthes, Nochochloenas, and Pellaeas grow in crevices of the rocks fully exposed to the weather, unless they happen to be protected by some overhanging projection. |
Cheilanthes
British Aspleniums |
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Lygodiums, Lygodictyon and Salpichloena volubilis are climbers.
If planted at the base of pillars or of wire archways, they may be trained so as to form a beautiful verdant covering; and if in a border, with stakes driven into the ground and wires stretched to the roofs, they may be employed to hide many an unsightly wall. |
Lygodium |
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Filmy Ferns, consisting of the genera Hymenophyllum, Trichomanes, and Todea (excepting one or two of the latter), are a most beautiful and interesting section. |
Hymenophyllum |
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Tree-ferns are very tropical-looking, and so distinct that specimens should be in every collection. The Alsophilas, Cibotiums, Cyatheas, Dicksonias, and some Lomarias are comparitively hardy and easily managed. |
Alsophila |
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The Gold and Silver Ferns are not only interesting but exceedingly beautiful. The bright yellow, silvery white, or cream-coloured, farinose powder more or less coating their fronds above and below, gives them a specially-attractive appearance. |
Adiantum |
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Elk's Horn and Stag's Horn Ferns belong to the genus Platycerium, and are most remarkable of the whole family. They have received their common appelation on account of their striking resemblance to the antlers of the animals whose names they bear. |
Platycerium |
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Flowering Ferns, so called, form a curious but not a large section. That which gives rise to the term is the peculiar arrangement of the spore cases. |
Polystichum anomalum |
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Section 5 Various Modes of Cultivation Ferns having an upright or a slowly-creeping rootstock (stem), or those growing from a cluster of crowns, are suitable for cultivation in pots. As they usually send their roots further down than others, the depth of soil in a pot is acceptable, and necessary to hold the tall-growing species in their places. |
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Those with rhizomes do not usually root so deeply, but as they spread quickly, either under or above ground, they require more surface and less depth. This is obtained by using round pans. |
Adiantum aethiopicum |
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For rockwork, properly constructed, nearly all Ferns are suitable, judgement being exercised in planting the different varieties in the places best adapted for them, considering their habits of growth, size, vigour, and other necessary matters. |
Section 10 gives lists for rockwork |
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For baskets, some kinds are specially fitted. Many with creeping rhizomes, and others which do not creep but have drooping fronds, are suitable. A list appears further on in Section 10, giving the most desirable kinds for this purpose. |
Section 10 gives lists for baskets |
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Blocks of cork suspended from the roof, planted with suitable kinds, are exceedingly ornamental. For various reasons they are superior to baskets, and they look a great deal more natural. Davallias, Anapeltis, and others twine round and round them, just as they grow in their native homes, appearing to find exactly the conditions in which they delight. |
Section 10 gives lists for cork |
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Unsightly walls can be covered with Ferns and made to look very attractive, if properly done and planted with suitable varieties. Walls may also be covered with virgin cork pockets, arranged so that the Ferns planted in them may almost hide the wall. Fern tiles are used for the same purpose. They are made to fasten against the wall, joined end to end, and forming a trough to hold compost. Arranged one height above another they are better for Ferns than cork pockets, because they hold more soil. Ferns do very well in them, but until the plants have made good growth, and to a considerable extent hidden the tiles, the effect is not so pleasing as when cork is used to hide the brickwork. Narrow borders under the edges of stages, with a little rock worked in, and planted with the smaller-growing varieties, will often make a great improvement in the appearance of a house. |
Section 10 gives lists for walls |
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Dead Tree-ferns, with a nice drooping Fern planted on the top, and smaller ones fastened on with a little soil and moss, wrapped round with wire to hold them in position, look very ornamental. |
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Upright cylinders, of various diameters, made of wire netting lined with moss, filled with compost, and secured by a stake through the centre, form a foundation upon which may be planted creeping Davallias, Anapeltis, Lomariopsis, Oleandras, Pleopeltis, Stenochloenas, and similarly habited species. These will soon cover the foundation by their luxuriant foliage. A pillar of this kind may be utilised for the training of Selaginella willdenovii, with its abundant and most beautiful irridescent foliage, and it will constitute a splendid ornament of nature. |
creeping Davallias Selaginella willdenovii |
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Potting
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Baskets |
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Hanging Blocks of Virgin Cork
The piece of cork should be laid ornamentall side down; copper tacks should be driven into it just below the edges, 2 inches (5 cms) apart. One large or several pieces of moss must then be laid on the cork, green side down, a little compost put upon it, and the Ferns put in position. The whole should be pressed firmly down, the moss hanging over the sides must be turned over the soil and worked round the crowns of the plants and under the rhizomes of tose of that mode of growth. A length of thin wire must be fastened to a tack at one side and carried over to a tack on the other side, giving it a turn round that, and so backwards and forwards until the network is sufficient to hold the moss, soil, and Ferns firmly in position.The tacks shoud each be driven up to the head and all will be secure. The hangers must be formed of thicker wire, pushed through the cork, turned up and knocked in to be quite firm, the tops drawn together and united by a hook, as in the case of ordinary wire baskets. All rhizomes should be pegged down on the moss, the plants watered, and the operation will be complete. |
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Ferns in Rockwork |
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Moss-covered Walls |
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Walls covered in Cork |
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Wall Tiles |
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Rockwork (Indoors) |
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Outdoor Ferneries
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Section 5 - Various Modes of Cultivation (continued at the top of the next table) |
Copied From Fern Plants Gallery. The links to the pages within the Fern Plants Gallery have not transferred to this gallery, but you can see from this what you can link to when you go to the Fern Gallery.
Fern Culture with British Ferns and their Allies comprising the Ferns, Club-mosses, Pepperworts and Horsetails by Thomas Moore, F.L.S, F.H.S., Etc. London George Routledge and Sons, Broadway, Ludgate Hill. Hardcover published in 1861 provides details on British Ferns
SPORE COLOUR BED PICTURES
TestPhoto |
TYPE OF FERN TO GROW USE OF FERN |
All Hardy Fern Foundation members have unlimited access to our spore exchange and can choose from a wide variety of ferns. Our resource pages include publications and books about ferns as well as useful websites. See |
TYPE OF FERN TO GROW WITH PHOTOS |
USE OF FERN WITH PHOTOS Accent Grow in Coastal Region Ferns of the Atlantic Fringe with associated plants (1 - Atlantic Cliff-top Grassland, Ledges and Rough Slopes; 2 - Clay Coasts and Dunes of South-East Ireland; 3 - Limestones of Western Atlantic Coasts; 4 - Hebridean Machair; 5 - Horsetail Flushes, Ditches and Stream Margins; 6 - Water Margin Osmunda Habitats; 7 - Western, Low-lying, Wet, Acid Woodlands; 8 - Western, Oak and Oak-Birch Woodlands and Ravines, in the UK and Ireland) House Fern in Trough Garden 1, Grow in Woodlands 1, 2, 3, 4
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Section 5 - Various Modes of Cultivation (continued) |
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Section 6 - Light |
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Means of Shading |
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Section 7 - Temperature |
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Stove Temperature |
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Warm Greenhouse |
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Cool Greenhouse |
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Cold Greenhouse |
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Ventilation |
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Watering
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Cutting Ferns Down |
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Moisture in the Atmosphere |
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See USE OF FERN - in Brackish Water in Coastal District Page for text of Section 8 and Section 9 Section 8 - Ferns in Dwelling-Houses |
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Wardian Cases and Fern Stands |
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Window Boxes |
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Window Cases |
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Section 9 - Propagation |
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Spores |
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Collecting the Spores |
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Sowing the Spores |
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See
If you grow and sell ferns, please tell me so that I can put them on this website and inform others where they can be bought online via mail-order. |
The remarkable sex life of ferns:-
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Section 10 - Selections of Ferns |
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50 choice |
Adiantum aemulum |
Adiantum reginae |
Asplenium formosum |
Davallia retusa |
Nephrolepis davallioides furcans |
A second 50 choice |
Adiantum aneitense |
Adiantum tenerum |
Asplenium obtusilobum |
Elaphoglossum l'herminierii (the Silver Eel Fern) |
Gymnogramma wettenhalliana (Crested Sulphur Fern) |
25 |
Adiantum amabile, sends its roots through the basket all round, young plants are produced on them, and their foliage soon forms a beautiful mass of green. |
Adiantum peruvianum |
Davallia fijiensis |
Goniophlebium subauriculatum, one of the best Basket Ferns in cultivation, produce pendent fronds 72-120 inches (180-300 cms) long |
Nephrolepis davallioides |
25 choice varieties for |
Adiantum ciliatum, produces young plants at the tips of its fronds; these develop, and produce others at their tips, forming a graceful and pretty object |
Davallia dissecta elegans |
Davallia griffithiana |
Lopholepis piloselloides |
Phymatodes vulgaris cristata |
50 |
Acrostichum osmundaceum |
Asplenium australasicum |
Davallia elegans polydactyla |
Hypoderis brownii |
Oleandra articulata |
25 |
Adiantum aemulum |
Adiantum dolabriforme |
Adiantum planicaule |
Davallia fijiensis |
Leucostegia hirsuta |
12 |
Adiantum aemulum |
Adiantum fragrant-issimum |
Adiantum lathomii |
Davallia dissecta |
Davallia fijiensis |
12 |
Selaginella amoena, very pretty, light, and graceful |
Selaginella emilliana, a "Bird's Nest' moss, very pretty |
Selaginella gracilis, very pretty and graceful |
Selaginella haematodes, light green, glossy, crimpy fronds |
Selaginella tassellata, very pretty and distinct |
50 |
Adiantum capillus veneris |
Adiantum pacottii |
Davallia canariensis (the Hare's Foot Fern), |
Lygodium japonicum, a climbing Fern of very free growth |
Pteris cretica nobilis, a handsome, densely crested variety |
Second 50 |
Adiantum cuneatum elegans |
Asplenium bifolium |
Davallia canariensis pulchella |
Lastrea aristata variegata |
Nothocloena sinuata, very pretty, long, narrow drooping fronds, silvery underneath |
12 |
Adiantum assimile, a beautiful variety, its underground rhizomes spread throughout the basket and produce on all sides a mass of lovely pale-green foliage |
Adiantum palmatum, a very beautiul variety, with gracefully-drooping fronds |
Asplenium flaccidum, fronds drooping and graceful |
Blechnum glandulosum |
Davallia mooreana, has large frondsa of fine appearance |
12 |
Adiantum assimile cristatum |
Adiantum fragrant-issimum |
Davallia tyermannii |
Oleandra nodosa |
Platycerium willinckii |
50 |
Adiantum decorum |
Davallia canariensis |
Lastrea patens superba |
Nephrodium molle |
Pteris cretica cristata |
25 |
Adiantum assimile |
Adiantum gracillimum |
Asplenium flaccidum |
Osmunda palustris |
Pteris semipinnata |
25 |
Adiantum capillus veneris |
Adiantum gracillimum |
Davallia decora |
Leucostegia immersa |
Pteris cretica cristata |
12 |
Selaginella caulescens argentea |
Selaginella divaricata |
Selaginella japonica |
Selaginella kraussiana aurea |
Selaginella martensii |
50 |
Adiantum aethiopicum |
Asplenium bulbiferum |
Davallia mariesii |
Lastrea fragrans |
Nothocloena newberryi |
|
Adiantum capillus veneris grande |
Blechnum atherstonii |
Lastrea opaca |
Nothocloena cretacea |
Pteris cretica cristata |
12 |
Adiantum aethiopicum |
Elechum polypodioides |
Osmunda palustris |
Pteris cretica |
Pteris scaberula |
12 |
Adiantum capillus veneris |
Davallia bullata |
Davallia mariesii cristata |
Pellaea ternifolia |
Pteris cretica magnifica |
25 |
Adiantum aethiopicum |
Adiantum mariesii |
Cyrtomum falcatum |
Niphobolus lingua |
Pteris cretica cristata |
12 |
Adiantum capillus veneris |
Adiantum pacottii |
Davallia bullata |
Onychium japonicum |
Pteris cretica cristata |
12 |
Selaginella brownii |
Selaginella involvens |
Selaginella kraussiana |
Selaginella kraussiana variegata |
Selaginella oregana |
50 |
Adiantum affine |
Botrychium virginicum |
Lastrea atrata |
Lygodium palmatum |
Polystichum setosum |
A second 50 |
Adiantum capillus veneris grande |
Davallia novae zealandiae |
Woodwardia radicans crispa |
The following are British: |
The following are still British: |
12 |
Adiantum pedatum |
Osmunda palustris |
Polystichum angulare divisilobum acutum |
Polystichum angulare proliferum |
Woodwardia radicans |
25 |
Adiantum capillus veneris |
Lastrea prolifica |
Polypodium vulgare elegantissimum |
Polystichum angulare bayliae |
Scolopendrium vulgare |
Half-a-dozen (6) |
Adiantum capillus veneris |
Adiantum pedatum |
Asplenium adiantum nigrum |
Onychium japonicum |
Polystichum angulare |
Half-a-dozen (6) |
Selaginella denticulata |
Selaginella japonica |
Selaginella kraussiana |
Selaginella kraussians aurea |
Selaginella kraussiana variegata |
25 In order to have Filmy Ferns in the greatest perfection, they should be in a very close, damp atmosphere; therefore, unless the house is such as to provide this, they should be enclosed in a frame, or placed under glass shades |
Hymenophyllum aeruginosum, a beautiful variety, having a soft, downy appearance |
Hymenophyllum demissum nitens, smaller than the preceeding, compact, and very pretty |
Todea superba, a most beautiful species, the fronds thick, mossy, cut into fine segments |
Trichomanes luschnathianum, resembles the preceeding, but is more cut |
Trichomanes radicans dilatatum |
Half-a-dozen (6) |
Hymenopyllum demissum |
Hymenophyllum demissum nitens |
Hymenophyllum tunbridgense |
Hymenophyllum wilsonii |
Todea pellucida |
12 |
Adiantum cardiochlaena |
Asplenium australasicum |
Davallia fijiensis plumosa |
Gymnogramma chrysophylla |
Nephrolepis davallioides furcans |
A second 12 |
Adiantum flemingii |
Aglaomorpha meyeniana |
Davallia fijiensis |
Nephrolepis davallioides |
Phegopteris effusus |
12 |
Adiantum cuneatum |
Davallia mooreana |
Davallia tyermannii |
Gleichenia rupestris |
Lomaria gibba |
A second 12 |
Adiantum cuneatum grandiceps |
Adiantum veitchii |
Brainea insignis |
Gleichenia dicarpa longipinnata |
Gleichenia semivestita |
12 |
Adiantum pedatum |
Onoclea sensibilis |
Osmunda claytonia |
Polystichum braunii |
Polystichum munitum |
12 |
Adiantum capillus veneris grande |
Asplenium septentrionale |
Asplenium trichomanes cristatum |
Athyrium filix-foemina edwardsii |
Blechnum spicant plumosum(serratum, Airey's No. 1) |
A second 12 |
Asplenium marinum plumosum |
Blechnum spicant manderii |
Polypodium vulgare cornubiense fowlerii |
Polypodium vulgar cristatum |
Scolopendrium vulgare coolingii |
A third 12 |
Adiantum capillus veneris |
Ceterach officinarum crenatum |
Cystopteris montana |
Polypodium vulgare grandiceps |
Lastrea pseudo-mas ramulosissima |
12 |
Athyrium filix-femina acrocladon |
Athyrium filix-femina plumosum elegans |
Lastrea filix-mas fluctuosa |
Lastrea pseudo-mas cristata fimbriata |
Osmunda regalis cristata |
A second 12 |
Athyrium filix-femina corymbiferum |
Athyrium filix-femina setigerum |
Lastrea filix-mas bollandiae |
Lastrea pseudo-mas cristata angustata |
Scolopendrium vulgare crispum |
A third |
Athyrium filix-femina frizellae |
Athyrium filix-femina pritchardii |
Osmunda regalis |
Polystichum angulare cristatum |
Polystichum angulare grandiceps |
Ferns suitable for cultivation in |
Asplenium bifolium |
Lastrea pseudo-mas cristata |
Pteris cretica magnifica |
Pteris ouvrardii |
Scolopendrium vulgare laceratum Where there is no gas the following may be cultivated:- |
Ferns suitable for fern stands As the stands are usually small, it is a good plan to have 1 nice sized Fern in the centre, and either a carpet of Selaginella or a few Dwarf Ferns planted round it |
The following are all small-growing kinds. Those with (c) affixed are suitable for planting in the centre |
Adiantum capillus veneris (c) |
Asplenium obtusilobum |
Asplenium tenullum |
Selaginella amoena |
|
British varieties: |
Asplenium marinum |
Asplenium trichomanes |
Scolopendrium vulgare coolingii |
Scolopendrium vulgare densum |
|
Filmy Ferns: |
Hymenophyllum demissum (c) |
Hymenophyllum tunbridgense |
Trichomanes alabamensis |
Trichomanes radicans (c) |
Ferns suitable for wardian or fern cases |
All those named as suitable for Fern stands, also |
Adiantum affine |
Davallia bullata |
Niphobolus lingua |
Pteris serrulata and its varieties |
|
British varieties: |
Lastrea filix-mas cristata |
Polystichum angulare cristatum |
Scolopendrium vulgare crispum |
Scolopendrium vulgare grandiceps |
|
Filmy Ferns - |
Hymenophyllum aeruginosum |
Hymenophyllum pectinatum |
Trichomanes auriculatum |
Trichomanes maximum umbrosum |
Ferns suitable for window cases The Ferns here named are hardy enough to bear a few degrees of frost without injury, but means should be taken to keep the frost from them, so as to preserve their foliage as perfect as possible |
Adiantum capillus veneris |
Athrium goringianum pictum |
Dictyogramma japonica variegata |
Onoclea sensibilis |
Polystichum braunii |
Ferns for window boxes |
12 dwarf: |
Allosorus crispus |
Asplenium viride |
Cystopteris fragilis |
Polypodium phegopteris |
|
12 medium size: |
Aspidium rigidum argutum |
Lastrea marginale |
Polystichum acrostichoides |
Scolopendrium vulgare crispum |
|
12 large size: |
Athyrium filix femina |
Lastrea dilatata |
Lastrea pseudo-mas cristata |
Polystichum aculeatum |
Tree-ferns for greenhouses |
Large-growing species: |
Alsophila australis |
Cibotium regale |
Cyathea dealbata (the New Zealand Silver Tree-Fern) |
Dicksonia antarctica |
|
Smaller-growing species: |
Blechnum braziliense |
Lomaria attenuata |
Lomaria falcata |
Lomaria gibba tincta |
Hardy ferns for outdoor ferneries Dwarf species and varieties growing from 4 inches to 12 inches (10-30 cms) in height |
North American: |
Allosorus acrostichoides |
Asplenium ebeneum |
Lomaria alpina |
Woodsia ilvensis |
|
British: |
Allosorus crispus (Parsley Fern) |
Athyrium filix femina findlayanum |
Cystopteris fragilis dickiena |
Polypodium vulgare cornubiense fowlerii |
Hardy ferns for outdoor ferneries Medium-sized species and varieties which grow from 12 to 24 inches (30-60 cms) in height |
North American: |
Aspidium cristatum |
Asplenium thelypterioides |
Lastrea marginale |
Polystichum braunii |
|
British: |
Athyrium filix femina capitatum |
Athyrium filix femina smithii |
Lastrea thelypteris (the Marsh Fern) |
Polystichum angulare cristatum |
Hardy ferns for outdoor ferneries Large species and varieties growing 24 inches (60 cms) high and upwards |
North American: |
Aspidium cristatum clintonianum |
Osmunda cinnamomea, produces its fertile fronds in the centre of the plant, entirely distinct from the barren; the spore cases, when matured are cinnamon-coloured and very attractive |
Osmunda claytonia (syn Osmunda interrupta), a very beautiful species |
Osmunda gracilis |
|
British: |
Athyrium filix femina corymbiferum, a handsome crested variety |
Athrium filix femina setigerum, a very beautiful variety, the fronds having a bristly appearance |
Lastrea pseudomas cristata, a handsome variety, finely crested |
Polystichum angulare (the soft Prickly Shield Fern) |
Specially choice species and varieties |
North American: |
Lastrea fragrans, a dwarf, compact, pretty species, well named "The Violet-scented Fern" |
Polystichum acrostichoides grandiceps, a heavily-crested variety, sturdy and compact in habit |
Woodsia glabella |
|
|
British: Asplenium |
adiantum nigrum acutumm, fronds lighter in texture, larger, and more pointed than the species |
nigrum grandiceps, bears a comparitively large crest at the apex of each frond |
Germanicum (syn. alternifolium, the Alternate-leaved Spleenwort) |
septentrionale (the Forked Spleenwort) |
|
Among these Lady Ferns there are some of the most beautiful Ferns in cultivation, and they will bear comparison with any of the Exotics. Their beauty is most ighly developed when cultivated in a cold greenhouse. Athyrium filix femina |
acrocladon, fronds much branched, and densely crested, is of compact habit, and very distinct... |
curtum multifidum, a dwarf variety, narrow fronds, crested, specially neat in appearance... |
gemmatum, very beautiful, fronds 24 inches (60 cms) long, rather narrow, each pinna and the frond at the tip bearing crisp crests... girdlestoneii cristatum, a handsome depauperated crested form, light and graceful... |
plumosum multifidum, exceedingly pretty, the fronds light green, finely divided, plumose, and heavily crested... |
|
Blechnum spicant |
concinnum, very narrow crimpy fronds... |
lineare, fronds long and very narrow, being regularly contracted and neat in appearance...maunderii, a densely ramose, crested variety, grows like a green ball... |
plumosum (syn. Blechnum spicant serratum, Airey's No. 1), a beautiful variety, with deeply-serrated and sometimes tripinnate fronds, which aatain a length of 18 inches (45 cms)... |
trinervo-coronans, a very pretty crested variety, one of the nicest of the genus... |
|
Cystopteris |
alpina (the Alpine Bladder Fern, syn. Cystopteris regia), a handsome species, fronds finely cut... |
|
|
|
|
Lastrea |
dilatata spectabile, a dwarf and very pretty variety, the fronds finely and distinctly cut... |
pseudo-mas cristata fimbriata (syn. Lastrea pseudo-mas plumosissima), a very handsome variety, fimbriated, crested, much lighter in appearance than the old cristata, compact in habit, graceful, and makes a very pretty specimen... |
pseudo-mas ramosissima, a distinct variety, much branched and crested... |
montana coronans, a beautiful variety, fronds narrow, crested, and compact in habit... |
|
Polypodium vulgare |
cambricum prestonii, a beautiful plumose form of the Welsh Polypody... |
grandiceps, a heavily crested and a very handsome variety... |
multifido-cristatum, fronds much branched and crested... |
trichomanoides, fronds dense, cut into numberless fine segments, light green, and very pretty... |
Plant with Photo Index of Ivydene Gardens |
Polystichum angulare |
congestum, dense, overlapping foliage... |
divisilobum plumosum, one of the most beautiful Ferns in cultivation, the fronds long, very broad at the base, pinnules densely overlapping, producing a moss-like appearance, finely cut, and elegant in the extreme... |
foliosa crispum, fronds dense, foliose, and crisp in appearance... |
grandiceps, erect in habit, narrow fronds, bearing a dense crest, very handsome... |
Scolopendrium vulgare |
crispum fimbriatum, a very beautiful variety, with large, deeply-frilled fronds, fimbriated and dense - one of the most lovely of this family... |
crispum robustum, a large and exceedingly handsome form of this pretty variety... |
crispum willsii, a specially pretty broad-fronted variety... |
ramo-cristatum majus (Jones), a densely-branched and crested variety, of fine appearance.... |
|
Of Hardy Ferns, the following are |
Adiantum capillus veneris and its varieties |
Asplenium (in part) |
Ceterach |
Polypodium (nearly all) |
|
Deciduous |
Adiantum pedatum |
Athyrium |
Onoclea |
Polypodium (in part) |
|
The species and varieties enumerated in the preceeding sections are suitable for borders, beds, or rock ferneries, but the varieties should be selected according to the space at disposal for their development. |
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Companion Plants A question I get asked many times is what flowering plants are suited for growing with ferns. There are a few choice plants, with elegant flowers with subtle shades that compliment ferns and grow well in shade. Here is a collection of plants that, in my opinion, go very well with ferns:- and Ferns of the Atlantic Fringe with associated plants (1 - Atlantic Cliff-top Grassland, Ledges and Rough Slopes; 2 - Clay Coasts and Dunes of South-East Ireland; 3 - Limestones of Western Atlantic Coasts; 4 - Hebridean Machair; 5 - Horsetail Flushes, Ditches and Stream Margins; 6 - Water Margin Osmunda Habitats; 7 - Western, Low-lying, Wet, Acid Woodlands; 8 - Western, Oak and Oak-Birch Woodlands and Ravines, in the UK and Ireland) |